Condiments


I guess I write a lot about condiments, because I love them so much; the only person I know with more condiments in their fridge is my friend Michael in Chicago! While I have gone on and on about mustard, Sriracha and various little bottles of deliciousness, I thought I would highlight a couple of others you should consider adding to your pantry to use regularly.

Heinz Chile Sauce
One of Heinz's classics, this is ketchup with a slight kick. Enjoy it with sweet potato fries or mix with with mayonnaise for a creamy, spicy dipping sauce.  Many people also use it as a 'secret' ingredient in cocktail sauce.

Pickapeppa Sauce
A Jamaican original since 1921, Pickapeppa is like Worcestershire sauce with a little something extra. It has flavors of citrus and the oak barrels it's aged in, so brings that umami essence everyone likes to talk so much about. Basically, you can add it to anything savory. Or try the classic, 'Big Easy' which is Pickapeppa on cream cheese...just add crackers.

Cholula Lime
Cholula is a hot sauce from a recipe that claims to be over 100 years old, produced by three generations. It's been available is the US for about 20 years and is delicious on everything. I literally put it on everything. But they've added some new flavors profiles, including one with lime which is delicious on tacos, burritos, soup, i.e. on everything. Look for the green wooden top instead of the traditional blond wood one.

Herdez Salsa
A friend introduced me to Herdez salsa while I was living in Wichita; she was addicted to the green salsa they produce. I do love it, but their salsa casera is also delicious. It's what I think of as a more traditional Mexican salsa--perhaps made without the tamato sauce that is the basis of many produced in the US? So even though it is a jarred salsa, it seems very fresh. It fries up perfectly for chilaquiles and is the perfect addition to your favorite tacos.

Now, back to mustard...

Mustard

When you hear mustard, you probably think of a squeeze of bright yellow on top of your hot dog at the ballpark. It is, at the same time, one of the most common and exotic condiments you may have in your fridge. Mustard has been used in the cuisines of cultures around the world since ancient times, but it was the Romans who mixed it with a base form of vinegar to create the first 'prepared' mustard.  At its most basic, mustard is made from the seeds of the mustard plant that have been ground and mixed with vinegar and other spices; it can be subtle or bring tears to your eyes.  Classic yellow mustard is made from a very fine ground of seeds, while Dijon and other coarse ground mustards have more of the whole seeds in them. You can, of course, buy mustard prepared, or in the seed or powder form.

I guess I am a little obsessed with mustard; it's my favorite condiment and always has been. Even as a child, I preferred it's spicy flavor with my sandwiches. Mayonnaise (or Miracle Whip, as was served in our house) was great in chicken salad and ketchup was a must for fries, but if it was a burger or sandwich, I wanted mustard.  But don't relegate mustard to just your lunch, it has many other fantastic uses in the kitchen, bringing its bright, piquant flavor to an array of dishes. 

1. First of all, let's talk vinaigrette. A tablespoon of mustard added at the beginning of your preparation helps to bind and emulsify the dressing, plus adds tangy flavor. I prefer to use a whole grain mustard for vinaigrettes, and my go-to is actually a hot and spicy variety from Woeber's:

They have been making mustards for over 100 years and sell a variety of styles and flavors.  I am always looking at different mustards at the store and just found another from them, Mister Mustard, which is smooth and hot, plus has a super cute label.


2. Sauces. A mustard dill sauces is a classic for fish, but could be used to lift any protein from the simple to the superb.  And mustard is often the hidden star of many barbecue sauces.  I would say that mustard is the secret ingredient in Mildred's Bakes Beans (plus loads of garlic) that keep them from being simpering and sweet--and it's the recipe I'm always asked for.

3. With potatoes.  Yes, everyone loves a creamy potato salad, but I bet you can talk people into loving a mustardy potato salad!  Just say, "it's potato salad" and let them figure out why it's so delicious on their own.

