Fishy

Do you use fish sauce when you cook? It's an Asian condiment that brings a salty, fermented quality to a dish. You've probably had it in Pad Thai or another dish in a restaurant somewhere and you may not have even noticed it. Something salty? A little bit of pleasant funk? Fish sauce. Now, even before I stopped eating meat, I never cared for or ate fish, and there's a long story to go along with that--but I won't bore you with it at the moment. Suffice it to say, my maternal grandfather had an odd sense of humor.

Back to the sauce. After over fifteen years of cooking without meat, I've become pretty adept at adapting anything to be meatless. It isnt that hard, but there are certain condiments, like fish sauce, that remain out of reach. Occasially, if you're shopping during the right season and in a good store, you can find a bottle of vegetarian fish sauce at the Vietnamese market (labeled chay), but those are few and far between. And there ain't no Vietnamese market in Midland--that I know of anyway! Which is why I was excited to discover a recipe for a fishless fish sauce in Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, right on my bookshelf. It is simple and adds that certain j'en sais quoi to my dishes. I'm using it this week to make my Spicy Edamame...

Recipe: Fishless Fish Sauce

1 tbsp. dulse (a form of seaweed), crumbled

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablspoon Tamari or soy sauce

3 tablespoon water

4 limes

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Whisk the dulce, garlic, soy sauce and water together in a small bowl. Grate the zest of two of the limes into the bowl, then juice all four limes into the mixture. Add the brown sugar, then whisk until dissolved. Decant into a small jar and let the flavors meld. Keeps for a how long? I would say a while. And that, my friends, is vegetarian fish sauce.

Peas, Please

Saturday at the farmer's market was all about the green: asparagus, broccoli and shell peas. I'm not sure what I'll do with the asparagus and broccoli, but I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the peas: pasta.

Guilano Hazan's new cookbook, Thirty Minute Pasta: 100 quick and easy recipes, is filled with wonderful recipes and ideas for pasta. Think you've made every pasta imaginable? Think you have already tossed everything you can toss with noodles? Think again.

The idea for the peas with pasta is simplicity embodied: cook an onion; add some peas; puree half of the mixture; add back to the peas with some pasta water; and finally toss with the pasta. I made this recipe during the winter with frozen peas and it was delicious, but making it with fresh peas took the pasta to a whole new level.

Since there is no butter, cheese, citrus or other flavors, the sweet, green essence of the peas really sings a magnificent solo. The only thing you need is salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, which provides the perfect contrast to the peas. A drizzle of olive oil over the finished dish? Delizioso!

Recipe: Crispy Soft Cevice Tacos

This is the perfect combination of citrus, spiciness and crunch...a great taco for spring and summer!

I devised the original recipe a few years ago after reading an article by Calvin Trillin's on ceviche. I've never had a ceviche made with fish (or anything else, for that matter!) in my life, but the combination of flavors and the idea of something crisp and fresh was appealing. Why not substitute tofu? A firm tofu cubed could pass in a ceviche for small pieces of fish, right? It's turned out beautifully and I loved it. So, why not make a taco out of it?

It is taco nirvana, that is all I have to say. Perfection.

Recipe: Crispy Soft Ceviche Tacos

Following a couple of easy steps with the tofu will go a long way to create amazing flavor and texture in your ceviche--this means you have to start thinking about the ceviche a couple of days before you want to eat it. First, freeze the tofu--at least overnight. This improves the texture and allows you to get more moisture out of it. After it's thawed, press as much water out as possible, dice and proceed with the recipe. Once assembled, your really want to let the ceviche sit overnight as the tofu will absorb the flavors and be 'cooked' by the citrus. I know, it sounds weird, but the texture does change. A great addition: thinly sliced kumquats if you can find them. The salad that follows is a great accompaniment to the tacos.

1 lb. firm tofu, pressed and cut into 3/8-inch cubes
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 small jalapeno chilled, cored and seeded, finely diced
1 medium red onion in small, finely diced
1 medium tomato, seeded and diced
1/2 cup ketchup
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
4 tbsp. fresh lime juice
1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
large pinch of cumin
small pinch ground cinnamon
small pinch of ground cloves
dash of Tabasco
2 tbsp. virgin olive oil

1/2 cup cilantro leaves
Crispy Taco Shells
Soft, flour tortillas

Place the tofu in a large bowl, add onion, tomato and jalapeno. In a smaller bowl, combine ketchup and through the olive oil. Whisk together, then pour over tofu mixture, folding gently until mixed well. Add salt to taste, then chill for several hours, or overnight if possible.

