Difference

Sometimes, things you think are the same are actually different.  Take for instance, the breakfast taco and breakfast burrito.  Anyone who has ever eaten a breakfast taco and a breakfast burrito can probably tell you: they aren't the same thing.  It's about proportion, scale and sometimes ingredients.  But some people, even Texas Monthly prescribes the difference to regional nomenclature, suggesting a breakfast taco and burrito are identical.  But just about any child (in Texas anyways) can tell you that, besides proportion and scale, a burrito is rolled, whereas a taco is folded.

Which brings me to migas.  And chilaquiles.  ¿Cuál es la diferencia?

The Epicurious Food Dictionary definition says:

chilaquiles [chee-lah-KEE-lehs]
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn TORTILLA strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green CHILES, cheese, CHORIZO and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like LASAGNA and baked.


The dictionary doesn't define migas, but Wikipedia offers the explanation for the Tex-Mex version, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese iterations:


migas [me-gus]
In Tex-Mex cuisine, migas [me-gus] are a traditional breakfast dish consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with strips of corn tortilla; the meatless version includes diced onions, sliced chile peppers, diced fresh tomatoes, and cheese, plus various spices and condiments (e.g. salsa or pico de gallo). Migas are typically served with refried beans, and corn or flour tortillas are used to enfold all of the ingredients into tacos. The tortilla strips can also be deep-fried until crunchy

And then some places serve chilaquiles with eggs.  So what is what?  Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I tend to think definitions are important.  We have so many words in the English language, many of them borrowed from other countries and cultures, so we have the opportunity to be very specific.  Like the difference between burrito and taco!  Blurring definitions is simply lazy, which probably makes me sound old.  You're probably hearing, "why don't they teach handwriting in the public schools anymore!"

Which brings me to: addiction.  And after my confession, perhaps you can tell me what I'm making?

After moving to West Texas, I quickly became addicted to Rosa's.  Located all across West Texas, and even as far away as Dallas, Rosa's makes pretty delicious fast, Mexican food--there is no reason to go to Taco Bell.  Never.  But, what makes Rosa's special is their tortillas, which are made fresh right there in each and every store.  You can watch.  And, that is how they elevate something as simple as a bean burrito (rolled!) with cheese and delicious salsa into a revelation: bean and cheese and salsa inside a warm, soft flour tortilla probably just pulled off of the line.  Seriously, I start thinking about it and my mouth begins to water.  I pass Rosa's and I start thinking about how long I can keep myself from it.

And their chips.  And their queso!  So good.  But then you end up with a bag full of leftover chips.  Chips that were made fresh in store and don't really keep.  Chips that are pretty stale the next morning.  What to do?  Migas/chilaquiles!

So here is easy, breezy morning migas/chilaquiles when you have leftover or stale chips, some salsa, a couple of eggs...and a little cheese.

Heat some vegetable oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add enough chips to cover the bottom of the pan in one layer.  The idea is to fry the chips so they crisp up again, so stir them and turn them until they start to get a little brown.

Meanwhile, crack and beat two eggs with a little salt.  Ready your salsa (I use about 1/3 cup), some garlic and fresh pico, about 1/4 cup if you have  it (at Rosa's, they have it, so I have it.).

Once the chips are lightly brown, take the pan off the heat and add the garlic (enough) and stir until it starts to cook.  Then, dump in the salsa and pico.  It's probably going to sizzle and splatter a little.  Return to the heat and cook until the salsa is reduced a little.  Lower the temperature, add the eggs and cook until they are scrambled right into that mess.

Top with cheese and a little more salsa and voila!  Migas.  Or chilaquiles with eggs.  Or something else, I don't know.  The bottom line is that it's an easy, delicious breakfast on Sunday morning and a perfect way to use up stale chips or tortillas with your favorite salsa.  This serves two!

Boo!

Still life with check.

Boo's Crossroads Cafe is in the corner between the new place and the Swope. It's called so because the proprietress is named (or nicknamed, I assume) Boo and her establishment is located at what was once the crossroads of America: the intersection of the old interstate Highways 41 and 40, Wabash Avenue and 7th street.

Boo's serves a great breakfast and lunch, including egg sandwiches, salads and soups. She also has a case of fresh baked goods from the kitchen that rotate through the week: baked donuts sanded with sugar; cinnamon rolls with or without nuts on Friday; and cakes, cookies and pies too numerous to note. (In the evening, Boo's nephew runs a pizza joint in the same space, call La Familia de Jeshua, but that is for another post.)

Although they don't serve breakfast tacos, I still enjoy stopping at Boo's in the morning. I like to get an egg sandwich (the Yankee equivalent to breakfast tacos?) with Swiss cheese and a little mayonnaise. The coffee flows like the river Jordan, and the whole environment makes for a perfect way to start the day.

Foods I miss in Austin....

....would be far, far too long. I did a similar list when I left Wichita, but for Austin, it will have to be a top ten.

1. Breakfast tacos--yes, I am addicted and just this morning suggested to my little diner on the corner that they add them to the menu. Particularly, from Elsi's.
2. Protein 2000 from Veggie Heaven.
3. Hot dogs from Dog Almighty.
4. Central Market. Sigh. Do I need to say more?
5. Vietnamese food, particularly Sunflower by my house.
6. The pastry case at Mandola's, particulary the angenetti (cakey, lemon cookies.)
7. The Steeping Room--if you haven't been, then get yourself there.
8. Boxes of vegetables from my CSA.
9. Having friends over for dinner.
10. The giant Asian market up the street.

Mangez!

Céréales du Petit Déjeuner

Vintage Tupperware cereal container, available on Ebay. Buy it now for $4.95.

