Beans Glorious Beans!

I have to tell you that my mother knows how to stretch a dollar and feed a crowd.  She could do a million and one things with ground beef; enough to make your head spin with innumerable delicious variations.  And beans?  We had many meals that revolved around a big pot of beans that could be navy beans with ham or just pinto beans cooked to perfection.  Of course, there was usually cornbread to go along with it which we happily slathered in butter mixed up with molasses in true country fashion.  During the winter, beans fill the belly and warm the soul and a pot cooked beans on your stove is so much better that opening a can.  Not to mention more economical!

Steps for Great Pot of Beans

1. Sort and rinse your beans.  In a world of perfectly processed foods, we're used to every little detail being taken care of, but with dried beans, you might find a tiny pebble or some dirt.  You want to go over them carefully and make sure they're all good.  After, rinse your beans in a large colander and get them all ready to go into the pot.
2. I prefer the quick soak method, so now put your beans in a pot and cover them with about one inch of fresh, cold water.  Turn the heat up to medium and bring the pot to a boil.  Once it comes up to a boil, turn off the heat, cover the pot and let it set for two hours.
3. Now, some people will cook their beans in this water, but I say no to that.  You want to rinse the beans, rinse the pot and then return them to the pot again covered with about one inch of fresh, cold water.
4. Now, add some flavor.  Most cooks believe that salting the water while the beans cook can make them tough or take longer to cook, so I don't add salt until after the beans are done.  However, I do add some other flavorings.  Use whatever you like, but I usually throw in a couple of bay leaves, several cloves of garlic and then I'll put some black peppercorns and crushed red pepper in a tea ball and toss that in as well.  Your kitchen will smell so good and the beans will be infused with all of the flavor.
5. Cook those beans!  Bring the heat back up to medium and your beans up to a simmer; now cook them for about two hours or until they are done.  Depending on how old the beans are, it can take a shorter or longer amount of time for them to get tender.

How to make them delicious?
In a skillet, cook one onion that is very finely diced in oil until it is soft and translucent.  Add a couple of cloves of garlic that have been minced and two jalapeno peppers that have the seeds and ribs removed and are finely diced.  Cook all of this until the peppers are soft, then add to the beans with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Depending on how much water your beans absorbed and how much pot liquor you want to include, you may want to drain off some of he liquid.  Taste and adjust the seasoning.  Serve the beans with cornbread!  Or try strips of freshly fried tortilla, fresh tomato and diced avocado.  A squeeze of lime adds a bright counterpoint to the earthiness of the beans.  Rich and delicous, this bowl of beans is a satisfying meal for a cold January day.  Peasant food at its simplest and best.

And after?  Always make more beans than you think you will eat because you can use them after in burritos or mash them up and serve them with rice.  Once you have the beans cooked, the things you can cook with them are limitless.

Greens

For New Years, my grandparents usually cooked up black eyed peas, some winter greens and a little fat back.  I won't go into the details of fat back, but suffice it to say it smelled to high heaven and isn't eaten at herr haus.  Greens, however, that is another story.  And what goes great with greens? Andouille sausage.  

And guess what? Tofurky has come out with a vegan andouille as part of their new artisan line!  And I have to say, it's a little spicy and pretty delicious with a mess of Swiss chard and some brown rice to soak up all of the pot liquor.

Recipe: Garlicky Swiss Chard

• Olive oil
• 1 onion, in a very small dice
• 2 bunches of rainbow Swiss chard, butchered according to the directions below
• 4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp. crushed red pepper
• 3 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
• Liquid smoke
• Salt and pepper to taste

To prepare the chard, cut the leafy part of the greens away from the thick stem.  Also, cut out any of the thick veins that may be at the lower end of the leaves if they are the really large ones.  Now, I usually take the stems and make sure all of the greens are trimmed off, then I trim the top and the bottom and make long slices (two or three, depending on the size of the stems) in the thicker part of the stem.  Now, I gather them all up and slice them as fine as I possibly can.  The stems take longer to cook than the greens, but it doesn't mean they aren't edible and delicious...

You can do all of this while the onion is cooking (about 10 minutes) on medium heat in the olive oil in a nice, large lidded pot.  Now add the Swiss chard stems and continue to cook for about five more minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for another two minutes.  Your kitchen should be smelling fantastic right about now.

