Scurry

In West Texas, spring has sprung: the weather is doing that back and forth thing, but most days are lovely; the trees and bushes, including the red buds, are starting to peek out; and my stomach is yearning for something besides winter foods. But, there is still a chill in the air in the evenings, so I also want something warming. What to do?

Vegetable curry! There are a million curries in the naked city, but this one is simple, delicious and straddles the seasons well by combining root vegetables with those skinny little green beans that are so very yummy. And the gravy? It's tomato-based, simmered with ginger, garlic, pepper and spices and married to a healthy dose of (light) coconut milk for a creamy finish perfect with rice or sopped up with some naan. Leftovers? You'll have a few to see you through a couple of lunches for the week. Plus, this recipe is easily adapted to whatever veggies you like or have on hand. Enjoy.


Recipe: Delicious Vegetable Currrrrry

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 jalapeno, seeded and cut into thin strips
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 1/2 tsp cumin
1 1/2 tsp coriander
1/2 tsp chili powder
1, 16 oz can petite diced tomatoes with juice
1, 16 oz can tomato purée
1, 16 oz can garbanzo bean, drained and well rinsed
One 14-ounce can light coconut milk
3 carrots, peeled, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound small green beans, cut into thirds
Salt and pepper to taste
Cilantro for garnish
Brown rice for serving


In a large, dutch oven, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook for five minutes, until it begins to soften. Add the ginger, jalapeno and garlic and cook over moderate heat until softened, about another five minutes. Add the spices cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant; about two minutes

Add the tomatoes and tomato puree and cook for five minutes, until the tomatoes begin to soften. Add the coconut milk, season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer.

Add the carrots and sweet potatoes, cover loosely and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the green beans and garbanzo beans, cover and simmer until all the vegetables are tender, about 10-15 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the season. Serve with brown rice and garnish with cilantro.

Six servings.

Green Chile Pasta

When we were in Mexico a couple of years ago, we had dinner at a little Italian place, twice I think--it was either that or another quesadilla!  They served an avocado pasta sauce that somehow blended the ingredients of the Yucatan with the cuisine of Italy. It was more than memorable, it was unique and special. Unforgettable.

I haven't tried to recreate it, but the idea has lingered in my mind. And the other day I was thinking about those green chiles in my freezer, the avocado sauce, citrus...and a creamy pasta sauce. This was my first attempt, but I think it turned out very well...



Recipe: Green Chile-Avocado Pasta Sauce
The subtle heat and buttery flavor of the Hatch chiles is emphasized by the avocado and lime. Utterly delicious and decadent.

Ingredients
1 lb. bow tie or linguine pasta
6-7 Hatch (Anaheim) green chiles, roasted, seeded and skinned (you should be able to find those in your freezer if you went to all of that trouble earlier in the year.)
1 large avocado, seeded, diced and skinned
Zest and juice of one lime
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 oz. cream cheese (This is what I did with the leftover from the Hot Onion Soufflé!)
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup cilantro, thick stems removed
1 Serrano pepper, halved and seeded, cut into large pieces
Salt to taste

Directions
Cook pasta according to directions on the package. In a food processor, combine all the other ingredients and process until smooth. Once pasta is cooked, reserve 1/2 cup pasta water, drain and stir in sauce. Add pasta water until a smooth, creamy consistency is reached. Taste and adjust seasoning.

I added a can a drained and rinsed garbanzo beans, but you could choose any protein you might like.


How Very Entertaining

 
 
We haven't done a lot of entertaining since moving west.  Work is always busy, plus there is a lot of travel and then we don't have many friends here yet.  But, we had a few friends over for cocktails on Saturday night and it was very enjoyable.  We had gone to the effort to decorate for the holidays, so it was nice to share the season plus fun to plan the food and service.  Of course, that meant digging into storage, because a lot of the entertaining accoutrement is still in boxes due to lack of space.  Or maybe it is due to having too much stuff!
Regardless, it was fun and I planned a simple menu with a few favorites to share.  For drinks, we had wine, a seasonal beer flavored with ginger and pomegranate Manhattans.  Now, I love a classic Manhattan, preferably on the rocks--but I will also enjoy them straight up.  However, one Christmas when a blizzard trapped us in Omaha, I took solace in the delicious pomegranate Manhattans served in our hotel bar.  The secret?  Pama liqueur which you simply substitute for the sweet vermouth.  You can garnish with fresh pomegranate if you like or stick to the traditional cherry and orange twist.  Very festive for the holidays!

Recipe: Pomegranate Manhattan
3 parts bourbon
1 part Pama liqueur
1 dash Angustora bitters per drink

Combine in a pitcher, stir gently to combine.  Serve over ice garnished with a cherry and twist of orange.  It's a simple proportion that allows you to make a little or a lot.  I like Weller's bourbon, but use what you like.

