With Relish

May 15, 2013

Now that charcuterie, cupcakes and punch have been sufficiently revived, let us set our sites on...the relish tray! A recent estate sale visit reminded me of how ubiquitous the relish tray once was in American culture. While you might think that crudités is the same thing as a relish tray, these cousins are not exactly interchangeable--in my mind anyway.

Crudites are raw or par-cooked vegetables I usually serve with a sauce for dipping. They are what is best and most fresh from the market or grocer. A relish tray, is similar in that it may contain some raw or fresh vegetables, but it will also probably have some stuffed olives, home pickled vegetable and several other things from a jar. You might have some celery that has been stuffed with pimento cheese or some other kind of spread. Perhaps some cucumbers and vinegar?

I think we just about always had a relish tray when Mildred was serving dinner. It was never anything fancy, but I know she always had a small bowl of the cucumbers with onion, some raw spring onions I only remember her eating and...I can't remember quite what else. My dad usually puts together a relish platter when we're dining there and my brother mocks my sister-in-law, saying her families' relish tray is just black olives. My new relish dishes inspired me to put together two relish trays, perfect for cocktails or a glass of wine, but created for a make-your-own-sandwich buffet we had at work.

When assembling, I think the main purpose of the relish tray should be something refreshing--bright, astringent flavors that wake up the taste buds before dinner. Variety. If you need inspiration, pick up any 1950s cookbook and just flip through the photos in the appetizers section. For mine, I used:

Sun-dried tomato stuffed olives
Carrot sticks (not baby-cut carrots!)
Pickled asparagus
Garlic gherkins
Celery sticks stuffed with horseradish cream cheese
Dill pickle spears
Pickled okra
Black olives

Friendly Little Dinner

March 17, 2013

Entertaining isn't something we do as frequently as we used to, probably because we are still making friends here and also because work and life in general is very busy. I remember a time when we had friends over for dinner at least once a week, sometimes for last-minute dinner parties but other times for overly-detailed celebrations. Now, we probably only host two or three times a year, so when we do, you know I pull out every stop; consider the use of every dish, plate, sherbet or goblet; and pour over every recipe that has been waiting in the wings.

When our friends Gab and Kristina came in from Boston, MA and Dallas, TX for a quick trip to Marfa and Fort Davis, I put a lot of thought into each of the six courses (yes, six), not just what I would serve, but also in what I would serve each culinary creation...food photos courtesy of Gab, one of our guests!

To start:
Mustard-marscarpone spread with toasts, sesame sticks, bread sticks, assorted olives and almonds served in the little black lotus bowls with the black tidbit plates.

First course:
Double-baked three-cheese soufflé served in individual cast iron skillets with a white, Rosenthal under plate.

Salad course:
Butter lettuce with a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on white, Rosenthal salad plates.

Main course:
Homemade bucatini with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese in the oddly shaped pasta bowls.

Intermezzo:
Basil gelato in the chartreuse Russel Wright sherbets.

Dessert:
Easy candy bar tart on the patterned, Rosenthal dessert plates.

If I say so myself, everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time talking and catching up over the course of the meal. The only thing I felt like need some tweaking was the salad dressing, which was a little on the sour side--but the citrus, red pepper and oregano were a great flavor combination and will probably become something else in the kitchen. The gelato and pomodoro were of my own devising, so there are a couple of recipes for you to try.

Recipe: Basil Gelato

I use corn starch to thicken my gelato, although many recipes use eggs instead. This recipe is the perfect thing to bridge an Italian main course and dessert; its first taste is sweet, which is replaced with a strong herbaceous flavor and ends with the spicy note of basil. Affected? Yes, but effective.

2 cups basil leaves
3 cups milk
3 tbsp corn starch
¾ cup sugar
1 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. salt

Combine basil, 2 1/2 cups milk, sugar, zest and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a two quart saucepan and heat gently until sugar dissolves. In the meantime, combine the remaining milk with the cornstarch and whisk to form a slurry. Continuing heating the basil-milk mixture until it begins to steam; stir in the slurry and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened. Remove from heat and pour through a fine strainer; chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or for best performance with your ice cream maker, overnight. Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves.

Makes about one quart of gelato.

Recipe: Pasta al Pomodoro

Everyone has a favorite red sauce and it may come from a jar--there are so many good-quality brands out there it is easy to find several you like. Lately, I've been trying to find my own perfect recipe and have tried every trick, idea or suggestion. My version combines slowly cooked onion, garlic, tomato sauce and great canned tomatoes to make a delicious sauce. My secret ingredient? Fennel pollen. My secret tool? Using the immersion blender for a smooth, delicious sauce.

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes or whole tomatoes, use a very good brand
1 8-ounce can of tomato sauce
Pinch of fennel pollen
Kosher salt
3 large fresh basil sprigs

To assemble:
12 ounces bucatini or spaghetti
2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving. You'll want more!

Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2-4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute more. Increase heat to medium, add tomatoes, sauce and season lightly with kosher salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens a little, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil sprigs, cover and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour. Remove basil, purée with an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender, until very smooth.

When you're ready to serve, bring water to a boil in a large. Season with salt; add spaghetti or bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally, until not quite tender. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water, then drain pasta.

Bring pasta back to a simmer, add pasta and some of the pasta water; cook, stirring, until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove pan from heat; add butter and cheese; toss until cheese melts. Serve with more cheese, if desired. It will be desired!

Serves fours. The sauce can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd or to have some to save for later. I added chopped green and kalamata olives, four extra cloves of minced garlic and 1 tsp. of red pepper flakes to my leftovers for a spicy, easy 'puttanesca.'

How Very Entertaining

December 16, 2012

We haven't done a lot of entertaining since moving west. Work is always busy, plus there is a lot of travel and then we don't have many friends here yet. But, we had a few friends over for cocktails on Saturday night and it was very enjoyable. We had gone to the effort to decorate for the holidays, so it was nice to share the season plus fun to plan the food and service. Of course, that meant digging into storage, because a lot of the entertaining accoutrement is still in boxes due to lack of space. Or maybe it is due to having too much stuff!

