Tuna-less salad

It's been more than fifteen years since I've eaten tuna salad, so I make no claims that this tastes 'just like' the original. What I will say is that my vegan version of the classic sandwich spread is delicious whatever you want to call it. I love it on lightly toasted wheat bread, crackers or just with some celery sticks. I've worked out the basic proportion of the tasty spread, so you can make as little or as much as you like--although I never make less than a double batch!

Recipe: Tuna-less Salad
Per 16-ounce can of chickpeas, drained and well rinsed
1 tbsp unseasoned rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp Tamari or soy sauce
2 tbsp Vegenaise
2 tbsp sweet pickle relish
1 1/2 tsp dulse flakes*
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp garlic powder
2 green onions, finely chopped
1/2 tsp spicy or Dijon mustard (optional)
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced (omit, if you intend to serve the salad with celery sticks)

The most important thing here is texture, so it may take you a batch or two to get it to where you like it. The trick is to use a potato masher, which splits the chickpeas into small flakes. You might be tempted to break out the food processor, but I've tried that technique to try and speed up the process and you only end up with pulverized chickpeas.

Place the chickpeas in a big yellow bowl, add the vinegar and Tamari--the liquid helps the mashing process and fully incorporates it with the beans. Mash with the potato masher until there are very few whole beans--although a couple certainly don't hurt. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir until combined. It's delicious right away, but even better after sitting in the fridge overnight, all of the flavored melding together.

*What the heck is dulse? It's a form of seaweed that has been dried and coarsely crumbled into flakes. It has vitamins and minerals in it, plus adds a salty or briny flavor to the salad. You don't have to use it, but it does add flavor and nutrients to the dish.

White Lady

A couple of weeks ago, I finally had the pleasure of entertaining in the new place. It was relaxed and casual, with dinner served on the terrace on a beautiful West Texas evening. I wanted something simple, so I opted for Italian, utilizing some of my favorite recipes which are easy fare, but not your basic spaghetti with meatless balls.

To start, I served some olives, breadsticks (HEB sells the brand above from Liguria in three different flavors, but you can find them here. Addicted!) and these delicious artichokes which are similar to a stuffed version, but oh so much easier.

Next was one of my favorite salads for fall: Dama Bianca. This salad is very simple, but combines ingredients in a way that makes them special--and delicious! Fennel, celery hearts and fresh mozzarella dressed with lemon juice and olive oil combine to create the "white lady," an Italian classic.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
What makes this simple salad so delicious is the care you take in preparing the ingredients. Unless you're a master chef who can slice celery and fennel like it is butter, it's best to use a mandolin as paper thin slices of both take on a different quality than thicker slices. Likewise, tearing the cheese gives it the perfect, feathery texture to complement the crunch of the vegetables. Traditionally, this salad is made with the female fennel bulbs, which are fat and wide and considered to be sweeter than the male.

2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, but reserve a few of the fronds for garnish
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves reserved and stalks thinly sliced
1 (1/2-pound) ball buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Halve fennel lengthwise and remove the core, then thinly slice crosswise with a mandolin or shaver, then layer in a large salad bowl. Top with celery and mozzarella. Whisk together zest, juice, oil, sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and drizzle over salad. Garnish with the celery leaves and fennel fronds.

For the main course, I served a pasta dressed with a pea and walnut pesto then tossed with some white beans. This sauce is delicious anytime of year made with frozen peas, but is especially good with fresh peas in the spring. My published recipe is vegan, but I used Parmesan cheese since it was dinner for company.

Dessert was my best chocolate gelato recipe with amaretti cookies crumbled over the top. Of course I had a small bowl to nibble on the side. No one wanted coffee, so we sipped small glasses of Weller's bourbon, which has always been a favorite I could never find in Indiana.

It was a fun evening and wonderful to share food with friends.

First Market Trip

Last Saturday we went to Bloomington, IN with friends to go to the farmer's market, hit Farm Bloomington for brunch and of course pop into Target. There were so many delicious things at the market! I bought baby squash, baby sweet potatoes, salad greens, asparagus, tomatoes and cherries.

I made a delicious market salad with some of the produce...

...and used some of leftovers for a 'hippie' lunch with tofu and quinoa.

So very glad summer (and cherry season!) is here. And also happy to have friends who like to shop, eat and cook.

Recipe: Crispy Soft Cevice Tacos

This is the perfect combination of citrus, spiciness and crunch...a great taco for spring and summer!