(The ceviche is also great served in little spoons, endive spears, or small glasses with a celery garnish.)

When you're ready, heat the oven and prepare the crispy tacos as directed by the package. Warm the flour tortillas in a dry skillet. Assemble the tacos by placing a crispy taco shell in a soft flour tortilla, filling with the ceviche and topping with freshly chopped cilantro.

Makes eight to ten tacos.

Recipe: Creamy, cumin-scented Salad Dressing with Chili Pepitas

I love this creamy dressing--the cumin adds a little bite, to contrast the creaminess. The pepitas add spiciness and a delicious crunch.

For the Dressing
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp. light vinegar (a Champagne vinegar would be good)
1 tbsp. olive oil
Freshly ground pepper

In your salad bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise through vinegar. Slowly add the olive oil and keep whisking. Add freshly ground black pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.

For the Pepitas
1/4 cup pumpkin seeds
1/4 tsp. chili powder
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
Spray olive oil

Heat a small, non-stick skillet to high heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and spray generously with the oil. Sprinkle with chili powder and salt, stirring and tossing until the pumpkin seeds begin to brown and pop. Cool.

For the Salad

Top the salad dressing with 6 ounces butter lettuce, toss and taste for seasoning. Top each serving with a the pumpkin seeds. Other nice additions might be cucumber or avocado.

Serves 4.

Taco #4

Peas Please

I took a break from tacos this week and made a delicious pasta from Guilano Hazan's new quick pasta book. There are lots of delicious ideas in it, but this sounded like spring to me--a sauce made from peas, some whole and some pureed, with lots of pepper. It was divine!

Recipe: Beer-Battered Tofu Taco

My family is Southern, so when I was growing up, frying was a delicious way of life. But then the 80s happened and my parents got all healthy and went through their 'orange roughy period' and all of that kind of stopped. Our Christmas dinner is fried, but otherwise I don't think there are many meals that revolve around the fried foods of my youth: fried okra, fried fish, very thin fried slices of zucchini and squash, fried chicken, fried peppers, fried cheese....and so on and so on.

And frying is a mess. That oil splatters all of over the place and you are cleaning for days. And then what do you do with the oil left in the pan? You have to deal with that as well. Not fun. So, I reserve frying for special occasions--or when I'm particularly inspired, as with this amazing taco.

First, I have to admit: I've never eaten a fish taco. But, the idea of a crisp fried piece of something in a tortilla with some aromatics and a little crunch is incredibly appealing. So, I put this recipe together using a beer batter that recalls the fried fish I remember from childhood and accompaniments that play up the crunch. Some spicy mayonnaise, a little bit of tropical salsa and you're good. It is exactly what I wanted it to be: warm, crunchy, smooth, spicy and delicious!

Plus, when you're frying tofu, you're kind of canceling out something on the bad list with something on the good list, right?

Recipe: Beer Battered Tofu Tacos Tropicale

It seems like a lot of work, but if you're organized you can put these tacos together pretty quickly. I start by warming the tortillas in a dry skillet, then wrap them in foil and toss them in a low oven. That way, they're pliable and warm then you're ready to assemble the tacos. Just put a baking sheet in the upper third of the oven and you can also put the tofu on it to stay warm as you take it out of the fryer.

For the spicy mayo:
1 cup of mayonnaise
2-4 tsp. of hot sauce

Combine the mayonnaise and hot sauce in a small bowl, use a spoon or whisk to blend together. Reserve in the refrigerator for assembling the tacos.

For the tofu

1 lb of extra-firm tofu, prepared as below

For the best texture and flavor, buy an organic extra-firm tofu and place it in the freezer for at least overnight. Take it out and let it thaw for several hours or run under warm water in the sink. It seems like a small step, but freezing and then thawing the tofu creates a firmer texture and allows you get more of the moisture removed.

Cut the tofu in half lengthwise. Using paper towels or a clean dishtowel, gentle press as much water out of the tofu as possible. This may take a couple of towels to get done. The more water you get out, the tastier your end product.

Then, cut each rectangle into six pieces. I like to cut them at slight angles so you don't end up with a perfectly shaped piece.

