Compartmentalized

I was born a snob. I'm not sure how it happened, but even as I child I had a very clear idea of 'how things should be.' Of course, bending the world to your will isn't always easy, especially when you're young. Enter Mam-ma. I have written a lot about the food she prepared and all of the delicious treats I remember, from Hummingbird Cake to store-bought biscuits. But, what I haven't talked about is how she served them.

I'm not trying to degrade the memory of my Mam-ma, or her methods. I'm just trying to be honest: I never liked to eat out of divided plastic trays. For her, it was easier and when you are trying to serve a large number of people a great variety of foods, what could be better than providing them plates with spaces for everything from cutlery to a mug. These could be slipped into the dishwasher and voila. Generally, we didn't even dirty serving dishes unless it was a special Sunday supper, you simply made your way from the salads and cold dishes on the counter to the right, to the stove where the main courses (turkey and ham and noodles and dumplings) and side dishes were kept warm on the left I've already discussed in length the placement of the pies and the dessert.

This was about convenience; she wanted to get the people fed, but she absolutely did not want to be bogged down with piles of dishes to do after. She wanted to enjoy the company of her family and share a meal with them. Period. But trays? It felt so school cafeteria. To me, it lacked specialness: all of the time and effort spent shopping and chopping and cooking deserved a better frame. A nicer frame.

I don't ever remember eating off of the white china decorated with blue roses in the china cabinet. My brother has it now along with her silver plate, but I'm not sure he uses it. (And his wife's grandmother had the same pattern. China kismet!) But, this was what I wanted: actual dishes, not plastic trays or Corelle; nice flatware in a variety of shapes and sizes; cloth napkins folded prettily at each place; covered serving pieces; crystal glasses from tiny to large; cocktails in the library before dinner was served; little salt and pepper shakers; maids from France to serve the hors d'oeuvres; glass coasters; English butlers to announce dinner; wine glasses; champagne flutes; caviar; souffles; and GOLD-PLATED EVERYTHING! Basically, I wanted life to be a dinner party from a 1930s romantic comedy. Even at the age of ten.

Sigh. This isn't the way things were, but it is a lot of the reason behind the way things are.

Enter bento. How can the Japanese make me reconsider the presentation problem of my youth? How can the dissatisfaction with the plastic trays be transferred to the beautiful faux-lacquer black and red boxes used at Japanese restaurants? Compartmentalized dishes filled with rice; a simple salad; tempura vegetable; pickled ginger; sushi and many other savory treats. But why does it hurt my feelings? How can I love it so, but still feel the same about the plastic trays? I know in reality you cannot equate the two, but in my mind there is a Ninja battle between them.

So now, twenty-some-odd-thirty years later, I reverse my position. I say: bring on the divided plastic tray in all of its iterations, from bento box to TV tray to standard cafeteria fare! I declare my Mam-ma the Avatar of Ease and Convenience for her forward-thinking and international lessons on making sure everyone got what they wanted to eat and not spending two hours setting the table and another two hours cleaning up.

Let everyone have a tray filled with delicious food and be happy, from prisoners to princesses!

Accoutrement

For my birthday, I received a stash of cooking and entertaining accoutrement from friends and family...

I picked out this serving set when I was shopping with mom sometime last year, but had completely forgotten about them. I think the proportion of eat; short and kind of fat, I think they'll great with a lot of my dishes, but especially the Paul McCobb.

I had been wanting a salt pig for while, but have never wanted to dedicate the counter space to one. So, when Crate and Barrel came out with these baby salt pigs, I was smitten. I have already had one for plain and one for black lava salt, so I put smoked salt in the third. I have to refill the plain one more than I probably want to, but I still appreciate the diminutive size. Likewise, I don't mash up things with a mortar and pestle often enough to have a giant one, but this tiny example is perfect for a few spices or maybe a clove of garlic. It's so cute, it should have a little smiley face on it.

Jimmy & Ellie gave me a couple of very thoughtful gifts...

This brilliant creamer and sugar was designed by Russel Wright and matches my new set of dishes found over the holidays. The creamer is the lid of the sugar bowl, saving precious table (or cabinet) space. Ingenious. And, it is the covetous 'Pink Sherbet.'

This amazing item is probably a bread server? It has a small basket inside to keep whatever you put in it suspended and away from the wall of the sphere. It's also designed by Russel Wright and is what I would consider to be a very rare example of his spun aluminum creations. I don't have any in my collection and have personally only seen them in museum exhibitions like the one the Wolfsonian organized several years ago about design and aluminum. Does it remind you of anyone? From Sesame Street??

Wonderful presents; wonderful surprise party; wonderful friends and family.

Thank you!

Reminiscing: Epergne

A few weeks before Christmas, I received an e-mail from my friend April with a simple question: what is your favorite word? Interesting and fun, I initially said 'spatula,' but then confessed it was actually the favorite word of an old friend and I had stolen it from them. So, I gave my personal favorite word: epergne.

An epergne is a fancy centerpiece, traditionally made from silver (but also from glass in the late 19th century) used to serve a variety of things. You often see these archaic pieces in museums, tier upon tier of little baskets and other small containers intended to hold fruit, sweatmeats and other treats. I love the word, but I also love the object it stands for and the fact that like many serving items, it has gone the way of the dinosaur. Reader, you probably think that just because you eat your dinner with a fork, knife and spoon that your descendants 200 years from now will also eat their dinner with a fork, knife and spoon. But consider this: aristocrats didn't start using forks until the Renaissance. And what's more, they were expected to bring their own when they came to dinner! Plus, more people on this planet use chopsticks than forks. Chances are, in 200 years some completely new food delivery system will have been developed and forks will only be seen in museums. Like epergnes.

So anyway, I thought, "what a delightful game. Name your favorite word." But a few weeks later, I received a package from April containing a little frame with a my favorite word embroidered and embellished. I love it and it is truly unique. You can find fabulous things by April here.