At this point, add the crushed red pepper, rice wine vinegar, a dash of liquid smoke then salt and pepper to taste, stirring and cooking everything for another two to three minutes.  Add the greens and stir to combine everything, then cover the pot and let them cook for three to five minutes.  The greens should be good and wilted, so just taste and adjust the seasoning, then your ready to eat.

Stir in some delicious sausages you cooked in another skillet and serve with a little bit of rice.  It's all so nice!

Winter Salads

During the winter, we all tend to eat slightly richer dishes: pastas, casseroles and other baked things. Especially during the holidays! These are comforting dishes that help us make it through the dark days, but they also need something light and refreshing to accompany them during a time when fresh produce can be expensive or unappealing.  A crisp winter salad is just the thing to perk up those tired taste buds and provide a vibrant counterpoint to all of that yummy winter fare.  Creating a satisfying winter salad is easy, think: crunchy, cruciferous vegetables; rich, earthy nuts; and the bright notes of all the winter citrus.  Keep it simple, choosing the best from each category that you can find and perhaps even cooking or roasting some of your ingredients for a little variety.  A salad doesn't have to be just lettuce and some soupy dressing, it can be any combination of things that are fresh, delicious and inspiring. 

Here are three of my favorites: 

Salad Greens with Citrus Vinaigrette
A citrus vinaigrette like this can be used in a variety of ways besides just salad greens: try sliced Persian cucumbers, steamed cauliflower and slivers of olives with almonds, or little pastas, cherry tomatoes and little broccoli florets.  Kale!

 Dama Bianca (The White Lady)
This classic Italian salad combines three ingredients whose sum is greater than their parts: fennel, sliced very thin; celery hearts and leaves; and the freshest mozzarella you can buy.  Instead of slicing the cheese, just shred it with your hands to add a rustic touch and great textural variation. 

Green Apple and Celery Salad with Walnuts (or Pecans!) and Mustard Vinaigrette
Celery...again?  Yes, but this time combined with crunch, sweet Granny Smith apples and nuts.  The recipe calls for walnuts, but I have delicious pecans in the freezer and used those instead.  To perfection!

Don't let your salad bowl go empty just because it's winter!

Time for Tea Sandwiches

 I work at a place that serves a Christmas tea during the holidays and they are extremely popular, with about 100 people showing up to enjoy tea with slices of lemon and sugarcubes; sweet treats like iced sugar cookies, cake balls, brownie bites and cream puffs; and of course the star of show, tea sandwiches.  We usually serve three different varieties, each in a different shape to define its flavor: chicken salad sandwiches are trianglular, cucumber sandwiches are square and pimento cheese sandwiches (it is the South!) are finger shaped.

Unless you're British, tea can seem a bit old fashioned and a little old lady.  But, it can be a fun way to entertain a few friends.  There isn't a lot of food involved, some of it can be bought and you aren't serving alcohol so no one will drink too much and overstay their welcome.  Yes, you could meet for margaritas or for coffee at the corner, but you could also get out your Granny's china you never use, polish up your Mimi's silver and take an hour or so to catch up with friends over some lovely little things to eat.

A couple of things to consider:

A tiered serving piece isn't necessary, but it fun.  Remember to put the savory items on the bottom and work your way up to sweets. Items to include: 

• Small scones
• Butter cookies
• Cake balls
• Brownie bites
• Caramels
• Mints

I suggest you make the sandwiches, using good bread and cut off those crusts!  There is something magical about the crust that keeps bread from drying out, so after you assemble the sandwiches, make sure you cover them with a damp paper towel and wrap them tightly.

Recipe: Pimento Cheese Spread

My recipe is simple and versatile, perfect for entertaining.  The smoked paprika bumps up the flavor as do the onion and garlic powders.  Some people eschew onion powder and garlic powders, but they have their place and add flavor without distorting texture.  I also utilize a little bit of the liquid from the pimentos, but other people use...pickle juice!

Ingredients

4 oz. jar pimentos, drained with liquid reserved

1/2 cup mayo or Miracle Whip

• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1/2 tsp. onion powder
• 1/2 tsp. garlic powder
• 1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
• 1/8 tsp. cayenne
• 1 tsp. rice vinegar (or other low-acid vinegar)
• 1-2 tsp. reserved pimento liquid, as needed
• Couple of dashes of hot sauce
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 8 oz. sharp cheddar, grated
• 8 oz. Monterey Jack, grated

Combine the mayo and cream cheese in a big yellow bowl, using an electric mixer or by hand, mix until well-blended. Add the sugar through salt and pepper, combine until well-mixed. Add the cheeses and mix by hand until well combined. Serve and enjoy!

