Friendly Little Dinner

Entertaining isn't something we do as frequently as we used to, probably because we are still making friends here and also because work and life in general is very busy. I remember a time when we had friends over for dinner at least once a week, sometimes for last-minute dinner parties but other times for overly-detailed celebrations. Now, we probably only host two or three times a year, so when we do, you know I pull out every stop; consider the use of every dish, plate, sherbet or goblet; and pour over every recipe that has been waiting in the wings.

When our friends Gab and Kristina came in from Boston, MA and Dallas, TX for a quick trip to Marfa and Fort Davis, I put a lot of thought into each of the six courses (yes, six), not just what I would serve, but also in what I would serve each culinary creation...food photos courtesy of Gab, one of our guests!

To start:
Mustard-marscarpone spread with toasts, sesame sticks, bread sticks, assorted olives and almonds served in the little black lotus bowls with the black tidbit plates.

First course:
Double-baked three-cheese soufflé served in individual cast iron skillets with a white, Rosenthal under plate.

Salad course:
Butter lettuce with a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on white, Rosenthal salad plates.

Main course:
Homemade bucatini with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese in the oddly shaped pasta bowls.

Intermezzo:
Basil gelato in the chartreuse Russel Wright sherbets.

Dessert:
Easy candy bar tart on the patterned, Rosenthal dessert plates.

If I say so myself, everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time talking and catching up over the course of the meal. The only thing I felt like need some tweaking was the salad dressing, which was a little on the sour side--but the citrus, red pepper and oregano were a great flavor combination and will probably become something else in the kitchen.  The gelato and pomodoro were of my own devising, so there are a couple of recipes for you to try.

Recipe: Basil Gelato

I use corn starch to thicken my gelato, although many recipes use eggs instead. This recipe is the perfect thing to bridge an Italian main course and dessert; its first taste is sweet, which is replaced with a strong herbaceous flavor and ends with the spicy note of basil. Affected? Yes, but effective.

2 cups basil leaves
3 cups milk
3 tbsp corn starch
¾ cup sugar
1 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. salt

Combine basil, 2 1/2 cups milk, sugar, zest and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a two quart saucepan and heat gently until sugar dissolves.  In the meantime, combine the remaining milk with the cornstarch and whisk to form a slurry.  Continuing heating the basil-milk mixture until it begins to steam; stir in the slurry and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened.  Remove from heat and pour through a fine strainer; chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or for best performance with your ice cream maker, overnight.  Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves.

Makes about one quart of gelato.

Recipe: Pasta al Pomodoro

Everyone has a favorite red sauce and it may come from a jar--there are so many good-quality brands out there it is easy to find several you like. Lately, I've been trying to find my own perfect recipe and have tried every trick, idea or suggestion. My version combines slowly cooked onion, garlic, tomato sauce and great canned tomatoes to make a delicious sauce. My secret ingredient? Fennel pollen. My secret tool? Using the immersion blender for a smooth, delicious sauce.

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes or whole tomatoes, use a very good brand
1 8-ounce can of tomato sauce
Pinch of fennel pollen
Kosher salt
3 large fresh basil sprigs

To assemble:
12 ounces bucatini or spaghetti
2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving.  You'll want more!

Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2-4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute more. Increase heat to medium, add tomatoes, sauce and season lightly with kosher salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens a little, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil sprigs, cover and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour.  Remove basil, purée with an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender, until very smooth.

When you're ready to serve, bring water to a boil in a large. Season with salt; add spaghetti or bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally, until not quite tender. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water, then drain pasta.

Bring pasta back to a simmer, add pasta and some of the pasta water; cook, stirring, until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove pan from heat; add butter and cheese; toss until cheese melts. Serve with more cheese, if desired.  It will be desired!

Serves fours.  The sauce can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd or to have some to save for later.  I added chopped green and kalamata olives, four extra cloves of minced garlic and 1 tsp. of red pepper flakes to my leftovers for a spicy, easy 'puttanesca.' 

BBQ Pizza, BBQ Everything

For dinner tonight, I made BBQ "chicken" pizzas and they were pretty delicious. For the "chicken," I rehydrated Butler Soy Curls and seasoned them with thyme, garlic powder, onion powder and a little BBQ sauce. For the sauce, I used my new favorite which is the hickory flavor from Garland Jack's Secret Six made in Garland, TX right outside of Dallas.  It is delicious on everything and I suggest that if you cannot find a bottle in your store, you should order some online. They don't stock the "squealin' hot" flavor here, so I think am going to order some of that.  So, started with the special sauce, added thinly sliced red onion, a mixture of Daiya cheeses, soy curls and them topped them with fresh cilantro when it came out of the oven. Of course, I had to spice mine up with a little Sriracha sauce, but I have to do that regardless of what kind of pizza it is!