4. A dipping sauce.  Sure, any mustard is great for dipping your corn dog in, but this mustard sauce will be delicious with just about anything from nuggets to meatballs, fried tofu to sweet potato fries.  I've served it at more than one party...

Recipe: Apricot Dipping Sauce
1/2 cup apricot preserves
1 tbsp. water
2 tsp. lime juice
1 tsp. Dijon or coarse-ground mustard
1/4 tsp. minced fresh ginger

Puree all ingredients in a blender until smooth.  Simply and delicious.

5.  When I say, 'bloody,' you say?  Mary!  The Cajun Bloody Mary is just one in a long list of drink recipes at Saveur, but it delicious and again mustard is the supporting actress that makes it so successful. 

6. Mustard caviar.  What?!  It's not really caviar, but in this recipe, mustard seeds are plumped in vinegar so they pop in the mouth like caviar, adding instant zing to a recipe.  I haven't made this yet, but it is the list to try and I am imagining it as a capricious garnish to my favorite deviled egg recipe, which of course is made with mustard--and dill!  Or perhaps with my mushroom pâté?

So whatever you're making, think about how a little bit of mustard might add just the right touch to you recipe...


Pizza

One of my favorite finds at the HEB (here, everything is better) in Midland has been the house brand thin and crispy pizza crusts. Perhaps they have a regular brand at your store, but HEB stocks three different varieties in the larger size, including whole wheat, plus a three pack of individual sized crusts in original and whole wheat. If you love a thin pizza crust--and I do!--then these are for you. Just top with some sauce, your favorite toppings and bake for 10 minutes. Since they are par-baked, that's all it takes. Include some veggies and a green salad on the side, and you have a quick and pretty healthy dinner on the table in just a few minutes.

We had some leftovers seitan, so tonight we experimented with a BBQ chick-un pizza topped with sauce, garlic and thinly sliced onions. It was messy, like BBQ is supposed to be, but it was quite delicious!


 

Ingredient: Harvest Grain Blend from Trader Joe's

Friday, Ellie and I took the afternoon off and made a run for Indianapolis. Tori Amos live in concert was the impetus for the trip, but we also had a blast shopping at Trader Joe's, Target, Whole Foods and Sur la Table. (I bought square biscuit cutters. Ellie thought they were unorthodox, but I was thinking of them as a time-saving device: you can cut all of the biscuits at once and don't have to pat the dough back out!)

I know you're all dying to know what Tori had for dinner, but I have no idea. I'm imagining she dined on something light and delicate, light sauteed greens with some sort of seasonal vegetable. Maybe broccoli? On the last album, she sang:

"Eat your greens
Feed your head
Mind the doubts
they harvest them
Broccoli
Feed your head
Their ideas
are fried in fat."

So I'm going to stick with my answer and assume she doesn't keep in good enough shape to jump around on those pianos by dining nightly on fried chicken. Now, what she wore is another store, I can tell you that:
  • Cork platform, black satin, peep-toe stilettos.
  • Gold leggings.
  • An orange dress with purple details, including a stripe that ran down the back. It was short in the front and long in the back (a mullet dress?) with long sleeves and puffy shoulders.
As usual, she looked like superhero goddess come to save us all. More photos here.

But food...

At Trader Joe's, Ellie bought several bags of the Harvest Grains Blend: Israeli couscous, baby garbanzo beans, orzo and red quinoa. Very exotic! I had to try it, so I grabbed a bag. It's easy to prepare, just simmer in a little vegetable broth and a bit of butter. But, I do recommend stirring it a little as it simmers, as mine sunk to the bottom and I had some crispy bits to contend with after I was done. It smelled delicious while cooking and I love the idea of baby garbanzo beans. How do they do that? Cut down in their prime.

After it was cooked, I made a simple vinaigrette and added pan-fried (vegan) Italian sausages, about 1/3 cup of dried cranberries and 1/3 cup of walnuts, then topped it with some fresh oregano that Jimmy brought us yesterday from his herb garden. Lunch tomorrow is going to be delicious! I will hum Tori as I dine on this delicious concoction.

