Friendly Little Dinner

Entertaining isn't something we do as frequently as we used to, probably because we are still making friends here and also because work and life in general is very busy. I remember a time when we had friends over for dinner at least once a week, sometimes for last-minute dinner parties but other times for overly-detailed celebrations. Now, we probably only host two or three times a year, so when we do, you know I pull out every stop; consider the use of every dish, plate, sherbet or goblet; and pour over every recipe that has been waiting in the wings.

When our friends Gab and Kristina came in from Boston, MA and Dallas, TX for a quick trip to Marfa and Fort Davis, I put a lot of thought into each of the six courses (yes, six), not just what I would serve, but also in what I would serve each culinary creation...food photos courtesy of Gab, one of our guests!

To start:
Mustard-marscarpone spread with toasts, sesame sticks, bread sticks, assorted olives and almonds served in the little black lotus bowls with the black tidbit plates.

First course:
Double-baked three-cheese soufflé served in individual cast iron skillets with a white, Rosenthal under plate.

Salad course:
Butter lettuce with a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on white, Rosenthal salad plates.

Main course:
Homemade bucatini with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese in the oddly shaped pasta bowls.

Intermezzo:
Basil gelato in the chartreuse Russel Wright sherbets.

Dessert:
Easy candy bar tart on the patterned, Rosenthal dessert plates.

If I say so myself, everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time talking and catching up over the course of the meal. The only thing I felt like need some tweaking was the salad dressing, which was a little on the sour side--but the citrus, red pepper and oregano were a great flavor combination and will probably become something else in the kitchen.  The gelato and pomodoro were of my own devising, so there are a couple of recipes for you to try.

Recipe: Basil Gelato
I use corn starch to thicken my gelato, although many recipes use eggs instead. This recipe is the perfect thing to bridge an Italian main course and dessert; its first taste is sweet, which is replaced with a strong herbaceous flavor and ends with the spicy note of basil. Affected? Yes, but effective.


2 cups basil leaves
3 cups milk
3 tbsp corn starch
¾ cup sugar
1 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. salt

Combine basil, 2 1/2 cups milk, sugar, zest and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a two quart saucepan and heat gently until sugar dissolves.  In the meantime, combine the remaining milk with the cornstarch and whisk to form a slurry.  Continuing heating the basil-milk mixture until it begins to steam; stir in the slurry and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened.  Remove from heat and pour through a fine strainer; chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or for best performance with your ice cream maker, overnight.  Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves.

Makes about one quart of gelato.

Recipe: Pasta al Pomodoro
Everyone has a favorite red sauce and it may come from a jar--there are so many good-quality brands out there it is easy to find several you like. Lately, I've been trying to find my own perfect recipe and have tried every trick, idea or suggestion. My version combines slowly cooked onion, garlic, tomato sauce and great canned tomatoes to make a delicious sauce. My secret ingredient? Fennel pollen. My secret tool? Using the immersion blender for a smooth, delicious sauce.

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes or whole tomatoes, use a very good brand
1 8-ounce can of tomato sauce
Pinch of fennel pollen
Kosher salt
3 large fresh basil sprigs

To assemble:
12 ounces bucatini or spaghetti
2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving.  You'll want more!

Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2-4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute more. Increase heat to medium, add tomatoes, sauce and season lightly with kosher salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens a little, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil sprigs, cover and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour.  Remove basil, purée with an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender, until very smooth.

When you're ready to serve, bring water to a boil in a large. Season with salt; add spaghetti or bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally, until not quite tender. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water, then drain pasta.

Bring pasta back to a simmer, add pasta and some of the pasta water; cook, stirring, until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove pan from heat; add butter and cheese; toss until cheese melts. Serve with more cheese, if desired.  It will be desired!

Serves fours.  The sauce can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd or to have some to save for later.  I added chopped green and kalamata olives, four extra cloves of minced garlic and 1 tsp. of red pepper flakes to my leftovers for a spicy, easy 'puttanesca.' 

Green Chile Pasta

When we were in Mexico a couple of years ago, we had dinner at a little Italian place, twice I think--it was either that or another quesadilla!  They served an avocado pasta sauce that somehow blended the ingredients of the Yucatan with the cuisine of Italy. It was more than memorable, it was unique and special. Unforgettable.

I haven't tried to recreate it, but the idea has lingered in my mind. And the other day I was thinking about those green chiles in my freezer, the avocado sauce, citrus...and a creamy pasta sauce. This was my first attempt, but I think it turned out very well...



Recipe: Green Chile-Avocado Pasta Sauce
The subtle heat and buttery flavor of the Hatch chiles is emphasized by the avocado and lime. Utterly delicious and decadent.