Set the tofu aside until ready to fry.

For the batter
1 1/2 cups flour
1/4 cup corn starch
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
scant 1/4 tsp. cayenne
1 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. onion powder
1/4 cup nutritional yeast
1 1/2 cups (12 oz) dark beer
Peanut oil for frying

Combine all of the dry ingredients in a small yellow bowl. Whisk or stir to combine. Remove 3/4 cup of the mixture to shallow bowl or pie plate.

Add the beer to the mixture in the small yellow bowl and stir to combine.

Heat the oil in large pot or skillet to 375 degrees. You will need between 48 and 64 ounces, depending on the size of your skillet.

As the oil is heating, coat the tofu in the dry flour mixture and set aside. Once, the oil reaches the appropriate temperature, dip each piece of tofu in the batter, allowing extra to drip away, then place in the skillet. Depending on the size of your skillet, you probably want to do six pieces at a time. Fry for 4-5 minutes, until the batter is puffed and golden-brown. Remove to a paper towel lined plate to drain, then place on the baking sheet in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with remaining tofu.

Accompaniments
Corn and/or flour tortillas
Cilantro, coarsely chopped
Green onion, finely sliced
Lettuce, small pieces of iceberg or butter lettuce
A fruity salsa, like mango or pineapple salsa--the sweetness goes nicely with the spicy fried tofu.

To assemble the tacos

Cut each piece of tofu in half lengthwise. Double-up the corn tortillas, if using. Spread about 1 tbsp of the spicy mayonnaise down the center of on each tortilla. Place a little bit of lettuce on the mayonnaise, top with two halves of fried tofu. Sprinkle with cilantro and green onion, then top with a spoonful of salsa.

Makes 12 tacos.

Taco #3

bigYELLOWtaco

I'm not changing the name of the blog, but I'm starting something I have been wanting to do for a while: write a cookbook. I've had lots of ideas on what I could write about it and where recipes and inspiration could be found, but not any awesome, tight, focused ideas--until now.

I miss tacos. That's where this inspiration comes from. I love them and all of the different things you can put inside them. Tacos are simple, delicious and the varieties are endless. Or, I guess we will find out. My goal: 52 different vegetarian and vegan tacos, plus some accompaniments. A different taco for week of the year, if you want. Plus, an easy way to work veggies and the vegetarian diet into your routine if it's something you're trying to incorporate. I'll be sharing some recipes and asking for feedback, but also sharing some photos, ideas and inspiration. Publisher, smublisher. I'll self-publish!

Brussel Sprout SANDWICH?!?

I know, I know: you don't like Brussel sprouts. No one does. Or no one thinks they do! They're not scary, mon petit chou. Just think of them as little cabbages. My favorite way to prepare them is to steam or boil them slightly; finish cooking them in a hot pan until they are nice brown; then add some toasted pecans and Parmesan cheese. Delicious--I could make an entire meal out of those.

But then I saw this amazing recipe for open faced Brussel sprout sandwiches with smokey onions, from the latest issue of Food&Wine. They did a story on influential vegetarian cookbook authors and some of their classic recipes, including this one from Deborah Madison, Grand Empress of Vegetarian Cooking and author of the classic Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.

What makes this recipe so yummy? A little bit of cheese; toasty bread; and a spice I have been using a lot lately, smoked paprika. This is perfect as a light lunch or an accompaniment to a big bowl of soup. I was also thinking about how it might taste topped with a fried egg!

Recipe by Deborah Madison as reprinted in Food&Wine is here.

Cookbook Collection

This blog actually started out (almost five years ago!) as a paean to cookbooks and a document of my obsession with them. After a while, it turned a corner and became more about food: what I was cooking, eating or feeding to others. I think it has a bit of a slant towards entertaining, but that's because I really enjoy and sharing tips and tricks with my readers. But, I think whether we are talking about eating, cooking, shopping, feeding or entertaining, the flowering of my thoughts still stems from cookbooks.

As mentioned before, one reason I pick-up a vintage cookbook is for the illustrations. Drool-worthy photography seems so integral to cookbooks today, but I think it's much more interesting to see how publishers made their tomes visually interesting without the ability to add a giant, color photograph to each page. That said, I have stacks and stacks of cookbooks, so I have to be careful about my choices. Right? But, when thrifting at the St. Vincent de Paul in Madison, I couldn't resist picking up a few treasures.

