Fishy

Do you use fish sauce when you cook? It's an Asian condiment that brings a salty, fermented quality to a dish. You've probably had it in Pad Thai or another dish in a restaurant somewhere and you may not have even noticed it. Something salty? A little bit of pleasant funk? Fish sauce. Now, even before I stopped eating meat, I never cared for or ate fish, and there's a long story to go along with that--but I won't bore you with it at the moment. Suffice it to say, my maternal grandfather had an odd sense of humor.

Back to the sauce. After over fifteen years of cooking without meat, I've become pretty adept at adapting anything to be meatless. It isnt that hard, but there are certain condiments, like fish sauce, that remain out of reach. Occasially, if you're shopping during the right season and in a good store, you can find a bottle of vegetarian fish sauce at the Vietnamese market (labeled chay), but those are few and far between. And there ain't no Vietnamese market in Midland--that I know of anyway! Which is why I was excited to discover a recipe for a fishless fish sauce in Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, right on my bookshelf. It is simple and adds that certain j'en sais quoi to my dishes. I'm using it this week to make my Spicy Edamame...

Recipe: Fishless Fish Sauce

1 tbsp. dulse (a form of seaweed), crumbled

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablspoon Tamari or soy sauce

3 tablespoon water

4 limes

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Whisk the dulce, garlic, soy sauce and water together in a small bowl. Grate the zest of two of the limes into the bowl, then juice all four limes into the mixture. Add the brown sugar, then whisk until dissolved. Decant into a small jar and let the flavors meld. Keeps for a how long? I would say a while. And that, my friends, is vegetarian fish sauce.

 

Cold Night, Hot Soup


On a cold, snowy (Yes, snowy.  This is the fourth snow we've had in West Texas this season.) Sunday evening, what better way to stay cozy than a hot bowl of soup?  I had been wanting to try this recipe for Sumptuous Sour Soup for a while, so it seemed like the perfect reason.  I have to say from the beginning it smelled delicious simmering on the stove, with new scents added with each step.  Notice the variations and add the carrot for color (I did not.) and the red pepper for heat (I did.).  Yummy!

 

Recipe: Stir-Fried Spicy Edamame

Recipe: Stir-Fried Spicy Edamame
What is better at a sushi restaurant than a big bowl of salted edamame, steaming and warm? I love the buttery flavor of the soybean pods and the act of slowly coaxing them from the pods with your teeth. The only thing better: these spicy, stir-fried edamame. Savory and hot, it's the same as at the sushi restaurant but in the comfort of your own home--and with a kick! I like to fill snack-sized bags with them as an accompaniment to lunch. A minute or so in the microwave and they are rewarmed and ready to eat.

I based my recipe on the one that appeared in the R.S.V.P. section of Bon Appetit last year.

Ingredient:
16 ounce bag of frozen or fresh edamame in the pod
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons vegetarian fish sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2-3 teaspoons canola oil
1 teaspoon chili garlic sauce (Or more, if you want it hotter or 'Thai' hot. You know who you are.)
2 garlic cloves, mashed

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the edamame, simmering for 5 minutes or until they are tender.

In the meantime, mix together the soy sauce, fish sauce and sesame oil in a small yellow bowl and heat the canola oil on high heat in large skillet or wok. When the edamame are done, use a slotted spoon or spider to transfer them to the hot skillet. Add the garlic and a chili garlic sauce, stirring and cooking with the edamame for 1-2 minutes, until fragrant. Add the soy sauce mixture and continue to cook and stir for 2-3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl or platter with a second small bowl for the discarded pods. Enjoy warm!

Taberu to o tanoshimi kudasai! (Eat and enjoy!)

Best Phone Call and Best Friends

I just got a call from Jessie who is visiting her in-laws in Arkansas, "I sent you an email with photos of Asian soup spoons in a variety of colors. How many and what colors?"

My response?