I devised the original recipe a few years ago after reading an article by Calvin Trillin's on ceviche. I've never had a ceviche made with fish (or anything else, for that matter!) in my life, but the combination of flavors and the idea of something crisp and fresh was appealing. Why not substitute tofu? A firm tofu cubed could pass in a ceviche for small pieces of fish, right? It's turned out beautifully and I loved it. So, why not make a taco out of it?

It is taco nirvana, that is all I have to say. Perfection.

Recipe: Crispy Soft Ceviche Tacos

Following a couple of easy steps with the tofu will go a long way to create amazing flavor and texture in your ceviche--this means you have to start thinking about the ceviche a couple of days before you want to eat it. First, freeze the tofu--at least overnight. This improves the texture and allows you to get more moisture out of it. After it's thawed, press as much water out as possible, dice and proceed with the recipe. Once assembled, your really want to let the ceviche sit overnight as the tofu will absorb the flavors and be 'cooked' by the citrus. I know, it sounds weird, but the texture does change. A great addition: thinly sliced kumquats if you can find them. The salad that follows is a great accompaniment to the tacos.

1 lb. firm tofu, pressed and cut into 3/8-inch cubes
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 small jalapeno chilled, cored and seeded, finely diced
1 medium red onion in small, finely diced
1 medium tomato, seeded and diced
1/2 cup ketchup
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
4 tbsp. fresh lime juice
1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
large pinch of cumin
small pinch ground cinnamon
small pinch of ground cloves
dash of Tabasco
2 tbsp. virgin olive oil

1/2 cup cilantro leaves
Crispy Taco Shells
Soft, flour tortillas

Place the tofu in a large bowl, add onion, tomato and jalapeno. In a smaller bowl, combine ketchup and through the olive oil. Whisk together, then pour over tofu mixture, folding gently until mixed well. Add salt to taste, then chill for several hours, or overnight if possible.

(The ceviche is also great served in little spoons, endive spears, or small glasses with a celery garnish.)

When you're ready, heat the oven and prepare the crispy tacos as directed by the package. Warm the flour tortillas in a dry skillet. Assemble the tacos by placing a crispy taco shell in a soft flour tortilla, filling with the ceviche and topping with freshly chopped cilantro.

Makes eight to ten tacos.

Recipe: Creamy, cumin-scented Salad Dressing with Chili Pepitas

I love this creamy dressing--the cumin adds a little bite, to contrast the creaminess. The pepitas add spiciness and a delicious crunch.

For the Dressing
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp. light vinegar (a Champagne vinegar would be good)
1 tbsp. olive oil
Freshly ground pepper

In your salad bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise through vinegar. Slowly add the olive oil and keep whisking. Add freshly ground black pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.

For the Pepitas
1/4 cup pumpkin seeds
1/4 tsp. chili powder
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
Spray olive oil

Heat a small, non-stick skillet to high heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and spray generously with the oil. Sprinkle with chili powder and salt, stirring and tossing until the pumpkin seeds begin to brown and pop. Cool.

For the Salad

Top the salad dressing with 6 ounces butter lettuce, toss and taste for seasoning. Top each serving with a the pumpkin seeds. Other nice additions might be cucumber or avocado.

Serves 4.

Taco #4

Recipe: Chinese Quinoa Salad

Recipe: Chinese Quinoa Salad

Yes, I am jumping continents and countries to pull together these flavors, but the end result is fantastic. If you haven't tried quinoa before, this is the place to start. It's the superfood grain of the Incas and is a perfect protein. But does it taste good? Um, yes. It has a nutty flavor and a great texture, a brilliant alternative to rice or other grains. Mixed with some roasted veggies and a delicious Chinese-inspired peanut vinaigrette and you have a great light supper or lunches ready for a several days.

For the vinaigrette:
1/2 cup unsalted peanuts
Juice of 1 lime
1/2 cup rice-wine vinegar
2 tablespoon soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tsp vegetarian fish sauce
freshly ground tsp pepper
1 tsp crushed red pepper
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

For the salad:
1 head broccoli, cut into small florets
5 carrots, peeled and cut into small pieces
Spray olive oil
Salt
1 cup quinoa (I used red quinoa)
4 green onions, cut into 1/4-inch slices
8 oz. Baked tofu, cut into 1/4 inch dice
1/3 cup of slivered almonds

To make the vinaigrette:

In a blender, combine the ingredients from the unsalted peanuts to the crushed red pepper. Process until the peanuts are pureed into the liquid, although you may have a few little bits of nuts left which is fine. Add the canola oil and the sesame oil, process until combined. Set aside.