For eats, I pulled out some standards: Mushroom Pecan Pâté, Baked Artichoke Hearts and Hot Onion Soufflé to which I added a selection of cheeses, almonds, olives, my favorite bread sticks, crackers and some pickly things including dad's pickled okra, little cornichons and some carrot slices I made.  I just realized that although I have mentioned it repeatedly in posts, I've never shared the recipe for my Hot Onion Soufflé here, so I'm doing that now.  It's a favorite and couldn't be simpler.  I've tweaked the recipe a little over the years, but this is where it currently stands.


Recipe: Hot Onion Soufflé
20 oz. of cream cheese, softened  (That's two and half 8 oz. packages, what you do with the rest of that third 8 oz. package is between you and your god.)
4 oz. of plain goat cheese, softened
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
Pinch of salt
2 cups grated Parmesan cheese (get the good stuff) plus a little more for the top
14 oz. bag of frozen, chopped onion, thawed and water squeezed out in a colander or dishtowel

Okay, first you're asking yourself: why would I buy frozen, chopped onion?  Can't I just use fresh?  Well, yes, of course you can, but that is the beauty of this delicious crowd-pleaser: you don't even have to chop onions!

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees.  In a big yellow bowl, combine the cream cheese, goat cheese, mayonnaise, onion powder, garlic powder and salt.  Mix with a wooden spoon until combined.  Now you may think, "I'll just use my silicone spatula to mix this up," but save yourself the trouble and use a wooden spoon like I said.  It's not difficult to mix this together, but using the right tool specified by the author does make it a little easier.  Once that is smooth and creamy, add the onion and Parmesan cheese and continue to mix until well combined.  Taste and adjust seasoning.

Now here is where you have to make a decision: conventially, I usually put this in a glass pie plate, top it with more grated Parmesan cheese and bake it for about 20 minutes or until the top is golden and the entire thing is a bubbly, lava pit of creamy cheese.  But, if you're planning on serving it at a cocktail party with several waves of people, you can divide it between two dishes as I did with the small cast-iron skillets above to have one on the table and other in reserve.  Either way, you want a dish that is on the shallow side to increase the ratio of delicious browned topping to creamy, molten interior.

At this point, you're thinking, "This all sounds delicious and simple, but what do I serve it with?" And that my friend is the easiest thing of all: Hot Onion Soufflé is good on anything, from crackers to toast points.  But, I have learned by serving it with anything and everything, it is absolutely best on...Frito scoops.  Yes, Fritos.  Perhaps you think you're too classy to serve Fritos at a cocktail party?!  You're a foodie and you would never serve a dip made with cream cheese that also contains powdered onion and garlic the author is suggesting you serve with some chip you can buy anywhere and isn't even some artisnal item from a small-batch producer in northern California.  Well, I am not too classy.  And let me tell you something, your guests aren't either and they will eat every bit of this stuff WITH the Fritos and lick it off their fingers.  Promise.

If, and I repeat, IF there is any leftover, it is just as good cold the next day from the fridge while you are doing the dishes.  Heck, you might even think of cutting the crust off some bread and making tea sandwiches with it.  Or just a grilled cheese you can dip in tomato soup.  Or a Hot Onion Soufflé quesadilla?!  You can't go wrong.

Happy holidays!  Enjoy your time with family and friends...



Curry Favor


Recipe: Coconut Curried Squash 
Vegetable oil 
1 small onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced 

1 tbsp fresh minced ginger 
2 tsp. curry powder 
1 1/3 cup of coconut milk 
2 small delicate squash, 
1 acorn squash or other medium squash; roasted or cooked and diced into bite-sized pieces 
1 16 oz can of garbanzo beans, drained and well rinsed 
1 cup frozen peas 
Salt and pepper to taste 

In a large saucepan, heat the oil and onion and cook until it turns translucent, about five to seven minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, stirring and cooking until it is fragrant, about one minute. Add the curry powder and cook for one minute longer. Stir in the coconut milk, squash and garbanzo beans and simmer over low until the sauce is thickened. Stir in the peas and continue to cook until they are warmed. Season with salt and pepper; taste and adjust seasoning. Serve warm with rice or other accompaniments. 

Serves four as a side dish; two as a main.

Recipe: Indian BBQ Tofu
Vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
1 1/3 cup ketchup
1/3 cup distilled white vinegar
1/3 cup unsulphured molasses
Pinch of sugar
3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground coriander
2 teaspoons garam masala
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 16 oz blocks of extra firm tofu


In a large saucepan, heat three tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until translucent, 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant. Add the ketchup, vinegar, molasses, sugar, mustard, cinnamon, ground coriander and cayenne and simmer over low heat, stirring, until it's reduced and thickened; about five minutes. Stir in the garam masala and season with salt and black pepper.

Meanwhile, drain and pat dry the tofu. If you are not using an dry, extra firm variety, it may be necessary to press some of the moisture from each block. Slice each block width-wise into twelve pieces.

Place some of the sauce in a medium sized casserole. Dredge each piece of tofu in the sauce and layer into the casserole, topping each layer with a little more sauce. After all of the tofu is in the dish, add some additional sauce to the top and make sure it is all well covered. Cover and chill overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. On a jelly roll pan coated in aluminum foil, layout the tofu. Use a pastry brush or spoon to make sure the pieces have a good coating of the sauce. Bake for twenty minutes, then flip the slices, apply additional sauce and bake for an additional twenty minutes. Serve warm with rice, naan or other Indian dishes and additional sauce reheated and spread over the top. 

