Difference

Sometimes, things you think are the same are actually different.  Take for instance, the breakfast taco and breakfast burrito.  Anyone who has ever eaten a breakfast taco and a breakfast burrito can probably tell you: they aren't the same thing.  It's about proportion, scale and sometimes ingredients.  But some people, even Texas Monthly prescribes the difference to regional nomenclature, suggesting a breakfast taco and burrito are identical.  But just about any child (in Texas anyways) can tell you that, besides proportion and scale, a burrito is rolled, whereas a taco is folded.

Which brings me to migas.  And chilaquiles.  ¿Cuál es la diferencia?

The Epicurious Food Dictionary definition says:

chilaquiles [chee-lah-KEE-lehs]
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn TORTILLA strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green CHILES, cheese, CHORIZO and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like LASAGNA and baked.


The dictionary doesn't define migas, but Wikipedia offers the explanation for the Tex-Mex version, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese iterations:


migas [me-gus]
In Tex-Mex cuisine, migas [me-gus] are a traditional breakfast dish consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with strips of corn tortilla; the meatless version includes diced onions, sliced chile peppers, diced fresh tomatoes, and cheese, plus various spices and condiments (e.g. salsa or pico de gallo). Migas are typically served with refried beans, and corn or flour tortillas are used to enfold all of the ingredients into tacos. The tortilla strips can also be deep-fried until crunchy

And then some places serve chilaquiles with eggs.  So what is what?  Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I tend to think definitions are important.  We have so many words in the English language, many of them borrowed from other countries and cultures, so we have the opportunity to be very specific.  Like the difference between burrito and taco!  Blurring definitions is simply lazy, which probably makes me sound old.  You're probably hearing, "why don't they teach handwriting in the public schools anymore!"

Which brings me to: addiction.  And after my confession, perhaps you can tell me what I'm making?

After moving to West Texas, I quickly became addicted to Rosa's.  Located all across West Texas, and even as far away as Dallas, Rosa's makes pretty delicious fast, Mexican food--there is no reason to go to Taco Bell.  Never.  But, what makes Rosa's special is their tortillas, which are made fresh right there in each and every store.  You can watch.  And, that is how they elevate something as simple as a bean burrito (rolled!) with cheese and delicious salsa into a revelation: bean and cheese and salsa inside a warm, soft flour tortilla probably just pulled off of the line.  Seriously, I start thinking about it and my mouth begins to water.  I pass Rosa's and I start thinking about how long I can keep myself from it.

And their chips.  And their queso!  So good.  But then you end up with a bag full of leftover chips.  Chips that were made fresh in store and don't really keep.  Chips that are pretty stale the next morning.  What to do?  Migas/chilaquiles!

So here is easy, breezy morning migas/chilaquiles when you have leftover or stale chips, some salsa, a couple of eggs...and a little cheese.

Heat some vegetable oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add enough chips to cover the bottom of the pan in one layer.  The idea is to fry the chips so they crisp up again, so stir them and turn them until they start to get a little brown.

Meanwhile, crack and beat two eggs with a little salt.  Ready your salsa (I use about 1/3 cup), some garlic and fresh pico, about 1/4 cup if you have  it (at Rosa's, they have it, so I have it.).

Once the chips are lightly brown, take the pan off the heat and add the garlic (enough) and stir until it starts to cook.  Then, dump in the salsa and pico.  It's probably going to sizzle and splatter a little.  Return to the heat and cook until the salsa is reduced a little.  Lower the temperature, add the eggs and cook until they are scrambled right into that mess.

Top with cheese and a little more salsa and voila!  Migas.  Or chilaquiles with eggs.  Or something else, I don't know.  The bottom line is that it's an easy, delicious breakfast on Sunday morning and a perfect way to use up stale chips or tortillas with your favorite salsa.  This serves two!

Chirashizushi

When we were in Madison, WI this summer, we had a wonderful meal at Kushi Bar, a Japanese-inspired restaurant that served small bites, delicious cocktails and wonderful food. I loved what they called an inari rice bowl: delicious sushi rice studded with bits of inari, vegetables and other goodies. Inari are little packets of fried tofu which are usually stuffed with rice. They are sweet and savory at the same time, my favorite flavor combination. So I could eat them by the plate full.