Next time you're over, we can thumb through a couple of my favorites and I'll show you the best of my collection.

Reminisence: Orphaned Fondue Cookbooks

I've talked before about how the Venn Diagram of my two blogs intersects with my cookbook collection. I love vintage ones. Let me rephrase: I am obsessed with vintage cookbooks and its always exciting to find something with fun and original illustrations. I enjoy reading the recipes and food suggestions from the past and occasionally take inspiration from flavor combinations I might see in an old text. But mostly, it is the thrill of the find and a peek into the old kitchens that fuel my pursuit.

There are several sub-groups to the vintage cookbook collection I would note as particularly important:

1. Anything by the trinity of 20th century cookbooks/food writing: James Beard, Julia Child and M.F.K. Fisher.
2. Pamphlet cookbooks from various manufacturers of food or kitchen products
3. Vintage Jell-O cookbooks
   

And a new subgroup is starting to take shape: fondue cookbooks! I had several (I have at least three others, but I think there are more. Part of the collection is currently in storage, so I don't have access to my full library.), but found an amazing one at the thrift store last week. Fabulous Fondues contains illustrations that are bold, graphic and utilize the unusual color combination of hot pink and orange. I love it. Plus, even though its small, this fondue cookbook has lots of wonderful advice and lore. Published in 1970, it's a keeper. It's also apt as I'm planning a dinner party around fondue for next week. A casual Friday night affair, I'll keep you all posted on the full menu and hopefully have some photos of everyone gathered around the pot.

Reminiscing: Food in 'To Kill a Mockingbird'

Last week, I reread To Kill a Mockingbird by Harper Lee in order to prepare for the Swope Book Club discussion. We have a book club as part of our First Friday event and select texts related to works of art in the Museum's collection. Mockingbird was selected because of a special exhibition on view, African American Images and Artists from the Swope Collection which features an interesting painting by John McCrady called, Hush, Somebody's Calling My Name. McCrady was a Southern Regionalist and drew inspiration from the music and culture of the people around him, the title of his painting comes from a spiritual popular in the late-19th century.

John McCrady, Hush Somebody's Calling My Name, 1939
Oil and tempera on canvas
Swope Art Museum Collection, 1941.21

We had a great discussion about the painting and the book. Everyone had a lot of insight into the characters and felt very strongly about particular ones, especially Atticus and his role as 'the grounded, moral center' of the story. The narrator aside, I appreciated the balance between Calpurnia and Aunt Alexandra the most. Both women were trying to 'do the right thing' for Scout, but operating from two very different perspectives with unique motivations.

I continued to think about the book over the weekend and want to see the film again, while the text is still fresh in my mind. One thing I wish we would have discussed is the role of food in the story. It really is an important character in the book, expressing the quailities of Southern life even during an era of depression and need. What the various people eat (or don't eat in some cases) says as much about them as the delightful descriptions that Lee provides. I almost want to reread the book again, paying closer attention to the food as I go. Perhaps next year.

One of the main references to food is of course the Southern favorite, cake. Miss Maudie references her Lane Cake in this quote, "“Soon as I can get my hands clean and when Stephanie Crawford’s not looking, I’ll make him a Lane Cake. That Stephanie’s been after my recipe for thirty years, and if she thinks I’ll give it to her just because I’m staying with her she’s got
another thing coming.” Lots of people are protective of their recipes (not me!) and I have heard stories of steps or ingredients being left out of many a 'shared' recipe. Crafty.

Epicurious has a recipe for Lane Cake that looks delicious, but must be quite the undertaking.

For more information on Southern food see:
Southern Foodways Alliance

Three of my favorite books on Southern cooking:
Gift of Southern Cooking: Recipes and Revelations from Two Great Southern Cooks by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock
The Glory of Southern Cooking by James Villas
The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would Be Southerners by Matt Lee and Ted Lee

AND, a recent article in the New York Times about sweet tea vodka, the new house wine of the South.