Makes four servings.

Difference

Sometimes, things you think are the same are actually different.  Take for instance, the breakfast taco and breakfast burrito.  Anyone who has ever eaten a breakfast taco and a breakfast burrito can probably tell you: they aren't the same thing.  It's about proportion, scale and sometimes ingredients.  But some people, even Texas Monthly prescribes the difference to regional nomenclature, suggesting a breakfast taco and burrito are identical.  But just about any child (in Texas anyways) can tell you that, besides proportion and scale, a burrito is rolled, whereas a taco is folded.

Which brings me to migas.  And chilaquiles.  ¿Cuál es la diferencia?

The Epicurious Food Dictionary definition says:

chilaquiles [chee-lah-KEE-lehs]
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn TORTILLA strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green CHILES, cheese, CHORIZO and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like LASAGNA and baked.


The dictionary doesn't define migas, but Wikipedia offers the explanation for the Tex-Mex version, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese iterations:


migas [me-gus]
In Tex-Mex cuisine, migas [me-gus] are a traditional breakfast dish consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with strips of corn tortilla; the meatless version includes diced onions, sliced chile peppers, diced fresh tomatoes, and cheese, plus various spices and condiments (e.g. salsa or pico de gallo). Migas are typically served with refried beans, and corn or flour tortillas are used to enfold all of the ingredients into tacos. The tortilla strips can also be deep-fried until crunchy

And then some places serve chilaquiles with eggs.  So what is what?  Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I tend to think definitions are important.  We have so many words in the English language, many of them borrowed from other countries and cultures, so we have the opportunity to be very specific.  Like the difference between burrito and taco!  Blurring definitions is simply lazy, which probably makes me sound old.  You're probably hearing, "why don't they teach handwriting in the public schools anymore!"

Which brings me to: addiction.  And after my confession, perhaps you can tell me what I'm making?

After moving to West Texas, I quickly became addicted to Rosa's.  Located all across West Texas, and even as far away as Dallas, Rosa's makes pretty delicious fast, Mexican food--there is no reason to go to Taco Bell.  Never.  But, what makes Rosa's special is their tortillas, which are made fresh right there in each and every store.  You can watch.  And, that is how they elevate something as simple as a bean burrito (rolled!) with cheese and delicious salsa into a revelation: bean and cheese and salsa inside a warm, soft flour tortilla probably just pulled off of the line.  Seriously, I start thinking about it and my mouth begins to water.  I pass Rosa's and I start thinking about how long I can keep myself from it.

And their chips.  And their queso!  So good.  But then you end up with a bag full of leftover chips.  Chips that were made fresh in store and don't really keep.  Chips that are pretty stale the next morning.  What to do?  Migas/chilaquiles!

So here is easy, breezy morning migas/chilaquiles when you have leftover or stale chips, some salsa, a couple of eggs...and a little cheese.

Heat some vegetable oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add enough chips to cover the bottom of the pan in one layer.  The idea is to fry the chips so they crisp up again, so stir them and turn them until they start to get a little brown.

Meanwhile, crack and beat two eggs with a little salt.  Ready your salsa (I use about 1/3 cup), some garlic and fresh pico, about 1/4 cup if you have  it (at Rosa's, they have it, so I have it.).

Once the chips are lightly brown, take the pan off the heat and add the garlic (enough) and stir until it starts to cook.  Then, dump in the salsa and pico.  It's probably going to sizzle and splatter a little.  Return to the heat and cook until the salsa is reduced a little.  Lower the temperature, add the eggs and cook until they are scrambled right into that mess.

Top with cheese and a little more salsa and voila!  Migas.  Or chilaquiles with eggs.  Or something else, I don't know.  The bottom line is that it's an easy, delicious breakfast on Sunday morning and a perfect way to use up stale chips or tortillas with your favorite salsa.  This serves two!

Fishy

Do you use fish sauce when you cook? It's an Asian condiment that brings a salty, fermented quality to a dish. You've probably had it in Pad Thai or another dish in a restaurant somewhere and you may not have even noticed it. Something salty? A little bit of pleasant funk? Fish sauce. Now, even before I stopped eating meat, I never cared for or ate fish, and there's a long story to go along with that--but I won't bore you with it at the moment. Suffice it to say, my maternal grandfather had an odd sense of humor.

Back to the sauce. After over fifteen years of cooking without meat, I've become pretty adept at adapting anything to be meatless. It isnt that hard, but there are certain condiments, like fish sauce, that remain out of reach. Occasially, if you're shopping during the right season and in a good store, you can find a bottle of vegetarian fish sauce at the Vietnamese market (labeled chay), but those are few and far between. And there ain't no Vietnamese market in Midland--that I know of anyway! Which is why I was excited to discover a recipe for a fishless fish sauce in Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, right on my bookshelf. It is simple and adds that certain j'en sais quoi to my dishes. I'm using it this week to make my Spicy Edamame...