Regardless, it was fun and I planned a simple menu with a few favorites to share. For drinks, we had wine, a seasonal beer flavored with ginger and pomegranate Manhattans. Now, I love a classic Manhattan, preferably on the rocks--but I will also enjoy them straight up. However, one Christmas when a blizzard trapped us in Omaha, I took solace in the delicious pomegranate Manhattans served in our hotel bar. The secret? Pama liqueur which you simply substitute for the sweet vermouth. You can garnish with fresh pomegranate if you like or stick to the traditional cherry and orange twist. Very festive for the holidays!

Recipe: Pomegranate Manhattan
3 parts bourbon
1 part Pama liqueur
1 dash Angustora bitters per drink

Combine in a pitcher, stir gently to combine. Serve over ice garnished with a cherry and twist of orange. It's a simple proportion that allows you to make a little or a lot. I like Weller's bourbon, but use what you like.

For eats, I pulled out some standards: Mushroom Pecan Pâté, Baked Artichoke Hearts and Hot Onion Soufflé to which I added a selection of cheeses, almonds, olives, my favorite bread sticks, crackers and some pickly things including dad's pickled okra, little cornichons and some carrot slices I made. I just realized that although I have mentioned it repeatedly in posts, I've never shared the recipe for my Hot Onion Soufflé here, so I'm doing that now. It's a favorite and couldn't be simpler. I've tweaked the recipe a little over the years, but this is where it currently stands.

Recipe: Hot Onion Soufflé
20 oz. of cream cheese, softened (That's two and half 8 oz. packages, what you do with the rest of that third 8 oz. package is between you and your god.)
4 oz. of plain goat cheese, softened
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
Pinch of salt
2 cups grated Parmesan cheese (get the good stuff) plus a little more for the top
14 oz. bag of frozen, chopped onion, thawed and water squeezed out in a colander or dishtowel

Okay, first you're asking yourself: why would I buy frozen, chopped onion? Can't I just use fresh? Well, yes, of course you can, but that is the beauty of this delicious crowd-pleaser: you don't even have to chop onions!

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees. In a big yellow bowl, combine the cream cheese, goat cheese, mayonnaise, onion powder, garlic powder and salt. Mix with a wooden spoon until combined. Now you may think, "I'll just use my silicone spatula to mix this up," but save yourself the trouble and use a wooden spoon like I said. It's not difficult to mix this together, but using the right tool specified by the author does make it a little easier. Once that is smooth and creamy, add the onion and Parmesan cheese and continue to mix until well combined. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Now here is where you have to make a decision: conventially, I usually put this in a glass pie plate, top it with more grated Parmesan cheese and bake it for about 20 minutes or until the top is golden and the entire thing is a bubbly, lava pit of creamy cheese. But, if you're planning on serving it at a cocktail party with several waves of people, you can divide it between two dishes as I did with the small cast-iron skillets above to have one on the table and other in reserve. Either way, you want a dish that is on the shallow side to increase the ratio of delicious browned topping to creamy, molten interior.

At this point, you're thinking, "This all sounds delicious and simple, but what do I serve it with?" And that my friend is the easiest thing of all: Hot Onion Soufflé is good on anything, from crackers to toast points. But, I have learned by serving it with anything and everything, it is absolutely best on...Frito scoops. Yes, Fritos. Perhaps you think you're too classy to serve Fritos at a cocktail party?! You're a foodie and you would never serve a dip made with cream cheese that also contains powdered onion and garlic the author is suggesting you serve with some chip you can buy anywhere and isn't even some artisnal item from a small-batch producer in northern California. Well, I am not too classy. And let me tell you something, your guests aren't either and they will eat every bit of this stuff WITH the Fritos and lick it off their fingers. Promise.

If, and I repeat, IF there is any leftover, it is just as good cold the next day from the fridge while you are doing the dishes. Heck, you might even think of cutting the crust off some bread and making tea sandwiches with it. Or just a grilled cheese you can dip in tomato soup. Or a Hot Onion Soufflé quesadilla?! You can't go wrong.

Happy holidays! Enjoy your time with family and friends...

Cold Cold Cold

April 29, 2012

I don't know about there, but here it is already hot. How hot? It reached 104 on Wednesday and it isn't even May. I know, I know: "it's a dry heat." That does make a difference, but it is still hot! So my thoughts turn to ice and cold drinks and refreshing cocktails. My top five for summer?

Wild Sweet Orange, cold brewed and iced.
Pimm's Cup, my go-to summer cocktail.
My favorite sangria recipe.
Mojitos for a crowd.
A Tincho, effervescent New Age white wine served over ice with a squeeze of lime.

What are you going to serve them in? Here are some great drink servers for summer...

West Elm has a recycled glass container that is generous in size and has a metal spout.

CB2's beverage dispenser has a sweet organic shape that would look great on any table.

Maybe you already a dispenser, but this cute little stand from

Crate and Barrel could make it more counter friendly.

Or get this dispenser from Williams-Sonoma which has a built-in stand!

Now, get your summer drink on!

Mustard

April 18, 2012

When you hear mustard, you probably think of a squeeze of bright yellow on top of your hot dog at the ballpark. It is, at the same time, one of the most common and exotic condiments you may have in your fridge. Mustard has been used in the cuisines of cultures around the world since ancient times, but it was the Romans who mixed it with a base form of vinegar to create the first 'prepared' mustard. At its most basic, mustard is made from the seeds of the mustard plant that have been ground and mixed with vinegar and other spices; it can be subtle or bring tears to your eyes. Classic yellow mustard is made from a very fine ground of seeds, while Dijon and other coarse ground mustards have more of the whole seeds in them. You can, of course, buy mustard prepared, or in the seed or powder form.