Blintzes

The new cookbook from Ina Garten (Translates literally as 'in a garden.') a.k.a the Barefoot Contessa (And where is this Barefoot? Italy? Everyone knows those Italian titles aren't real, so quit curtsying every time she comes on the television!), Back to Basics: Get Great Flavors from Simple Ingredients, is filled with lots of wonderful and simple ideas from entertaining. She has some very authoritative lists about ways to set the table or desserts that can be purchased, and I respect that a lot. Very 1950s of her. Of course, the best sounding recipe was one for brunch: a simplified casserole using the language and flavor of a labor-intensive blintz. My mother (aka Miss Barbara) prepared a wonderful spread for Christmas brunch, including this recipe, cinnamon rolls, breakfast pizzas and fruit. I thought the blintz casserole was quite delicious, although I might attempt a slightly smaller ratio of cheese to crust. Amazing and delicious!

Recipe: Baked Blintzes with Blueberry Sauce*

For the batter:
1 1/4 cups milk
2 tbsp sour cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 tsp vanilla
4 eggs
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp baking powder

For the filling:
2 cups ricotta cheese
8 oz mascarpone cheese or cream cheese
1/2 cup Egg Beaters or other egg white product
1/3 cup sugar
1 tbsp grated lemon zest
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 tsp salt

Preheat the over to 350 degrees and butter a 9x13 baking dish.

For the batter, place all of the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Pour half the batter (about 1 3/4 cups) into the prepared baking dish and bake for 10 minutes, until set.

In the meantime, whisk together the filling, mascarpone, eggs and sugar in a big yellow bowl. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, vanilla and salt, mixing thoroughly. Spread the cheese mixture over the baked pancake, then spoon the remaining batter over the cheese mixture to cover.

Bake for 35-40 minutes more, until the top is golden brown. Let cool for 10-15 minutes, cut into squares and top with blueberry sauce.

Serves 8-10.

Recipe: Blueberry Sauce
3/4 cup orange juice
2/3 cup sugar
1 tbsp cornstarch
4 half-pints blueberries
1 tsp grated lemon zest
1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

Combine the juice, sugar and cornstarch in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Once the mixture has begun to thicken, add the blueberries and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, just as a few of the berries are beginning to burst. Stir in a lemon zest and juice and allow to cool.

*I've altered the recipe from the original source and posting. Mom made this for brunch, and while delicious, it was very rich. I felt like the ratio of cheese filling to crust should be less and the reduction of ricotta, plus use of an egg substitute, make for a better breakfast/brunch. treat. (1.4.09)

Betty Crocker's Cooking Calendar

Sunday afternoon I went to St. Mary-of-the-Woods for their annual book sale. I couldn't resist! There wasn't a lot I wanted, but I did find a copy of Betty Crocker's Cooking Calendar: A Year-Round Guide to Meal Planning with Recipes and Menus. It has a letter from Betty at the beginning (You know she's Santa Claus' half-sister, don't you?) and was illustrated by Gloria Kamen and Alice Golden.

I don't own a copy of this book and don't remember seeing one before. But, it has what I love most in a cookbook:
1. Amazing, delicious recipes?
2. A celebrity chef?
3. Kitchen tips and hints?

Oh, it has all of those things, but more importantly it has delightful illustrations. I could not resist. Each month, every day there are ideas and recipes, plus drawings which are so assuring. They simply say, "your family will love this and love you for preparing it." And isn't that what cooking is all about?

Mangez!

Pasta and Eggs

The other night I made a delicious pasta dressed with garbanzo beans, lemons and roasted broccoli. But, as I got out the fourth and final helping for dinner, I was feeling a little was bored. I happen to be reading Lynn Rosetto Kasper's new cookbook, The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper. The Splendid Table is Kasper's NPR radio program on food and cooking, a wealth of tips and ideas. Of course, the idea of a public radio program on cooking has the makings for parody (Remember Alec Bladwin and his Schweaty Balls on SNL in the early 90s?), but Kasper has the personality and experience to pull the program off in an authentic way.

One of the chapters in the book is on eggs and is filled with wonderful ideas like pan-fried deviled eggs and salad with potato and hard cooked eggs. Reading the recipes and looking at the photos made me hungry for eggs, and as I looked at my plate of leftover pasta thought it might taste better topped with an egg fried in olive oil. I was right.

Recipe: Pasta with Broccoli, Garbanzo Beans and Lemon

1 16 oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
1 large lemon
Olive oil (flavored with citrus is you have it)
1 large head of broccoli
12 oz of tubish pasta such at ziti
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. While it warms, wash the broccoli and cut into small florets. Toss in a baking pan with 2 tbsp. Of olive oil, some salt and a little pepper. Roast in the oven until done, 12 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat water to boiling and cook pasta according to package directions.

