Difference

Sometimes, things you think are the same are actually different.  Take for instance, the breakfast taco and breakfast burrito.  Anyone who has ever eaten a breakfast taco and a breakfast burrito can probably tell you: they aren't the same thing.  It's about proportion, scale and sometimes ingredients.  But some people, even Texas Monthly prescribes the difference to regional nomenclature, suggesting a breakfast taco and burrito are identical.  But just about any child (in Texas anyways) can tell you that, besides proportion and scale, a burrito is rolled, whereas a taco is folded.

Which brings me to migas.  And chilaquiles.  ¿Cuál es la diferencia?

The Epicurious Food Dictionary definition says:

chilaquiles [chee-lah-KEE-lehs]
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn TORTILLA strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green CHILES, cheese, CHORIZO and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like LASAGNA and baked.


The dictionary doesn't define migas, but Wikipedia offers the explanation for the Tex-Mex version, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese iterations:


migas [me-gus]
In Tex-Mex cuisine, migas [me-gus] are a traditional breakfast dish consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with strips of corn tortilla; the meatless version includes diced onions, sliced chile peppers, diced fresh tomatoes, and cheese, plus various spices and condiments (e.g. salsa or pico de gallo). Migas are typically served with refried beans, and corn or flour tortillas are used to enfold all of the ingredients into tacos. The tortilla strips can also be deep-fried until crunchy

And then some places serve chilaquiles with eggs.  So what is what?  Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I tend to think definitions are important.  We have so many words in the English language, many of them borrowed from other countries and cultures, so we have the opportunity to be very specific.  Like the difference between burrito and taco!  Blurring definitions is simply lazy, which probably makes me sound old.  You're probably hearing, "why don't they teach handwriting in the public schools anymore!"

Which brings me to: addiction.  And after my confession, perhaps you can tell me what I'm making?

After moving to West Texas, I quickly became addicted to Rosa's.  Located all across West Texas, and even as far away as Dallas, Rosa's makes pretty delicious fast, Mexican food--there is no reason to go to Taco Bell.  Never.  But, what makes Rosa's special is their tortillas, which are made fresh right there in each and every store.  You can watch.  And, that is how they elevate something as simple as a bean burrito (rolled!) with cheese and delicious salsa into a revelation: bean and cheese and salsa inside a warm, soft flour tortilla probably just pulled off of the line.  Seriously, I start thinking about it and my mouth begins to water.  I pass Rosa's and I start thinking about how long I can keep myself from it.

And their chips.  And their queso!  So good.  But then you end up with a bag full of leftover chips.  Chips that were made fresh in store and don't really keep.  Chips that are pretty stale the next morning.  What to do?  Migas/chilaquiles!

So here is easy, breezy morning migas/chilaquiles when you have leftover or stale chips, some salsa, a couple of eggs...and a little cheese.

Heat some vegetable oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add enough chips to cover the bottom of the pan in one layer.  The idea is to fry the chips so they crisp up again, so stir them and turn them until they start to get a little brown.

Meanwhile, crack and beat two eggs with a little salt.  Ready your salsa (I use about 1/3 cup), some garlic and fresh pico, about 1/4 cup if you have  it (at Rosa's, they have it, so I have it.).

Once the chips are lightly brown, take the pan off the heat and add the garlic (enough) and stir until it starts to cook.  Then, dump in the salsa and pico.  It's probably going to sizzle and splatter a little.  Return to the heat and cook until the salsa is reduced a little.  Lower the temperature, add the eggs and cook until they are scrambled right into that mess.

Top with cheese and a little more salsa and voila!  Migas.  Or chilaquiles with eggs.  Or something else, I don't know.  The bottom line is that it's an easy, delicious breakfast on Sunday morning and a perfect way to use up stale chips or tortillas with your favorite salsa.  This serves two!

Recipe: Beer-Battered Tofu Taco

My family is Southern, so when I was growing up, frying was a delicious way of life. But then the 80s happened and my parents got all healthy and went through their 'orange roughy period' and all of that kind of stopped. Our Christmas dinner is fried, but otherwise I don't think there are many meals that revolve around the fried foods of my youth: fried okra, fried fish, very thin fried slices of zucchini and squash, fried chicken, fried peppers, fried cheese....and so on and so on.

And frying is a mess. That oil splatters all of over the place and you are cleaning for days. And then what do you do with the oil left in the pan? You have to deal with that as well. Not fun. So, I reserve frying for special occasions--or when I'm particularly inspired, as with this amazing taco.