Curry Favor

Recipe: Coconut Curried Squash 
Vegetable oil 
1 small onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced 
1 tbsp fresh minced ginger 
2 tsp. curry powder 
1 1/3 cup of coconut milk 
2 small delicate squash, 
1 acorn squash or other medium squash; roasted or cooked and diced into bite-sized pieces 
1 16 oz can of garbanzo beans, drained and well rinsed 
1 cup frozen peas 
Salt and pepper to taste 

In a large saucepan, heat the oil and onion and cook until it turns translucent, about five to seven minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, stirring and cooking until it is fragrant, about one minute. Add the curry powder and cook for one minute longer. Stir in the coconut milk, squash and garbanzo beans and simmer over low until the sauce is thickened. Stir in the peas and continue to cook until they are warmed. Season with salt and pepper; taste and adjust seasoning. Serve warm with rice or other accompaniments. 

Serves four as a side dish; two as a main.

Recipe: Indian BBQ Tofu
Vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
1 1/3 cup ketchup
1/3 cup distilled white vinegar
1/3 cup unsulphured molasses
Pinch of sugar
3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground coriander
2 teaspoons garam masala
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 16 oz blocks of extra firm tofu

In a large saucepan, heat three tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until translucent, 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant. Add the ketchup, vinegar, molasses, sugar, mustard, cinnamon, ground coriander and cayenne and simmer over low heat, stirring, until it's reduced and thickened; about five minutes. Stir in the garam masala and season with salt and black pepper.

Meanwhile, drain and pat dry the tofu. If you are not using an dry, extra firm variety, it may be necessary to press some of the moisture from each block. Slice each block width-wise into twelve pieces.

Place some of the sauce in a medium sized casserole. Dredge each piece of tofu in the sauce and layer into the casserole, topping each layer with a little more sauce. After all of the tofu is in the dish, add some additional sauce to the top and make sure it is all well covered. Cover and chill overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. On a jelly roll pan coated in aluminum foil, layout the tofu. Use a pastry brush or spoon to make sure the pieces have a good coating of the sauce. Bake for twenty minutes, then flip the slices, apply additional sauce and bake for an additional twenty minutes. Serve warm with rice, naan or other Indian dishes and additional sauce reheated and spread over the top. 

Makes four servings.

Loafing

Occasionally, we all get strange, unexplainable cravings and I have had one recently for 'meat' loaf. I know, I know: very retro. And it's evil twin? Lentil loaf? A favorite of aging hippies everywhere. You can buy a good loaf from a couple of the natural food purveyors in the frozen food section, but I wanted to make my own. After doing some research, I combined several different ideas into something delicious, but pretty darn good for you! Tofu, lentils, oats and flax all come together with spices and vegetables to create a savory dinner perfect with roasted veggies...but next time I'm serving it with mashed potatoes!

Recipe: Lentil-Tofu Loaf
For the loaf:
2 tbsp. of olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
14 oz. tofu, drained, patted dry
4 oz. mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. dried thyme
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 carrots, shredded (about 1/2 cup)
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1/2 tsp. liquid smoke
1 16. oz. can lentils (2 cups)
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
2 tbsp ground flax
1/3 cup vegetable broth

For the glaze:
3/4 cup ketchup
2 tsp. cumin
2 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp. brown sugar
1 tbsp. spicy mustard
Dash of Tabasco or other pepper sauce

Preheat oven to 375℉.

Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook until soft and translucent; loosely crumble the tofu into the skillet and sauté until it begins to lightly brown. It will crumble into smaller pieces as you cook it. Add the mushrooms, garlic and spices and continue to cook until the mushrooms have softened and their juices have cooked off. Add the carrots, soy sauce and liquid smoke, then cook for two more minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

For the glaze, combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a small bowl, mix the ground flax seed and broth to make a 'flax egg,' set aside.

In a food processor, process one cup of the lentils and one cup of the oats until coarsely ground. Spoon into a big yellow bowl. Add the cooked onion/mushroom/carrot mixture, remaining lentils and oats. Add the flax egg and 2/3 cup of the glaze. Mix to combine. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.

Line a 9"x5" loaf pan with non-stick foil and spray with non-stick cooking spray. Spoon the lentil mixture into the loaf pan and press into the pan. Spoon about half of the remaining glaze on top of the loaf.

Put the loaf pan in the oven and bake for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, tent with foil and allow to cool for ten minutes.

