Vegaquiles

In a follow up to my post on the difference between migas and chilaquiles, I offer another option: vegaquiles!  Or, I guess you could say vigas...

I try to follow a vegan diet at home, but I say try because it isn't an absolute sort of thing.  Rather, a way to eat more veggies and less animal products.  I'm not changing the name of this blog to 'Vegan at Home' or anything.  It's still about delicious eats, but as I think a lot of people can tell you, the ideas of 'vegan' and 'delicious' are not in contradiction.  Take for instance this recipe for vegaquiles...

Idea: Vegaquiles
The basis of this recipe is the wonderful recipe for tofu scramble provided by Post Punk Kitchen and published in Vegan Brunch, one of my favorite cookbooks for a variety of reasons.  I made a few subtle changes to the recipe to make it more appropriate for the vegaquiles.

1. Omit the thyme and use oregano or Mexican oregano.
2. Add 1 tsp. each of onion powder and garlic powder to the spice mix.
3. Use 4-5 tbsp. of vegetable broth in place of the water.  You want a little more liquid for for the vegaquiles to come together.
4. Move the scramble to a plate while you fry up the chips; use a new skillet or clean out the scramble skillet well.  If you don't, you'll end up with a bunch of burned spices coating your chips.
5. Otherwise, proceed with the directions in difference using stale tortilla chips, pico and your favorite salsa.  Lucky me, I had leftovers from Rosa's again!  How did that happen?

I topped mine with red and green salsa (Christmas style!) and a mix of Daiya cheeses.  Delicious way to start a Sunday morning...

Difference

Sometimes, things you think are the same are actually different.  Take for instance, the breakfast taco and breakfast burrito.  Anyone who has ever eaten a breakfast taco and a breakfast burrito can probably tell you: they aren't the same thing.  It's about proportion, scale and sometimes ingredients.  But some people, even Texas Monthly prescribes the difference to regional nomenclature, suggesting a breakfast taco and burrito are identical.  But just about any child (in Texas anyways) can tell you that, besides proportion and scale, a burrito is rolled, whereas a taco is folded.

Which brings me to migas.  And chilaquiles.  ¿Cuál es la diferencia?

The Epicurious Food Dictionary definition says:

chilaquiles [chee-lah-KEE-lehs]
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn TORTILLA strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green CHILES, cheese, CHORIZO and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like LASAGNA and baked.


The dictionary doesn't define migas, but Wikipedia offers the explanation for the Tex-Mex version, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese iterations:


migas [me-gus]
In Tex-Mex cuisine, migas [me-gus] are a traditional breakfast dish consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with strips of corn tortilla; the meatless version includes diced onions, sliced chile peppers, diced fresh tomatoes, and cheese, plus various spices and condiments (e.g. salsa or pico de gallo). Migas are typically served with refried beans, and corn or flour tortillas are used to enfold all of the ingredients into tacos. The tortilla strips can also be deep-fried until crunchy

And then some places serve chilaquiles with eggs.  So what is what?  Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I tend to think definitions are important.  We have so many words in the English language, many of them borrowed from other countries and cultures, so we have the opportunity to be very specific.  Like the difference between burrito and taco!  Blurring definitions is simply lazy, which probably makes me sound old.  You're probably hearing, "why don't they teach handwriting in the public schools anymore!"

Which brings me to: addiction.  And after my confession, perhaps you can tell me what I'm making?

After moving to West Texas, I quickly became addicted to Rosa's.  Located all across West Texas, and even as far away as Dallas, Rosa's makes pretty delicious fast, Mexican food--there is no reason to go to Taco Bell.  Never.  But, what makes Rosa's special is their tortillas, which are made fresh right there in each and every store.  You can watch.  And, that is how they elevate something as simple as a bean burrito (rolled!) with cheese and delicious salsa into a revelation: bean and cheese and salsa inside a warm, soft flour tortilla probably just pulled off of the line.  Seriously, I start thinking about it and my mouth begins to water.  I pass Rosa's and I start thinking about how long I can keep myself from it.

And their chips.  And their queso!  So good.  But then you end up with a bag full of leftover chips.  Chips that were made fresh in store and don't really keep.  Chips that are pretty stale the next morning.  What to do?  Migas/chilaquiles!

So here is easy, breezy morning migas/chilaquiles when you have leftover or stale chips, some salsa, a couple of eggs...and a little cheese.

Heat some vegetable oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add enough chips to cover the bottom of the pan in one layer.  The idea is to fry the chips so they crisp up again, so stir them and turn them until they start to get a little brown.

