I discovered recently that my family name is Swiss, not German. I know, my last name sounds German, but it's actually a German pronunciation of a French-Swiss name due to the fact my forbears went to part of what is now Germany for half a generation before emigrating to the colonies in 1731. With Germans. It's been a complete paradigm shift and entirely changed how I think about myself. I used to think my rigidness wasn't just a matter of my bourgeois, middle class upbringing, but part of my Germanic birthright. And I explained the swarthy complexion of my family (which I don't share) as 'Black Dutch.' But no more.Now, I understand better my obsession with chocolate. (The Swiss eat more chocolate per person than any other country: 25 lbs per year.) And my affinity for cheese. Plus my obsession with fine time pieces, numbered bank accounts and protecting the Pope. And my neutrality. Suddenly my neutrality makes so much more sense.
But, I understood German food. Or thought I did, perhaps I was wrong. Meat and processed meat. Someone somewhere said the sausage was the heighth of German engineering. Perhaps, perhaps not. I knew as a vegetarian it really wasn't for me, but I do still enjoy spaetzle with butter or cream sauce and of course good German beer.
But what do Swizz people eat? I did a little research, and of course came upon the most basic: fondue. They do do the fondue. So I decided to throw a casual little fondue dinner, which is a fun and easy way to entertain.
Recipe: Cider Fondue
I have at least four vintage cookbooks on Fondue, but I adapted this recipe from one I saw in Bon Appetit magazine. It's really delicious and we consumed the entire pot. For dippers, I offered two different kinds of vegetarian sausage (Tofurky Kielbasa and Field Roast Smoked Apple Sage); cubes of bread; asparagus (which isn't really a great idea); roasted mushrooms; steamed new potatoes; roasted fingerling potatoes; and Granny Smith apples. Dessert was my favorite chocolate mousse with almond whipped cream.
6 cups coarsely grated Gruyère cheese (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 cups coarsely grated Emmenthaler cheese (about 1/2 pound)
3 tablespoon cornstarch
2 cup hard apple cider
2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
4 tablespoons brandy
Toss the cheeses and cornstarch together in a big yellow bowl to coat. Bring the hard cider and vinegar just to simmer in medium saucepan over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium low (mixture should be barely simmering). Add a handful of cheese to simmering cider mixture. Stir until cheese is melted sort of melted: you really have to achieve a certain ratio of cheese to cider before it actually begins to melt to a smooth consistency. Add remaining cheese one handful at a time, stirring until melted between additions. Increase heat to medium and cook until fondue begins to bubble, stirring constantly. Stir in brandy.
Transfer fondue to the fondue pot. Set fondue pot atop stand; carefully light candle or canned heat burner according to your product directions.
Now, about fondue pots:Crate and Barrel have several to choose from on-line. I have the model they sell from Bodum which I highly recommend. It is composed of a large metal container which can be used for oil-based fondues when you are cooking meaty things. Likewise, it has a glass fondue container which you suspend into the larger metal one filled with water. This is great because your fondue is warmed in a hot bath, rather than having the direct flame on the pot. But, at the same time you don't end up with that little bit of crusty cheese which is considered a delicacy by the Swiss and divided amongst the guests.
I also have a smaller, electric fondue pot from Oster. It's a vintage model and I love it, especially for chocolate fondues. And even for simply melting chocolate. These can be found (as well as conventional fondue models) at the thrift store or on eBay. You really need a pot that is electric or uses a gel or cannister of fuel. The smaller ones which use a candle will not keep your cheese warm. Cold cheese fondue? Faux pas, n'est-ce pas?