To roast the veggies:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. On cookie sheet lined with foil, arrange the carrots and broccoli on separate sides. Spray both with the olive oil and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. of salt. Toss with your hands to combine and ensure they are coated with the oil. Roast for about 20 minutes and check the texture. The carrots may take a few minutes more than the broccoli, so you may need to removed it from the pan.

Cook the quinoa according the package direction.

To assemble the salad:

In a big yellow bowl, combine the quinoa with the veggies, tofu, green onion and almonds. Toss to combine. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the salad, add freshly ground pepper and toss to combine. Taste for seasoning and adjust salt and pepper. This salad can be served at room temperature or you could warm it in the oven.

Red Quinoa Salad

This isn't so much a recipe, as it is an idea: a delicious quinoa salad that is easy to prepare and perfect to pack in lunches for the week. I tossed red quinoa with roasted veggies (broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, mushrooms and parsnips) and a creamy garlic vinaigrette then added chopped celery, sliced green onion and walnuts. Delicious and simple.

I also roasted more veggies than I could use in the salad so I could use the rest in wraps or toss with greens for a simple salad. For the quinoa salad, use about 1 cup uncooked quinoa, 2 1/2 to 3 cups roasted veggies, 2-3 ribs of celery, 3 green onions and 1/4 cup coarsely-chopped walnuts.

Recipe: Creamy Garlic Vinaigrette
1/4 cup mayonnaise (I used Vegenaise)
2 cloves crushed garlic
4 tbsp Champagne vinegar
3 tbsp olive oil
Salt

In big yellow bowl, whisk together the mayo, garlic, vinegar and salt to taste (about 1 tsp, you can add more later). Continue whisking as you drizzle in the olive oil. Taste and adjust seasoning; I always want a little more vinegar than most people. And remember, not too much salt as I assume you salted your veggies when you roasted then! You can adjust again after you get it all combined.

Add the veggies; toss and add the celery, green onions and walnuts; finally, fold in the quinoa. Taste and adjust seasoning, including freshly ground pepper.

Four serving.

I guess it is a recipe after all! Enjoy.

Perfect Salad Dressing for Fall

I made this the first time to dress a salad I was serving alongside big bowls of chili. The sweet and tangy dressing was the perfect counterpoint to the spiciness of the chili. As I was eating it, I kept thinking how it was the perfect salad dressing for fall. I usually just whip up a basic mustard vinaigrette in the bowl before I add in the greens and other accompaniments, tossing it all together just before serving. But, a container of this delicious dressing in the fridge could be an entirely new path to follow: it's creamy, but not overly so; it's sweet from the maple syrup, but not cloying; and the vinegar brings it all together with a little punch.

Consider it topping:

• Baby mesclun with pear, blue cheese and almonds.
• Salad Greens with roasted sweet potatoes and toasted pecans.
• Roasted root vegetables, white beans and celery.
• Spinach salad with dried fruits and slices of Granny Smith apples
  

The ideas are endless and completely up to you, but consider trying it as the weather turns cooler and your thoughts turn to cheesy casseroles, hearty stews and spicy chilies.

Recipe: Maple Vinaigrette
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar or other white wine vinegar
1/2 cup walnut oil (adds a nice, nutty balance to the syrup, but vegetable or Canola oil also work just fine)
Salt and pepper to taste

In a small yellow bowl, combine the mayonnaise and maple syrup and whisk until combined. Add the vinegar and whisk until combined. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking until the dressing is completely emulsified. Taste and add salt and freshly ground black pepper as needed. Refrigerate until you are ready to use.

Kitchen tip:

It's important to toss salad just before serving, but that doesn't mean everything can't be ready to go. I put my dressing in the bottom of the salad bowl, top with the green and then add the other ingredients. You can chill the bowl for an hour or so at this point, and when you're ready just toss to combine everything--and none of it will be limp or wilty.

Likewise, if you're packing a salad for lunch, don't put your dressing in a separate container. Just put enough in the bottom of your salad dish and pack everything on top of it. Shake to get the vinaigrette on every piece of your salady goodness.