After seeing several references to this idea of a sushi 'salad,' including in the new Moosewood cookbook, I learned this rice bowl is a common Japanese meal and perhaps the simplest version of sushi as it requires no rolling. In Japanese it is called, chirashizushi, which literally means, 'scattered sushi.' You can top the sushi rice with any manner of vegetable, tofu and condiments, but since inari is one of my favorite things to eat, I used that, broccoli, finely shredded carrot, toasted sesame seeds and nori. All of the delicious flavors of sushi in a bowl!

Recipe soon!

Recipe: Tortilla Pizzas

I guess say this a lot: this isn't so much as recipe as a suggestion, use tortillas (flour or whole wheat) to make easy pizzas topped with whatever you have one hand. Last week I made two:

• One classically topped with tomato sauce and cheese, plus some fresh basil
• Another topped with white gravy, mashed potatoes, Parmesan cheese & tarragon
  

Mashed potato pizza? What? Yes, it's great and not that original. I think we had some, or saw some, on a trip to Madison, WI a couple of years ago where we some great pizza at a place that presents some very interesting pizzas by the slice--but it didn't make the blog. Anyway, the one I made was delicious and a wonderful way to use up leftover mashed potatoes.

Here's how:

Recipe: Thin & Crispy Personal Pizzas

• Preheat over to 425 degrees.
• Spray both sides of the tortilla or wrap of your choice with cooking spray and place on a large, rimmed cookie sheet.
• Use the topping of your choice to adorn the tortillas.
• Bake for 15-25 minutes until the 'crust' is crispy, the cheese is melted and everything else is warm and bubbly.

Mangez!

Entertaining: Pizza Party

I often give tips on how to entertain at home, from simple dinners to carefully staged productions, and I would say I live that scheme in my own entertaining ventures. It's been a busy couple of weeks around the house and at work, but we wanted to have a few people over, to relax and enjoy some time with our Terre Haute friends. But, I didn't think I was up for a full-fledged day of shopping, cooking and arranging, so I devised an easy plan for a pizza night with ten friends.

The plan:

• Some simple nibbly-items to start (bread sticks, olives, little stuffed peppers, and pickly things)
• A big salad with thin slices of blanched asparagus and little, spring carrots in a spicy, citrus vinaigrette
• A selection of pizzas from La Familia de Jeshua across the street
• A killer dessert

This menu takes advantage of a natural resource, right at our doorstep: some of the best pizza I have every eaten. Anywhere. Hands down. I know, you're saying, "Some of the best pizza you've ever eaten is in Terre Haute?" Don't be a hater, I said the same exact thing. But, it's true. So the plan revolves around some purchased items to which I add a few homemade touches. Easy enough. The lesson is: use what you have and what you love. Great Chinese or Thai around the corner? Get several orders of your favorites, make a big salad and dessert, and call it done. Tamales by the boatload? Margaritas, chips and salsa and you are set. Wherever it is you love to eat, there is a way to incorporate that into your entertaining. Think semi-entertaining, but not semi-homemade with Sandra Lee. (Ugh.)

Just because you are ordering pizza, doesn't mean you can't set the scene. I realize I went
a little overboard, but I was just trying to be inspirational to you, dear reader.

Since I was planning on the essence of simplicity for dinner, I knew I would have time to spend on a great dessert. This idea came to me on the long drive to Omaha over Easter: tiramisu sundaes. What? Bear with me: the flavors and concept of tiramisu, but in a sundae form. This requires the creation of two ice cream/gelato recipes; some ladyfingers; chocolate sauce; and whipped cream. I think I was recalling the frozen tiramisu Michael made years ago and was thinking about how I could use my ice cream maker to do something similar. The results? Divine. The recipe for marscapone ice cream is something I developed and the coffee gelato is variation on a recipe I use for chocolate. Either would be good on their own or with a couple of cookies on the side, but the combination of the two with some homemade chocolate sauce was....killer.

Recipe: Marscapone Ice Cream

I developed this recipe using a couple of others I've enjoyed. The marscapone makes a rich, indulgent ice cream that is just amazing all by itself. You could also layer in some jam or pureed fruit before you ripen the mixture in the freezer, but as I said, "just amazing all by itself."

16 ounces marscapone, room temperature
1 1⁄2 cup sugar
2 cups milk
2 tsp vanilla
a pinch of salt
1 cup heavy cream

Combine the marscapone, sugar, milk, vanilla and salt in blender. Process until smooth. Depending on the size of your carafe, you may have to do this in two portions. Stir in the heavy cream and chill completely. Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.