First, I have to admit: I've never eaten a fish taco. But, the idea of a crisp fried piece of something in a tortilla with some aromatics and a little crunch is incredibly appealing. So, I put this recipe together using a beer batter that recalls the fried fish I remember from childhood and accompaniments that play up the crunch. Some spicy mayonnaise, a little bit of tropical salsa and you're good. It is exactly what I wanted it to be: warm, crunchy, smooth, spicy and delicious!

Plus, when you're frying tofu, you're kind of canceling out something on the bad list with something on the good list, right?

Recipe: Beer Battered Tofu Tacos Tropicale

It seems like a lot of work, but if you're organized you can put these tacos together pretty quickly. I start by warming the tortillas in a dry skillet, then wrap them in foil and toss them in a low oven. That way, they're pliable and warm then you're ready to assemble the tacos. Just put a baking sheet in the upper third of the oven and you can also put the tofu on it to stay warm as you take it out of the fryer.

For the spicy mayo:
1 cup of mayonnaise
2-4 tsp. of hot sauce

Combine the mayonnaise and hot sauce in a small bowl, use a spoon or whisk to blend together. Reserve in the refrigerator for assembling the tacos.

For the tofu

1 lb of extra-firm tofu, prepared as below

For the best texture and flavor, buy an organic extra-firm tofu and place it in the freezer for at least overnight. Take it out and let it thaw for several hours or run under warm water in the sink. It seems like a small step, but freezing and then thawing the tofu creates a firmer texture and allows you get more of the moisture removed.

Cut the tofu in half lengthwise. Using paper towels or a clean dishtowel, gentle press as much water out of the tofu as possible. This may take a couple of towels to get done. The more water you get out, the tastier your end product.

Then, cut each rectangle into six pieces. I like to cut them at slight angles so you don't end up with a perfectly shaped piece.

Set the tofu aside until ready to fry.

For the batter
1 1/2 cups flour
1/4 cup corn starch
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
scant 1/4 tsp. cayenne
1 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. onion powder
1/4 cup nutritional yeast
1 1/2 cups (12 oz) dark beer
Peanut oil for frying

Combine all of the dry ingredients in a small yellow bowl. Whisk or stir to combine. Remove 3/4 cup of the mixture to shallow bowl or pie plate.

Add the beer to the mixture in the small yellow bowl and stir to combine.

Heat the oil in large pot or skillet to 375 degrees. You will need between 48 and 64 ounces, depending on the size of your skillet.

As the oil is heating, coat the tofu in the dry flour mixture and set aside. Once, the oil reaches the appropriate temperature, dip each piece of tofu in the batter, allowing extra to drip away, then place in the skillet. Depending on the size of your skillet, you probably want to do six pieces at a time. Fry for 4-5 minutes, until the batter is puffed and golden-brown. Remove to a paper towel lined plate to drain, then place on the baking sheet in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with remaining tofu.

Accompaniments
Corn and/or flour tortillas
Cilantro, coarsely chopped
Green onion, finely sliced
Lettuce, small pieces of iceberg or butter lettuce
A fruity salsa, like mango or pineapple salsa--the sweetness goes nicely with the spicy fried tofu.

To assemble the tacos

Cut each piece of tofu in half lengthwise. Double-up the corn tortillas, if using. Spread about 1 tbsp of the spicy mayonnaise down the center of on each tortilla. Place a little bit of lettuce on the mayonnaise, top with two halves of fried tofu. Sprinkle with cilantro and green onion, then top with a spoonful of salsa.

Makes 12 tacos.

Taco #3

bigYELLOWtaco

I'm not changing the name of the blog, but I'm starting something I have been wanting to do for a while: write a cookbook. I've had lots of ideas on what I could write about it and where recipes and inspiration could be found, but not any awesome, tight, focused ideas--until now.

I miss tacos. That's where this inspiration comes from. I love them and all of the different things you can put inside them. Tacos are simple, delicious and the varieties are endless. Or, I guess we will find out. My goal: 52 different vegetarian and vegan tacos, plus some accompaniments. A different taco for week of the year, if you want. Plus, an easy way to work veggies and the vegetarian diet into your routine if it's something you're trying to incorporate. I'll be sharing some recipes and asking for feedback, but also sharing some photos, ideas and inspiration. Publisher, smublisher. I'll self-publish!

Black Bean & Cheese

One of my favorite taco places in Austin serves something that is so simple, it kind of surprises you it's so good. Warm slices of queso fresco, refried black beans and a green salsa. Amazing. I've recreated those same flavors for lunch on a dreary, rainy Saturday.