I guess I am a little obsessed with mustard; it's my favorite condiment and always has been. Even as a child, I preferred it's spicy flavor with my sandwiches. Mayonnaise (or Miracle Whip, as was served in our house) was great in chicken salad and ketchup was a must for fries, but if it was a burger or sandwich, I wanted mustard. But don't relegate mustard to just your lunch, it has many other fantastic uses in the kitchen, bringing its bright, piquant flavor to an array of dishes.

1. First of all, let's talk vinaigrette. A tablespoon of mustard added at the beginning of your preparation helps to bind and emulsify the dressing, plus adds tangy flavor. I prefer to use a whole grain mustard for vinaigrettes, and my go-to is actually a hot and spicy variety from Woeber's:

They have been making mustards for over 100 years and sell a variety of styles and flavors. I am always looking at different mustards at the store and just found another from them, Mister Mustard, which is smooth and hot, plus has a super cute label.

2. Sauces. A mustard dill sauces is a classic for fish, but could be used to lift any protein from the simple to the superb. And mustard is often the hidden star of many barbecue sauces. I would say that mustard is the secret ingredient in Mildred's Bakes Beans (plus loads of garlic) that keep them from being simpering and sweet--and it's the recipe I'm always asked for.

3. With potatoes. Yes, everyone loves a creamy potato salad, but I bet you can talk people into loving a mustardy potato salad! Just say, "it's potato salad" and let them figure out why it's so delicious on their own.

4. A dipping sauce. Sure, any mustard is great for dipping your corn dog in, but this mustard sauce will be delicious with just about anything from nuggets to meatballs, fried tofu to sweet potato fries. I've served it at more than one party...

Recipe: Apricot Dipping Sauce

1/2 cup apricot preserves

1 tbsp. water

2 tsp. lime juice

1 tsp. Dijon or coarse-ground mustard

1/4 tsp. minced fresh ginger

Puree all ingredients in a blender until smooth. Simply and delicious.

5. When I say, 'bloody,' you say? Mary! The Cajun Bloody Mary is just one in a long list of drink recipes at Saveur, but it delicious and again mustard is the supporting actress that makes it so successful.

6. Mustard caviar. What?! It's not really caviar, but in this recipe, mustard seeds are plumped in vinegar so they pop in the mouth like caviar, adding instant zing to a recipe. I haven't made this yet, but it is the list to try and I am imagining it as a capricious garnish to my favorite deviled egg recipe, which of course is made with mustard--and dill! Or perhaps with my mushroom pâté?

So whatever you're making, think about how a little bit of mustard might add just the right touch to you recipe...

Gadgetry

February 21, 2012

Who doesn't love a gadget for the kitchen or something new for the table? You know from reading bYb as well as its sister blog, Manic Thrift Store Shopper that I love nothing more! A kitchen tool that does only one thing? Yes, please. A dish specific to serving a particular food? Thank you! A pot that I only use once a year, but use it to prepare something exquisite? Why not?! Some tools/toys are better than others, but I always enjoy adding something new to the arsenal...

With the Kitchenaid came...the world of Kitchenaid accessories! It's a slippery slope. I quickly added the glass mixing bowl (for aesthetic as well as usability reasons) and the pasta extruded. Fresh bucatini? Easy and ready in a matter of moments. I'm sure, despite the naysayers, it will pay for itself. Plus it was technically a gift...

As was this magnificent sugar bowl. Yes, that's right: sugar bowl. I was shopping with my friend David in Houston when we came across it at a vintage store. He remembered how enamored I was with it and sent it as a very generous birthday gift. I have never seen anything like and I cannot wait for you to come over for coffee and sweet rolls, so that I can serve you sugar from this magnificent bowl!

And speaking of coffee, I picked up this great milk frother/steamer on a recent trip. I hate putting cold milk in my coffee and now I never will! I will be very happy to serve you a fancy coffee with some hot foamy goodness to which you can add sugar from my fly sugar bowl! Or steamy cocoa? Easy, breezy with the touch of a button.

And finally, I got a handy little tortilla warmer that reminds me of one of my favorite designers, Alexander Girard. Supposedly, 45 seconds in the microwave and it will keep the little guys warm for up to an hour! I'll report back on how it works...

White Lady

October 29, 2011

A couple of weeks ago, I finally had the pleasure of entertaining in the new place. It was relaxed and casual, with dinner served on the terrace on a beautiful West Texas evening. I wanted something simple, so I opted for Italian, utilizing some of my favorite recipes which are easy fare, but not your basic spaghetti with meatless balls.

To start, I served some olives, breadsticks (HEB sells the brand above from Liguria in three different flavors, but you can find them here. Addicted!) and these delicious artichokes which are similar to a stuffed version, but oh so much easier.

Next was one of my favorite salads for fall: Dama Bianca. This salad is very simple, but combines ingredients in a way that makes them special--and delicious! Fennel, celery hearts and fresh mozzarella dressed with lemon juice and olive oil combine to create the "white lady," an Italian classic.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
What makes this simple salad so delicious is the care you take in preparing the ingredients. Unless you're a master chef who can slice celery and fennel like it is butter, it's best to use a mandolin as paper thin slices of both take on a different quality than thicker slices. Likewise, tearing the cheese gives it the perfect, feathery texture to complement the crunch of the vegetables. Traditionally, this salad is made with the female fennel bulbs, which are fat and wide and considered to be sweeter than the male.

2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, but reserve a few of the fronds for garnish
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves reserved and stalks thinly sliced
1 (1/2-pound) ball buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Halve fennel lengthwise and remove the core, then thinly slice crosswise with a mandolin or shaver, then layer in a large salad bowl. Top with celery and mozzarella. Whisk together zest, juice, oil, sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and drizzle over salad. Garnish with the celery leaves and fennel fronds.