Pizza

One of my favorite finds at the HEB (here, everything is better) in Midland has been the house brand thin and crispy pizza crusts. Perhaps they have a regular brand at your store, but HEB stocks three different varieties in the larger size, including whole wheat, plus a three pack of individual sized crusts in original and whole wheat. If you love a thin pizza crust--and I do!--then these are for you. Just top with some sauce, your favorite toppings and bake for 10 minutes. Since they are par-baked, that's all it takes. Include some veggies and a green salad on the side, and you have a quick and pretty healthy dinner on the table in just a few minutes.

We had some leftovers seitan, so tonight we experimented with a BBQ chick-un pizza topped with sauce, garlic and thinly sliced onions. It was messy, like BBQ is supposed to be, but it was quite delicious!

White Lady

A couple of weeks ago, I finally had the pleasure of entertaining in the new place. It was relaxed and casual, with dinner served on the terrace on a beautiful West Texas evening. I wanted something simple, so I opted for Italian, utilizing some of my favorite recipes which are easy fare, but not your basic spaghetti with meatless balls.

To start, I served some olives, breadsticks (HEB sells the brand above from Liguria in three different flavors, but you can find them here. Addicted!) and these delicious artichokes which are similar to a stuffed version, but oh so much easier.

Next was one of my favorite salads for fall: Dama Bianca. This salad is very simple, but combines ingredients in a way that makes them special--and delicious! Fennel, celery hearts and fresh mozzarella dressed with lemon juice and olive oil combine to create the "white lady," an Italian classic.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
What makes this simple salad so delicious is the care you take in preparing the ingredients. Unless you're a master chef who can slice celery and fennel like it is butter, it's best to use a mandolin as paper thin slices of both take on a different quality than thicker slices. Likewise, tearing the cheese gives it the perfect, feathery texture to complement the crunch of the vegetables. Traditionally, this salad is made with the female fennel bulbs, which are fat and wide and considered to be sweeter than the male.

2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, but reserve a few of the fronds for garnish
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves reserved and stalks thinly sliced
1 (1/2-pound) ball buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Halve fennel lengthwise and remove the core, then thinly slice crosswise with a mandolin or shaver, then layer in a large salad bowl. Top with celery and mozzarella. Whisk together zest, juice, oil, sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and drizzle over salad. Garnish with the celery leaves and fennel fronds.

For the main course, I served a pasta dressed with a pea and walnut pesto then tossed with some white beans. This sauce is delicious anytime of year made with frozen peas, but is especially good with fresh peas in the spring. My published recipe is vegan, but I used Parmesan cheese since it was dinner for company.

Dessert was my best chocolate gelato recipe with amaretti cookies crumbled over the top. Of course I had a small bowl to nibble on the side. No one wanted coffee, so we sipped small glasses of Weller's bourbon, which has always been a favorite I could never find in Indiana.

It was a fun evening and wonderful to share food with friends.

Peas, Please

Saturday at the farmer's market was all about the green: asparagus, broccoli and shell peas. I'm not sure what I'll do with the asparagus and broccoli, but I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the peas: pasta.

Guilano Hazan's new cookbook, Thirty Minute Pasta: 100 quick and easy recipes, is filled with wonderful recipes and ideas for pasta. Think you've made every pasta imaginable? Think you have already tossed everything you can toss with noodles? Think again.

The idea for the peas with pasta is simplicity embodied: cook an onion; add some peas; puree half of the mixture; add back to the peas with some pasta water; and finally toss with the pasta. I made this recipe during the winter with frozen peas and it was delicious, but making it with fresh peas took the pasta to a whole new level.

Since there is no butter, cheese, citrus or other flavors, the sweet, green essence of the peas really sings a magnificent solo. The only thing you need is salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, which provides the perfect contrast to the peas. A drizzle of olive oil over the finished dish? Delizioso!

Compartmentalized

I was born a snob. I'm not sure how it happened, but even as I child I had a very clear idea of 'how things should be.' Of course, bending the world to your will isn't always easy, especially when you're young. Enter Mam-ma. I have written a lot about the food she prepared and all of the delicious treats I remember, from Hummingbird Cake to store-bought biscuits. But, what I haven't talked about is how she served them.

I'm not trying to degrade the memory of my Mam-ma, or her methods. I'm just trying to be honest: I never liked to eat out of divided plastic trays. For her, it was easier and when you are trying to serve a large number of people a great variety of foods, what could be better than providing them plates with spaces for everything from cutlery to a mug. These could be slipped into the dishwasher and voila. Generally, we didn't even dirty serving dishes unless it was a special Sunday supper, you simply made your way from the salads and cold dishes on the counter to the right, to the stove where the main courses (turkey and ham and noodles and dumplings) and side dishes were kept warm on the left I've already discussed in length the placement of the pies and the dessert.