Recipe: Fishless Fish Sauce

1 tbsp. dulse (a form of seaweed), crumbled

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablspoon Tamari or soy sauce

3 tablespoon water

4 limes

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Whisk the dulce, garlic, soy sauce and water together in a small bowl. Grate the zest of two of the limes into the bowl, then juice all four limes into the mixture. Add the brown sugar, then whisk until dissolved. Decant into a small jar and let the flavors meld. Keeps for a how long? I would say a while. And that, my friends, is vegetarian fish sauce.

 

Eggs Like a Cloud

When is the last time you learned to cook eggs in a new way?  I mean, there are basic ways to cook an egg, plus some fancier ones...but not that much in the way of innovation.  

 

Scrambled

Fried (over multiple ways)

Boiled (from soft to hard)

Coddled

Shirred

Baked

What else?

 

I remember when my mom taught me how to scramble eggs and suddenly I could feed myself.  There are still few things that taste as good to me as an egg sandwich on whole wheat bread slathered with mayonnaise.  Or as was served in our house, Miracle Whip.  But after you learned to scramble an egg, to fry an egg, to boil an egg; what next? Perhaps you can poach an egg like a pro, but have you ever done a scrambled-poached egg?!


I read about this method in Food & Wine and it is quite interesting: you whisk the eggs, then dump them into a swirling, boiling pot of water.  They cook for less then a minute, them just drain and serve.  The result is a light-as-a-cloud, omelet-ish egg that can be salted, sauced and enjoyed.  It's a simple technique and one you should try.  I served mine with a variation on the goat cheese sauce and some sautéed spinach.  Delicious!

 

 

White Lady

A couple of weeks ago, I finally had the pleasure of entertaining in the new place. It was relaxed and casual, with dinner served on the terrace on a beautiful West Texas evening. I wanted something simple, so I opted for Italian, utilizing some of my favorite recipes which are easy fare, but not your basic spaghetti with meatless balls.

To start, I served some olives, breadsticks (HEB sells the brand above from Liguria in three different flavors, but you can find them here. Addicted!) and these delicious artichokes which are similar to a stuffed version, but oh so much easier.

Next was one of my favorite salads for fall: Dama Bianca. This salad is very simple, but combines ingredients in a way that makes them special--and delicious! Fennel, celery hearts and fresh mozzarella dressed with lemon juice and olive oil combine to create the "white lady," an Italian classic.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
What makes this simple salad so delicious is the care you take in preparing the ingredients. Unless you're a master chef who can slice celery and fennel like it is butter, it's best to use a mandolin as paper thin slices of both take on a different quality than thicker slices. Likewise, tearing the cheese gives it the perfect, feathery texture to complement the crunch of the vegetables. Traditionally, this salad is made with the female fennel bulbs, which are fat and wide and considered to be sweeter than the male.

2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, but reserve a few of the fronds for garnish
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves reserved and stalks thinly sliced
1 (1/2-pound) ball buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Halve fennel lengthwise and remove the core, then thinly slice crosswise with a mandolin or shaver, then layer in a large salad bowl. Top with celery and mozzarella. Whisk together zest, juice, oil, sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and drizzle over salad. Garnish with the celery leaves and fennel fronds.

For the main course, I served a pasta dressed with a pea and walnut pesto then tossed with some white beans. This sauce is delicious anytime of year made with frozen peas, but is especially good with fresh peas in the spring. My published recipe is vegan, but I used Parmesan cheese since it was dinner for company.

Dessert was my best chocolate gelato recipe with amaretti cookies crumbled over the top. Of course I had a small bowl to nibble on the side. No one wanted coffee, so we sipped small glasses of Weller's bourbon, which has always been a favorite I could never find in Indiana.

It was a fun evening and wonderful to share food with friends.

Veggie Pimento Cheese Burger of the Gods

I have been busy updating my recipe files with the Paprika app for iPad. I have had my Precious for about a year and Paprika is one of the best apps I have bought, turning my already amazing iPad into the most impressive recipe box ever. It 'swipes' recipes from most of the major sites, including photos. Once you have the recipe in Paprika, you can edit it easily, email to a friend or add it to your shopping list--which automatically adds the ingredients to a list, which again you can modify. Amazing. I love it.

Four large binders of copies of recipes from magazines? Gone.

Stack of old magazines I hadn't had time to photocopy? Donated to the Library book sale.

Going through all of the recipes was also great because I found some things I wanted to make and ideas for other meals and dishes. Case in point: Pimento Cheese Veggie Burger. What? I mentioned this to my friend John and he said, "Yes, I put pimento cheese on everything." And well he should. I've made sandwiches out of it, filled celery with it, spread it on every manner of cracker and used it in grilled cheese. Why NOT a pimento cheese burger? So when I made some p.c. to take to a friends house on Saturday night, I held a little back for just that very experiment.

Why not a pimento cheese burger before now is really the question, because it is one of the best things I have ever eaten. It goes like this: a little bit of mayo on the bun (I'm really not a mayo on a burger type of guy, but it does go perfectly with the p.c.), some bread and butter pickle slices, a couple of pieces of veggie bacon for smoky crunch, your favorite veggie patty cooked to perfection and smothered with a big dollop of pimento cheese that melts all down the sides of the burger. It. Is. Heaven.