For the main course, I served a pasta dressed with a pea and walnut pesto then tossed with some white beans. This sauce is delicious anytime of year made with frozen peas, but is especially good with fresh peas in the spring. My published recipe is vegan, but I used Parmesan cheese since it was dinner for company.

Dessert was my best chocolate gelato recipe with amaretti cookies crumbled over the top. Of course I had a small bowl to nibble on the side. No one wanted coffee, so we sipped small glasses of Weller's bourbon, which has always been a favorite I could never find in Indiana.

It was a fun evening and wonderful to share food with friends.

Lovely Dinner

December 9, 2009

I rarely repeat table decor, but this is one of my favorite place settings:
a Metlox Shoreline dinner plate;
a blue salad plate with a white glaze underneath that shows on the rim from Target;
and a small white bowl from Crate and Barrel that I think look like Baroque pearls.

We had the opportunity to entertain friends in Terre Haute the weekend after Thanksgiving, in addition to some out-of-town guests they brought along. It was a very fun evening and I did a Spanish-inspired dinner with my favorite potato soup--it has forty cloves of garlic in the broth. Roasted, of course!

There were some restrictions though: one guest was gluten-sensitive and another was allergic to olive oil. Luckily, my menu was fairly gluten free. I just substituted a gluten-friendly flour blend in the Manchego pie (it only has a small amount as a thickener) and that was that.

But, as I'm always up for a challenge, I also made some gluten free flat breads that I served between a duo of salads. Since the garbanzo salad had mint, lemon and other strong flavors in it, I used a neutral salad oil for it. But, the green salad was just a simple Spanish salad of greens and cucumbers, so I used walnut oil in my vinaigrette which gave it a delicious, nutty taste and aroma.

The Manchego pie was served as a starter and is simple, delicious and adaptable to almost any menu you would like. A fun evening of food and friends!

Recipe: Manchego Pie

I adapted this recipe from one in Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Suppers. Her's used feta and dill, for a Greek flavor, but I substituted Manchego, the classic Spanish cheese to go along with my menu. Not quite a crust-less quiche, the ricotta is a smooth, neutral flavor that carries the bold, rich nature of the Manchego and thyme. This is great cut into thin slices and served as a first course. Likewise, you could bake it in a square pan and cut into small cubes to serve as an hors d'oeuvre. It's also perfect with a salad for a simple luncheon!

Experiment with different cheeses and herbs depending on what suits your mood. Whatever you choose, just make sure you use the best quality you can find as the cheese will be the primary flavor. Since I was creating a gluten-free dinner, I substituted a gluten-free flour mix in this recipe, which worked just fine. Madison baked her pie in a cast-iron skillet, but you can just as easily use a pie plate or a springform pan. I used my silicone springform, which worked just perfectly.

1/2 pound Manchego cheese, coarsely shredded
1 pound low-fat ricotta cheese
4 eggs, cracked and lightly beaten
1/4 cup flour
3/4 cup milk
salt and pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Mix three-quarters of the Manchego with the ricotta in a medium bowl, without worrying about getting it perfectly smooth – you’ll want some chunks. Beat the eggs into the cheese, then add the flour and milk. Season with salt, pepper and dill.

Grease a 9 inch pie plate. Pour in the batter and crumble the remaining cheese over top. Bake until golden, 35-40 minutes. Cut in to wedges and serve.

Arsenal (aka Batterie de Cuisine)

November 22, 2009

What is the arsenal? No, I do not have a gun safe or keep them secreted away behind the walls. For me, the arsenal is about entertaining or preparing food. The tools needed for making or serving something, for making the table look nice. As you all know, I love adding special things to the arsenal, things that inspire recipes or menu selections. Here are few recent additions:

Never pass up tongs. Never, ever pass up tongs on sale! These are great for pickly things, olives or other tiny bites on the table. I love bamboo tongs (I have a couple from my Grandmother's arsenal), but these stainless steel ones are fab.

More salad servers! I posted six different salad servers here almost a year ago, and that wasn't all of them. Yes reader, I was holding out on you. David sent this new set from West Elm and they look fantastic in the oddly shaped, dark brown salad bowl. I like to see something new, and these were definitely new.

Let them eat cake! And pie! I love melamine. It is one of my favorite materials, so this melamine pie and cake server set from IKEA was impossible to resist. The edges are surprisingly sharp as well. Perfect for whatever dessert you are planning to serve.

Mitchell nabbed these lovely little place card holders from the boutique at our recent fundraiser. They are glass and from Czechoslovakia. Very unique and will look fantastique on a spring table.

Jimmy and Ellie brought this lovely dish back to us from their trip to Maryland. I love it's organic qualities, plus the matte glaze is probably my favorite when it comes to pottery. AND, I had admired it at their house. Very thoughtful!

Recipe: Dama Bianca

November 1, 2009

For Halloween, we had friends over for an Italian dinner. Yes, there is no connection, but it was a fun evening to entertain and we had a great time. Of course, I love deciding what china to use and put the table together. The idea was kind of fall, but not in an obvious sort of way. And the menu was also inspired by fall, with cheesy, hearty items to match the cooler weather.

To start:
Gnocchi alla Romana (Roman gnocchi is made from semolina, not potatoes, which is cooked in milk then blended with eggs, butter and cheese. After it thickens, it's cut into circles, then baked in the oven with a little more cheese and butter.)
Unstuffed artichokes
Grissini, olives and pickled okra (I have about two cases of pickled okra in the closet, so it is served regardless of the cuisine.)

First course:
Dama Bianca (This white lady is a simple salad made with thinly sliced fennel, celery, fresh mozzarella and a delicious citrus vinaigrette. Recipe below.)

Main course:
Potato gnocchi gratin
Roasted butternut squash with balsamic reduction
Tuscan beans and onions with skillet roasted cherry tomatoes and basil

Dessert:
Chocolate cake with frozen gianduia mousse
Coffee

David sent me four sets of these super cute copper-colored mushroom salt and peppers from West Elm, so I used them for the first time and placed a set between every other place setting.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
This is a great salad for fall, with crunch and a light flavor. Everyone loved it at dinner--perhaps their favorite thing that I served. It's simple and can be done ahead of time.