Wichita Asian Market

I always love to stop into Thai Binh when I'm in Wichita--one of my favorite Asian markets. They've remodeled since I left the city and you never know what you are going to find! I was hoping to stock up on to-go soup containers they usually stock, which I use for ice cream when I'm taking it to a friend. Alas, there were none to be had. Oh well, we had lots of fun looking at all of the wonderful things and I did come away with a treasure.

What are these? Some sort of dock from another planet? Strange, beautiful and magnificent.

The decor items at Thai Binh are all about more, as in 'more is more, less is a bore.' It's certainly an aesthetic I appreciate.

I had been researching a substitute for fish sauce to use in Asian recipes, and several sources noted that it is possible to find a vegetarian fish sauce at some Vietnamese markets. Lo and behold, after careful look there it was on the shelf. So, now I have enough fish sauce to last me for....a decade? Who knows. It's still so high in sodium you only need a little. I haven't tried it yet, but I'll report back after I use it in a recipe.

Ingredients: Barilla No Cook Lasagna Noodles

I think one of the first things I learned to make from my mother was lasagna. It was a great skill to find and very empowering: with lasagna you can feed a crowd and if you keep the flavors basic, it's usually something everyone enjoys. Some bread and salad, a little something for dessert: instant dinner party. It couldn't be easier, could it? In fact, I remember my first 'dinner party' in my apartment in Norman, OK when I was at OU and I'm sure I served lasagna. I know it's not the same lasagna I make today, and imagine it was probably filled with a meaty sauce, but the principles remain the same.

But, I eventually figured out it could be easier. One way in which I have varied my recipe from the method Barbara taught me is the no-cook method I've been using for years. It's pretty simple, you use conventional noodles, but don't boil them, adding extra liquid to the sauce. They cook as the lasagna bakes and its comes out perfectly. I can put together a lasagna in less that thirty minutes and have it out of the oven in an hour, resting and ready to go while salad is being passed.

So you are probably wondering why I would mess with success? Why alter a recipe/process that's served me for almost twenty years? I read somewhere that the oven ready noodles Barilla produces have a superior flavor and texture than conventional noodles, but were just as easy to use. The difference? Barilla Oven Ready Lasagne Noodles are made with egg, so the pasta is lighter, more delicate and great for baking.

I tried it. I even did four layers of lasagna instead of three. And what I read was correct, the Barilla noodles are light and taste almost like fresh pasta sheets rolled out at home. It's easy to do, but according to Barilla you need about eight cups of sauce to accomplish the four-layer version. So, if you're trying to think of something to serve for dinner for your family or friends, throw together a simple lasagna using Barilla noodles that will please everyone.

My other lasagna tip: toasted, slivered almonds in each layer. A surprising ingredient, they add texture and their wonderful nutty flavor to the classic Italian melange. I'll provide my full recipe for lasagna using the Barilla noodles later, but I'm sure you have one you enjoy that could be adapted easily using this product. From my kitchen to yours...

Recipe: Crispy Baked Kale

Last year, Katie was mad for baked kale. I remember her talking about how satisfying it was, crispy and salty. But I never attempted it, until this weekend. One of the food magazines had a recipe for it last month, which reminded me of Katie's then obsession (she was on Brussel sprouts last time I checked. And salmon, but has probably moved onto something else delicious by now.) and I decided to try it for myself.

I think this is the perfect starter for cocktails, the one you are always looking for. There are always creamy dips or an array of cheeses, and a million different nuts to choose from. But sometimes you are looking for something to round those choices out, something green and light. This is the recipe. It surprises people and they will say, "It tastes like potato chips!" happily munching on a piece of kale. On a piece of kale!