Whether you make the p.c. or buy it, I don't care. Just try this and thank me.

Recipe: Pimento Cheese Spread (redux)
Research and experimentation continues, but here is my latest suggestion for pimento cheese spread, perfect as an appetizer or on the pimento cheese burger, as above. (Yes, I purposely shaped the pimento cheese to look like my home state of Oklahoma. Why not?)

1/4 lb. cream cheese, softened
4 oz. jar pimentos, drained with liquid reserved
1/2 cup mayo or Miracle Whip
1 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. onion powder
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
1/8 tsp. cayenne
1 tsp. rice vinegar (or other low-acid vinegar)
1-2 tsp. reserved pimento liquid, as needed
Couple of dashes of hot sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
8 oz. sharp cheddar, grated
8 oz. Monterey Jack, grated

Combine the mayo and cream cheese in a big yellow bowl, using an electric mixer or by hand, mix until well-blended. Add the sugar through salt and pepper, combine until well-mixed. Add the cheeses and mix by hand until well combined. Serve and enjoy!

Mangez!

Our Lord Seitan

I've been trying to make a good seitan at home for years now. I've tried a variety of recipes, mixes and techniques. I wanted something that could be used in different applications, had a good flavor and, most importantly, the perfect texture. For me the target has always been the seitan White Wave used to have in the freezer section that is no longer available. I think I about have it down and several people who have tried (or heard) of my homemade seitan have asked for the recipe. So, I'm going to put it all down here--or attempt to. If you try it, please let me know how the instructions read and how the variations work for you. I'd love any feedback.

Recipe: Basic Seitan
This is a basic recipe, but there are two different textural variations and a myriad of seasoning options. Pick and choose what you would enjoy.

Basic ingredients:
1 16 oz. can chickpeas, drained and well-rinsed
2 tbsp. olive oil or vegetable oil
2 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1/2 cup vegetable broth (use chicken-flavored bouillon if you have it. or even beef-flavored is good.)
4 tbsp. soy sauce (I generally use Tamari in the kitchen, but here use a classic, basic soy sauce. You'll notice there isn't any additional salt, so all it comes from the soy and vegetable broth.)
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1-2 tsp. liquid smoke (Optional, but the liquid smoke adds a very savory component.)

Seasoning variations
You can use a few of the following. When I'm making it, I consider what the end recipe will be and include those same flavorings in the seitan. If I'm going to do something simple with it, like make fried chicken or chicken salad, I'll just use poultry seasoning or thyme. Maybe lemon zest? If I'm going to do something Asian, I'd probably use all sesame oil (instead of half olive half sesame as above), ginger and the garlic powder. It's up to you!
1 tsp. of paprika
1 tsp. onion and/or garlic powder
1 tsp. poultry seasoning
1 tsp. thyme
1 tsp. grated fresh ginger
1 tsp. lemon zest
1/2 crushed red pepper
1 tbsp. tomato paste
Freshly ground black pepper

Textural variations:
For a more tender seitan you can shred to make pulled 'pork' or Korean BBQ, use the first one. For a firmer seitan you want to dice or fry, use the second. Yes, I bread and fry this like conventional fried chicken in a giant, cast-iron skillet. And, just like its real-life counterpart, it's so good the next day, cold out of the fridge.
Tender
1/2 cup nutritional yeast
1 1/2 cup vital wheat gluten*
Firmer
1/4 cup nutritional yeast
1 3/4 cup vital wheat gluten

Putting it all together
This may seem like a lot of work, but honestly, you can have this cooking on stove in a matter of minutes once you get all of your ingredients together. The trick? Food processor. Or as they say en français, robot coupe!

1. Heat a large pot with water and fitted with a steamer on high until it's steaming, then turn down to medium. Cover.
2. Tear off four sheets of aluminum foil, about square in shape.

3. In a food processor, combine all of your ingredients from the garbanzo beans through whatever seasoning you decide to use. Pulse, then run the processor until everything is very smooth, scraping down the side of the bowl once.

4. Add the combination of nutritional yeast and vital wheat gluten that you're using, then pulse until it comes together and a dough forms.


5. Turn the dough out onto a cutting board and divide into four pieces. Knead each for two to three minutes, making sure all of the ingredients are well combined. After kneading each piece, gently pull it apart, knead it back together, and pull it apart. This helps the gluten to form and really improve the texture. I made a short video, because I'm not sure I can explain this technique very well. Tell me how you would?

6. Wrap each piece of seitan in foil tightly, folding the ends over each piece. Place in the pot, cover and steam for 40 minutes, turning once about halfway. Remove from heat and let cool.
7. You can use the seitan immediately, and if you are going to shred it with a couple of forks, it's easiest to do while it's still warm. But, the flavor and texture does improve from it cooling completely and resting in the fridge overnight.

And that my friends, is making seitan!