For the salad:
2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves discarded and stalks thinly sliced
8 ounces fresh mozzarella (optional), roughly torn

For the dressing:
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest (preferably from an unwaxed organic lemon)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
White pepper to taste

Discard the stalks from the fennel and slice the bulb in half. To me, it important to cut the tiny triangular heart at the base of the bulb. Some people don't, but I think it's usually a little tough. and easily removed. Then, use a mandoline and slice into thin pieces. Combine with the celery and mozzarella in a large bowl or platter. You can make the salad to this point and refrigerate for several hours.

For the dressing, whisk together zest, juice, sea salt and white pepper to taste. Slowly add the olive oil and whisk until it's emulsified. Drizzle over salad, toss to combine and serve.

Mangez!

Fantastic Dinner

June 10, 2009

Monday evening, Ann Albano, executive director of the Cleveland Sculpture Center, was in Terre Haute to finalize the jurying of the 65th Annual Wabash Valley Juried Exhibition. She had done the preliminary work long distance, but came this week to see the submissions she accepted in person and decide awards. It's an exciting and eclectic exhibition, and the Swope will be announcing the winners and sharing other information about WVJE in the coming weeks.

It was a delight to meet Ann and also have the opportunity to introduce her to the wonderful community of arts supporters in Terre Haute. Since she deals with sculpture, we invited friends from Art Spaces, Inc. as well as Board members who work with both organizations. David and Kathy Brentlinger hosted a fantastic dinner at their home outside of town. We had cocktails and hors d'oeuvres by the pool with lively conversation, then dinner inside. Everything was delicious, but I could have eaten an entire plate of the potatoes. David and Kathy are consummate hosts and made sure everyone had a fantastic evening.

The 65th Annual Wabash Valley Juried Exhibition will open to the public on Saturday, July 11 with a reception from 2 to 3 p.m., and awards at 2 p.m. The exhibition is sponsored by First Financial Bank.

Entertaining: Pizza Party

May 11, 2009

I often give tips on how to entertain at home, from simple dinners to carefully staged productions, and I would say I live that scheme in my own entertaining ventures. It's been a busy couple of weeks around the house and at work, but we wanted to have a few people over, to relax and enjoy some time with our Terre Haute friends. But, I didn't think I was up for a full-fledged day of shopping, cooking and arranging, so I devised an easy plan for a pizza night with ten friends.

The plan:

Some simple nibbly-items to start (bread sticks, olives, little stuffed peppers, and pickly things)
A big salad with thin slices of blanched asparagus and little, spring carrots in a spicy, citrus vinaigrette
A selection of pizzas from La Familia de Jeshua across the street
A killer dessert

This menu takes advantage of a natural resource, right at our doorstep: some of the best pizza I have every eaten. Anywhere. Hands down. I know, you're saying, "Some of the best pizza you've ever eaten is in Terre Haute?" Don't be a hater, I said the same exact thing. But, it's true. So the plan revolves around some purchased items to which I add a few homemade touches. Easy enough. The lesson is: use what you have and what you love. Great Chinese or Thai around the corner? Get several orders of your favorites, make a big salad and dessert, and call it done. Tamales by the boatload? Margaritas, chips and salsa and you are set. Wherever it is you love to eat, there is a way to incorporate that into your entertaining. Think semi-entertaining, but not semi-homemade with Sandra Lee. (Ugh.)

Just because you are ordering pizza, doesn't mean you can't set the scene. I realize I went
a little overboard, but I was just trying to be inspirational to you, dear reader.

Since I was planning on the essence of simplicity for dinner, I knew I would have time to spend on a great dessert. This idea came to me on the long drive to Omaha over Easter: tiramisu sundaes. What? Bear with me: the flavors and concept of tiramisu, but in a sundae form. This requires the creation of two ice cream/gelato recipes; some ladyfingers; chocolate sauce; and whipped cream. I think I was recalling the frozen tiramisu Michael made years ago and was thinking about how I could use my ice cream maker to do something similar. The results? Divine. The recipe for marscapone ice cream is something I developed and the coffee gelato is variation on a recipe I use for chocolate. Either would be good on their own or with a couple of cookies on the side, but the combination of the two with some homemade chocolate sauce was....killer.

Recipe: Marscapone Ice Cream

I developed this recipe using a couple of others I've enjoyed. The marscapone makes a rich, indulgent ice cream that is just amazing all by itself. You could also layer in some jam or pureed fruit before you ripen the mixture in the freezer, but as I said, "just amazing all by itself."

16 ounces marscapone, room temperature
1 1⁄2 cup sugar
2 cups milk
2 tsp vanilla
a pinch of salt
1 cup heavy cream

Combine the marscapone, sugar, milk, vanilla and salt in blender. Process until smooth. Depending on the size of your carafe, you may have to do this in two portions. Stir in the heavy cream and chill completely. Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.

Recipe: Coffee Gelato
This gelato is rich and has a strong, coffee flavor. Use less if you want a more subtle result, and remember to use decaf if you're serving it late in the evening and are worried about keeping your guests up all night. The recipe I used before, which I couldn't find, utilized whole coffee beans which are steeped in the cream to develop the flavor. This version is much simpler and just as delicious.

3 cups milk
2 cups half-and-half
1/3 cup instant espresso powder or instant coffee powder
4 tablespoons cornstarch
1 1/2 cups sugar

In a small bowl whisk 1/2 cup of the milk, scalded, into the espresso powder or instant coffee, whisking until the powder is dissolved. In another small bowl stir 1/2 cup of the remaining milk into the cornstarch, stirring until the cornstarch is dissolved. In a large heavy saucepan combine the remaining 2 cups milk, 2 cups half-and-half and the sugar and bring the mixture just to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Stir the cornstarch mixture, whisk it into the milk mixture, and simmer the mixture, whisking, for 2 minutes. Whisk in the coffee mixture. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, chill it, covered, until it is cold, and freeze it in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer's instructions.