Ingredients
1 lb. bow tie or linguine pasta
6-7 Hatch (Anaheim) green chiles, roasted, seeded and skinned (you should be able to find those in your freezer if you went to all of that trouble earlier in the year.)
1 large avocado, seeded, diced and skinned
Zest and juice of one lime
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 oz. cream cheese (This is what I did with the leftover from the Hot Onion Soufflé!)
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup cilantro, thick stems removed
1 Serrano pepper, halved and seeded, cut into large pieces
Salt to taste

Directions
Cook pasta according to directions on the package. In a food processor, combine all the other ingredients and process until smooth. Once pasta is cooked, reserve 1/2 cup pasta water, drain and stir in sauce. Add pasta water until a smooth, creamy consistency is reached. Taste and adjust seasoning.

I added a can a drained and rinsed garbanzo beans, but you could choose any protein you might like.


Your Lasagna is in My Cupcake! Your Cupcake is in My Lasagna!

I realize I am late to the table (Ahem.) with this one, but I was afraid you were too, so I wanted to share this fantastic, easy and delicious idea with you: lasagna cupcakes! No, no, no...it's not what you're thinking. I would never suggest you bake cupcakes that are flavored like lasagna. These are individual lasagnas baked in a cupcake pan and they are delectable and super simple.

The secret? Won ton wrappers. You can either buy the round ones (some places stock them) or do as I did and buy the square ones, then cut them with a biscuit cutter. What are won ton wrappers? Basically fresh pasta, right? So what you get are little lasagnas layered with thin sheets of pasta and your favorite filling. If you have a pasta roller, you could do the same with it and just cut the pasta into round to fill the tins. In fact, this is perfect for satisfying a variety of taste, because in theory you could make each lasagna a different flavor.

Recipe? I would love to give you one, but in this case, lasgana cupcakes are not an exact science. You need ricotta, sauce, mozzarella and maybe some Parmesan to make them, plus whatever else you would like to add. Thin slices of zucchini? Broccoli? Tomatoes? Whatever. If you are using a firmer vegetable, you may want to cook it a little before using it as filling.

Spray your pan with cooking spray or a light layer of oil, then layer won ton wrapper, ricotta, sauce+any other filling and then cheese. Repeat and for the final layer use a won ton wrapper, sauce to the edge and them a layer or cheese.

In the end, pop these into the oven at 350 degrees for 20 minutes and you are good. Let them rest for five minutes and you're ready to serve. I've made several variations, including a traditional tomato as well as a butternut squash. They are great leftover and are a perfect meal with a salad or any simple vegetable.

 

Gadgetry

Who doesn't love a gadget for the kitchen or something new for the table? You know from reading bYb as well as its sister blog, Manic Thrift Store Shopper that I love nothing more! A kitchen tool that does only one thing? Yes, please. A dish specific to serving a particular food? Thank you! A pot that I only use once a year, but use it to prepare something exquisite? Why not?! Some tools/toys are better than others, but I always enjoy adding something new to the arsenal...

With the Kitchenaid came...the world of Kitchenaid accessories! It's a slippery slope. I quickly added the glass mixing bowl (for aesthetic as well as usability reasons) and the pasta extruded. Fresh bucatini? Easy and ready in a matter of moments. I'm sure, despite the naysayers, it will pay for itself. Plus it was technically a gift...

As was this magnificent sugar bowl. Yes, that's right: sugar bowl. I was shopping with my friend David in Houston when we came across it at a vintage store. He remembered how enamored I was with it and sent it as a very generous birthday gift. I have never seen anything like and I cannot wait for you to come over for coffee and sweet rolls, so that I can serve you sugar from this magnificent bowl!

And speaking of coffee, I picked up this great milk frother/steamer on a recent trip. I hate putting cold milk in my coffee and now I never will! I will be very happy to serve you a fancy coffee with some hot foamy goodness to which you can add sugar from my fly sugar bowl! Or steamy cocoa? Easy, breezy with the touch of a button.

And finally, I got a handy little tortilla warmer that reminds me of one of my favorite designers, Alexander Girard. Supposedly, 45 seconds in the microwave and it will keep the little guys warm for up to an hour! I'll report back on how it works...

 

White Lady

A couple of weeks ago, I finally had the pleasure of entertaining in the new place. It was relaxed and casual, with dinner served on the terrace on a beautiful West Texas evening. I wanted something simple, so I opted for Italian, utilizing some of my favorite recipes which are easy fare, but not your basic spaghetti with meatless balls.

To start, I served some olives, breadsticks (HEB sells the brand above from Liguria in three different flavors, but you can find them here. Addicted!) and these delicious artichokes which are similar to a stuffed version, but oh so much easier.