This was about convenience; she wanted to get the people fed, but she absolutely did not want to be bogged down with piles of dishes to do after. She wanted to enjoy the company of her family and share a meal with them. Period. But trays? It felt so school cafeteria. To me, it lacked specialness: all of the time and effort spent shopping and chopping and cooking deserved a better frame. A nicer frame.

I don't ever remember eating off of the white china decorated with blue roses in the china cabinet. My brother has it now along with her silver plate, but I'm not sure he uses it. (And his wife's grandmother had the same pattern. China kismet!) But, this was what I wanted: actual dishes, not plastic trays or Corelle; nice flatware in a variety of shapes and sizes; cloth napkins folded prettily at each place; covered serving pieces; crystal glasses from tiny to large; cocktails in the library before dinner was served; little salt and pepper shakers; maids from France to serve the hors d'oeuvres; glass coasters; English butlers to announce dinner; wine glasses; champagne flutes; caviar; souffles; and GOLD-PLATED EVERYTHING! Basically, I wanted life to be a dinner party from a 1930s romantic comedy. Even at the age of ten.

Sigh. This isn't the way things were, but it is a lot of the reason behind the way things are.

Enter bento. How can the Japanese make me reconsider the presentation problem of my youth? How can the dissatisfaction with the plastic trays be transferred to the beautiful faux-lacquer black and red boxes used at Japanese restaurants? Compartmentalized dishes filled with rice; a simple salad; tempura vegetable; pickled ginger; sushi and many other savory treats. But why does it hurt my feelings? How can I love it so, but still feel the same about the plastic trays? I know in reality you cannot equate the two, but in my mind there is a Ninja battle between them.

So now, twenty-some-odd-thirty years later, I reverse my position. I say: bring on the divided plastic tray in all of its iterations, from bento box to TV tray to standard cafeteria fare! I declare my Mam-ma the Avatar of Ease and Convenience for her forward-thinking and international lessons on making sure everyone got what they wanted to eat and not spending two hours setting the table and another two hours cleaning up.

Let everyone have a tray filled with delicious food and be happy, from prisoners to princesses!

Recipe: Sloppy Joes

Sometimes you just want something comforting, simple and delicious for dinner and after Ellie or Jimmy had mentioned Sloppy Joes the a couple of weeks ago, I couldn't think of anything better. I used my mom's recipe which she thinks she got from her mother. It's simple and why mess with something that tastes this good? I like to use toasted wheat buns and serve the sandwich open-faced, and I added some sliced radishes for a little spicy crunch and topped with a bit of 'cheese.' Of course, I use burger crumbles instead of ground meat, but otherwise this is just how momma used to make it. Perfection!

Recipe: Barbara's Sloppy Joes
1 medium sized onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 12-oz package burger crumbles
1 tsp salt
1/3 cup vinegar (Use white if you like a pungent vinegar flavor, but you also use an apple cider like I did tonight.)
3 tbsp. brown sugar
1 cup ketchup
1/2 cup water
2 tsp prepared mustard (I used a sweet and spicy)

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add the onion and cook until it begins to soften. Add the burger crumbles and cook for three more minutes until the crumbles begin to thaw. Meanwhile, in a two-cup measuring cup combine the rest of the ingredients and whisk to blend. Add to the onion-crumble mixture and simmer until it thickens, five to ten more minutes.

Serve on toasted buns (if you like) either sandwich style or open-faced. Add radish or cucumber for some crunch, or top with a little cheese. What goes with Sloppy Joes? BBQ beans, (sloppy) broccolini with cheese sauce or maybe even a little potato salad!

If You Gonna Fry

A couple of weeks ago, a friend dropped off a box of treasure: baby artichokes! She wondered what I would do with them, and I wondered too. Honestly, I don't mess with artichokes very often. I think the frozen hearts you can buy have a wonderful green flavor and are perfect for most dishes. I will use the canned ones as well in recipes like my artichoke dip and they work perfectly.

But baby artichokes? Okay, lest you call the People for the Ethical Treatment of Vegetables on me, these are not real baby artichokes that are raised in crates and only fed milk. These are the smaller globes which appear around the base of the plant. In addition to being smaller in size and more delicate, they don't have a choke and are completely edible. What does completely edible mean? Once you get off the tough outer leaves, you can enjoy all of what's left!

So, what to do with the 'baby' artichokes? I did some research and the most common preparation is to fry them. Simple, easy and delicious. So, that's exactly what I did. Since lemon goes so nicely with artichokes, I created a lemon salt to finish them by combining lemon zest and coarse Kosher salt.

But, fry one thing? For me, frying is a big deal. I don't do it very often because, although delicious, cleaning up after frying is a pain. What do you do with oil? How do you keep you entire house from smelling like McDonald's? So, if I am going to fill a pan (my grandmother's cast iron that she used for frying chicken) with oil and go to all of the trouble of frying, I am going to be frying more than one thing.