To make sundaes:

Add a scoop of marscapone ice cream and a scoop of coffee gelato to each individual serving dish; place two or three ladyfingers on the side; pass your favorite chocolate sauce, homemade whipped cream, and cacao nibs, allowing your guests their choice.

Recipe: Stuffed Pickled Peppers

The other thing I made (besides the salad, which is more assembled than made) was my favorite little stuffed peppers. I like to serve these as part of tapas menu, but they make a good starter for just about any Mediterranean menu. You can usually find the little peppers on the salad bar at good groceries, or jarred with the olives and other pickly things. Whole Foods often has a red and orange variety, which makes for a colorful presentation.

8 oz. of cream cheese at room temperature
8 oz. of goat cheese at room temperature
2 tbsp of butter at room temperature
1 clove of garlic, finely minced
1 to 2 tbsp of half-and-half or heavy whipping cream
24-30 red, Peppadew peppers (rinsed, drained and dried with a paper towel)

Using a hand mixer, cream together all of the ingredients through 1 tbsp. of the cream until smooth and light. Add the additional tablespoon of cream, if necessary. Place the mixture into a large, sealed bag. (A one-gallon bag works best as you want more bag than contents. Alternately, you can use a pastry bag with a tip, if you prefer.) Snip one corner of the bag and pipe the filling into each little pepper. Chill until the cheese has firmed up, at least an hour, but overnight if you wish. Serve.

Salty, buttery marcona almonds are a great accompnaniment to the peppers.

Mangez!

Recipe: Artichoke Tartlets aka Death Tarts

April 18, 2009

Every spring the Alliance of the Swope Art Museum throws a wonderful cocktail party to raise money for the Swope. They sell raffle tickets for three works of art by local artist and then announce the winners after everyone is sated by a huge buffet of homemade delicacies. This was my first time to attend the event and it was a lot of fun: the Alliance raised some money; everyone socialized and had some great treats; and three people went away with some very cool art.

The right tools help: I love cooking spray with flour for baked goods; the rolling pin my mother gave me for Christmas a couple of years ago with guards that help you get the dough to the correct thickness; my tart tamper; and high quality circle cutters.

The Alliance members all sign up to "bring a double recipe of a sweet or savory on a disposable serving piece, ready to serve." My friend Kathy brough a pesto torte, with layers of cheese, pesto and sun-dried tomatoes served as an impressive tower of power. I personally saw four people ask her for the recipe and once I have it in my clutches, you will have it as well. I wanted to pitch in too, so I made one of my favorites, Artichoke Tartlets. No one asked for the recipe, but I'm giving it to you here anyways. Make it and tell me how much you love it. Or, lie to me and tell me you made it and how much you love it.

Recipe: Artichoke Tartlets aka Death Tarts*

This recipe uses a wonderful dough I developed from a couple of sources and my favorite artichoke spread. The cream cheese makes the pastry easy to work with and extra delicious. I posted the recipe for the spread not long ago, but for this use I puree it a little more so it smoother and easier to get into the shells. The trick: make the spread and put it in a large Ziplock bag and chill in the refrigerator. When you're ready to fill the tartlets, snip off a corner of the bag and just pipe the artichoke deliciousness right in. Best thing, these can be made the night before and chilled, then put right into the oven so you can serve them fresh and warm to your guests.

For the crust:
4 ounces of chilled cream cheese, cut into four large cubes
6 ounces of chilled butter, cut in tablespoon size pieces
Pinch of salt
1 cup of flour
2-4 tsp of ice water

For the filling:
This recipe, pureed a little smoother.

In a food processor, combine the cream cheese, butter, salt and flour using the pulse feature until pearl-sized pieces are formed. Alternating, you can use a pastry knife or two knives together to cut the cream cheese and butter into the flour, but it will take a lot longer.

With the machine running, add 1 tsp of ice water until the dough pulls together. Remove from the processor and form into a small disc, chill for thirty minutes or longer.

When ready, roll the sough to 1/8 inch thickness and cut out 24 two or two-and-a-quarter-inch circles. Place these on top of a mini-muffin tin and press into the tin using your hands or a tart tamper. Fill with Parmesan spread and chill for 15 to 20 minutes. You can top each tartlet with an extra sprinkling of cheese if you wish.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and bake the tartlets for twenty to twenty-five minutes, until golden brown.

Makes 24.

*The new nickname for these little guys comes from the Alliance and a reference to Star Wars. It's not that funny, but I had to include it for those people who will get the joke.

Recipe: Do You Fondue?

March 25, 2009

I discovered recently that my family name is Swiss, not German. I know, my last name sounds German, but it's actually a German pronunciation of a French-Swiss name due to the fact my forbears went to part of what is now Germany for half a generation before emigrating to the colonies in 1731. With Germans. It's been a complete paradigm shift and entirely changed how I think about myself. I used to think my rigidness wasn't just a matter of my bourgeois, middle class upbringing, but part of my Germanic birthright. And I explained the swarthy complexion of my family (which I don't share) as 'Black Dutch.' But no more.

Now, I understand better my obsession with chocolate. (The Swiss eat more chocolate per person than any other country: 25 lbs per year.) And my affinity for cheese. Plus my obsession with fine time pieces, numbered bank accounts and protecting the Pope. And my neutrality. Suddenly my neutrality makes so much more sense.

But, I understood German food. Or thought I did, perhaps I was wrong. Meat and processed meat. Someone somewhere said the sausage was the heighth of German engineering. Perhaps, perhaps not. I knew as a vegetarian it really wasn't for me, but I do still enjoy spaetzle with butter or cream sauce and of course good German beer.