Recipe: Coffee Gelato
This gelato is rich and has a strong, coffee flavor. Use less if you want a more subtle result, and remember to use decaf if you're serving it late in the evening and are worried about keeping your guests up all night. The recipe I used before, which I couldn't find, utilized whole coffee beans which are steeped in the cream to develop the flavor. This version is much simpler and just as delicious.

3 cups milk
2 cups half-and-half
1/3 cup instant espresso powder or instant coffee powder
4 tablespoons cornstarch
1 1/2 cups sugar

In a small bowl whisk 1/2 cup of the milk, scalded, into the espresso powder or instant coffee, whisking until the powder is dissolved. In another small bowl stir 1/2 cup of the remaining milk into the cornstarch, stirring until the cornstarch is dissolved. In a large heavy saucepan combine the remaining 2 cups milk, 2 cups half-and-half and the sugar and bring the mixture just to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Stir the cornstarch mixture, whisk it into the milk mixture, and simmer the mixture, whisking, for 2 minutes. Whisk in the coffee mixture. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, chill it, covered, until it is cold, and freeze it in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer's instructions.

To make sundaes:

Add a scoop of marscapone ice cream and a scoop of coffee gelato to each individual serving dish; place two or three ladyfingers on the side; pass your favorite chocolate sauce, homemade whipped cream, and cacao nibs, allowing your guests their choice.

Recipe: Stuffed Pickled Peppers

The other thing I made (besides the salad, which is more assembled than made) was my favorite little stuffed peppers. I like to serve these as part of tapas menu, but they make a good starter for just about any Mediterranean menu. You can usually find the little peppers on the salad bar at good groceries, or jarred with the olives and other pickly things. Whole Foods often has a red and orange variety, which makes for a colorful presentation.

8 oz. of cream cheese at room temperature
8 oz. of goat cheese at room temperature
2 tbsp of butter at room temperature
1 clove of garlic, finely minced
1 to 2 tbsp of half-and-half or heavy whipping cream
24-30 red, Peppadew peppers (rinsed, drained and dried with a paper towel)

Using a hand mixer, cream together all of the ingredients through 1 tbsp. of the cream until smooth and light. Add the additional tablespoon of cream, if necessary. Place the mixture into a large, sealed bag. (A one-gallon bag works best as you want more bag than contents. Alternately, you can use a pastry bag with a tip, if you prefer.) Snip one corner of the bag and pipe the filling into each little pepper. Chill until the cheese has firmed up, at least an hour, but overnight if you wish. Serve.

Salty, buttery marcona almonds are a great accompnaniment to the peppers.

Mangez!

Economical

Everyone is feeling the pinch these days, so I thought I would post one of my favorite and most economical meals: mujadara or, Lebanese lentils and rice. This is a dish I have blogged about before, it's the Friday special at Byblos in Wichita, KS and I ordered it at every opportunity. But, other than one restaurant in Chicago, it's not really something you see on menus at Middle Eastern places. It's kind of one of those basic, homey dishes that is prepared for family, but not considered nice enough for restaurants or big events. But I would like to point out that American's have a yen for la cucina povera and have explored it from Italy (polenta) to the Deep South (greens, chess pie, etc.), so bring on the Lebanese version and let's all dig in.

It's very basic: onion, garlic and cumin are cooked until soft and fragrant; lentils and broth are added and simmered until the pulses begin to soften; rice is added and the whole mixture is simmered until the liquid is absorbed and the whole thing becomes a delicious pot of delicious-ness. Really, I know it probably just sounds 'alright' to you, but the whole is so much greater than the parts. In some versions, the lentils and rice are cooked only until tender and retain their individuality. My preference is for both to begin to breakdown and resemble something more akin to refried beans.

Leftovers are great warmed and topped with a fried egg. (Yes, I will put a fried egg on top of anything and call it improved.) Or, you can roll it up in a pita or tortilla for a quick lunch on the go.

Confession: traditionally, mujadara is served with crispy, fried onions on top. I'm lazy and use French's Fried Onions. I know it's a little trashy, but I am a little trashy and expect that the can of French's Onions I bought appreciates not ending up on a green bean casserole for Thanksgiving. Not that there is anything wrong with green bean casserole.

