Friendly Little Dinner

Entertaining isn't something we do as frequently as we used to, probably because we are still making friends here and also because work and life in general is very busy. I remember a time when we had friends over for dinner at least once a week, sometimes for last-minute dinner parties but other times for overly-detailed celebrations. Now, we probably only host two or three times a year, so when we do, you know I pull out every stop; consider the use of every dish, plate, sherbet or goblet; and pour over every recipe that has been waiting in the wings.

When our friends Gab and Kristina came in from Boston, MA and Dallas, TX for a quick trip to Marfa and Fort Davis, I put a lot of thought into each of the six courses (yes, six), not just what I would serve, but also in what I would serve each culinary creation...food photos courtesy of Gab, one of our guests!

To start:
Mustard-marscarpone spread with toasts, sesame sticks, bread sticks, assorted olives and almonds served in the little black lotus bowls with the black tidbit plates.

First course:
Double-baked three-cheese soufflé served in individual cast iron skillets with a white, Rosenthal under plate.

Salad course:
Butter lettuce with a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on white, Rosenthal salad plates.

Main course:
Homemade bucatini with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese in the oddly shaped pasta bowls.

Intermezzo:
Basil gelato in the chartreuse Russel Wright sherbets.

Dessert:
Easy candy bar tart on the patterned, Rosenthal dessert plates.

If I say so myself, everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time talking and catching up over the course of the meal. The only thing I felt like need some tweaking was the salad dressing, which was a little on the sour side--but the citrus, red pepper and oregano were a great flavor combination and will probably become something else in the kitchen.  The gelato and pomodoro were of my own devising, so there are a couple of recipes for you to try.

Recipe: Basil Gelato
I use corn starch to thicken my gelato, although many recipes use eggs instead. This recipe is the perfect thing to bridge an Italian main course and dessert; its first taste is sweet, which is replaced with a strong herbaceous flavor and ends with the spicy note of basil. Affected? Yes, but effective.


2 cups basil leaves
3 cups milk
3 tbsp corn starch
¾ cup sugar
1 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. salt

Combine basil, 2 1/2 cups milk, sugar, zest and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a two quart saucepan and heat gently until sugar dissolves.  In the meantime, combine the remaining milk with the cornstarch and whisk to form a slurry.  Continuing heating the basil-milk mixture until it begins to steam; stir in the slurry and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened.  Remove from heat and pour through a fine strainer; chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or for best performance with your ice cream maker, overnight.  Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves.

Makes about one quart of gelato.

Recipe: Pasta al Pomodoro
Everyone has a favorite red sauce and it may come from a jar--there are so many good-quality brands out there it is easy to find several you like. Lately, I've been trying to find my own perfect recipe and have tried every trick, idea or suggestion. My version combines slowly cooked onion, garlic, tomato sauce and great canned tomatoes to make a delicious sauce. My secret ingredient? Fennel pollen. My secret tool? Using the immersion blender for a smooth, delicious sauce.

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes or whole tomatoes, use a very good brand
1 8-ounce can of tomato sauce
Pinch of fennel pollen
Kosher salt
3 large fresh basil sprigs

To assemble:
12 ounces bucatini or spaghetti
2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving.  You'll want more!

Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2-4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute more. Increase heat to medium, add tomatoes, sauce and season lightly with kosher salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens a little, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil sprigs, cover and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour.  Remove basil, purée with an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender, until very smooth.

When you're ready to serve, bring water to a boil in a large. Season with salt; add spaghetti or bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally, until not quite tender. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water, then drain pasta.

Bring pasta back to a simmer, add pasta and some of the pasta water; cook, stirring, until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove pan from heat; add butter and cheese; toss until cheese melts. Serve with more cheese, if desired.  It will be desired!

Serves fours.  The sauce can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd or to have some to save for later.  I added chopped green and kalamata olives, four extra cloves of minced garlic and 1 tsp. of red pepper flakes to my leftovers for a spicy, easy 'puttanesca.' 

Accoutrement

For my birthday, I received a stash of cooking and entertaining accoutrement from friends and family...

I picked out this serving set when I was shopping with mom sometime last year, but had completely forgotten about them. I think the proportion of eat; short and kind of fat, I think they'll great with a lot of my dishes, but especially the Paul McCobb.

I had been wanting a salt pig for while, but have never wanted to dedicate the counter space to one. So, when Crate and Barrel came out with these baby salt pigs, I was smitten. I have already had one for plain and one for black lava salt, so I put smoked salt in the third. I have to refill the plain one more than I probably want to, but I still appreciate the diminutive size. Likewise, I don't mash up things with a mortar and pestle often enough to have a giant one, but this tiny example is perfect for a few spices or maybe a clove of garlic. It's so cute, it should have a little smiley face on it.

Jimmy & Ellie gave me a couple of very thoughtful gifts...

This brilliant creamer and sugar was designed by Russel Wright and matches my new set of dishes found over the holidays. The creamer is the lid of the sugar bowl, saving precious table (or cabinet) space. Ingenious. And, it is the covetous 'Pink Sherbet.'

This amazing item is probably a bread server? It has a small basket inside to keep whatever you put in it suspended and away from the wall of the sphere. It's also designed by Russel Wright and is what I would consider to be a very rare example of his spun aluminum creations. I don't have any in my collection and have personally only seen them in museum exhibitions like the one the Wolfsonian organized several years ago about design and aluminum. Does it remind you of anyone? From Sesame Street??

Wonderful presents; wonderful surprise party; wonderful friends and family.

Thank you!

Arsenal (aka Batterie de Cuisine)

What is the arsenal? No, I do not have a gun safe or keep them secreted away behind the walls. For me, the arsenal is about entertaining or preparing food. The tools needed for making or serving something, for making the table look nice. As you all know, I love adding special things to the arsenal, things that inspire recipes or menu selections. Here are few recent additions:

Never pass up tongs. Never, ever pass up tongs on sale! These are great for pickly things, olives or other tiny bites on the table. I love bamboo tongs (I have a couple from my Grandmother's arsenal), but these stainless steel ones are fab.

More salad servers! I posted six different salad servers here almost a year ago, and that wasn't all of them. Yes reader, I was holding out on you. David sent this new set from West Elm and they look fantastic in the oddly shaped, dark brown salad bowl. I like to see something new, and these were definitely new.

Let them eat cake! And pie! I love melamine. It is one of my favorite materials, so this melamine pie and cake server set from IKEA was impossible to resist. The edges are surprisingly sharp as well. Perfect for whatever dessert you are planning to serve.

Mitchell nabbed these lovely little place card holders from the boutique at our recent fundraiser. They are glass and from Czechoslovakia. Very unique and will look fantastique on a spring table.

Jimmy and Ellie brought this lovely dish back to us from their trip to Maryland. I love it's organic qualities, plus the matte glaze is probably my favorite when it comes to pottery. AND, I had admired it at their house. Very thoughtful!