But what do Swizz people eat? I did a little research, and of course came upon the most basic: fondue. They do do the fondue. So I decided to throw a casual little fondue dinner, which is a fun and easy way to entertain.

Recipe: Cider Fondue
I have at least four vintage cookbooks on Fondue, but I adapted this recipe from one I saw in Bon Appetit magazine. It's really delicious and we consumed the entire pot. For dippers, I offered two different kinds of vegetarian sausage (Tofurky Kielbasa and Field Roast Smoked Apple Sage); cubes of bread; asparagus (which isn't really a great idea); roasted mushrooms; steamed new potatoes; roasted fingerling potatoes; and Granny Smith apples. Dessert was my favorite chocolate mousse with almond whipped cream.

6 cups coarsely grated Gruyère cheese (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 cups coarsely grated Emmenthaler cheese (about 1/2 pound)
3 tablespoon cornstarch
2 cup hard apple cider
2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
4 tablespoons brandy

Toss the cheeses and cornstarch together in a big yellow bowl to coat. Bring the hard cider and vinegar just to simmer in medium saucepan over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium low (mixture should be barely simmering). Add a handful of cheese to simmering cider mixture. Stir until cheese is melted sort of melted: you really have to achieve a certain ratio of cheese to cider before it actually begins to melt to a smooth consistency. Add remaining cheese one handful at a time, stirring until melted between additions. Increase heat to medium and cook until fondue begins to bubble, stirring constantly. Stir in brandy.

Transfer fondue to the fondue pot. Set fondue pot atop stand; carefully light candle or canned heat burner according to your product directions.

Now, about fondue pots:

Crate and Barrel have several to choose from on-line. I have the model they sell from Bodum which I highly recommend. It is composed of a large metal container which can be used for oil-based fondues when you are cooking meaty things. Likewise, it has a glass fondue container which you suspend into the larger metal one filled with water. This is great because your fondue is warmed in a hot bath, rather than having the direct flame on the pot. But, at the same time you don't end up with that little bit of crusty cheese which is considered a delicacy by the Swiss and divided amongst the guests.

I also have a smaller, electric fondue pot from Oster. It's a vintage model and I love it, especially for chocolate fondues. And even for simply melting chocolate. These can be found (as well as conventional fondue models) at the thrift store or on eBay. You really need a pot that is electric or uses a gel or cannister of fuel. The smaller ones which use a candle will not keep your cheese warm. Cold cheese fondue? Faux pas, n'est-ce pas?

After (the) Party

March 24, 2009

Monday evening after the Board meeting, I had a few of them back to my apartment for dinner. I served a salad with shaved fennel and kumquats; tomato and cheese lasagna with almonds; roasted asparagus; and a chocolate tart with a shortbread crust. It was a fun dinner and I enjoyed having them over.

Finishing the cleaning today, I did dishes and thought about the menu and evening. I wouldn't say that doing dishes is really a pleasurable thing, but I do enjoy handling my pretty things and looking at everything over before it goes back into the cabinet.

Recipe: Hors D'oeuvres

March 15, 2009

Saturday night, we were invited to an Ides of March Party by some new friends in Terre Haute. Of course, the theme was Italian and we were asked to bring an appetizer 'fit for Caesar.' I debated on what to take, but decided to try my hand at something new in addition to a recent favorite: Parmesan Pinwheels and Baked Kale.

I don't have a lot of experience with puff pastry, but these are easy and turned out well. The piquancy of the paprika complements the nuttiness of the Parmesan. They would go well with just about any cocktail and can be a made ahead and stored sealed at room temperature. The kale, the kale...a lot of people thought it was just festive garnish. But it was enjoyed by some. Note to self (and Katie): it doesn't really keep, even sealed in a plastic bag.

There were so many wonderful things to eat at the party, and Anna Lee's lasagna was delicious. Great food, new friends and a fun time.

Recipe: Parmesan Pinwheels (From Martha Stewart Everyday Food)
Ingredients
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon paprika
Coarse salt and ground pepper
All-purpose flour, for rolling
1 sheet puff pastry (from a 17.3-ounce package), thawed
1 large egg, beaten

Directions

In a bowl, mix cheese and paprika; season with salt and pepper. On a floured surface, roll out pastry to 10 by 14 inches. Brush with egg. Sprinkle with cheese mixture; using a rolling pin, roll mixture into pastry. Roll up pastry, starting from short end. Refrigerate until firm, about 25 minutes. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut roll into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Place on a rimmed baking sheet; bake until golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool 5 minutes on sheet; transfer to a rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container up to 1 day.

Makes 24

Kitchen Tip: Dinner Parties

March 3, 2009

Many people are intimidated by the idea of having friends, coworkers or business contacts over for dinner. They worry what they prepare won't be good enough or enjoyed by their guests. Or, they think their home isn't nice enough, their serving pieces special enough or their silver silver-y enough. Instead, they either skip the opportunity entirely or simply aim too low on the entertaining ladder, not taking advantage of the chance to show their creativity and have fun.

I love entertaining. I love the idea of preparing something delicious for someone else, even if it is simple and basic. From fancy food to a casserole, it's fun to think about what you will serve it in and what china you will use. It's always a challenge to consider what little details will make a simple meal special or special meal spectacular. To be a successful host, all you really need is motivation, but I've put together a list of some helpful tips that can assist the novice host in getting started or the most seasoned one hone his game.

1. Organize
When I'm planning a dinner or party, I use something quite shocking: a file folder. True. I copy the recipes I'm going to use from cookbooks and magazines and place them all in the file. I also make a master shopping list and a game plan, which also go into the folder. Sometimes I even make a sketch of the table and how I expect it to look, which also goes into the file. Everything is in one place and you don't have to spend time looking for recipes or moving back and forth between cookbooks. You can also use the file folder as a record keeping device, if you make a note of what dishes you used and who came to dinner, you can file it away and be sure not to repeat your success on the same victims. But, you have the dinner at-the-ready and planned to use on some new victims, n'est-ce pas?

