Queen of Country Pies

Mildred in her early twenties. When she first showed me this photo, I remember
her telling me that her coat and hat were red, which was always her favorite color to wear.


Today was my Mam-ma's birthday--one week and a day before mine. She has been gone for almost five years, but I still like to recognize her birthday by baking something. I often make her hummingbird cake, which I always say was her 'best cake,' but it didn't sound right for some reason. I thought about making a Jewish pound cake she loved. I remember calling her for the recipe and writing it on the inside back cover of one of my cookbooks. But, I couldn't find the book and I imagine it's still in storage in a box, so perhaps I'll make that next year. Or sooner! So, after a little more thought I finally decided: pie! While Mam-ma could make a fantastic cake, it seems her baking ran more to sweet and delicious pies. Miles and miles of pies!

I remember holidays when the console record player would be covered in pies. Or, if it were an especially large family gathering, there might even be a special table set-up in the cold garage to store the pies and other desserts. Pecan pie (dad's favorite), pumpkin pie, apple pie and more pies. I always loved the pumpkin and she always remembered to make real whipped cream for me to put on top, which I preferred to the more ubiquitous Cool Whip. I was not a picky eater, just a particular one. Ask my mother about rice, if you doubt me.

And chess pie. What the heck is chess pie? It is a simple, country creation, a custard of the most basic proportions. My father gently mocks his younger cousins who remember the wonderful, chess pie their Grandmother Stevenson would make. He says, 'it's just poor people pie.' The pie you make when there is nothing else left in the larder: no fruit, no nuts and no nothing. You may not have anything to make a real good pie, but you certainly have eggs from the chickens that you are storing in a box under your bed. And of course you traded some of those for a little sugar and flour last week when you 'went to town.' The cow will probably give up enough milk for some butter. And if you don't have a tablespoon of corn meal, I'm sure you can probably send one of the kids up the road to borrow some from the neighbor.

That is what separates a chess pie from a regular custard pie. The nubbiness that the cornmeal gives to the custard elevates the filling from merely delicious to sublimely comforting. Of course, you can adorn a chess pie with fruit or whipped cream, but it is best in its simplicity. Why is it called chess pie? No one really know, but there are a million guesses. It has nothing to do with the game, that is for sure. The cutest explanation is when asked what was for dessert, a wife responded, 'jess (just) pie.' Interesting.

While mam-ma enjoyed chess pie, I don't think she liked it anymore than she liked any other pie. Until Bill Clinton became president. What does Bill Clinton have to do with chess pie? Well to start, Lora Mildred Marie Stevenson Whisenhunt Thomas (Mildred to everyone, but Mam-ma to her grandchildren and many other people) was a devout Democrat. Now, when I saw devout Democrat I mean the story is that on her father's deathbed she promised him she would never vote for a Republican. Seriously. Because of the Depression. Likewise, she was a devout Southern Baptist who was at church for a service, program or social more times a week than anyone could ever count. Church supper? She planned it. New Sunday school class? She organized it. Visitors on Sunday? She went by to visit them on Tuesday and invite them back for next week.

But the Lord Jesus help that Southern Baptist minister who ever started talking politics in the pulpit! You can believe she would be waiting for him at the back of the church to make sure he knew where she stood on the subject of mixing politics with the Bible. I imagine that when she arrived at the Pearly Gates, if St. Peter had said, 'Sorry, you'll have to leave your Democratic Party card at the door,' she would have definitely have stopped and thought about that for a moment. Believe it.

But when William Jefferson 'Bill' Clinton became the 42nd President of the United States of America, I tell you that woman did die and go to heaven for the Inauguration Ball given by Mary Magdalene. She thought Bill Clinton was the greatest thing since canned biscuits! She and her best friend Evelyn Rutledge would talk on the phone for hours about what was happening in Washington and the White House. She loved it every moment of it.

And when she learned that Bill Clinton's favorite pie was a lemon chess pie that his mother made, you better believe that she loved him all the more. I think it gave her a sense of pride that her president was so down-to-earth and from such good country people that he even loved chess pie. And she began to make his recipe.

Now, you can Google 'Bill Clinton's lemon chess pie' and find the recipe on about 326 million sites, so I'm not going to reproduce it here. But, you should definitely make this pie. It is simple, delicious and the perfect end to just about any meal. The lemon, eggs, butter and milk undergo some sort of alchemic transformation, with the cornmeal as the catalyst. Perfection! Now my pie isn't going to win any awards at the State Fair for looks, but I promise you it will get a blue ribbon for flavor!

Enjoy!