"Um, I think I will take one basket. Yes, one basket of various colored Asian soup spoons." I mean, honestly, I want them all! Any other normal person would have said, "Well, I have a set of white porcelain ones; a set of green melamine ones; and a set of stainless steel one. I think I'm good in the Asian soup spoon department."

But, reader, you know I'm not normal! So, I said, "I'll take ten of the orange, make that a even dozen. And also a dozen of the black melamine ones. Thank you and please send an invoice!"

Heaven. What a little bright spot in a dreary, snowy day?!

Of course you want the name of the store: Culinary District in Hot Springs, AR.

Stuff and Things

I haven't posted for a while and I have quite a few 'this and that, stuff and things' sort of info to share with you that are food related in some bizarre ways, so here goes:

I was in Minnesota for a conference and had several wonderful food encounters, including this fantastic painting by Severin Roesen at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. He is one of my favorite painters and I'm not sure why. I'm not a big fan of still lifes, but there is something about the way he depicts all of the fruits and vegetation. And I love the way he hides his signature in the tendrils of grape leaves. Amazing.

They also had this fantastic coffee service on display. I desperately wanted it! I love the long spout, almost like a watering can, so you wouldn't even have to reach to refill your guests cup.

And this china from Sèvres is my new favorite. I'll take service for twelve. The original, hand-painted set had almost 400 pieces in it. And those are scattered in museums and private collection around the world. The object at the back of the arrangement is for serving ice cream and everyone knows how much I love a food-specific serving piece.

Here I am at the sculpture park by the Walker Art Center, with Spoon Bridge and Cherry by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen in the background. I love their work and while this isn't my favorite sculpture they have ever done, it's is quite brilliant and has become an icon for the city. On the other side of the park, you get a great view of downtown.

I didn't just look at food art and antique serving pieces, I also had some good things to eat in Minneapolis/St. Paul, including this green coconut curry with mock duck at a little Thai place that was just down the street from my hotel. It was just spicy enough and made me very happy! You should definitely try Ruam Mit Thai if you are in St. Paul.

I had one of the best breakfasts ever at the Downtowner Woodfire Grill which is also right by the hotel. This is a breakfast place, per se, but a very nice restaurant that also serves a very excellent breakfast. I had the veggie version of Moe's Cajun Breakfast which was sauteed onion, pepper and mushrooms topped with hash browns topped with cheese topped with an egg over easy topped with their special Hollandaise sauce. This is a HALF order. Honestly. It was so good.

Back to Terre Haute, we had a lot of fun with Shane and Melissa who were visiting from Kentucky so she could help out with a program the Swope was holding. It also happened to be Shane's birthday, so we picked up a guitar-shaped, Elvis-bedecked container of popcorn from Big Lots. It's also a coin bank once you eat all of the popcorn! No joke.

Jonah made Shane a birthday cake: carrot with cream cheese frosting. We went with a big group to Mogger's for dinner and a few drinks, which was a lot of fun.

Of course, seasonal change means it's time to change up the bar and make it ready for fall. I had the worst time trying to decide to what to use, but eventually decided on the pheasant ice bucket, the Georges Briard glasses with gold leaves, a mix of cocktail glasses and some other gold accents.

And fall also means it's time to tea, so I made the first pot on Tuesday after I caught a chill.

Last night we went to Jimmy and Ellie's for dinner and to watch Top Chef. Jimmy made two bowls of Asian deliciousness, including giant rice balls that were super yummy--and spicy!

Great, now you're all caught up.

Wichita Asian Market

I always love to stop into Thai Binh when I'm in Wichita--one of my favorite Asian markets. They've remodeled since I left the city and you never know what you are going to find! I was hoping to stock up on to-go soup containers they usually stock, which I use for ice cream when I'm taking it to a friend. Alas, there were none to be had. Oh well, we had lots of fun looking at all of the wonderful things and I did come away with a treasure.

What are these? Some sort of dock from another planet? Strange, beautiful and magnificent.