Taco #2

Restaurant: Spiral Diner & Bakery, Dallas

I made a quick trip to Dallas, TX last weekend to see family and friends, but also to do a little work. The weather was crummy and my trip was cut short due to complications at home, but I still managed to eat some wonderful things.

Top of the list was dinner at Spiral Diner and Bakery with Gabrielle and Kristina. Spiral Diner is a Fort Worth, TX institution that has opened a second location in the quickly gentrifying Oak Cliff neighborhood. Spiral Diner is vegan, but not in a bad way. On the trip there, I kept hinting for tacos and sure enough, they were on the menu and aptly called Bryan's Bodacious Tacos. Stuffed with spicy seitan and served with beans and guacamole, they were delicious. We also had extra guacamole with some chips to start and I sipped on watermelon cream soda from the fountain. Okay, I guzzled three glasses of it. It was good!

After, we headed to Sprinkles of Beverly Hills for cupcakes, more about that in the next post.

Spril Diner and Bakery

1101 N. Beckley

Dallas, TX 75203

214-948-4747

Lakehouse Tex-Mexicana

Labor Day at the Monahan Compound in Holland, MI was restful and a lot of fun, as always. I did some reading, card playing, swimming, walking, talking, joking, chatting and, of course, cooking. We ate like kings and queens because there were (too) many delicious things, including:

Sean's Passion Fruit Cocktail

1. Caramel brownies from Peggy
2. Tracy's Asian slaw
3. A wonderful meal of farmer's market treats prepared by Margaret and her crew
4. More M&Ms than anyone should eat
5. Blueberry Buckle
6. John's chipotle almonds
7. Ice cream from moi (I drove this year, so got to pack the ice cream maker. I think everyone was pleased.)
8. Sean's delicious, fruity and potent cocktails
9. Katie's guacamole and margaritas.

Avocado Enchiladas

The list could go on and on and on. John and I prepared a Tex-Mex inspired meal for Sunday evening and it was a lot of fun. We started with chips and salsa along with some little nibblies I constructed from cantaloupe and cucumber. For the main course, we had avocado enchiladas (John will share the recipe later, natch.) and a taco bar with three different fillings. Each was delicious, but after I kept thinking about the very simple mole. I guess John was too, because on the way home at the same moment, we both said, "I wonder if it freezes?" Dessert, well-deserved, was a tres leches birthday cake for Margaret.

Recipe: Spicy Lime Cucumber and Cantaloupe

I had been reading some articles about what people all over the world do with melon, and got the idea of combining my favorite melon with the crisp, green flavor of cucumber. It's simple, light and is the perfect thing to stimulate the palate before a wonderful Latin meal.

• 1 medium-sized cantaloupe
• 2 English cucumbers, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and seeded
• 2 large or 3 medium limes
• kosher or coarse salt
• chili powder
• toothpicks

1. Cut the cantaloupe into thick slices, then into 1 to 1 1/2 inch chunks.
2. Cut the cucumber into large, haphazard slices.
3. Assemble the cantaloupe and cucumber with toothpicks, one piece of each per toothpick.
4. Mix together (enough) salt with (enough) chili powder. I would say, 1 tbsp. of salt and add 1 tsp. of chili powder. Taste and add more chili powder if you like.
5. Cut the limes in half and squeeze juice over fruit. Sprinkle with chili-salt and serve.

Recipe: Black Bean Mole with Seitan

Mole is one of the traditional sauces of Mexico. It has as many interpretations as there are cooks in the kitchen. This one goes together simply, but is still delicious. You could use it over any type of protein. Simply prepare each separately and then combine until heated through. Does it freeze beautifully? I'll let you know. This recipe is from Emeril, believe it or don't.

• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 2 tablespoons pure ground Pasilla chili powder
• 1 cup cooked black beans (rinsed if using canned)
• 1 cup chopped tomatoes
• 1 cup vegetable stock
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed
• 2 teaspoons lime juice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt and pepper

In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, oregano, sesame seeds, and chili powder, stirring constantly for 3 minutes, and then place in a blender. Add the beans, tomatoes, vegetable stock, honey, cilantro, lime, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Puree until smooth. Now transfer the mole to a medium saucepan and heat until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Cook seitan, tofu, or whatever separately, then add to the sauce.

Recipe: Black Bean Salad or Taco Filling

This could be a simple salad or a scrumptious taco filling. The addition of pineapple gives it a new, tropical flavor and sets it apart from your everyday black bean salads.