Receip: Chickepea Salad Sandwich Spread

A classic vegetarian version of a perennial favorite. 

Per 16-ounce can of chickpeas, drained and well rinsed
1 tbsp unseasoned rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp Tamari or soy sauce
2 tbsp Vegenaise
2 tbsp sweet pickle relish
1 1/2 tsp dulse flakes*
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp garlic powder
2 green onions, finely chopped
1/2 tsp spicy or Dijon mustard (optional)
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced (omit, if you intend to serve the salad with celery sticks)

The most important thing here is texture, so it may take you a batch or two to get it to where you like it. The trick is to use a potato masher, which splits the chickpeas into small flakes. You might be tempted to break out the food processor, but I've tried that technique to try and speed up the process and you only end up with pulverized chickpeas.

Place the chickpeas in a big yellow bowl, add the vinegar and Tamari--the liquid helps the mashing process and fully incorporates it with the beans. Mash with the potato masher until there are very few whole beans--although a couple certainly don't hurt. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir until combined. It's delicious right away, but even better after sitting in the fridge overnight, all of the flavored melding together.

*What the heck is dulse? It's a form of seaweed that has been dried and coarsely crumbled into flakes. It has vitamins and minerals in it, plus adds a salty or briny flavor to the salad. You don't have to use it, but it does add flavor and nutrients to the dish.

Other ideas:  

• Artichoke Tea Sandwiches and Benedictine Sandwich Spread from Saveur.
• Cucumber and Rye Tea Sandwiches and Curried Egg Tea Sandwiches from Food and Wine.
• Radish-chive Tea Sandwich and  Cucumber-Radish-Goat Cheese Sandwich from Bon Appetit.

Traditiooonnnn!

Everyone has their special holiday traditions and many of those revolve around food--and some traditions are even about...going against food traditions!  When I was getting a haircut the other day, people were talking about gravy and how smooth it needed to be (in our household, lumps let you know it was homemade) and other people were talking about adding an egg to theirs--as if gravy isn't rich enough!  Someone else was discussing how they were looking for a cook who made really good tamales they could buy (a very Texas Christmas) while another lady was looking forward to the barbeque she was going to order.  What will you have? Ham or turkey?  Or maybe a roast?

For our family, Christmas Eve isn't Christmas Eve without spaghetti--but not just any spaghetti, my Great-Aunt Viola's recipe that we all make--with garlic bread and salad.  And Christmas dinner isn't right unless it is fried chicken.  Fried chicken?  Yes, I think it was about twenty years ago when we decided enough with the turkey and/or ham and all of that--we were going to have plenty of it at our grandmothers' dinners--let's have fried chicken.  My parents were just emerging from what I call their "orange roughy period" as it seemed like we were eating orange roughy every other night in the name of a new, healthy way of cooking they had adopted over their country roots of frying everything.  But we missed frying everything!  So, for Christmas that year we had a big delicious country meal of fried chicken (what is more celebratory that frying?), mashed potatoes, homemade biscuits, vegetables and all of those wonderful sides.  An amazing feast.

But what is a non-meat eater to do?  Some years I have fried seitan alongside the chicken and other years it has been some sad, chicken-less nuggets.  I think this year, I'll probably make Gardein chicken strips, plus I have a recipe for "pickle sauce" I have been wanting to try.  Or maybe just my favorite BBQ sauce from Garland Jack's?  There is a bottle packed because they might not sell that at home.  And for gravy?  I'll definitely be making Isa Chandra Moskowitz's lenftil-miso gravy from her new cookbook.  It is going to be wonderful with those biscuits and on mom's mashed potatoes.  I can't wait...

Happy holiday!  Enjoy what you eat and who you eat it with! 

With Relish

Now that charcuterie, cupcakes and punch have been sufficiently revived, let us set our sites on...the relish tray!  A recent estate sale visit reminded me of how ubiquitous the relish tray once was in American culture.  While you might think that crudités is the same thing as a relish tray, these cousins are not exactly interchangeable--in my mind anyway.

Crudites are raw or par-cooked vegetables I usually serve with a sauce for dipping.  They are what is best and most fresh from the market or grocer.  A relish tray, is similar in that it may contain some raw or fresh vegetables, but it will also probably have some stuffed olives, home pickled vegetable and several other things from a jar.  You might have some celery that has been stuffed with pimento cheese or some other kind of spread.  Perhaps some cucumbers and vinegar?