The decor items at Thai Binh are all about more, as in 'more is more, less is a bore.' It's certainly an aesthetic I appreciate.

I had been researching a substitute for fish sauce to use in Asian recipes, and several sources noted that it is possible to find a vegetarian fish sauce at some Vietnamese markets. Lo and behold, after careful look there it was on the shelf. So, now I have enough fish sauce to last me for....a decade? Who knows. It's still so high in sodium you only need a little. I haven't tried it yet, but I'll report back after I use it in a recipe.

Wichita Eats

Thai tea is better when sipped through a giant straw tucked into a
second giant straw and wearing arm warmers. She's a maniac, maniac...


While in Wichita, we got to dine at Zen Vegetarian Cuisine. Zen serves an all vegetarian menu, offering many of your favorite Asian dishes with meat analogs. I don't know if it's run by a cult or not, but the all of the employees sure seemed beatific! Perhaps it was just all of the delicious veggie food they get to eat?

We started with some dumplings which might be the best I have ever had and also ordered edamame and vegetable tempura. One dish sounded suspiciously like Protein 2000, my favorite menu item at Veggie Heaven in Austin, TX, so of course I ordered it. Not quite the same, but delicious and served with a heaping bowl of a beautiful multi-grain rice. Which is cheaper at the restaurant than white rice--I guess they are trying to promote good and healthy eating. (Cult?) I tried a bite of almost everyone's dish and were wonderful. The skipped the one Francie ordered, 'Perfection from the Ocean,' as I never cared for actual fish and wasn't interested in a substitute. Molly, the sole meat eater at the table, declared it the closest faux-meat she had ever consumed. It was a great meal and a beautiful restaurant. Wichita finally has an all-vegetarian place to dine! I'd be there at least once a week if I was still living in the ICT.


Confession: I don't really care for donuts all that much. I mean, if you stop and buy a box of donuts and drop them off, I'll probably have one. But I'll pay for it the rest of the day with heartburn. So, I'm probably never going to say, "Let's go get donuts." Just not my weakness, even without the heartburn. Now, offer me a box of chocolate cupcakes and I'll sing a different song.

But all that could change thanks to the Donut Hole in Wichita. Oh my, Molly and I went for breakfast on Saturday and my expectations and preconceptions about donuts have been changed forever. The difference? Cake. Yes, cake donuts. I'm used to being offered one or two cake donuts at donut store and I love the cinnamon ones they serve at Boo's Cafe, but I have never been to a donut shop that served only cake donuts. I should say only cake donuts, I should say: a mindblowing array of spectacular cake donuts. In every flavor you can imagine and some you would never think of: cocao krispies, bacon, buttermilk, peanut butter and more. All transformed into a delicious breakfast treat. And served with great coffee with Cafe du Monde as one of the choices. Coffee with chicory! It was heaven. It was so good, we stopped by on the way out of town that Sunday.

On top of the delicious donuts, the decor is fab and fun and funky. There is a giant cock on the roof and lots of crazy things spread around the interior. If I lived in Wichita, it would be donuts from the Donut Hole for breakfast five days a week and I would be as big as a house. Driving through? They have a drive through open 24-hours a day. Honestly, if you're close, it's worth the stop for delicious donuts and a peek at Wichita, which is a little cooler and a little funkier these days. As always, on the verge. And, you can buy their VERY cool t-shirts and other merch with the awesome logo designed by our friend Chris without ever setting foot in Kansas.

While there, I sampled the original buttermilk, maple and a bite of Molly's chocolate peanut butter.


Pantry Raid

Last week when Katie was over, I opened the pantry to offer her some tea and found a giant sausage sitting on the bottom shelf. Now, considering I haven't eaten meat in about twelve years or so, I don't think I placed the sausage there. Perhaps one of my cheeky friends? I'm sure no one is going to own up to this little prank, but if you would like to anonymously comment to this post and let me know how long the sausage has been there, I'd be very happy. That was the test right? How long will it take for Brian to notice the giant sausage in the pantry? I just want to know how I did...