Arancini! Qu'est-ce que c'est what?

Arancini are one of my favorite things to make and to eat. What are they? Small balls of leftover risotto that can be stuffed with a variety of things (or left plain), rolled in breadcrumbs and fried. Arancini is from the Sicilian dialect and means 'little orange' for the shape and color of the balls after they are fried. People always say, 'risotto has to be eaten hot off of the stove,' or, 'risotto isn't good leftover.' They're crazy and wrong. While I love risotto, I must admit that my primary motivation is to have enough leftovers to make the arancini.

So, I made a big Italian meal for friends:

Fried baby artichokes (recipe from Giada is here)
Arancini
Olives and other pickly things
Grissini

Dama Bianca

Gratineed gnocchi
Roasted winter squash with balsamic reduction

Panna cotta with pomegranate molasses and seeds
(I'm working on perfecting this recipe and will have for you very soon!)

It was very yummy and we had a fun (and fried!) evening!

Recipe: Dama Bianca

For Halloween, we had friends over for an Italian dinner. Yes, there is no connection, but it was a fun evening to entertain and we had a great time. Of course, I love deciding what china to use and put the table together. The idea was kind of fall, but not in an obvious sort of way. And the menu was also inspired by fall, with cheesy, hearty items to match the cooler weather.

To start:
Gnocchi alla Romana (Roman gnocchi is made from semolina, not potatoes, which is cooked in milk then blended with eggs, butter and cheese. After it thickens, it's cut into circles, then baked in the oven with a little more cheese and butter.)
Unstuffed artichokes
Grissini, olives and pickled okra (I have about two cases of pickled okra in the closet, so it is served regardless of the cuisine.)

First course:
Dama Bianca (This white lady is a simple salad made with thinly sliced fennel, celery, fresh mozzarella and a delicious citrus vinaigrette. Recipe below.)

Main course:
Potato gnocchi gratin
Roasted butternut squash with balsamic reduction
Tuscan beans and onions with skillet roasted cherry tomatoes and basil

Dessert:
Chocolate cake with frozen gianduia mousse
Coffee

David sent me four sets of these super cute copper-colored mushroom salt and peppers from West Elm, so I used them for the first time and placed a set between every other place setting.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
This is a great salad for fall, with crunch and a light flavor. Everyone loved it at dinner--perhaps their favorite thing that I served. It's simple and can be done ahead of time.

For the salad:
2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves discarded and stalks thinly sliced
8 ounces fresh mozzarella (optional), roughly torn

For the dressing:
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest (preferably from an unwaxed organic lemon)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
White pepper to taste

Discard the stalks from the fennel and slice the bulb in half. To me, it important to cut the tiny triangular heart at the base of the bulb. Some people don't, but I think it's usually a little tough. and easily removed. Then, use a mandoline and slice into thin pieces. Combine with the celery and mozzarella in a large bowl or platter. You can make the salad to this point and refrigerate for several hours.

For the dressing, whisk together zest, juice, sea salt and white pepper to taste. Slowly add the olive oil and whisk until it's emulsified. Drizzle over salad, toss to combine and serve.

Mangez!

Eating: Sliders

Why should omnivores get to have all of the fun? They are building a White Castle here in Terre Haute, but there is absolutely nothing on the menu pour moi. Burger King has a veggie burger, which I'm grateful for when traveling, but not veggie versions of their new 'burger shots.'

No worries, as I am creative and happy to suit myself. I had some hot dog buns in the larder that were lacking the matching veggie hot dogs, so I cut each put into three mini-hamburger-bun-sized pieces--there was just a little of each leftover. Next, I popped some veggie meatballs in the oven and set out to dress my baby veggie burgers, clockwise from the bowl:

• Refrigerator pickles (onion, cucumber and carrot) that Mitchell made last week--on the plate for a little garnish on the burgers of my choice
• Some baby spring mix to add to the burgers
• Sriracha mayonnaise
• Green chili mayonnaise
• Tomato sauce and mozzarella
• BBQ
• Heinz organic ketchup
• Spicy mustard spread in the middle

Delicious and fun!

Reminisence: Orphaned Fondue Cookbooks

I've talked before about how the Venn Diagram of my two blogs intersects with my cookbook collection. I love vintage ones. Let me rephrase: I am obsessed with vintage cookbooks and its always exciting to find something with fun and original illustrations. I enjoy reading the recipes and food suggestions from the past and occasionally take inspiration from flavor combinations I might see in an old text. But mostly, it is the thrill of the find and a peek into the old kitchens that fuel my pursuit.