Next was one of my favorite salads for fall: Dama Bianca. This salad is very simple, but combines ingredients in a way that makes them special--and delicious! Fennel, celery hearts and fresh mozzarella dressed with lemon juice and olive oil combine to create the "white lady," an Italian classic.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
What makes this simple salad so delicious is the care you take in preparing the ingredients. Unless you're a master chef who can slice celery and fennel like it is butter, it's best to use a mandolin as paper thin slices of both take on a different quality than thicker slices. Likewise, tearing the cheese gives it the perfect, feathery texture to complement the crunch of the vegetables. Traditionally, this salad is made with the female fennel bulbs, which are fat and wide and considered to be sweeter than the male.

2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, but reserve a few of the fronds for garnish
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves reserved and stalks thinly sliced
1 (1/2-pound) ball buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Halve fennel lengthwise and remove the core, then thinly slice crosswise with a mandolin or shaver, then layer in a large salad bowl. Top with celery and mozzarella. Whisk together zest, juice, oil, sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and drizzle over salad. Garnish with the celery leaves and fennel fronds.

For the main course, I served a pasta dressed with a pea and walnut pesto then tossed with some white beans. This sauce is delicious anytime of year made with frozen peas, but is especially good with fresh peas in the spring. My published recipe is vegan, but I used Parmesan cheese since it was dinner for company.

Dessert was my best chocolate gelato recipe with amaretti cookies crumbled over the top. Of course I had a small bowl to nibble on the side. No one wanted coffee, so we sipped small glasses of Weller's bourbon, which has always been a favorite I could never find in Indiana.

It was a fun evening and wonderful to share food with friends.

Peas, Please

Saturday at the farmer's market was all about the green: asparagus, broccoli and shell peas. I'm not sure what I'll do with the asparagus and broccoli, but I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the peas: pasta.

Guilano Hazan's new cookbook, Thirty Minute Pasta: 100 quick and easy recipes, is filled with wonderful recipes and ideas for pasta. Think you've made every pasta imaginable? Think you have already tossed everything you can toss with noodles? Think again.

The idea for the peas with pasta is simplicity embodied: cook an onion; add some peas; puree half of the mixture; add back to the peas with some pasta water; and finally toss with the pasta. I made this recipe during the winter with frozen peas and it was delicious, but making it with fresh peas took the pasta to a whole new level.

Since there is no butter, cheese, citrus or other flavors, the sweet, green essence of the peas really sings a magnificent solo. The only thing you need is salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, which provides the perfect contrast to the peas. A drizzle of olive oil over the finished dish? Delizioso!

Peas Please

I took a break from tacos this week and made a delicious pasta from Guilano Hazan's new quick pasta book. There are lots of delicious ideas in it, but this sounded like spring to me--a sauce made from peas, some whole and some pureed, with lots of pepper. It was divine!

Uruguayan

Friday night after the Swope event, we were out with friends at Moggers to enjoy a little food and a couple of drinks. Jimmy turned to me and said, "Name a country." Without hesitation, I responded, "Uruguay."

Why? I have no idea. I was tired and it just popped into my head. What was Jimmy asking? Inspiration for his Saturday night menu, which we were going to enjoy before catching up on Top Chef. Or course, Jimmy hadn't qualified his question and I just answered it randomly. I know if he had said, "What type of cuisine would you like to have tomorrow?," I would never have said Uruguay. Probably Thai or Chinese. Maybe something Moroccan as there has been a lot of talk about tagines lately. But never Uruguay.

Why? I've never had it and probably never will. It's meaty and about grilling, roasting and asado. Asado is the traditional grilling of beef over hot coals. Of course, since we're all vegetarians, Jimmy is not going to be doing any beef asado. But thankfully, there are other influences important to Uruguayan cuisine and he whipped up a delicious pasta with Sauce Caruso.

What is Sauce Caruso? A Uruguayan sauce created in honor of a visit to South American by the famous tenor, Enrico Caruso. After, it spread the globe and every restaurant in Uruguay is encouraged to include it on their menu. Sauce Caruso is made from cream, sliced onions, mushroom, warming spices and walnuts. It also traditionally includes ham, but of course Jimmy left that out, but added some seitan. A light purple-y color, tossed with campanelle and tossed with a little cheese, the sauce was delicious. And Jimmy sent us home with leftovers. (Just as delicious the next day!) Amazing. So, he took the peculiar challenge and won it. Five stars.

And dessert? Ellie made the traditional Uruguayan dessert of rich, delicious browning topped with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce. Seriously, they invented it and we thank them. Possibly the best brownie ever...

I'm not sure where Jimmy got his recipe from, but here is a recipe for Sauce Caruso if you are intrigued. And you should be.