I think we just about always had a relish tray when Mildred was serving dinner.  It was never anything fancy, but I know she always had a small bowl of the cucumbers with onion, some raw spring onions I only remember her eating and...I can't remember quite what else.  My dad usually puts together a relish platter when we're dining there and my brother mocks my sister-in-law, saying her families' relish tray is just black olives.  My new relish dishes inspired me to put together two relish trays, perfect for cocktails or a glass of wine, but created for a make-your-own-sandwich buffet we had at work.

When assembling, I think the main purpose of the relish tray should be something refreshing--bright, astringent flavors that wake up the taste buds before dinner.  Variety.  If you need inspiration, pick up any 1950s cookbook and just flip through the photos in the appetizers section.  For mine, I used:

• Sun-dried tomato stuffed olives
• Carrot sticks (not baby-cut carrots!)
• Pickled asparagus
• Garlic gherkins
• Celery sticks stuffed with horseradish cream cheese
• Dill pickle spears
• Pickled okra
• Black olives

Friendly Little Dinner

Entertaining isn't something we do as frequently as we used to, probably because we are still making friends here and also because work and life in general is very busy. I remember a time when we had friends over for dinner at least once a week, sometimes for last-minute dinner parties but other times for overly-detailed celebrations. Now, we probably only host two or three times a year, so when we do, you know I pull out every stop; consider the use of every dish, plate, sherbet or goblet; and pour over every recipe that has been waiting in the wings.

When our friends Gab and Kristina came in from Boston, MA and Dallas, TX for a quick trip to Marfa and Fort Davis, I put a lot of thought into each of the six courses (yes, six), not just what I would serve, but also in what I would serve each culinary creation...food photos courtesy of Gab, one of our guests!

To start:
Mustard-marscarpone spread with toasts, sesame sticks, bread sticks, assorted olives and almonds served in the little black lotus bowls with the black tidbit plates.

First course:
Double-baked three-cheese soufflé served in individual cast iron skillets with a white, Rosenthal under plate.

Salad course:
Butter lettuce with a lemon-oregano vinaigrette on white, Rosenthal salad plates.

Main course:
Homemade bucatini with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese in the oddly shaped pasta bowls.

Intermezzo:
Basil gelato in the chartreuse Russel Wright sherbets.

Dessert:
Easy candy bar tart on the patterned, Rosenthal dessert plates.

If I say so myself, everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time talking and catching up over the course of the meal. The only thing I felt like need some tweaking was the salad dressing, which was a little on the sour side--but the citrus, red pepper and oregano were a great flavor combination and will probably become something else in the kitchen.  The gelato and pomodoro were of my own devising, so there are a couple of recipes for you to try.

Recipe: Basil Gelato

I use corn starch to thicken my gelato, although many recipes use eggs instead. This recipe is the perfect thing to bridge an Italian main course and dessert; its first taste is sweet, which is replaced with a strong herbaceous flavor and ends with the spicy note of basil. Affected? Yes, but effective.

2 cups basil leaves
3 cups milk
3 tbsp corn starch
¾ cup sugar
1 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. salt

Combine basil, 2 1/2 cups milk, sugar, zest and salt in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a two quart saucepan and heat gently until sugar dissolves.  In the meantime, combine the remaining milk with the cornstarch and whisk to form a slurry.  Continuing heating the basil-milk mixture until it begins to steam; stir in the slurry and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened.  Remove from heat and pour through a fine strainer; chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or for best performance with your ice cream maker, overnight.  Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves.

Makes about one quart of gelato.

Recipe: Pasta al Pomodoro

Everyone has a favorite red sauce and it may come from a jar--there are so many good-quality brands out there it is easy to find several you like. Lately, I've been trying to find my own perfect recipe and have tried every trick, idea or suggestion. My version combines slowly cooked onion, garlic, tomato sauce and great canned tomatoes to make a delicious sauce. My secret ingredient? Fennel pollen. My secret tool? Using the immersion blender for a smooth, delicious sauce.

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely minced
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes or whole tomatoes, use a very good brand
1 8-ounce can of tomato sauce
Pinch of fennel pollen
Kosher salt
3 large fresh basil sprigs

To assemble:
12 ounces bucatini or spaghetti
2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving.  You'll want more!

Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add minced onion and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for another 2-4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes; cook for 1 minute more. Increase heat to medium, add tomatoes, sauce and season lightly with kosher salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens a little, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil sprigs, cover and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour.  Remove basil, purée with an immersion blender, or in batches in a blender, until very smooth.