There are several sub-groups to the vintage cookbook collection I would note as particularly important:

1. Anything by the trinity of 20th century cookbooks/food writing: James Beard, Julia Child and M.F.K. Fisher.
2. Pamphlet cookbooks from various manufacturers of food or kitchen products
3. Vintage Jell-O cookbooks
   

And a new subgroup is starting to take shape: fondue cookbooks! I had several (I have at least three others, but I think there are more. Part of the collection is currently in storage, so I don't have access to my full library.), but found an amazing one at the thrift store last week. Fabulous Fondues contains illustrations that are bold, graphic and utilize the unusual color combination of hot pink and orange. I love it. Plus, even though its small, this fondue cookbook has lots of wonderful advice and lore. Published in 1970, it's a keeper. It's also apt as I'm planning a dinner party around fondue for next week. A casual Friday night affair, I'll keep you all posted on the full menu and hopefully have some photos of everyone gathered around the pot.

Recipe: Spicy Black Bean Cakes

Beans are a delicious, nutritious and economical staple in diets around the world. When I was growing up, dinner might have been a giant pot of beans with a plate of hot, crispy cornbread topped with butter and molasses. Cucina povera of the American South.

This dish is almost as simple as a pot of beans, but with a spicy Southwestern inspiration. Use your favorite brand of canned beans and think about something wonderful to go on the side. Some cilantro lime rice? An avocado salad? Maybe a slaw with lime juice and cumin? Make it something simple and you'll have a delicious meal probably worthy of guests.

Recipe: Spicy Black Bean Cakes

You might worry that the uncooked sweet potato would add an unfavorable texture to the patties, but as long as it's nicely shredded, it will cook just fine in the allotted time. I adapted this recipe from one from Martha Stewart.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
6 garlic cloves, pressed
1 to 2 jalapeno chiles, finely chopped (ribs and seeds removed for less heat, if desired)
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 cans (15.5 ounces each) black beans, drained and rinsed
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 large sweet potato, peeled and coarsely grated (yielding about 2 cups)
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup plain dried breadcrumbs (I use panko.)
1 lime, quartered plus more for garnish if you want.

Heat broiler. In a small skillet over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon olive oil. Cook the onions until softened, 5 minute. Add garlic, jalapeno, and cumin; cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Transfer to a big yellow bowl.

Add beans to bowl; mash with a fork or a potato masher, leaving about 1/4 of the beans whole. Season generously with salt and pepper. Fold in sweet potato, egg, and breadcrumbs. Divide into 8 balls of equal size; flatten into patties.

Brush a baking sheet with remaining tablespoon oil; place patties on sheet, 1/2 inch apart. Broil 4 inches from heat until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. With a thin cookie-style spatula, carefully turn cakes. Broil until crisp, 2 to 3 minutes more. Squeeze fresh lime over them after you take them from the oven.

Mangez!

Lakehouse Tex-Mexicana

Labor Day at the Monahan Compound in Holland, MI was restful and a lot of fun, as always. I did some reading, card playing, swimming, walking, talking, joking, chatting and, of course, cooking. We ate like kings and queens because there were (too) many delicious things, including:

Sean's Passion Fruit Cocktail

1. Caramel brownies from Peggy
2. Tracy's Asian slaw
3. A wonderful meal of farmer's market treats prepared by Margaret and her crew
4. More M&Ms than anyone should eat
5. Blueberry Buckle
6. John's chipotle almonds
7. Ice cream from moi (I drove this year, so got to pack the ice cream maker. I think everyone was pleased.)
8. Sean's delicious, fruity and potent cocktails
9. Katie's guacamole and margaritas.

Avocado Enchiladas

The list could go on and on and on. John and I prepared a Tex-Mex inspired meal for Sunday evening and it was a lot of fun. We started with chips and salsa along with some little nibblies I constructed from cantaloupe and cucumber. For the main course, we had avocado enchiladas (John will share the recipe later, natch.) and a taco bar with three different fillings. Each was delicious, but after I kept thinking about the very simple mole. I guess John was too, because on the way home at the same moment, we both said, "I wonder if it freezes?" Dessert, well-deserved, was a tres leches birthday cake for Margaret.

Recipe: Spicy Lime Cucumber and Cantaloupe

I had been reading some articles about what people all over the world do with melon, and got the idea of combining my favorite melon with the crisp, green flavor of cucumber. It's simple, light and is the perfect thing to stimulate the palate before a wonderful Latin meal.

• 1 medium-sized cantaloupe
• 2 English cucumbers, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and seeded
• 2 large or 3 medium limes
• kosher or coarse salt
• chili powder
• toothpicks

1. Cut the cantaloupe into thick slices, then into 1 to 1 1/2 inch chunks.
2. Cut the cucumber into large, haphazard slices.
3. Assemble the cantaloupe and cucumber with toothpicks, one piece of each per toothpick.
4. Mix together (enough) salt with (enough) chili powder. I would say, 1 tbsp. of salt and add 1 tsp. of chili powder. Taste and add more chili powder if you like.
5. Cut the limes in half and squeeze juice over fruit. Sprinkle with chili-salt and serve.

