Mustard

When you hear mustard, you probably think of a squeeze of bright yellow on top of your hot dog at the ballpark. It is, at the same time, one of the most common and exotic condiments you may have in your fridge. Mustard has been used in the cuisines of cultures around the world since ancient times, but it was the Romans who mixed it with a base form of vinegar to create the first 'prepared' mustard.  At its most basic, mustard is made from the seeds of the mustard plant that have been ground and mixed with vinegar and other spices; it can be subtle or bring tears to your eyes.  Classic yellow mustard is made from a very fine ground of seeds, while Dijon and other coarse ground mustards have more of the whole seeds in them. You can, of course, buy mustard prepared, or in the seed or powder form.

I guess I am a little obsessed with mustard; it's my favorite condiment and always has been. Even as a child, I preferred it's spicy flavor with my sandwiches. Mayonnaise (or Miracle Whip, as was served in our house) was great in chicken salad and ketchup was a must for fries, but if it was a burger or sandwich, I wanted mustard.  But don't relegate mustard to just your lunch, it has many other fantastic uses in the kitchen, bringing its bright, piquant flavor to an array of dishes. 

1. First of all, let's talk vinaigrette. A tablespoon of mustard added at the beginning of your preparation helps to bind and emulsify the dressing, plus adds tangy flavor. I prefer to use a whole grain mustard for vinaigrettes, and my go-to is actually a hot and spicy variety from Woeber's:

They have been making mustards for over 100 years and sell a variety of styles and flavors.  I am always looking at different mustards at the store and just found another from them, Mister Mustard, which is smooth and hot, plus has a super cute label.


2. Sauces. A mustard dill sauces is a classic for fish, but could be used to lift any protein from the simple to the superb.  And mustard is often the hidden star of many barbecue sauces.  I would say that mustard is the secret ingredient in Mildred's Bakes Beans (plus loads of garlic) that keep them from being simpering and sweet--and it's the recipe I'm always asked for.

3. With potatoes.  Yes, everyone loves a creamy potato salad, but I bet you can talk people into loving a mustardy potato salad!  Just say, "it's potato salad" and let them figure out why it's so delicious on their own.

4. A dipping sauce.  Sure, any mustard is great for dipping your corn dog in, but this mustard sauce will be delicious with just about anything from nuggets to meatballs, fried tofu to sweet potato fries.  I've served it at more than one party...

Recipe: Apricot Dipping Sauce
1/2 cup apricot preserves
1 tbsp. water
2 tsp. lime juice
1 tsp. Dijon or coarse-ground mustard
1/4 tsp. minced fresh ginger

Puree all ingredients in a blender until smooth.  Simply and delicious.

5.  When I say, 'bloody,' you say?  Mary!  The Cajun Bloody Mary is just one in a long list of drink recipes at Saveur, but it delicious and again mustard is the supporting actress that makes it so successful. 

6. Mustard caviar.  What?!  It's not really caviar, but in this recipe, mustard seeds are plumped in vinegar so they pop in the mouth like caviar, adding instant zing to a recipe.  I haven't made this yet, but it is the list to try and I am imagining it as a capricious garnish to my favorite deviled egg recipe, which of course is made with mustard--and dill!  Or perhaps with my mushroom pâté?

So whatever you're making, think about how a little bit of mustard might add just the right touch to you recipe...


Recipe: Mustard Potato Salad (for a crowd)

I put this recipe together for my friends Melissa and Shane, who left Monday for Kentucky. Stephanie and Jonah hosted a great good-bye bash in their yard and we all enjoyed burgers, salads, watermelon push pops and an array of pies. Yum. And sniff. I also made Mildred's Baked Beans, a personal favorite.

Recipe: Mustard Potato Salad

For the vinaigrette
:
3 tablespoons favorite mustard (not yellow)
3 tablespoons Champagne wine vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
2-3 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

6 pounds red potatoes, cleaned and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
6 green onions, thinly sliced
Faux bacon bits (Such as Bac-uns from Whole Foods)

Bring a large pot and a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the onion for 1-2 minutes, then run under cold water to stop the cooking. Cook the potatoes, stirring occasionally, until they are just tender. About 12-15 minutes. Run under cold water to stop the cooking.

In the meantime, in a big yellow bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil and whisk until emulsified. Add the potatoes, onion, green onion, tarragon and Bac-uns if using. Toss to combine, then taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper. Chill for at least an hour, but overnight if you wish, to let the flavors meld. Then bring to room temperature, toss again and adjust seasoning.