Recipe: Mujadara
This recipe can be doubled or trippled easily. I usually measure mine out based on the amount of lentils I have. I usually use the entire bag of lentil and an equal amount of rice, happily consuming the leftovers for breakfast (yes!), lunch and dinner for days.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons ground cumin
4 cups vegetable broth
3/4 cup dried lentils, rinsed, picked over
3/4 cup long-grain brown rice (parboiled, as below)
Salt and pepper to taste.

For rice: In a small saucepan, bring salted water to boil. Add rice and lower heat to a simmer, cook uncovered for 15 minutes. Drain water and let rice sit until ready to add to lentils.

In a large saucepan or stickpot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat then add onion and saute until softened. About 5-6 minutes. Add garlic and cumin, stirring constantly for 1-2 minutes while the garlic and spices become frangrant. Add the vegetable broth and lentil, stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, for ten minutes. Stir occasionally. Add the rice and 1 tsp. salt, and simmer for 15-20 or until the liquid is absorbed. Test for doneness and seasoning, adding more salt and freshly ground pepper.

Let cool slightly and topped with fried onions (from a can or your own if you are less lazy than I am), fresh plain yogurt and tomatoes if you wish.

Lakehouse Tex-Mexicana

Labor Day at the Monahan Compound in Holland, MI was restful and a lot of fun, as always. I did some reading, card playing, swimming, walking, talking, joking, chatting and, of course, cooking. We ate like kings and queens because there were (too) many delicious things, including:

Sean's Passion Fruit Cocktail

1. Caramel brownies from Peggy
2. Tracy's Asian slaw
3. A wonderful meal of farmer's market treats prepared by Margaret and her crew
4. More M&Ms than anyone should eat
5. Blueberry Buckle
6. John's chipotle almonds
7. Ice cream from moi (I drove this year, so got to pack the ice cream maker. I think everyone was pleased.)
8. Sean's delicious, fruity and potent cocktails
9. Katie's guacamole and margaritas.

Avocado Enchiladas

The list could go on and on and on. John and I prepared a Tex-Mex inspired meal for Sunday evening and it was a lot of fun. We started with chips and salsa along with some little nibblies I constructed from cantaloupe and cucumber. For the main course, we had avocado enchiladas (John will share the recipe later, natch.) and a taco bar with three different fillings. Each was delicious, but after I kept thinking about the very simple mole. I guess John was too, because on the way home at the same moment, we both said, "I wonder if it freezes?" Dessert, well-deserved, was a tres leches birthday cake for Margaret.

Recipe: Spicy Lime Cucumber and Cantaloupe

I had been reading some articles about what people all over the world do with melon, and got the idea of combining my favorite melon with the crisp, green flavor of cucumber. It's simple, light and is the perfect thing to stimulate the palate before a wonderful Latin meal.

• 1 medium-sized cantaloupe
• 2 English cucumbers, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and seeded
• 2 large or 3 medium limes
• kosher or coarse salt
• chili powder
• toothpicks

1. Cut the cantaloupe into thick slices, then into 1 to 1 1/2 inch chunks.
2. Cut the cucumber into large, haphazard slices.
3. Assemble the cantaloupe and cucumber with toothpicks, one piece of each per toothpick.
4. Mix together (enough) salt with (enough) chili powder. I would say, 1 tbsp. of salt and add 1 tsp. of chili powder. Taste and add more chili powder if you like.
5. Cut the limes in half and squeeze juice over fruit. Sprinkle with chili-salt and serve.

Recipe: Black Bean Mole with Seitan

Mole is one of the traditional sauces of Mexico. It has as many interpretations as there are cooks in the kitchen. This one goes together simply, but is still delicious. You could use it over any type of protein. Simply prepare each separately and then combine until heated through. Does it freeze beautifully? I'll let you know. This recipe is from Emeril, believe it or don't.

• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 2 tablespoons pure ground Pasilla chili powder
• 1 cup cooked black beans (rinsed if using canned)
• 1 cup chopped tomatoes
• 1 cup vegetable stock
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed
• 2 teaspoons lime juice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt and pepper

In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, oregano, sesame seeds, and chili powder, stirring constantly for 3 minutes, and then place in a blender. Add the beans, tomatoes, vegetable stock, honey, cilantro, lime, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Puree until smooth. Now transfer the mole to a medium saucepan and heat until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Cook seitan, tofu, or whatever separately, then add to the sauce.