The recipe itself is the essence of simplicity, the most difficult part being the removal of the ribs from the leaves. I simply place all of the washed, dried and rib-free leaves on a baking sheet and give them all a good spray of olive oil (you can buy Pam-style olive oil spray now, or you may have one of those fancy misters that does the trick) then a sprinkle of salt. Turn, repeat, then bake in a low over for about thirty minutes. Delicious and good for you. You could also add some spices to the salt, perhaps a little red pepper or cayenne? A little lemon would also be nice.

Recipe: Kentucky Fried Kale in your Easy Bake Oven
1 bunch of kale (curly, Tuscan or otherwise)
olive oil (preferably in a spray can)
coarse sea salt
  • Preheat oven 250 degrees.
  • Wash and dry the kale, then cut each piece down the middle, removing the ribs.
  • Place the kale on a baking sheet, lined with parchment paper for easy clean up.
  • Spray lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Flip the leaves and repeat.
  • Bake for 30-33 minutes, until light and crispy.
Mangez!

Eating and Shopping in OKC

Last weekend I made a quick trip to Norman, OK to visit my friend Stephanie and see some other pals. We set off a thrifting adventure, then stopped into Super Cao Nguyen Market for something to eat and got sucked in the most wondrous, amazing Asian market I have ever seen. And I have been in many, MANY Asian markets.

At the front of the store they had an enormous section filled with Buddhas, Virgins, Jesi (the plural of Jesus is Jesi, right? I mean, would you say Jesuses? I wouldn't.) and more Quan Yins than you could count. While this amazing display might look like the altar of the store, it's actually just a display. The more modest resident altar is discreetly tucked away by the entrance. Blink and you'll miss it.

This lovely, lovely Quan Yin (available in various sizes and even in solid pink) has a bisque finish and stands upon a pink lotus flower. The store was packed with them and I wanted to load up the whole basket with every last one.

The beauty of the Asian market isn't found simply in statues and art objects, but in every little packaging detail you encounter. For your consideration: parrot soap, pigeon mushrooms and baby corn.

And stainless steel Chinese soup spoons! These are really one of my most favorite things. They look great on the table and can be used as a conventional utensil or piled high with some savory treat, hors d'oeuvres, or an amuse bouche. If you find these, buy several sets because they are inexpensive and you will grow to love them.

We also encountered lots of French and German items, such as these candy sprinkles in a repetitively dramatic display. Stephanie said her mom had been searching for these and now she knows where to find them.

And let us not forget grooming! The nose tweezers look dangerous, but we were fascinated by the packaging.

Then we did some actual eating. Stephanie had some shrimp spring rolls and I opted for a vegetarian bahn mi which was delicious. Perrier? Well, Vietnam was a French Colony. So bring on the sparkling water, spring rolls and delicious sandwiches on crusty French bread!

Saturday night, Stephanie and I threw together a little meal for some friends. We made my easy, breezy peanut noodles with all sorts of different add-ins, some sauteed baby bok choy, egg rolls from Costco and some dumplings.

For dessert? Delicious, creamy, wonderful cupcakes from Central Market.

Here's the recipe for my peanut noodles, reprinted from a couple of years ago.

Recipe: Spicy Peanut Noodles
1/2 cup peanut butter (I use Peter Pan Plus 8)
2/3 cup tamari soy sauce
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup Oriental sesame oil
4 heaping spoonfuls of minced garlic
2 tsp. minced fresh ginger (lazy me uses the bottled stuff)
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

24 oz. udon noodles (or plain spaghetti works just fine)

Cook the noodles per directions, but you want it a little chewy--not too done. Drain and cool. Meanwhile, combine all the other ingredients in a large bowl (I use an 8-cup measuring cup.) with a whisk until smooth. Place cooled noodles in a large serving bowl, pour sauce over and toss to coat. You want to prepare this a couple of hours ahead and then allow to chill in the fridge-that way the noodles soak up all the peanutty goodness. Bring to room temperature and you may need to add a little warm water to the noodles as you toss to loosen. Garnish as desired. Doubles easily.