Recipe: Eggless/Tofu/Sandwich Salad

When I first became a vegetarian, I had the darnedest time understanding tofu. Lots of books suggested great ideas for using it, but I had no idea how to prepare it. I would buy the wrong type, prepare it the wrong way and end up with some odd-sort-of good something.

And there were mixes and recipes for 'eggless' salad and I tried to enjoy them, but never came up with something that was really....delicious. After lots of trial and error, I've finally come with a preparation and recipe that you won't be able to stop eating. The key here is how you deal with the tofu, the rest can be handled according to taste. I love the strong flavor of dry mustard and lots of relish, so this recipe leans that way. Like something creamier? Use more mayo. Want something cruchier? Add more celery. Suit yourself.

To prepare the tofu:
Buy a tub of Chinese-style tofu packed in water: don't buy the smoother, Japanese-style sold in aseptic containers. Get extra-firm and organic, if you can find it. Place the tofu in its container in the freezer and leave it there overnight to freeze. That's right: you've got to start this part a day or two ahead. Freezing the tofu magically transforms it, making it firmer and chewier.

Next morning, put the tofu out to thaw. Once it's completely thawed, drain off the water and press as much water out as you can. Next, slice the tofu into six slices. Using a couple of layers of paper towels and working with two pieces at a time, squeeze as much water out of the slices as you can. The more water out, the more flavoring gets in.

Now, here's the recipe for the salad...

Recipe: Happy Sandwich Salad

3 ribs celery, sliced horizontally in three pieces and cut on the diagonal into quarter-inch pieces
3/4 cup mayonnaise or mayonnaise style product (I use a soy product, but its up to you.)*
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. tumeric (in addition to giving the salad a great yellow color, tumeric is great for you.)
1 1/2 tsp. dry mustard (use less if you want a milder flavor)
A large pinch of cayenne
1 14-oz package of Chinese-style tofu prepared as described above
4-5 tbsp of sweet pickle relish (if you like it)

In a big yellow bowl, combine the celery with the next five ingredients, stirring to blend. Using your finger, crumble the dried tofu slices into the mixture and fold until well-mixed. Add the pickle relish and stir to combine. Season with salt and freshly-ground pepper, taste and check for seasoning. This is delicious as soon as its prepared, but even better after it sits in the refrigerator overnight. Serve on toast, in a wrap, on a bed of greens or just on a spoon from the bowl.

For my next batch, I am going to substituted finely chopped hot pickled okra for the relish and lemon. It think it will give the salad a briny kick and fiery bite that will be delicious. We'll see.

*I've updated the recipe with a little more mayo, realizing I use a heaping 1/2 cup (more like 3/4 cup) rather than a perfect 1/2 cup. But, to your taste of course!

Eating: Sliders

Why should omnivores get to have all of the fun? They are building a White Castle here in Terre Haute, but there is absolutely nothing on the menu pour moi. Burger King has a veggie burger, which I'm grateful for when traveling, but not veggie versions of their new 'burger shots.'

No worries, as I am creative and happy to suit myself. I had some hot dog buns in the larder that were lacking the matching veggie hot dogs, so I cut each put into three mini-hamburger-bun-sized pieces--there was just a little of each leftover. Next, I popped some veggie meatballs in the oven and set out to dress my baby veggie burgers, clockwise from the bowl:

  • Refrigerator pickles (onion, cucumber and carrot) that Mitchell made last week--on the plate for a little garnish on the burgers of my choice
  • Some baby spring mix to add to the burgers
  • Sriracha mayonnaise
  • Green chili mayonnaise
  • Tomato sauce and mozzarella
  • BBQ
  • Heinz organic ketchup
  • Spicy mustard spread in the middle
Delicious and fun!

Food: Mustard

I have always loved mustard. I don't remember a time in my life when I didn't want it on everything. Like a lot of kids, I had basic tastes when it came to some foods, but I was never one of those who would only eat ketchup or mayo. I wanted mustard. I wanted spice and flavor and yellow goodness.

The only thing that has changed about me and mustard is that now I want more flavor, variety and taste. I want German-style mustard, brown mustard, Chinese mustard, garlic mustard, so on and so on and so on. There are usually at least three kinds of mustard in the fridge at any given time. And my favorite right now? Woeber's Hot and Spicy Mustard. It is delicious and I have tried it: in salad dressings, on hot dogs, with pretzels and in breading for my chicken patties. Delicious on all counts.

Don't like mustard? Too bad, you won't like this strong mustard flavor followed by the bite of little red flecks of peppers. Like mustard? You'll love this and want to have it on everything. Woebers has several other varieties to try as well: next trip to the market, I'm buying sweet and spicy.