Recipe: Black Bean Mole with Seitan

Mole is one of the traditional sauces of Mexico. It has as many interpretations as there are cooks in the kitchen. This one goes together simply, but is still delicious. You could use it over any type of protein. Simply prepare each separately and then combine until heated through. Does it freeze beautifully? I'll let you know. This recipe is from Emeril, believe it or don't.

• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 2 tablespoons pure ground Pasilla chili powder
• 1 cup cooked black beans (rinsed if using canned)
• 1 cup chopped tomatoes
• 1 cup vegetable stock
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed
• 2 teaspoons lime juice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt and pepper

In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, oregano, sesame seeds, and chili powder, stirring constantly for 3 minutes, and then place in a blender. Add the beans, tomatoes, vegetable stock, honey, cilantro, lime, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Puree until smooth. Now transfer the mole to a medium saucepan and heat until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Cook seitan, tofu, or whatever separately, then add to the sauce.

Recipe: Black Bean Salad or Taco Filling

This could be a simple salad or a scrumptious taco filling. The addition of pineapple gives it a new, tropical flavor and sets it apart from your everyday black bean salads.

• 2 cans black beans, drained, about 30 ounces
• 1 (15-ounce) can corn, drained
• 2 Roma tomatoes, diced
• 1/4 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/4 cup diced red onion
• 1/4 cup diced green onions
• 1/4 cup diced pineapple
• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves
• 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
• 4 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• Juice of 1/2 lime
• 3 tablespoons honey
• 1 tablespoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• Pinch ground cumin

Mix all of the ingredients together, then chill to let the flavors meld. Serve with corn tortillas, or just alone with the chips on the side.

Recipe: Potatoes Rajas (aka potatoes with onions and roasted red peppers in a creamy, cheesy sauce)

Did you get that? Potatoes AND onions AND roasted red peppers in a CREAMY, CHEESY SAUCE. Yes, it's as good as it sounds. Perfect in a corn tortilla, you could serve this just as a side if you wanted. Likewise, the rajas would be fine sans potato with a big bag of chips. I am picturing it now: me, sofa, rajas and chips. Perfection.

• 3 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 4 cups creamy rajas, recipe follows

Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until just tender, being careful not to overcook, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain, pat dry and spread in a single layer on a tray to cool. When ready to serve, heat the rajas in a medium saucepan over medium low heat, stirring frequently, just to heat through. Add the potatoes and stir occasionally until heated through. For potato and rajas tacos, toast 24 small Corn Tortillas and keep warm. For each taco, stack 2 tortillas and layer with the potato rajas mixture. Top with Salsa Fresca and an avocado slice and serve.

CREAMY RAJAS

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, halved and cut in 1/4-inch slices, lengthwise
• 1 16 oz jar roasted red pepper, drained and patted dry, sliced into thin slices.
  
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup grated Manchego or Monterey Jack cheese
• 2/3 cup grated Cotija, Romano or Parmesan cheese

In a large skillet heat the oil over medium heat. Saute the onions with the salt and pepper until they begin to wilt and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the julienned red peppers. Pour in the heavy cream, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook 4 minutes or until the cream begins to thicken. Stir in the grated cheeses and remove from the heat. Serve immediately.

Recipe: Tres Leches Cake

This recipe is simple, direct and constructed in a traditional manner: egg yolks and sugar are mixed together, whipped eggs whites and flour are folded in and the baked cake is doused with a mixture of milks. Topped with whipped cream, what could be better? Rosa said it was as good as her grandmother's, which is the ultimate compliment in my book.

• Unsalted butter, room temperature, for baking dish
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
• 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
• 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar

Preheat oven to 325°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs yolks and sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. In another bowl, beat egg whites to soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold whites into yolks until almost combined. Gently fold in flour (do not overmix).

Spread batter in prepared dish. Bake until golden and pulling away from sides of dish, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a small knife, scrape skin from top of cake; discard. Cool cake for 20 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the three milks; pour evenly over cake. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to one day.

To serve, prepare topping: In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream with sugar to soft peaks. Chill cake and cut into squares; serve topped with whipped cream.

Mangez!

Pan-fried Deviled Eggs

Eggs. Good or bad for you? The debate rages on, but like everything else I'm sure the answer is moderation. A recent study said that men shouldn't eat more than seven eggs per week and that those who did would have problems as they got older. But does that count eggs in baked goods? And how does one quantify that amount? One cinnamon roll contains .35 egg?