When you're ready to serve, bring water to a boil in a large. Season with salt; add spaghetti or bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally, until not quite tender. Reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water, then drain pasta.

Bring pasta back to a simmer, add pasta and some of the pasta water; cook, stirring, until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove pan from heat; add butter and cheese; toss until cheese melts. Serve with more cheese, if desired.  It will be desired!

Serves fours.  The sauce can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd or to have some to save for later.  I added chopped green and kalamata olives, four extra cloves of minced garlic and 1 tsp. of red pepper flakes to my leftovers for a spicy, easy 'puttanesca.' 

Scurry

In West Texas, spring has sprung: the weather is doing that back and forth thing, but most days are lovely; the trees and bushes, including the red buds, are starting to peek out; and my stomach is yearning for something besides winter foods. But, there is still a chill in the air in the evenings, so I also want something warming. What to do?

Vegetable curry! There are a million curries in the naked city, but this one is simple, delicious and straddles the seasons well by combining root vegetables with those skinny little green beans that are so very yummy. And the gravy? It's tomato-based, simmered with ginger, garlic, pepper and spices and married to a healthy dose of (light) coconut milk for a creamy finish perfect with rice or sopped up with some naan. Leftovers? You'll have a few to see you through a couple of lunches for the week. Plus, this recipe is easily adapted to whatever veggies you like or have on hand. Enjoy.

Recipe: Delicious Vegetable Currrrrry

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 jalapeno, seeded and cut into thin strips
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 1/2 tsp cumin
1 1/2 tsp coriander
1/2 tsp chili powder
1, 16 oz can petite diced tomatoes with juice
1, 16 oz can tomato purée
1, 16 oz can garbanzo bean, drained and well rinsed
One 14-ounce can light coconut milk
3 carrots, peeled, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound small green beans, cut into thirds
Salt and pepper to taste
Cilantro for garnish
Brown rice for serving


In a large, dutch oven, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook for five minutes, until it begins to soften. Add the ginger, jalapeno and garlic and cook over moderate heat until softened, about another five minutes. Add the spices cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant; about two minutes

Add the tomatoes and tomato puree and cook for five minutes, until the tomatoes begin to soften. Add the coconut milk, season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer.

Add the carrots and sweet potatoes, cover loosely and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the green beans and garbanzo beans, cover and simmer until all the vegetables are tender, about 10-15 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the season. Serve with brown rice and garnish with cilantro.

Six servings.

Condiments

I guess I write a lot about condiments, because I love them so much; the only person I know with more condiments in their fridge is my friend Michael in Chicago! While I have gone on and on about mustard, Sriracha and various little bottles of deliciousness, I thought I would highlight a couple of others you should consider adding to your pantry to use regularly.

Heinz Chile Sauce
One of Heinz's classics, this is ketchup with a slight kick. Enjoy it with sweet potato fries or mix with with mayonnaise for a creamy, spicy dipping sauce.  Many people also use it as a 'secret' ingredient in cocktail sauce.

Pickapeppa Sauce
A Jamaican original since 1921, Pickapeppa is like Worcestershire sauce with a little something extra. It has flavors of citrus and the oak barrels it's aged in, so brings that umami essence everyone likes to talk so much about. Basically, you can add it to anything savory. Or try the classic, 'Big Easy' which is Pickapeppa on cream cheese...just add crackers.

Cholula Lime
Cholula is a hot sauce from a recipe that claims to be over 100 years old, produced by three generations. It's been available is the US for about 20 years and is delicious on everything. I literally put it on everything. But they've added some new flavors profiles, including one with lime which is delicious on tacos, burritos, soup, i.e. on everything. Look for the green wooden top instead of the traditional blond wood one.

Herdez Salsa
A friend introduced me to Herdez salsa while I was living in Wichita; she was addicted to the green salsa they produce. I do love it, but their salsa casera is also delicious. It's what I think of as a more traditional Mexican salsa--perhaps made without the tamato sauce that is the basis of many produced in the US? So even though it is a jarred salsa, it seems very fresh. It fries up perfectly for chilaquiles and is the perfect addition to your favorite tacos.

Now, back to mustard...