Recipe: Mustard Potato Salad (for a crowd)

I put this recipe together for my friends Melissa and Shane, who left Monday for Kentucky. Stephanie and Jonah hosted a great good-bye bash in their yard and we all enjoyed burgers, salads, watermelon push pops and an array of pies. Yum. And sniff. I also made Mildred's Baked Beans, a personal favorite.

Recipe: Mustard Potato Salad

For the vinaigrette:
3 tablespoons favorite mustard (not yellow)
3 tablespoons Champagne wine vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
2-3 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:
6 pounds red potatoes, cleaned and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
6 green onions, thinly sliced
Faux bacon bits (Such as Bac-uns from Whole Foods)

Bring a large pot and a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the onion for 1-2 minutes, then run under cold water to stop the cooking. Cook the potatoes, stirring occasionally, until they are just tender. About 12-15 minutes. Run under cold water to stop the cooking.

In the meantime, in a big yellow bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil and whisk until emulsified. Add the potatoes, onion, green onion, tarragon and Bac-uns if using. Toss to combine, then taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper. Chill for at least an hour, but overnight if you wish, to let the flavors meld. Then bring to room temperature, toss again and adjust seasoning.

Recipe: Happy Sandwich Salad for Ganesh

I portioned this out: half with hot, pickled okra and the other without.

John wrote and mentioned he made the happy sandwich salad with the addition of garam masala, a spice mixture from India. I had been thinking of adapting my recipe with the addition of curry, spiciness and eastern flavors, and his addition spurred me to action. Here's the updated recipe for Happy Sandwich Salad with an Indian accent. Read about preparing the tofu here.

Recipe: Happy Sandwich Salad for Ganesh
3 ribs celery, sliced horizontally in three pieces and cut on the diagonal into quarter-inch pieces
3/4 cup mayonnaise or mayonnaise style product*
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. tumeric
2 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. dry mustard
A large pinch of cayenne
2 tbsp. Mayor Grey chutney, large piece chopped
1 14-oz package of Chinese-style tofu
4-5 large picked okras, chopped into small to medium rounds.

In a big yellow bowl, combine the celery with the next six ingredients, stirring to blend. Using your finger, crumble the dried tofu slices into the mixture and fold until well-mixed. Add the okra and stir to combine. Season with salt and freshly-ground pepper, taste and check for seasoning. This is delicious as soon as its prepared, but even better after it sits in the refrigerator overnight. Serve on toast, in a wrap, on a bed of greens or just on a spoon from the bowl.

*I've updated the recipe with a little more mayo, realizing I use a heaping 1/2 cup (more like 3/4 cup) rather than a perfect 1/2 cup. But, to your taste of course!

Ingredients: Imitation

The last time I was in the Kroger picking up some groceries, the woman in front of me was buying a large container of Mullen's Imitation French Dressing. I was intrigued. French dressing, although thought delicious by some (indeed, the only dressing I liked as a child), isn't really French. But reader, you already knew that. What could imitation French dressing possibly be?

So today, as I picking up some groceries, I made a point of checking Mullen's product out. Apparently, they produce only two different dressings that are stocked by the Kroger: French dressing and Imitation French Dressing. Even more intrigued. Further investigation revealed that the ingredients in both were exactly the same, but in different proportions. Hmmmm.

The web site revealed this information about the Imitation French Dressing:

For many decades J.D. Mullen marketed this delicious dressing Americans have loved, no matter what is was called. in order to meet state and federal law requirements, we chose to change the name rather than add more oil to the original recipe. You'll find this delightful pouring type dressing light and delicious.

And this about Mullen's French Dressing:

	J.D. Mullen created a formula designed to meet strict government standards or a French dressing using the same ingredients as the original recipe. More corn oil was added and the other were ingredients reapportioned. Because it is not quite so tart or sweet, some folks like it even better.

Apparently, some folks have the government to blame or thank. I didn't buy either.

Gadget: Salad Days

I'll admit it: I have a weakness for salad tongs. First of all, if you're on a trip somewhere at a great home store (say, Bloomingdale's Home in Chicago) and you see a great set of salad tongs, it's easy to slip them into the suitcase. Secondly, if you have a lot of dishes and might catch some flack for purchasing more when you get home, it's also easy to sneak said tongs into the house and later convince your spouse they have been there forever and that if they were more observant, they probably would have noticed. Plus, salad tongs are an easy way to mix up the dinner service and add a little bit of flair to a starter course of the meal, whether for guests or just for you.