Ingredients: Barilla No Cook Lasagna Noodles

I think one of the first things I learned to make from my mother was lasagna. It was a great skill to find and very empowering: with lasagna you can feed a crowd and if you keep the flavors basic, it's usually something everyone enjoys. Some bread and salad, a little something for dessert: instant dinner party. It couldn't be easier, could it? In fact, I remember my first 'dinner party' in my apartment in Norman, OK when I was at OU and I'm sure I served lasagna. I know it's not the same lasagna I make today, and imagine it was probably filled with a meaty sauce, but the principles remain the same.

But, I eventually figured out it could be easier. One way in which I have varied my recipe from the method Barbara taught me is the no-cook method I've been using for years. It's pretty simple, you use conventional noodles, but don't boil them, adding extra liquid to the sauce. They cook as the lasagna bakes and its comes out perfectly. I can put together a lasagna in less that thirty minutes and have it out of the oven in an hour, resting and ready to go while salad is being passed.

So you are probably wondering why I would mess with success? Why alter a recipe/process that's served me for almost twenty years? I read somewhere that the oven ready noodles Barilla produces have a superior flavor and texture than conventional noodles, but were just as easy to use. The difference? Barilla Oven Ready Lasagne Noodles are made with egg, so the pasta is lighter, more delicate and great for baking.

I tried it. I even did four layers of lasagna instead of three. And what I read was correct, the Barilla noodles are light and taste almost like fresh pasta sheets rolled out at home. It's easy to do, but according to Barilla you need about eight cups of sauce to accomplish the four-layer version. So, if you're trying to think of something to serve for dinner for your family or friends, throw together a simple lasagna using Barilla noodles that will please everyone.

My other lasagna tip: toasted, slivered almonds in each layer. A surprising ingredient, they add texture and their wonderful nutty flavor to the classic Italian melange. I'll provide my full recipe for lasagna using the Barilla noodles later, but I'm sure you have one you enjoy that could be adapted easily using this product. From my kitchen to yours...

Pasta and Eggs


The other night I made a delicious pasta dressed with garbanzo beans, lemons and roasted broccoli. But, as I got out the fourth and final helping for dinner, I was feeling a little was bored. I happen to be reading Lynn Rosetto Kasper's new cookbook, The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper. The Splendid Table is Kasper's NPR radio program on food and cooking, a wealth of tips and ideas. Of course, the idea of a public radio program on cooking has the makings for parody (Remember Alec Bladwin and his Schweaty Balls on SNL in the early 90s?), but Kasper has the personality and experience to pull the program off in an authentic way.

One of the chapters in the book is on eggs and is filled with wonderful ideas like pan-fried deviled eggs and salad with potato and hard cooked eggs. Reading the recipes and looking at the photos made me hungry for eggs, and as I looked at my plate of leftover pasta thought it might taste better topped with an egg fried in olive oil. I was right.


Recipe: Pasta with Broccoli, Garbanzo Beans and Lemon

1 16 oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
1 large lemon
Olive oil (flavored with citrus is you have it)
1 large head of broccoli
12 oz of tubish pasta such at ziti
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. While it warms, wash the broccoli and cut into small florets. Toss in a baking pan with 2 tbsp. Of olive oil, some salt and a little pepper. Roast in the oven until done, 12 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat water to boiling and cook pasta according to package directions.

In a big yellow bowl, place the garbanzo beans and 1 to 2 tbsp of olive oil. Grate the lemon zest directly into the bowl, then juice the lemon and add. Using a fork or potato masher, coarsely mash the beans and oil into a thick, chunky paste. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta. Add the water to thin the beans, then add pasta, tossing to coat. Add the Parmesan cheese in small amounts, tossing with each addition so it is well mixed and doesn't clump into the pasta. Toss in the cooked broccoli, taste and season with salt and pepper. Enjoy. Makes 4 servings.

(Top with a fried egg, if you wish.)

Mangez!

Simple, Delicious Pasta

I created this recipe a while back, inspired by what was left in the pantry. The sauce is creamy, nutty and delicious.

Recipe: Pasta with Tomatoes and Garbanzo Sauce

1 16-oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
1 24-oz can diced tomatoes, do not drain
2 cloves garlic, crushed or coarsely chopped
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
2 tbsp. olive oil (lemon, if you have it)
1/4 cup slivered almonds
Salt and Pepper to taste.
12 oz. penne or rotinni
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Heat a large pot of boiling water and cook the pasta according to the package directions.

In a food processor, combine the garbanzo beans, garlic, red pepper, olive oil and almonds. Drain the tomato liquid into the processor. Process for 2-3 minutes or until a creamy, sauce-like consistency is reached. Add additional water if necessary, but you can wait and add more water when you toss it with the pasta.

Put the sauce in a large bowl and add the diced tomatoes and Parmesan cheese. Toss to combine. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta to the sauce and tomatoes, tossing with reserved pasta water if necessary to thin the sauce. Top each plate with additional Parmesan cheese at the table.

Serves 4-6 people.