In a big yellow bowl, place the garbanzo beans and 1 to 2 tbsp of olive oil. Grate the lemon zest directly into the bowl, then juice the lemon and add. Using a fork or potato masher, coarsely mash the beans and oil into a thick, chunky paste. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta. Add the water to thin the beans, then add pasta, tossing to coat. Add the Parmesan cheese in small amounts, tossing with each addition so it is well mixed and doesn't clump into the pasta. Toss in the cooked broccoli, taste and season with salt and pepper. Enjoy. Makes 4 servings.

(Top with a fried egg, if you wish.)

Mangez!

I Hate to Cook....

...not really!
Over the break, I was perusing Barbara's (aka my mother) cookbook shelf which is located in one of the kitchen cupboards, when I found a long lost treasure: Peg Bracken's I Hate to Cook Book. This tiny tome, a mainstay from the 1960s convenience kitchen, is probably the beginning of my cookbook collection. My grandmother gave it to me when I was in high school or college, but I had misplaced it and couldn't find it anywhere. How it ended up in Tulsa, I'll never know.

The book was originally a gift to my grandmother from my mom's cousin Annie during a stay in Pecos, TX during the summer of 1964. Strangely enough, the New York Times published a story about Peg Bracken, her four marriages and the success of this strange little book just a couple of weeks ago. Ms. Bracken just passed late last year, her obituary is here.

The Way to My Heart...

...is definitely through my book shelf, specifically my cookbook shelf. My friend Heather came to visit last month for ACL and brought me a lovely little stack of cookbooks for my collection. (Thank you!) Of course, Heather and I go way, WAY back (We were babes in the nursery together and our grandmother's played basketball in high school. Basically, we knew each other before we even knew each other.) and she is a fellow cookbookaholic, so doesn't have to gift her way into my life. But you, dear reader, are you trying to get closer to me but just can't? Are you looking for that special something that will endear me to your forever or for at least two weeks? Vintage cookbooks are the way to go.

Things to consider:
1. Important authors: While I have most of the important texts by Child, Beard, Crocker, Claiborne and others, I don't have all of them. Take a chance, roll the dice--you could come out on top.
2. Illustrations: As an incredibly visual person, I'm oftern drawn more to the photographs or illustrations than text. Initially at least. Look for something specifically indicative of a period. I have a Jell-O cookbook from the 1930s which has the most adorable little deco illustrations of wealthy-looking deco women serving Jell-O. Or their maids serving it. Will I ever make any of those recipes? No, but I do like looking at the pictures.
3. Condition: If it's falling apart, it's probably been loved enough.
4. Hidden secrets: There is nothing I enjoy more than acquiring a cookbook and then finding scraps of recipes inside. Or notes. Or references to other recipes. Those recipe file books? Those are the absolute best.

Domo arigato, Mr. Morimoto

I've received several new cookbooks to review, the most beautiful of which is The New Art of Japanese Cooking by Masaharu Morimoto. You may know this famous chef from Iron Chef America on the Food Network, one of his eponymous restaurants, or his recent appearance on The Martha Stewart Show where he made daikon fettucine. This new publication illustrates how Chef Morimoto stretches the traditional vocabulary of Japanese cuisine to include both Western forms and ingredients. Each recipe, meticulously photographed and detailed, provides introduction to his famous kitchen and innovative palate. Chef Morimoto intersperses recipes with welcome information on the many exotic ingredients and techniques he employs and encourages his reader to try. While many of his ideas are tempting and unusual (like the sushi omelet, frozen lettuce and curried mushroom salad), the one I'm most likely to utilize (or at least borrow from) is the mashed potato soup.

Recipe to try: Mashed Potato Soup with wasabi and chives
1 large baking potato, such as Idaho or russet
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
3/4 cup half-and-half
4 cups Dashi
2 tablespoons saki
3 tablespoons soy sauce
salt
1-ounce caviar, optional
freshly grated wasabi, and finely sliced chives for garnish

Prick the potato in a couple of places and steam over boiling water until the potato is tender when pierced with a knife, 30-35 minutes. Allow to cool, then peel potato and rice the potato or force through a fine sieve into a saucepan.