Salad tip: bottle dressings are a waste of money. It's almost as easy to mix up a batch of vinaigrette yourself, right in the salad bowl. After it's mixed, simply top with your greens and put in to the fridge to chill, waiting until just before you're ready to serve to toss.

Here's my collection of salad tongs: some old, some new, none you can borrow, one set that's blue.

This set is in its original box and also has matching salt and pepper shakers.

This is probably my favorite set: red plastic that references gingko leaves. It looks great with the pink and green salad bowl, but equally at home with the wood bowl or just plain old Pyrex.

This is a vintage set I got at the auction from the Wonder Woman estate. It's part of the original service designed for the invisible jet. Sadly, the invisible salad bowl went for far above the reserve and I wasn't able to get it.

This set is blue on blue, but it's difficult to tell in the photo. The opposite side of each is dark blue and light blue, for an interesting look. Crate and Barrel currently has them in green.

This lovely set was a gift and is so very Pucci, 1960s.

Mitchell gave me this set, also in the original box, as an early Christmas present. Unique!

Blue Dahlia and Mandola's

Yesterday I met Molly for lunch at the relatively new Blue Dahlia Bistro on east 12th street. It was a lovely warm January day, so we dined al fresco on their beautiful patio. The menu is primarily sandwiches and salads, but presented in a truly elegant fashion with wonderful bread. They also serve breakfast, and I'll certainly be back to try that at some point.

I had a black bean salad which was studded with lovely pieces of avocado, mango and covered in a citrus and cumin scented dressing. Molly had a turkey sandwich topped with a chutney and presented open faced on a board. It was a delicious and relaxing lunch.

In the afternoon, I had a work appointment at Mandola's and treated myself to some of the sweets from their pastry case. They have some many to choose from, plus gelato, fresh cheeses and many other wonderful items in their grocery. I selected an agnetti cookie (which I almost always get) which are the little donut shaped ones in the middle of the case. They're covered in a lemony icing and are just the right texture: not too soft, not too hard. I also had a small sfogliatelle, which is a filled with a citrus-flavored ricotta with a shell of filo or some other think pasty. WON-derful.

Blue Dahlia Bistro
1115 E. 11th St.
Austin, TX 78702
512.542.9542

Mandola's
4700 W Guadalupe St # 12
Austin, TX 78751
512.419.9700

Back to the Cucumber Salad

My paternal grandmother, Lora Mildred Marie Stevenson Whisenhunt (almost Thomas) and me, a few days before my third birthday. (Called Mildred by most, she was Mam-ma to many more people than her grandchildren.) She was to be married the day before my third birthday and would miss my party while on her honeymoon, so we celebrated early.(shown here) Ever year on my birthday, she would call and remind me of how she had missed my third birthday and how we had a special party.

This summer, we have received piles and piles of really exquisite Asian or English cucumbers. These are the very long and slender ones you often find wrapped in plastic at the supermarket and marketed as burp-less or seedless. There are some small seeds, but these are easily scraped out and discarded.

I like to make a crisp, refreshing salad by combining them with onion and some sort of dressing. I usually just use a vinegar and water mixture, but as mentioned a few posts ago I also like to use sour cream and dill which turns them into crunchy/creamy combo.

When I was growing up, I don't think we every had a meal at my Mam-ma's that didn't involve a bowl of cucumbers and onions. She would slice peeled cukes thinly, not bothering to remove the seeds, and mix them with some white onion, white distilled vinegar and a little bit of sugar. Their sharp, astringent taste was always a perfect complement to the casserole or macaroni she had prepared to go with the steak, roast or chicken that was the centerpiece of the meal.

I remember when I was in college, I called her to ask how to make them.

She said, "Just slice up the peeled cucumber, add sliced onion, vinegar, water and a little salt and a little sugar."

I said "How much vinegar? How much water?"

She replied, "Enough."

I inquired again, "But, how much do you start with?"

She stated what would be obvious to someone with experience in the kitchen, "It depends on how many cucumbers you have."

"And what about the sugar? A little or a lot?"

She said, "Until it tastes right."

I admit that occasionally I do use plain white vinegar with my cucumbers, simply because I enjoy the nostalgic taste. (Not Proust's madeleines by any means, but a trip back to my childhood table.) More likely, I use some sort of fruity vinegar, which has a softer flavor. If there is sour cream, I'll mix that in. And I always enjoy a little bit of dill sprinkled over it with some freshly ground pepper. Regardless of what I mix in, I always think about my Mam-ma and our conversation about cucumber salad.