• 2 cans black beans, drained, about 30 ounces
• 1 (15-ounce) can corn, drained
• 2 Roma tomatoes, diced
• 1/4 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/4 cup diced red onion
• 1/4 cup diced green onions
• 1/4 cup diced pineapple
• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves
• 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
• 4 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• Juice of 1/2 lime
• 3 tablespoons honey
• 1 tablespoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• Pinch ground cumin

Mix all of the ingredients together, then chill to let the flavors meld. Serve with corn tortillas, or just alone with the chips on the side.

Recipe: Potatoes Rajas (aka potatoes with onions and roasted red peppers in a creamy, cheesy sauce)

Did you get that? Potatoes AND onions AND roasted red peppers in a CREAMY, CHEESY SAUCE. Yes, it's as good as it sounds. Perfect in a corn tortilla, you could serve this just as a side if you wanted. Likewise, the rajas would be fine sans potato with a big bag of chips. I am picturing it now: me, sofa, rajas and chips. Perfection.

• 3 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 4 cups creamy rajas, recipe follows

Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until just tender, being careful not to overcook, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain, pat dry and spread in a single layer on a tray to cool. When ready to serve, heat the rajas in a medium saucepan over medium low heat, stirring frequently, just to heat through. Add the potatoes and stir occasionally until heated through. For potato and rajas tacos, toast 24 small Corn Tortillas and keep warm. For each taco, stack 2 tortillas and layer with the potato rajas mixture. Top with Salsa Fresca and an avocado slice and serve.

CREAMY RAJAS

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, halved and cut in 1/4-inch slices, lengthwise
• 1 16 oz jar roasted red pepper, drained and patted dry, sliced into thin slices.
  
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup grated Manchego or Monterey Jack cheese
• 2/3 cup grated Cotija, Romano or Parmesan cheese

In a large skillet heat the oil over medium heat. Saute the onions with the salt and pepper until they begin to wilt and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the julienned red peppers. Pour in the heavy cream, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook 4 minutes or until the cream begins to thicken. Stir in the grated cheeses and remove from the heat. Serve immediately.

Recipe: Tres Leches Cake

This recipe is simple, direct and constructed in a traditional manner: egg yolks and sugar are mixed together, whipped eggs whites and flour are folded in and the baked cake is doused with a mixture of milks. Topped with whipped cream, what could be better? Rosa said it was as good as her grandmother's, which is the ultimate compliment in my book.

• Unsalted butter, room temperature, for baking dish
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
• 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
• 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar

Preheat oven to 325°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs yolks and sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. In another bowl, beat egg whites to soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold whites into yolks until almost combined. Gently fold in flour (do not overmix).

Spread batter in prepared dish. Bake until golden and pulling away from sides of dish, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a small knife, scrape skin from top of cake; discard. Cool cake for 20 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the three milks; pour evenly over cake. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to one day.

To serve, prepare topping: In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream with sugar to soft peaks. Chill cake and cut into squares; serve topped with whipped cream.

Mangez!

Eat and Eat in Madison

Last weekend in Madison was filled, as always, with wonderful eats and delicious treats.

On Saturday we went to the farmer's market, which encircles the capital. There were amazing piles of vegetables, jams and jellies, and piles of baked goods. I bought a jar of blueberry jam and another of spiced tomato. I thought the tomato might be delicious on a grilled cheese with some Gouda or other delicious melty cheese. After our long walk around the square, we has a delicious meal at Himal Chuli, sitting outside on the sidewalk and watching the people go by. I started with a delicious dal, one of the best I have ever eaten, and finished with a seitan cooked in a spicy, yogurt sauce.

Of course, the most exciting part of the visit food wise was a trip to Vom Fass, Dave's new store, which means "from the keg." Vom Fass sells oils, vinegars, liqueurs and wines. You can taste and taste and taste all the varieties: fig vinegar, aged balsamic, grappa, citrus oils, nut oils and on and on and on. I bought some hazelnut oil that is more flavorful and delicious that any I have ever tasted. Vom Fass is poised to take the country by storm, so look for one near you sometime soon.

Missing Austin and craving tacos, we had lunch at Tex Tubb's Taco Palace--which our hosts described as a "faux Austin taqueria." I had a mushroom taco and a fried avocado--both delicious--and washed down with sangria. Pretty real to me. But what do I know about tacos? I live in Indiana...

It was Wisconsin, so of course there was cheese....glorious cheese!

And a little chocolate from the wonderful, amazing Belgian chocolatier, Leonidas.

Mangez!