Recipe: Black Bean Salad or Taco Filling

This could be a simple salad or a scrumptious taco filling. The addition of pineapple gives it a new, tropical flavor and sets it apart from your everyday black bean salads.

• 2 cans black beans, drained, about 30 ounces
• 1 (15-ounce) can corn, drained
• 2 Roma tomatoes, diced
• 1/4 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/4 cup diced red onion
• 1/4 cup diced green onions
• 1/4 cup diced pineapple
• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves
• 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
• 4 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• Juice of 1/2 lime
• 3 tablespoons honey
• 1 tablespoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• Pinch ground cumin

Mix all of the ingredients together, then chill to let the flavors meld. Serve with corn tortillas, or just alone with the chips on the side.

Recipe: Potatoes Rajas (aka potatoes with onions and roasted red peppers in a creamy, cheesy sauce)

Did you get that? Potatoes AND onions AND roasted red peppers in a CREAMY, CHEESY SAUCE. Yes, it's as good as it sounds. Perfect in a corn tortilla, you could serve this just as a side if you wanted. Likewise, the rajas would be fine sans potato with a big bag of chips. I am picturing it now: me, sofa, rajas and chips. Perfection.

• 3 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 4 cups creamy rajas, recipe follows

Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until just tender, being careful not to overcook, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain, pat dry and spread in a single layer on a tray to cool. When ready to serve, heat the rajas in a medium saucepan over medium low heat, stirring frequently, just to heat through. Add the potatoes and stir occasionally until heated through. For potato and rajas tacos, toast 24 small Corn Tortillas and keep warm. For each taco, stack 2 tortillas and layer with the potato rajas mixture. Top with Salsa Fresca and an avocado slice and serve.

CREAMY RAJAS

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, halved and cut in 1/4-inch slices, lengthwise
• 1 16 oz jar roasted red pepper, drained and patted dry, sliced into thin slices.
  
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup grated Manchego or Monterey Jack cheese
• 2/3 cup grated Cotija, Romano or Parmesan cheese

In a large skillet heat the oil over medium heat. Saute the onions with the salt and pepper until they begin to wilt and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the julienned red peppers. Pour in the heavy cream, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook 4 minutes or until the cream begins to thicken. Stir in the grated cheeses and remove from the heat. Serve immediately.

Recipe: Tres Leches Cake

This recipe is simple, direct and constructed in a traditional manner: egg yolks and sugar are mixed together, whipped eggs whites and flour are folded in and the baked cake is doused with a mixture of milks. Topped with whipped cream, what could be better? Rosa said it was as good as her grandmother's, which is the ultimate compliment in my book.

• Unsalted butter, room temperature, for baking dish
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
• 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
• 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar

Preheat oven to 325°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs yolks and sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. In another bowl, beat egg whites to soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold whites into yolks until almost combined. Gently fold in flour (do not overmix).

Spread batter in prepared dish. Bake until golden and pulling away from sides of dish, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a small knife, scrape skin from top of cake; discard. Cool cake for 20 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the three milks; pour evenly over cake. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to one day.

To serve, prepare topping: In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream with sugar to soft peaks. Chill cake and cut into squares; serve topped with whipped cream.

Mangez!

Simple, Delicious Pasta

I created this recipe a while back, inspired by what was left in the pantry. The sauce is creamy, nutty and delicious.

Recipe: Pasta with Tomatoes and Garbanzo Sauce

1 16-oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
1 24-oz can diced tomatoes, do not drain
2 cloves garlic, crushed or coarsely chopped
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
2 tbsp. olive oil (lemon, if you have it)
1/4 cup slivered almonds
Salt and Pepper to taste.
12 oz. penne or rotinni
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Heat a large pot of boiling water and cook the pasta according to the package directions.

In a food processor, combine the garbanzo beans, garlic, red pepper, olive oil and almonds. Drain the tomato liquid into the processor. Process for 2-3 minutes or until a creamy, sauce-like consistency is reached. Add additional water if necessary, but you can wait and add more water when you toss it with the pasta.

Put the sauce in a large bowl and add the diced tomatoes and Parmesan cheese. Toss to combine. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta to the sauce and tomatoes, tossing with reserved pasta water if necessary to thin the sauce. Top each plate with additional Parmesan cheese at the table.

Serves 4-6 people.