*I prefer Bob's Red Mill. I have tried other brands, but this is really the best.

Peanut Butter Gelato


It's summer, so time to break out the ice cream maker! Since it was a friend's birthday, I decided to inaugurate the season with a classic devil's food cake layered with peanut butter frosting and covered in a chocolate gaze. Not rich enough for you? How about a scoop of peanut butter gelato on the side? Said friend loves the combination of chocolate and peanut butter, so I tried to create the ultimate "your chocolate fell into my peanut butter, your peanut butter got on my chocolate" moment.

Recipe: Peanut Butter Gelato
2 cups of whole milk
1 cup of heavy whipping cream
1 cup peanut butter
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 tablespoons corn starch
1/2 cup sugar

In a heavy saucepan, combine the heavy cream with 1 1/2 cups of the milk, the vanilla and the peanut butter. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring with a whisk until the peanut butter melts and the mixture begins to steam. Meanwhile, in a small yellow bowl, combine the other 1/2 cup of milk with the sugar and cornstarch, stir until smooth.

Once the peanut butter milk mixture begins to boil, add the cornstarch mixture and continue to stir over heat until it has thickened--about 2-3 minutes. Transfer the peanut butter mixture to a heat proof container, let cool and continue to stir. Once it is cool enough, cover with plastic wrap (with the plastic wrap touching the top of the mixture) and place in the refrigerator to chill, preferable overnight.

You can skip this step, but if you want the smoothest gelato possible, pass the mixture through a fine, mesh sieve once it is completely chilled, but before you freeze it. Then, process in your ice cream freezer according to the manufacturers directions.

Loco por los Tacos!

I love tacos in all shapes, sizes and iterations: bean, squash, classic breakfast, mole, spicy, savory, crunch, dripping, corn, flour. I love them all. I used to make a 'beans and greens' taco that was fantastic, so I was excited when I saw a recipe recently for a spinach taco with ricotta. Amazing! Honestly, I could eat them every day for a week and then probably for a couple of more days after that.

I'm trying to stick to 'vegan at home' right now, so I made a vegan ricotta using the recipe from Isa Chandra Moskowitz in the Veganomicon. But, use regular ricotta if that suits you. The creamy, blandness of the ricotta is the perfect foil to the spicy, greens.

Recipe: Spinach Ricotta Tacos
If you are trying to sneak some tofu into your diet, here is a good place to do it. The mashed up and flavored tofu stands in well for the ricotta and is great with the spicy flavors of the filling. You can find a recipe here, just omit the basil as this recipe of course calls for cilantro instead.

For the ricotta:
1 cup of ricotta cheese (or 1 cup of the tofu ricotta with the basil omitted)
3-4 tablespoons of chopped cilantro
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped

Using a fork, mix the cilantro and garlic into the ricotta. Taste and season with salt, depending on the flavor of the cheese you may need a little or a lot. Set in the refrigerator to chill, this can be done the night before.

For the spinach filling:
olive oil
1 large yellow onion, cut into 1-2 inch slices
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
12 oz. of fresh spinach, washed and rinsed. Stemmed if you feel it's important, but not really necessary. Especially if you use baby spinach.
1 4-ounce can of chopped green chiles
1 tsp of ground cumin
corn tortillas for serving
Salsa verde for serving

Heat the oil in large skillet to medium-high. Add the onion and saute for for 5-7 minutes, until it's soft and beginning to brown. Add the garlic and continue to cook until the garlic is fragrant. Add the chiles and cumin and stir for 1-2 minutes, until the spice is nice and toasted and smells delicious. Add the spinach one handful at a time, stirring until it wilts. Continue until all of the spinach is combined and cooked through. Turn to medium-low heat and keep warm until you're ready to assemble the tacos.

Meanwhile, warm the tortillas in a pan, the oven or a microwave. Put two tortillas together, and place a about 1/4 cup of the spinach mixture in the middle. Top with the ricotta or the 'ricotta' and some of the salsa verde. Enjoy!

Brussel Sprout SANDWICH?!?

I know, I know: you don't like Brussel sprouts. No one does. Or no one thinks they do! They're not scary, mon petit chou. Just think of them as little cabbages. My favorite way to prepare them is to steam or boil them slightly; finish cooking them in a hot pan until they are nice brown; then add some toasted pecans and Parmesan cheese. Delicious--I could make an entire meal out of those.

But then I saw this amazing recipe for open faced Brussel sprout sandwiches with smokey onions, from the latest issue of Food&Wine. They did a story on influential vegetarian cookbook authors and some of their classic recipes, including this one from Deborah Madison, Grand Empress of Vegetarian Cooking and author of the classic Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.

What makes this recipe so yummy? A little bit of cheese; toasty bread; and a spice I have been using a lot lately, smoked paprika. This is perfect as a light lunch or an accompaniment to a big bowl of soup. I was also thinking about how it might taste topped with a fried egg!

Recipe by Deborah Madison as reprinted in Food&Wine is here.