In a small saucepan, combine the butter and half-and-half. Warm over medium heat until the butter melts and the liquid is steaming.

Place the saucepan of mashed potatoes over low heat, then slowly whisk in the hot butter mixture until potatoes are thick and smooth. Cover to keep warm. Bring the Dashi, sake and soy sauce to a boil over high heat. Spoon equal amounts of the mashed potato into four soup bowls. Gently ladle the hot Dashi over and around the potatoes. Top with a spoonful of caviar and garnish with wasabi and chives.

Mangez?

Reading

I received preview copies of two books the last couple of weeks, both interesting reads you might enjoy at the beach or on your travels this summer.

The first, Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant: Confessions of Cooking for One and Dining Alone, edited by Jenni Ferrari-Adler, is a compilation of various authors perspectives on cooking for themselves. The title of the book comes from an article written by Laurie Colwin about her own experience upon moving to New York and cooking for herself in a small, kitchen-less apartment. The other stories range from spousal indictments for crimes of food snobbery to poignant remembrances of simpler lives over the stove. Because of its nature as treasury of brief tales, it's simple to pick up and put down as your interest and attention span ebbs and flows.

The second book, Street Food: Exploring the World's Most Authentic Tastes by Tom Kime, traces a culinary adventurer as he traverses country and continent in search of compelling street victuals. It's full of interesting recipes and thoughts about various cuisines. While the book's photography (beautiful) and layout (thoughtful) take you from India to Mexico and onto Morocco, the text cries out for larger treatment as the size is quite diminutive. Perfect to cradle as you sit on the porch and fantasize about curries, but too small to hold up and show your passing neighbor what you are considering making for dinner.

Southern Heritage Cookie Jar Cookbook

I'm always on the lookout for cookbooks not represented in my collection and pick things up for different reasons. Sometimes, it's the illustrations that are too great to pass up. On other occasions, the author may be someone important or iconic, and I want the book even though I may never cook out of it. And of course, I actually do pick up cookbooks because I want to use the recipes. That's the case of the latest addition to my library, the Southern Heritage Cookie Jar Cookboo from the publishers of Southern Living which I got while thrift shopping in Owasso, OK.

Admittedly, most of the titles from Southern Living don't have an appeal to me because the recipes within veer too much in the direction of classic American convenience cooking. Occasionally I will find one that is rooted in traditional Southern food ways and worth making, but not often. But this fantastic cookie cookbook is filled with wonderful images that reflect Southern cookie culture in addition to great recipes. If you see it, I suggest you snap it up.

Lately there has been a lot of conversation about Lady Bird Johnson (born Claudia Alta Taylor), widow of the late President L.B. Johnson. Does she really live in a penthouse atop the LBJ Museum and Library? Is she really the person longest protected by the Secret Service? How is she feeling now that she is out of the hospital? Is her brownie recipe better than Katherine Hepburn's? You be the judge, because I'm publishing it here.

Recipe: Lady Bird's Texas Brownies
1/2 cup butter or margarine
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate, melted
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Cream the butter in a big yellow bowl; gradually add sugar, beating well. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well with each addition. Add melted chocolate and beat until blended. Gradually add flour, stirring well. Stir in vanilla and pecans. Pour batter into a greased 8-inch square baking pan.

Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes. Cool brownies completely in pan. Cut into 2-inch squares. Yield: About 1 1/2 dozen.

Postscript: Actually, after looking at the recipes, the only differences are the amount of flour (less in Kate's), the type of nut used (Walnuts vs. pecans which I think was the argument that REALLY started the Civil War.), and the addition of salt in Kate's. I do think a taste test is in order!

I recently received a promotional copy of the book Educating Peter: How I Taught a Famous Movie Critic the Difference Between Cabernet and Merlot or How Anybody Can Become an (Almost) Instant Wine Expert by Lettie Teague and began reading it this morning. Teague is an editor at Food and Wine magazine and produced a monthly column on wine that is fun and a delight to read. It also has clever illustrations of the author, different each month, that are not reflected on the cover the book. Teague is also the amicable ex-wife (According to her column he has been gracious enough to allow her to leave her wine collection in their home until she finds a new place for storage.) of Alan Richman, food critic for GQ and other publications..