So, after the shaman left from the cleansing ritual I had to enact because of the presence of meat in my pantry (The shamanic cleansing cost $500, so if you ever own up to the sausage, expect an invoice.), and after I had done a personal smudging of the space, and after I had cleaned it from top to bottom with a mixture of Kaballah water and sea salt....I decided it was time for a reorganization! I mean, if someone can sneak a giant sausage through my front door and into my pantry right under my nose, I'm clearly not as organized as I should be.

This reorganization resulted in a complete paradigm shift. In the past, I had grouped together like foods by storage method and usage. In the spare spaces, I had stashed overflow utensils and other kitchen instruments. On top of these, odds and ends were crammed into nooks and crannies. While this was useful and worked for the most part, I thought a higher level of organization was possible. I decided to try and include aesthetic choices as part of the overall construction of the space. Pleased with the results, I thought some of the ideas might be useful to you, dear reader.

The first thing I did was group all of my wonderful pickled vegetables together on a single shelf for some strong visual impact. These are all tomatoes and okra that my dad put up from things grown in his garden. I actually didn't realize I had so much okra, so I am officially not rationing it any longer. On the shelf above, I arranged an array of colorful mugs more intentionally. I even weeded out three mugs that I have been moving around for about twenty years. Advice: do not becoming emotionally involved with coffee mugs. I also placed the coffee making tools very close and balanced three lovely, orange egg cups on the edge to add depth of field. The colors are bright, cheerful and the entire arrangement says 'I'm ready for breakfast at any time.' In front of the pickly things, I placed a plastic Kachina and an engraved Hindu goddess who had both been living in the pantry. Now that they are front and center, I officially charged them with oversight of the space in the future.

As I mention, some kitchen odds and ends are also grouped in the space. This vintage ice crusher had been crammed into the corner, but I placed it between the canned goods and the array of jams and jellies. (I have strawberry now, for those of you who have been following the jelly saga.) It's a fun object I don't use often, but do enjoy seeing.

Honestly, I was trying to weed out a little as I went through everything and came across two small platters I hadn't used in a coon's age. I was going to put them in the Goodwill pile, but then realized they would be perfect for storing vinegars, oils, honey, molasses and other items which have a tendency to drip onto the shelves. They not only add color, but make clean up simple.

I had my sugar and baking supplies in bags piled on the shelves to the side, while these three canisters my mother received as wedding gifts languished in the bottom of a cabinet. They're in use again and bring a strong metallic element to the palette of the pantry. Notice reader, I said palette. Think about color and texture as you decide what goes into your space.

Boxes and canisters of tea seem to multiply in the pantry. Where did all it come from? Likewise, packages of napkins from parties past and future grow and spill off the shelf. The solution? Container Store. They always have your back. I bought two baskets made from thinly rolled Asian newspaper that are chic and keep tea and napkins neatly contained. That way, next time someone wants tea (which was started this whole story in the first place), I can just grab the box and let them choose away. Simple.

Remember:
1. Organize not just for ease of use, but also for looks. You have to open the pantry a couple of times everyday, it might as well seem exciting.
2. Think color and texture. Eventually, I would like to paint the walls of the pantry a nice, soft orange and leave the shelves a clean, bright white. What is going on your shelves? What do your containers look like? Would some dark baskets spruce things up? What about some colorful pots that are in a closet? Could you put some rarely used utensils in them?
3. Decorate everything. Some vintage cookbooks, a small statue or a favorite item could easily add a little bit of life to your shelves. Magazines are always reminding you that bookshelves aren't just for books and I am saying that pantry shelves are not just for cans of beans.
4. Use trays to organize items and keep the place clean. If it goes on something, it's much less likely to wander.
5. Watch out for sausage!