Cereal had a special place in the home I grew up in, literally. Sam, my dad, had built drawers in the cabinets for easy access and one of those drawers was loaded with Tupperware containers filled with a variety of choices. Barbara would occasionally buy a sweet cereal, like Captain Crunch with Crunch Berries, but it had to be rationed against 'plain' cereal to which we added at least the same amount of sugar that was in the Captain. Probably more. Most likely, there was some secret equation or ratio, like one box of sweet cereal to every 4.25 boxes of unsweetened cereal, but I never cracked that code.

Perplexing cereal to children? Grape nuts. It was a like a never ending bowl that just kept sucking up and absorbing the milk. It probably takes at least a half-gallon of milk to eat one bowl of Grape Nuts. Who knows. Another secret equation.
  • Cereals I would eat as a child: Cheerios, Corn Flakes, Rice Krispies.
  • Cereals I would prefer not to eat: Grape Nuts, Bran Flakes, anything with raisins.
  • Cereal involved with disgusting story I will not repeat here: Captain Crunch with Crunch Berries
Cereal was really the only breakfast food I liked as a child. I always preferred it to a hot breakfast, but would of course indulge in pancakes or French toast on Saturday morning. When we would go on vacation, breakfast had to be at a restaurant with cereal on the menu. A little like Andy Warhol and his lunch of Campbell's tomato soup, I had to have cereal for breakfast. Of course, the morning meal was not free of family politics. As the only manic morning person in our family (I guess Sam is a morning person, but not as...talkative as myself?), I was always ready to begin the day with inquisitions and conversations. Sadly, my younger brother Eric was not, and refused to eat breakfast with me because I talked too much. Moi? I'm sure you believe, as I do, that he was simply being overly sensitive.

My grandmother, Ruth, also had an array of Tupperware cereal containers. (In fact, I think Ruth invested all of her mad money in Tupperware. When she finally acquiesced to an apartment close to my parents, Barbara told me that everyone had already gone through her collection, but I could look at the remainders. Three yard-size garbage bags left! After everyone had taken what they wanted!) She didn't see these cereal containers as simply a place to store cereal, but as a starting point and outlet for creativity. In each, Ruth would create a custom blend of cereals, every changing and always intriguing. You might find Cheerios combined with Raisin Bran or Corn Flakes mixed with your Rice Chex. If you wanted cereal straight, you had to get it from a fresh box opened from the pantry. Otherwise, it was take your chances with one of grandma's cereal cocktails.

Reader, you're probably wondering where Ruth kept her custom cereal blends. In a special sliding drawer built by my dad? No, she had those of course, but Ruth kept her cereals in an appliance above her stove that was either an old microwave or extra oven. It's true. It heald at least six containers of the magical, cereal potions easily. In her defense, I should say that my grandmother rarely fed her children or grandchildren cereal for breakfast. She would make waffles in an ancient waffle iron my uncle had saved his money to order from Sear's in the 1950s, my Aunt Sally's bran muffins (That, dear reader, is another story about aging and the demise of cooking skills.), or leftover blackberry cobbler my uncle would top with heavy cream and my mother with skim milk.

What is in my new cereal container? Kashi's Heart to Heart. What's in yours?

All of this to say, cereal is probably still my breakfast of choice, with breakfast tacos as a very close second.

Disappointment

Cup a Jo

On Sunday, I've been going to the monster Whole Foods downtown to read the paper and have something eat. I enjoy it because there are a myriad of choices--almost too many. Some days I have a fruit smoothie and coffee and other days I choose a pastry form the case. Their donuts are strangely delicious: about an inch and a half thick with a texture somewhere between a cake donut and a convential glazed. Regardless, I always find something to suit my mood.

Today I decided to hit the breakfast taco stand, imagining what Whole Food, purveyor of all things fresh and amazing, might do with this wonderful and ubiquitous Austin breakfast staple. To begin, the taco maker was not exactly pleasant, but it was early on Sunday morning so who can really fault that? I ordered a potato, egg and cheese with some salsa and he quickly assembled my taco in a very determined method which involved wrapping the paper tightly around the taco and a sticker to keep it closed. I made my way to a table, opened the newspaper and unwrapped my taco.

First bite? Um, not the best tortilla in the world.

Second bite? Not even close to warm. Cold eggs and cold potatoes.

Third bite? Salty, salty potatoes that overpowered everything else.

Fourth bite? Tomato-heavy salsa without much kick or flavor. Pace would have been better.

End result: worst breakfast taco in Austin. Shame on you, Whole Foods. Shaaaame.

Mangez?

Elsi's for Breakfast

Breakfast at Elsi's

The search for wonderful breakfast tacos continues--I just can't get enough. I've sampled tacos here and there and there are a lot of good ones. But, my friend Angie turned me onto the veggie chorizo and egg breakfast tacos from the coffee shop just down the street from work. It turns out, they buy them from Elsi's, a Mexican/Salvadorian place, which is pretty close to the house.

Last month, I finally went and checked out the actual restaurant and am now completely addicted and there about every week. The veggie chorizo and egg are just spicy enough and served in a flour tortilla that is slightly crispy on the outside. In addition to the wonderful tacos, Elsi's also serves delicious pancakes that have a thin crust surrounding a light, fluffy interior. They also brew regular, cinnamon and Salvadorian coffee, which is supposed to be super strong. Best news: it's completely affordable.

6601 Burnet Road
Austin, TX 78756
512-454-0747
Mon-Sat 7AM-9PM
Sun 8AM-9PM

Veggie Chorizo and Egg Breakfast Tacos at Elsi's.

Mangez!