Recipe: Braised Greek Tofu (or Seitan)

I made my own chicken-style seitan last night, so I decided to make one of my favorite weeknight dishes, braised Greek seitan. I usually make it with tofu, which is super delicious, but the seitan made it even more scrumptious. I promised John I would post this a while back, so finally getting around to it.

Recipe: Braised Greek Something
1 tbsp olive oil
1 pound of something (tofu or chicken-style seitan), cut into bite-sized pieces (if you're using tofu, cut it crosswise into eight slabs, then press those slabs and get as much water as you can from them)
1 14 oz. can of artichoke hearts in brine or 1 bag of frozen artichoke hearts
1 cup vegetable broth
the zest and juice of one regular or two small lemons
1/4 tsp. (or more, I use about 1/2 tsp) crushed red pepper
3 tsp. oregano

Heat the oil in a large, nonstick pan over medium-high heat. In meantime, combine the broth, juice, zest, red pepper and oregano in measuring cup or small yellow bowl. Add the tofu or seitan and saute until it is a medium brown. Add the artichokes hearts and saute for two to three more minutes. Add the vegetable broth mixture and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and continue to simmer for about 10-15 minutes more, until the liquid is reduced to a pan sauce. Season with salt and pepper and enjoy with rize, orzo or shaphetti tossed with some olive oil. Garnish with a wedge of lemon!

4 serving.

Blue Dahlia and Mandola's

Yesterday I met Molly for lunch at the relatively new Blue Dahlia Bistro on east 12th street. It was a lovely warm January day, so we dined al fresco on their beautiful patio. The menu is primarily sandwiches and salads, but presented in a truly elegant fashion with wonderful bread. They also serve breakfast, and I'll certainly be back to try that at some point.

I had a black bean salad which was studded with lovely pieces of avocado, mango and covered in a citrus and cumin scented dressing. Molly had a turkey sandwich topped with a chutney and presented open faced on a board. It was a delicious and relaxing lunch.

In the afternoon, I had a work appointment at Mandola's and treated myself to some of the sweets from their pastry case. They have some many to choose from, plus gelato, fresh cheeses and many other wonderful items in their grocery. I selected an agnetti cookie (which I almost always get) which are the little donut shaped ones in the middle of the case. They're covered in a lemony icing and are just the right texture: not too soft, not too hard. I also had a small sfogliatelle, which is a filled with a citrus-flavored ricotta with a shell of filo or some other think pasty. WON-derful.

Blue Dahlia Bistro
1115 E. 11th St.
Austin, TX 78702
512.542.9542


Mandola's
4700 W Guadalupe St # 12
Austin, TX 78751
512.419.9700

Friday Night Fun

Jennie and Paul came over Friday for what is my latest entertaining recipe of choice, so don't be surprised if you come over and I make it for you too: lemon gnocchi with spinach and peas from the December issue of Gourmet. It's terrific served with a big salad and chocolate cake from Central Market's bakery for dessert. Who could ask for an easier and more delicious evening with friends?

Since it's the holidays, I did decide to throw a little bit of a table together....even though we were being super casual. I got out the winter dishes (They're not Christmas or Holiday dishes, since the poinsettia is appropriate during all of the winter months. Ask Emily Post if you don't believe me.) which are from Martha Stewart's Everyday line at K-mart a couple of years back. I dressed them up with my grandmother's silver plate (which I had to polish) and used some vintage elves, with pine cone bodies, to hold the place cards. My mam-ma's kissing Santa and Mrs. Claus salt and pepper shaker were also on the table, as was her little Star of David pitcher. It's nice to remember those who aren't with us during the holiday season and I enjoyed using their things for dinner.

I even enjoy the little bit of hand washing that follows a small gathering--as opposed to the loads and loads involved for a big event. I'm not shy about putting things in the dishwasher, but there are certain items I just won't trust it with. I find the sight of the dishes inverted on the counter amusing. I'm not sure why?

It was a lovely evening with clever conversation and good wine. Have people over for dinner!

Recipe: Lemon Gnocchi with Spinach and Peas

1 cup frozen baby peas (not thawed)
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/8 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
1 garlic clove, smashed
3 cups packed baby spinach (3 ounces)
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 pound dried gnocchi
1/4 cup grated Parmesan

Simmer peas with cream, red-pepper flakes, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a 12-inch heavy skillet, covered, until tender, about 5 minutes.

Add spinach and cook over medium-low heat, uncovered, stirring, until wilted. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest and juice.

Meanwhile, cook gnocchi in a pasta pot of boiling salted water (3 tablespoons salt for 6 quarts water) until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup pasta-cooking water, then drain gnocchi.

Add gnocchi to sauce with cheese and some of reserved cooking water and stir to coat. Thin with additional cooking water if necessary.

Serves 4. More like, serves two hungry people. I doubled it for the four of us!