Domo arigato, Mr. Morimoto

I've received several new cookbooks to review, the most beautiful of which is The New Art of Japanese Cooking by Masaharu Morimoto. You may know this famous chef from Iron Chef America on the Food Network, one of his eponymous restaurants, or his recent appearance on The Martha Stewart Show where he made daikon fettucine. This new publication illustrates how Chef Morimoto stretches the traditional vocabulary of Japanese cuisine to include both Western forms and ingredients. Each recipe, meticulously photographed and detailed, provides introduction to his famous kitchen and innovative palate. Chef Morimoto intersperses recipes with welcome information on the many exotic ingredients and techniques he employs and encourages his reader to try. While many of his ideas are tempting and unusual (like the sushi omelet, frozen lettuce and curried mushroom salad), the one I'm most likely to utilize (or at least borrow from) is the mashed potato soup.

Recipe to try: Mashed Potato Soup with wasabi and chives
1 large baking potato, such as Idaho or russet
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
3/4 cup half-and-half
4 cups Dashi
2 tablespoons saki
3 tablespoons soy sauce
salt
1-ounce caviar, optional
freshly grated wasabi, and finely sliced chives for garnish

Prick the potato in a couple of places and steam over boiling water until the potato is tender when pierced with a knife, 30-35 minutes. Allow to cool, then peel potato and rice the potato or force through a fine sieve into a saucepan.

In a small saucepan, combine the butter and half-and-half. Warm over medium heat until the butter melts and the liquid is steaming.

Place the saucepan of mashed potatoes over low heat, then slowly whisk in the hot butter mixture until potatoes are thick and smooth. Cover to keep warm. Bring the Dashi, sake and soy sauce to a boil over high heat. Spoon equal amounts of the mashed potato into four soup bowls. Gently ladle the hot Dashi over and around the potatoes. Top with a spoonful of caviar and garnish with wasabi and chives.

Mangez?

Protein 2000

When Molly was visiting, we took her to eat at Veggie Heaven, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant on the Guadalupe strip. Is hole-in-the-wall right? At VH, it's definitely not about the decor, which is a strange mishmash of posters, wall art and calendars. It's about yummy Asian food that is completely veggie friendly.

As we perused the menu, which is replete with photographs of every entree, food for the table next to ours was delivered. They had two orders of a half broccoli and half something that looked like breaded meat in some sort of sauce. It looked good. It smelled yummy. A quick perusal of the photo-friendly menu revealed they were eating Protein 2000. I ordered it. It was good. It was very good. And I noticed everyone around me was eating it. It seemed the whole restaurant had ordered Protein 2000.

What is Protein 2000, you ask? The VH menu describes the dish as, "vegetable proteins made of soybeans in a slightly sweet brown sauce with broccoli, garlic, and onions." But what's with the silly name? No idea. Of course, thoughts do turn to Soylent Green, the Charlton Heston 'classic' where the food source turns out to be people. (It's people! Soylent green is people!) But since VH is run by a 'cult' of vegetarian practitioners, we can assume that Protein 2000 is not people.

That's right, VH is run by Falun Gong practitioners, which you probably know because of their persecution by the Chinese government. They are seen by many, including experts in the West, as a cult with questionable practices for followers. But, they run a great restaurant! And you know how I love a cult-run restaurant.

I think they are putting something in that Protein 2000 though. If not, why the strange, futuristic name? And why is everyone ordering it? And why do I think about it all the time and wonder when I am going to get some more Protein 2000? Why have Thursdays become Protein 2000 day?

Today, Katie and I met for lunch at Veggie Heaven and I ordered the Protein 2000 without even looking at the menu. I don't have answers to any of the questions lingering over my plate, but I am going to stop asking them, set back and enjoy my meal. That is what the Protein 2000 is telling me to do.

Mangez!

Eating and Shopping in OKC

Last weekend I made a quick trip to Norman, OK to visit my friend Stephanie and see some other pals. We set off a thrifting adventure, then stopped into Super Cao Nguyen Market for something to eat and got sucked in the most wondrous, amazing Asian market I have ever seen. And I have been in many, MANY Asian markets.