2. Make the coffee before dinner
Unless you have a maid or a super-special espresso maker and want to prepare individual coffees, invest in a high quality carafe. You can find these at Target or other home stores, or you might even find one in perfect condition at the thrift store like I did. Consider this: after everyone has finished eating whatever delicious food you have prepared what would you rather do:

Go into the kitchen; turn on the coffee pot; wait for it to brew; etc. etc.?
Grab a carafe of coffee and suggest everyone follow you into the living room for dessert?

My pot will keep the coffee very hot for at least four hours, and when I'm done preparing dinner, I'm done with everything and can enjoy my guests and conversation. Have the cream in the pitcher in the fridge too!

3. Buy something
Give yourself a break and buy something. You don't have to go all Martha Stewart crazy and prepare everything from scratch down to the ketchup. I mean, it IS fun to do that sometimes as a personal challenge, but completely unnecessary. Buy the starter whether it's cheese or a spread from your local delicatessen. Add some olives and crackers and call it done. Your favorite restaurant will probably prepare a portion of a special salad or appetizer that you like, and your guests might discover something new. Or buy the dessert from your favorite bakery. Whether a sacher torte or chocolate cupcakes, your guests will love what you love.

4. The table
Keep it simple. Of course, this is coming from the person who has a hard time keeping it simple. I like to play with the dishes a couple of days before and think about what I'm going to use. Are you still wondering where everything goes? It's the 21st century and rules are made to be broken. Be creative, but be consistent.

The most important thing to consider is how are you going to serve? Here are some pointers for each:

Family style
1. You don't need table decoration if what your serving is going to fill the table, but think about little vases or something special at each place setting to smarten up the look of the table. Party favors?
2. Even if you're doing family style, it's still nice to have courses and clear between each.
3. Serve dessert in the other room.

Buffet style

1. Using the list you made of all of the dishes you will prepare, consider what they will be served in and label each serving piece with a Post-it note so you don't have to sweat it when you are pulling it all together.
2. Try to arrange your dishes in a sensible order, with the main dish first and sides to follow.
3. You can still set the table with the silver so people don't have to worry about. But, if they're picking it up, put it at the end of the buffet and roll the silver restaurant-style in the napkins.

Table service
1. Have a very thorough plan.
2. Keep the number of courses to a minimum: serve appetizers with cocktails; start with a simple salad that's on the table when guests are called in; have dessert already portioned out so you can bring to the table quickly.
3. If you really want to serve your guests, don't let them help with clearing and service. If you really need help, hire it. Really.

Simple touches for whatever style dining your using:
1. Placecards
2. Individual salt and peppers
3. Butter in pats at the ready
4. Think small centerpieces, not tall
5. Hand-held fans if it is going to be warm are a fun touch and favor

5. Keep a list
Keep a journal of your entertaining and list the following things:
1. Who came (and if they have any like, dislikes or allergies you may have learned about)
2. What you served
3. What you served it in
4. What you wore. Yes, I know it's ridiculous, but we all have that favorite party outfit and sometimes its hard not to trot it out every time there is an event.

6. One good cookbook
You can have a wall full of cookbooks and still not have any luck figuring out what to prepare for your guests. Or, you could have one good cookbook by an author you trust with time-tested recipes and ideas for entertaining. Find one that works for you (the public library has a huge selection of cookbooks you can check-out and peruse until you find one that works.) and use it as your go-to guide for thinking about dinner. Here are my top five suggestion (yes, I know I said one, but I'm past that part):
1. Mark Bittman, How to Cook Everything (revised edition) or How to Cook Everything Vegetarian
2. Rosso and Lukins, The New Basics Cookbook
3. The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook (both the original classics and new classics editions)
4. Jeane Lemlin, Simple Vegetarian Pleasures
5. The Bon Appetit Cookbook

7. Have fun, enjoy your dinner and your guests!

Brie Hole?

December 19, 2008

On Boys for Pele (one of my favorite albums of all time), Tori Amos sang, "Had me a trick and a kick and your message. You'll never gain weight from a doughnut hole. Then thought that I could decipher your message. There's no one here, dear. No one at all." But what about a brie hole? Can you gain weight from that?

I was shopping for cheese at Baesler's Market last week for my staff party and was very pleased with the selection they were offering. They had the Stilton with lemon that I like, plus a very good Manchego. The most surprising thing? A medium-sized wheel of brie with a hole cut out of the middle where you could put fruit or other things. Huh? What did they do with the part they cut out? It's called 'brie charmant,' which translates to 'charming brie.' Mais, oui oui! Tout le monde! Zeut alors! Sacre couer!!

I just bought a slab, because I have found a little bit of brie goes a long way. When I buy the huge, delicious wheel it never gets eaten, so I'll stick with a perfect wedge--une wedge parfait.

Fromage, s'il vous plait! (Cheese, please!)

A Butter Dish for Captain Ahab

November 1, 2008

Last week in Wichita, I finally had the opportunity to stop by my friend Emily’s fabulous store, Frank & Margaret. Her lovely space is filled with some of the best things you could want for your table or home, plus those unique gifts everyone is looking for this time of year. If you’re in Wichita, I suggest you make a trip, because I know you’ll find something you love.

As part of her eclectic inventory, Emily has a wonderful selection of whimsical offerings from Jonathan Adler, ceramicist and provocateur. Adler has a fun style which he offers up on TV, in his stores and his fantastic book, My Prescription for Anti-Depressive Living. I love his designs, especially to give as gifts…but hadn’t seen the new, mod butter dish in the shape of whale. It was like we were meant to be together. And when I saw the matching pitcher on his web site (Do I need another pitcher? Who cares!), I knew we were all three meant to be together. Of course, the butter dish couldn’t be used for everyday. And I don’t really serve bread at meals that often, but it doesn’t matter because it will look great in my china cabinet. Or yours, ne serait-il pas?