The book is a very approachable tome on all aspects of wine, from the perspective of an expert initiating a novice into the life of a oenophile: tasting, varietals, etc., etc. I found the first several chapters full of information and fun to read. It's a great book for anyone wanting some basic information on enjoying wine, without all of the snotty, elitist bunk. My only complaint is the weight of the paper (I admit I'm a paper snob when it comes to books and magazines.), which is light and seems better suited for a nice paperback edition, rather than the hardcover.

Mangez!

Not starving...

...but a little busy. Plus some technical difficulties. Here's a whirlwind update of some fun food things that happened in the past few months:

My friend Gabrielle left Austin for a new job at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego. Everyone in the office got together for a farewell bash at the house. My "contributation" was dessert: a three layered confection of chocolate cake and two different mousses.


Kristina and Gabrielle the night of the fond farewell.


I call it, "Chocolate au Gabrielle." It was inspired by a recipe I saw in a magazine and involved baking a double recipe of the Everyday Chocolate Cake in a 9x13 pan. From that, I cut circles with a biscuit cutter and wrapped them in strips of parchment paper. Then, I piped layers of dark and light chocolate mousse and topped with whipped cream. Sounds mighty rich? It was.

Over Labor Day weekend (yes, I'm that far behind!), I was in Holland, MI at the Monahan Compound. I had to work on Friday night and didn't get in until late on Saturday, but John, David and I still made dinner on Sunday night. John made a red sauce and I used to build a lasagna. We collaborated on a white chocolate raspberry tiramisu that was a perfect ending.


John adds the secret ingredient to his special sauce: a silly glance. I have the recipe somewhere and will post as soon as I find it. Of course, I'll probably be dead after John sees this picture, but oh well! It's not like its a photo of a giant bruise on someone's butt. You'll have to scroll down to see that!


The white chocolate raspberry tiramisu. Actually, I usually refer to it as Terrible Sue. The recipe started with one from Giada De Laurentiis, to which we added melted white chocolate to the whipped cream. It was out of site. John has prepared it again and I am going to in the very near future. Promise.

I also spent some time in Chicago with my friends Michael, Ryan and Emily. Ryan and I had breakfast at Victory's Banner, which is vegetarian restaurant run by sari-wearing cult members. I LOVE a restaurant run by a cult, because you always get great service! Anyway, their leader lifts people. That's just what he does.


Breakfast at Victory's Banner with some of the best eggs you will every taste and, of course, fake bacon.

Leslie's mom Lorna who I met over the summer sent me a wonderful stack of cookbooks from her collection. How did she part with them? I certainly don't know, but I really appreciated the package. (Did I send a note? If not, THANK YOU Lorna! Hope to see you in Austin soon.)


I found the charm book and etiquette book at the thrift store, the rest were gifts from Lorna and Mitchell.

For our first holiday party in Austin, we planned a giant bash with lots of appetizer and a punch bowl full of pomegranate champagne punch. Dessert was an array of dippers and chocolate fondue. Everyone made ornaments for the tree and I had a great time. I thought the food turned out perfect, but the thing I was most proud of was the giant serving piece I concocted from the table: a metal pot holder that Mitchell retrofitted to hold plates!


The tree, in all of its glory.


The table, laden with all kinds of savory treats and a very festive punch.


These pictures just don't do my giant server justice. You had to be there. You SHOULD have been there.


Dessert. An array of dippers for a delicious chocolate fondue.


Plates at the ready.


Everyone making ornaments and enjoying the food.


More ornament making.


David and Danette converse in the kitchen.


Some more peeps partying.

For my birthday, we had a potluck. Everyone brought something delicious and we put two tables together to form a giant one and ran every candlestick in the house down the middle: not enough to equal my age, but still quite a statement.


The candles down the center of the table. I think there were twenty-three.


Birthday fun.

Remember the diva chickens? They are a laying! Joel and Kay brought us some of their bounty: beautiful blue eggs with a rich, yellow yolk. I poached them for breakfast. Superb!


These eggs are a beautiful blue that doesn't quite photograph.


But the yolks. You get the picture? Super fresh eggs from friends. What could be better?


Poached on an English muffin with a little cheese and sausage on the side? A great breakfast. The cinnamon rolls are the orange bliss rolls from Whole Foods and they will certainly make your morning.

Are your eyes full? Is your mind brimming with ideas? I'm glad to be caught up...a little.

Mangez!