Meanwhile, crack and beat two eggs with a little salt.  Ready your salsa (I use about 1/3 cup), some garlic and fresh pico, about 1/4 cup if you have  it (at Rosa's, they have it, so I have it.).

Once the chips are lightly brown, take the pan off the heat and add the garlic (enough) and stir until it starts to cook.  Then, dump in the salsa and pico.  It's probably going to sizzle and splatter a little.  Return to the heat and cook until the salsa is reduced a little.  Lower the temperature, add the eggs and cook until they are scrambled right into that mess.

Top with cheese and a little more salsa and voila!  Migas.  Or chilaquiles with eggs.  Or something else, I don't know.  The bottom line is that it's an easy, delicious breakfast on Sunday morning and a perfect way to use up stale chips or tortillas with your favorite salsa.  This serves two!

Uruguayan

Friday night after the Swope event, we were out with friends at Moggers to enjoy a little food and a couple of drinks. Jimmy turned to me and said, "Name a country." Without hesitation, I responded, "Uruguay."

Why? I have no idea. I was tired and it just popped into my head. What was Jimmy asking? Inspiration for his Saturday night menu, which we were going to enjoy before catching up on Top Chef. Or course, Jimmy hadn't qualified his question and I just answered it randomly. I know if he had said, "What type of cuisine would you like to have tomorrow?," I would never have said Uruguay. Probably Thai or Chinese. Maybe something Moroccan as there has been a lot of talk about tagines lately. But never Uruguay.

Why? I've never had it and probably never will. It's meaty and about grilling, roasting and asado. Asado is the traditional grilling of beef over hot coals. Of course, since we're all vegetarians, Jimmy is not going to be doing any beef asado. But thankfully, there are other influences important to Uruguayan cuisine and he whipped up a delicious pasta with Sauce Caruso.

What is Sauce Caruso? A Uruguayan sauce created in honor of a visit to South American by the famous tenor, Enrico Caruso. After, it spread the globe and every restaurant in Uruguay is encouraged to include it on their menu. Sauce Caruso is made from cream, sliced onions, mushroom, warming spices and walnuts. It also traditionally includes ham, but of course Jimmy left that out, but added some seitan. A light purple-y color, tossed with campanelle and tossed with a little cheese, the sauce was delicious. And Jimmy sent us home with leftovers. (Just as delicious the next day!) Amazing. So, he took the peculiar challenge and won it. Five stars.

And dessert? Ellie made the traditional Uruguayan dessert of rich, delicious browning topped with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce. Seriously, they invented it and we thank them. Possibly the best brownie ever...

I'm not sure where Jimmy got his recipe from, but here is a recipe for Sauce Caruso if you are intrigued. And you should be.

Lakehouse Tex-Mexicana

Labor Day at the Monahan Compound in Holland, MI was restful and a lot of fun, as always. I did some reading, card playing, swimming, walking, talking, joking, chatting and, of course, cooking. We ate like kings and queens because there were (too) many delicious things, including:

Sean's Passion Fruit Cocktail

1. Caramel brownies from Peggy
2. Tracy's Asian slaw
3. A wonderful meal of farmer's market treats prepared by Margaret and her crew
4. More M&Ms than anyone should eat
5. Blueberry Buckle
6. John's chipotle almonds
7. Ice cream from moi (I drove this year, so got to pack the ice cream maker. I think everyone was pleased.)
8. Sean's delicious, fruity and potent cocktails
9. Katie's guacamole and margaritas.

Avocado Enchiladas

The list could go on and on and on. John and I prepared a Tex-Mex inspired meal for Sunday evening and it was a lot of fun. We started with chips and salsa along with some little nibblies I constructed from cantaloupe and cucumber. For the main course, we had avocado enchiladas (John will share the recipe later, natch.) and a taco bar with three different fillings. Each was delicious, but after I kept thinking about the very simple mole. I guess John was too, because on the way home at the same moment, we both said, "I wonder if it freezes?" Dessert, well-deserved, was a tres leches birthday cake for Margaret.

Recipe: Spicy Lime Cucumber and Cantaloupe

I had been reading some articles about what people all over the world do with melon, and got the idea of combining my favorite melon with the crisp, green flavor of cucumber. It's simple, light and is the perfect thing to stimulate the palate before a wonderful Latin meal.