Recipe: Sloppy Joes

Sometimes you just want something comforting, simple and delicious for dinner and after Ellie or Jimmy had mentioned Sloppy Joes the a couple of weeks ago, I couldn't think of anything better. I used my mom's recipe which she thinks she got from her mother. It's simple and why mess with something that tastes this good? I like to use toasted wheat buns and serve the sandwich open-faced, and I added some sliced radishes for a little spicy crunch and topped with a bit of 'cheese.' Of course, I use burger crumbles instead of ground meat, but otherwise this is just how momma used to make it. Perfection!

Recipe: Barbara's Sloppy Joes
1 medium sized onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 12-oz package burger crumbles
1 tsp salt
1/3 cup vinegar (Use white if you like a pungent vinegar flavor, but you also use an apple cider like I did tonight.)
3 tbsp. brown sugar
1 cup ketchup
1/2 cup water
2 tsp prepared mustard (I used a sweet and spicy)

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add the onion and cook until it begins to soften. Add the burger crumbles and cook for three more minutes until the crumbles begin to thaw. Meanwhile, in a two-cup measuring cup combine the rest of the ingredients and whisk to blend. Add to the onion-crumble mixture and simmer until it thickens, five to ten more minutes.

Serve on toasted buns (if you like) either sandwich style or open-faced. Add radish or cucumber for some crunch, or top with a little cheese. What goes with Sloppy Joes? BBQ beans, (sloppy) broccolini with cheese sauce or maybe even a little potato salad!

Recipe: Southwest Corn Chowder

Recipe: Southwest Corn Chowder
A perfect hearty and warming chowder for those cold days that are still ahead...

2-3 tbsp olive oil
6-8 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated
3-4 medium-sized carrots, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 tsp. chipotle chili powder (or regular, but the chipotle [or Mexican style] gives it a nice smokey flavor.)
1 tsp. oregano
2 cloves of garlic, pressed, mashed or finely chopped
2 medium sized potatoes, peeled and cut into a 1/2-inch dice
2 12-ounce packages of frozen corn
4 cups broth (I used vegetarian chicken broth. Yes, they make such a thing.)
2 cups milk (This can be easily veganized, as I did, by using an unsweetened almond milk)

In a medium to large sized pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat then add the white part of the scallion, carrots, chili powder and oregano. Stir occasionally and cook for 2-3 minutes, until the scallions begin to soften and the garlic and spices are fragrant. Add the potato, corn broth and milk. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and continue to simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through and can be easily pierced with the tip of a knife. Add the remaining green portion of the scallions and serve.

Makes 4-6 servings.

Possible additions at the table:
Pico de gallo or a chunky salsa, if you want to spice it up
Diced avocado
Strips of tortillas, fried until crispy
A squeeze of lime
Diced tomato
Toasted pumpkin seeds

And what could be better with this than a warm, crisp and melty quesadilla?

Mangez!

Recipe: Braised Greek Tofu (or Seitan)

I made my own chicken-style seitan last night, so I decided to make one of my favorite weeknight dishes, braised Greek seitan. I usually make it with tofu, which is super delicious, but the seitan made it even more scrumptious. I promised John I would post this a while back, so finally getting around to it.

Recipe: Braised Greek Something
1 tbsp olive oil
1 pound of something (tofu or chicken-style seitan), cut into bite-sized pieces (if you're using tofu, cut it crosswise into eight slabs, then press those slabs and get as much water as you can from them)
1 14 oz. can of artichoke hearts in brine or 1 bag of frozen artichoke hearts
1 cup vegetable broth
the zest and juice of one regular or two small lemons
1/4 tsp. (or more, I use about 1/2 tsp) crushed red pepper
3 tsp. oregano

Heat the oil in a large, nonstick pan over medium-high heat. In meantime, combine the broth, juice, zest, red pepper and oregano in measuring cup or small yellow bowl. Add the tofu or seitan and saute until it is a medium brown. Add the artichokes hearts and saute for two to three more minutes. Add the vegetable broth mixture and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and continue to simmer for about 10-15 minutes more, until the liquid is reduced to a pan sauce. Season with salt and pepper and enjoy with rize, orzo or shaphetti tossed with some olive oil. Garnish with a wedge of lemon!

4 serving.

Lovely Dinner

I rarely repeat table decor, but this is one of my favorite place settings:
a Metlox Shoreline dinner plate;
a blue salad plate with a white glaze underneath that shows on the rim from Target;
and a small white bowl from Crate and Barrel that I think look like Baroque pearls.


We had the opportunity to entertain friends in Terre Haute the weekend after Thanksgiving, in addition to some out-of-town guests they brought along. It was a very fun evening and I did a Spanish-inspired dinner with my favorite potato soup--it has forty cloves of garlic in the broth. Roasted, of course!

There were some restrictions though: one guest was gluten-sensitive and another was allergic to olive oil. Luckily, my menu was fairly gluten free. I just substituted a gluten-friendly flour blend in the Manchego pie (it only has a small amount as a thickener) and that was that.

But, as I'm always up for a challenge, I also made some gluten free flat breads that I served between a duo of salads. Since the garbanzo salad had mint, lemon and other strong flavors in it, I used a neutral salad oil for it. But, the green salad was just a simple Spanish salad of greens and cucumbers, so I used walnut oil in my vinaigrette which gave it a delicious, nutty taste and aroma.