At the front of the store they had an enormous section filled with Buddhas, Virgins, Jesi (the plural of Jesus is Jesi, right? I mean, would you say Jesuses? I wouldn't.) and more Quan Yins than you could count. While this amazing display might look like the altar of the store, it's actually just a display. The more modest resident altar is discreetly tucked away by the entrance. Blink and you'll miss it.

This lovely, lovely Quan Yin (available in various sizes and even in solid pink) has a bisque finish and stands upon a pink lotus flower. The store was packed with them and I wanted to load up the whole basket with every last one.

The beauty of the Asian market isn't found simply in statues and art objects, but in every little packaging detail you encounter. For your consideration: parrot soap, pigeon mushrooms and baby corn.

And stainless steel Chinese soup spoons! These are really one of my most favorite things. They look great on the table and can be used as a conventional utensil or piled high with some savory treat, hors d'oeuvres, or an amuse bouche. If you find these, buy several sets because they are inexpensive and you will grow to love them.

We also encountered lots of French and German items, such as these candy sprinkles in a repetitively dramatic display. Stephanie said her mom had been searching for these and now she knows where to find them.

And let us not forget grooming! The nose tweezers look dangerous, but we were fascinated by the packaging.

Then we did some actual eating. Stephanie had some shrimp spring rolls and I opted for a vegetarian bahn mi which was delicious. Perrier? Well, Vietnam was a French Colony. So bring on the sparkling water, spring rolls and delicious sandwiches on crusty French bread!

Saturday night, Stephanie and I threw together a little meal for some friends. We made my easy, breezy peanut noodles with all sorts of different add-ins, some sauteed baby bok choy, egg rolls from Costco and some dumplings.

For dessert? Delicious, creamy, wonderful cupcakes from Central Market.

Here's the recipe for my peanut noodles, reprinted from a couple of years ago.

Recipe: Spicy Peanut Noodles
1/2 cup peanut butter (I use Peter Pan Plus 8)
2/3 cup tamari soy sauce
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup Oriental sesame oil
4 heaping spoonfuls of minced garlic
2 tsp. minced fresh ginger (lazy me uses the bottled stuff)
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

24 oz. udon noodles (or plain spaghetti works just fine)

Cook the noodles per directions, but you want it a little chewy--not too done. Drain and cool. Meanwhile, combine all the other ingredients in a large bowl (I use an 8-cup measuring cup.) with a whisk until smooth. Place cooled noodles in a large serving bowl, pour sauce over and toss to coat. You want to prepare this a couple of hours ahead and then allow to chill in the fridge-that way the noodles soak up all the peanutty goodness. Bring to room temperature and you may need to add a little warm water to the noodles as you toss to loosen. Garnish as desired. Doubles easily.

Asian Slaw

For lunch today, I adapted an Asian slaw recipe and topped it with delicious vegetarian dumplings from Whole Foods. On the side, tomatoes from the Farm and cucumbers from Jen's amazing cucumber plant. (Already consumed and therefore not pictured!)

Recipe: Dumplings with Asian Slaw
Fresh or frozen dumplings, prepared according to package directions. (The Whole Foods ones are fully cooked and ready to go from the case. I actually enjoy them chilled from the fridge.)
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar (seasoned or not, your choice)
3 tsp. brown sugar
2 tsp. soy sauce
2 tbsp. sweet garlic chili sauce
2 tsp. Sriracha sauce (or more, if you like the heat)
2 tbsp. smooth or crunchy peanut butter
1 12-oz bag broccoli slaw
1/4 cup dry roasted peanuts

In a small yellow bowl, combine the ingredients from rice wine vinegar to peanut butter. Whisk to combine. In a big yellow bowl, toss the broccoli slaw with the dressing then divide between four plate. Top with peanuts and prepared dumplings.

Serves 4.