• 1 medium-sized cantaloupe
• 2 English cucumbers, peeled, cut in half lengthwise and seeded
• 2 large or 3 medium limes
• kosher or coarse salt
• chili powder
• toothpicks

1. Cut the cantaloupe into thick slices, then into 1 to 1 1/2 inch chunks.
2. Cut the cucumber into large, haphazard slices.
3. Assemble the cantaloupe and cucumber with toothpicks, one piece of each per toothpick.
4. Mix together (enough) salt with (enough) chili powder. I would say, 1 tbsp. of salt and add 1 tsp. of chili powder. Taste and add more chili powder if you like.
5. Cut the limes in half and squeeze juice over fruit. Sprinkle with chili-salt and serve.

Recipe: Black Bean Mole with Seitan

Mole is one of the traditional sauces of Mexico. It has as many interpretations as there are cooks in the kitchen. This one goes together simply, but is still delicious. You could use it over any type of protein. Simply prepare each separately and then combine until heated through. Does it freeze beautifully? I'll let you know. This recipe is from Emeril, believe it or don't.

• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 2 tablespoons pure ground Pasilla chili powder
• 1 cup cooked black beans (rinsed if using canned)
• 1 cup chopped tomatoes
• 1 cup vegetable stock
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed
• 2 teaspoons lime juice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt and pepper

In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, oregano, sesame seeds, and chili powder, stirring constantly for 3 minutes, and then place in a blender. Add the beans, tomatoes, vegetable stock, honey, cilantro, lime, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Puree until smooth. Now transfer the mole to a medium saucepan and heat until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Cook seitan, tofu, or whatever separately, then add to the sauce.

Recipe: Black Bean Salad or Taco Filling

This could be a simple salad or a scrumptious taco filling. The addition of pineapple gives it a new, tropical flavor and sets it apart from your everyday black bean salads.

• 2 cans black beans, drained, about 30 ounces
• 1 (15-ounce) can corn, drained
• 2 Roma tomatoes, diced
• 1/4 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/4 cup diced red onion
• 1/4 cup diced green onions
• 1/4 cup diced pineapple
• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves
• 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
• 4 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• Juice of 1/2 lime
• 3 tablespoons honey
• 1 tablespoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• Pinch ground cumin

Mix all of the ingredients together, then chill to let the flavors meld. Serve with corn tortillas, or just alone with the chips on the side.

Recipe: Potatoes Rajas (aka potatoes with onions and roasted red peppers in a creamy, cheesy sauce)

Did you get that? Potatoes AND onions AND roasted red peppers in a CREAMY, CHEESY SAUCE. Yes, it's as good as it sounds. Perfect in a corn tortilla, you could serve this just as a side if you wanted. Likewise, the rajas would be fine sans potato with a big bag of chips. I am picturing it now: me, sofa, rajas and chips. Perfection.

• 3 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 4 cups creamy rajas, recipe follows

Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the potatoes until just tender, being careful not to overcook, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain, pat dry and spread in a single layer on a tray to cool. When ready to serve, heat the rajas in a medium saucepan over medium low heat, stirring frequently, just to heat through. Add the potatoes and stir occasionally until heated through. For potato and rajas tacos, toast 24 small Corn Tortillas and keep warm. For each taco, stack 2 tortillas and layer with the potato rajas mixture. Top with Salsa Fresca and an avocado slice and serve.

CREAMY RAJAS

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, halved and cut in 1/4-inch slices, lengthwise
• 1 16 oz jar roasted red pepper, drained and patted dry, sliced into thin slices.
  
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup grated Manchego or Monterey Jack cheese
• 2/3 cup grated Cotija, Romano or Parmesan cheese

In a large skillet heat the oil over medium heat. Saute the onions with the salt and pepper until they begin to wilt and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the julienned red peppers. Pour in the heavy cream, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook 4 minutes or until the cream begins to thicken. Stir in the grated cheeses and remove from the heat. Serve immediately.

Recipe: Tres Leches Cake

This recipe is simple, direct and constructed in a traditional manner: egg yolks and sugar are mixed together, whipped eggs whites and flour are folded in and the baked cake is doused with a mixture of milks. Topped with whipped cream, what could be better? Rosa said it was as good as her grandmother's, which is the ultimate compliment in my book.

• Unsalted butter, room temperature, for baking dish
• 6 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
• 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
• 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar

Preheat oven to 325°. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs yolks and sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. In another bowl, beat egg whites to soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold whites into yolks until almost combined. Gently fold in flour (do not overmix).

Spread batter in prepared dish. Bake until golden and pulling away from sides of dish, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a small knife, scrape skin from top of cake; discard. Cool cake for 20 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the three milks; pour evenly over cake. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to one day.

To serve, prepare topping: In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream with sugar to soft peaks. Chill cake and cut into squares; serve topped with whipped cream.

Mangez!