The Manchego pie was served as a starter and is simple, delicious and adaptable to almost any menu you would like. A fun evening of food and friends!

Recipe: Manchego Pie
I adapted this recipe from one in Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Suppers. Her's used feta and dill, for a Greek flavor, but I substituted Manchego, the classic Spanish cheese to go along with my menu. Not quite a crust-less quiche, the ricotta is a smooth, neutral flavor that carries the bold, rich nature of the Manchego and thyme. This is great cut into thin slices and served as a first course. Likewise, you could bake it in a square pan and cut into small cubes to serve as an hors d'oeuvre. It's also perfect with a salad for a simple luncheon!

Experiment with different cheeses and herbs depending on what suits your mood. Whatever you choose, just make sure you use the best quality you can find as the cheese will be the primary flavor. Since I was creating a gluten-free dinner, I substituted a gluten-free flour mix in this recipe, which worked just fine.
Madison baked her pie in a cast-iron skillet, but you can just as easily use a pie plate or a springform pan. I used my silicone springform, which worked just perfectly.


1/2 pound Manchego cheese, coarsely shredded
1 pound low-fat ricotta cheese
4 eggs, cracked and lightly beaten
1/4 cup flour
3/4 cup milk
salt and pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Mix three-quarters of the Manchego with the ricotta in a medium bowl, without worrying about getting it perfectly smooth – you’ll want some chunks. Beat the eggs into the cheese, then add the flour and milk. Season with salt, pepper and dill.

Grease a 9 inch pie plate. Pour in the batter and crumble the remaining cheese over top. Bake until golden, 35-40 minutes. Cut in to wedges and serve.

Quick to Start

One of my favorite starters is a mushroom pâté; it's hearty, savory and delicious spread on crackers or toast points. I like to serve it with the traditional cornichon or other pickly things. It's best made the night before and chilled in the refrigerator where the flavors can mingle, but I made a batch yesterday afternoon to take to a friend's home and enjoy with an evening meal. The basic recipe is here, but I guess every time I make it there are some subtle differences. This time, I didn't have any dried mushroom, so I didn't use them. Instead, I added a little tamari (1 1/2 tablespoons) to give a depth of flavor to the mushrooms. Then, for a little brightness I included 2 tablespoons of white balsamic vinegar. For the nut, I used a mixture of pecans, walnuts and pine nuts. I toasted all of them in a dry skillet before pureeing all of it in the food processor. I thought it turned out quite good, event without the overnight rest.

So, if you're wondering what to make to begin your Thanksgiving dinner or maybe you just need a new appetizer for you holiday cocktail party, mushroom pâté is easy to prepare, can be made in advance and is delicious to eat!

Recipe: Dama Bianca

For Halloween, we had friends over for an Italian dinner. Yes, there is no connection, but it was a fun evening to entertain and we had a great time. Of course, I love deciding what china to use and put the table together. The idea was kind of fall, but not in an obvious sort of way. And the menu was also inspired by fall, with cheesy, hearty items to match the cooler weather.

To start:
Gnocchi alla Romana (Roman gnocchi is made from semolina, not potatoes, which is cooked in milk then blended with eggs, butter and cheese. After it thickens, it's cut into circles, then baked in the oven with a little more cheese and butter.)
Unstuffed artichokes
Grissini, olives and pickled okra (I have about two cases of pickled okra in the closet, so it is served regardless of the cuisine.)

First course:
Dama Bianca (This white lady is a simple salad made with thinly sliced fennel, celery, fresh mozzarella and a delicious citrus vinaigrette. Recipe below.)

Main course:
Potato gnocchi gratin
Roasted butternut squash with balsamic reduction
Tuscan beans and onions with skillet roasted cherry tomatoes and basil

Dessert:
Chocolate cake with frozen gianduia mousse
Coffee

David sent me four sets of these super cute copper-colored mushroom salt and peppers from West Elm, so I used them for the first time and placed a set between every other place setting.

Recipe: Dama Bianca
This is a great salad for fall, with crunch and a light flavor. Everyone loved it at dinner--perhaps their favorite thing that I served. It's simple and can be done ahead of time.

For the salad:
2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks discarded
6 pale inner (white) celery stalks, leaves discarded and stalks thinly sliced
8 ounces fresh mozzarella (optional), roughly torn

For the dressing:
1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest (preferably from an unwaxed organic lemon)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons good-quality fruity extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
White pepper to taste

Discard the stalks from the fennel and slice the bulb in half. To me, it important to cut the tiny triangular heart at the base of the bulb. Some people don't, but I think it's usually a little tough. and easily removed. Then, use a mandoline and slice into thin pieces. Combine with the celery and mozzarella in a large bowl or platter. You can make the salad to this point and refrigerate for several hours.

For the dressing, whisk together zest, juice, sea salt and white pepper to taste. Slowly add the olive oil and whisk until it's emulsified. Drizzle over salad, toss to combine and serve.

Mangez!