I admit, I've probably been eating a few more eggs than I normally would. In the first place, eggs are simple to prepare when it's just you, and the possibilities are endless. I've also had a busy couple of weeks and have been stopping for breakfast on the way to work at the aforementioned Boo's. And eating eggs. And egg sandwiches. This morning, it was one egg over medium and a cinnamon roll. (One of the best cinnamon rolls around, I might add.) So I guess I had 1.35 eggs for breakfast? Who knows. The point is, I love eggs. It's probably the real reason I couldn't be a vegan, even though I usually say it's ice cream. In reality, I think I could get by on soy dream, sorbets and the lot. But, I'm not sure I could get by without eggs.

A few posts back, I mentioned Lynn Rosetto Kasper's inspirational chapter on eggs. So inspirational that it jazzed-up my tired pasta. But I kept thinking about what she did to those stuffed eggs. And then I read another article somewhere that mentioned the same idea: pan-fried stuffed eggs.

This isn't so much a recipe, as it is an thought of what to do with eggs. Perhaps you have some leftover deviled eggs from a party? I would find that hard to believe, personally, as I have never been to a party where there were leftover deviled eggs. In fact, at parties we used to have in Kansas, Molly would count the deviled eggs and determine how many would be allotted per person. It's really the only fair thing to do. I digress.

IF you had some leftover deviled eggs, or IF you bought some at the market and wanted to make yourself a quick lunch or dinner, this is a wonderful thing to do with them.

Recipe?: Pan-fried Deviled Eggs
Serves one
1. Take three deviled eggs and scrape the top portion of the filling into a small bowl.
2. Add enough vinegar, a dash of salt, a little garlic and a few twists of the pepper mill: whisk to blend. Slowly whisk in a little olive oil and taste. Adjust flavoring.
3. Meanwhile, heat a small pan with olive oil. When warm, place eggs in the pan cut side down. Fry until warm and slightly brown. Turn and fry opposite side until it begins to brown.
4. Toss enough salad greens with the dressing, top with the eggs and enjoy.

This give you wonderful eggs with a little bit of crust to them, the filling warm and runny. I added some sliced, baked tofu to mine. You could add:
Croutons
Fake bacon bits or slices (I had some bac-un bits I should have used!)
Diced tomato
Avocado
Whatever else you might have that would be good in a salad, but keep it simple.

Mangez!

Quick and Easy Dinner

This recipe was inspired by one from Everyday Food, the miniscule publication from Martha Stewart and PBS television program. I think both the magazine and TV show present simple ways to use whole foods in innovative ways. The portabello mushroom is delicious, easily assembled and simply popped in the oven. I came up with the bean mash after watching Nigella Lawson do something similar to cannellini beans last week. I brightened mine up with an olive oil flavored with lemon that really complements the deep mushroom flavor. The garbanzo beans also add a little protein to the plate. If I were stranded on a dessert island, garbanzo beans would be my food of choice!

Recipe: Portabello Mushrooms with Leeks and Goat Cheese
2 leeks
4 portobello mushroom caps
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon olive oil
3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
Coarse salt and ground pepper
2 cups chopped fresh spinach (about 2 ounces)
8 oz fresh goat cheese

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Trim the dark-green parts from leeks and slice into disks. Often I find leeks which don't have a speck of dirt in them, but its always best to wash them a bit. Place them in a bowl with cold water and move them around with your hand to loosen any dirt. Drain and repeat with fresh water until all of the grit is removed. Lift leek slices out of water, leaving grit behind; drain them thoroughly on paper towels and place in a bowl. Toss the leeks with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Lightly oil a foil-lined baked sheet. Place mushroom caps, gill sides up, on a rimmed baking sheet; drizzle with lemon olive oil and vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Dived the leeks among the caps and bake until caps are just tender, about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the and top with spinach and cheese; season again with salt and pepper. Bake until spinach wilts and cheese starts to brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

Recipe: Lemony Garbanzo Mash
1 16-oz can of garbanzo beans
2 tablespoons lemon olive oil
1 tsp lemon pepper
Salt to taste

Rinse and drain the beans and place them in a microwave-safe dish. Add the olive oil and microwave on high for two minutes until both are warmed. Use a fork or potato masher and smash around until they are coarsely mashed. You may want to add a little water until you reach a desirable, slightly creamy consistency. Add the lemon pepper and salt to taste. Mix and rewarm before serving.

Shopping list:
2 leeks
4 portobello mushroom caps
Olive oil
Lemon olive oil
Rice wine vinegar (I really like the ginger rice vinegar from O.)
2 cups chopped fresh spinach
8 oz fresh goat cheese
1 16-oz can of garbanzo beans
Lemon pepper