BBQ Pizza, BBQ Everything

For dinner tonight, I made BBQ "chicken" pizzas and they were pretty delicious. For the "chicken," I rehydrated Butler Soy Curls and seasoned them with thyme, garlic powder, onion powder and a little BBQ sauce. For the sauce, I used my new favorite which is the hickory flavor from Garland Jack's Secret Six made in Garland, TX right outside of Dallas.  It is delicious on everything and I suggest that if you cannot find a bottle in your store, you should order some online. They don't stock the "squealin' hot" flavor here, so I think am going to order some of that.  So, started with the special sauce, added thinly sliced red onion, a mixture of Daiya cheeses, soy curls and them topped them with fresh cilantro when it came out of the oven. Of course, I had to spice mine up with a little Sriracha sauce, but I have to do that regardless of what kind of pizza it is!

Green Chile Pasta

When we were in Mexico a couple of years ago, we had dinner at a little Italian place, twice I think--it was either that or another quesadilla!  They served an avocado pasta sauce that somehow blended the ingredients of the Yucatan with the cuisine of Italy. It was more than memorable, it was unique and special. Unforgettable.

I haven't tried to recreate it, but the idea has lingered in my mind. And the other day I was thinking about those green chiles in my freezer, the avocado sauce, citrus...and a creamy pasta sauce. This was my first attempt, but I think it turned out very well...

Recipe: Green Chile-Avocado Pasta Sauce
The subtle heat and buttery flavor of the Hatch chiles is emphasized by the avocado and lime. Utterly delicious and decadent.

Ingredients
1 lb. bow tie or linguine pasta
6-7 Hatch (Anaheim) green chiles, roasted, seeded and skinned (you should be able to find those in your freezer if you went to all of that trouble earlier in the year.)
1 large avocado, seeded, diced and skinned
Zest and juice of one lime
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 oz. cream cheese (This is what I did with the leftover from the Hot Onion Soufflé!)
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup cilantro, thick stems removed
1 Serrano pepper, halved and seeded, cut into large pieces
Salt to taste

Directions
Cook pasta according to directions on the package. In a food processor, combine all the other ingredients and process until smooth. Once pasta is cooked, reserve 1/2 cup pasta water, drain and stir in sauce. Add pasta water until a smooth, creamy consistency is reached. Taste and adjust seasoning.

I added a can a drained and rinsed garbanzo beans, but you could choose any protein you might like.

How Very Entertaining

 

 

We haven't done a lot of entertaining since moving west.  Work is always busy, plus there is a lot of travel and then we don't have many friends here yet.  But, we had a few friends over for cocktails on Saturday night and it was very enjoyable.  We had gone to the effort to decorate for the holidays, so it was nice to share the season plus fun to plan the food and service.  Of course, that meant digging into storage, because a lot of the entertaining accoutrement is still in boxes due to lack of space.  Or maybe it is due to having too much stuff!

Regardless, it was fun and I planned a simple menu with a few favorites to share.  For drinks, we had wine, a seasonal beer flavored with ginger and pomegranate Manhattans.  Now, I love a classic Manhattan, preferably on the rocks--but I will also enjoy them straight up.  However, one Christmas when a blizzard trapped us in Omaha, I took solace in the delicious pomegranate Manhattans served in our hotel bar.  The secret?  Pama liqueur which you simply substitute for the sweet vermouth.  You can garnish with fresh pomegranate if you like or stick to the traditional cherry and orange twist.  Very festive for the holidays!

Recipe: Pomegranate Manhattan
3 parts bourbon
1 part Pama liqueur
1 dash Angustora bitters per drink

Combine in a pitcher, stir gently to combine.  Serve over ice garnished with a cherry and twist of orange.  It's a simple proportion that allows you to make a little or a lot.  I like Weller's bourbon, but use what you like.

For eats, I pulled out some standards: Mushroom Pecan Pâté, Baked Artichoke Hearts and Hot Onion Soufflé to which I added a selection of cheeses, almonds, olives, my favorite bread sticks, crackers and some pickly things including dad's pickled okra, little cornichons and some carrot slices I made.  I just realized that although I have mentioned it repeatedly in posts, I've never shared the recipe for my Hot Onion Soufflé here, so I'm doing that now.  It's a favorite and couldn't be simpler.  I've tweaked the recipe a little over the years, but this is where it currently stands.

Recipe: Hot Onion Soufflé
20 oz. of cream cheese, softened  (That's two and half 8 oz. packages, what you do with the rest of that third 8 oz. package is between you and your god.)
4 oz. of plain goat cheese, softened
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
Pinch of salt
2 cups grated Parmesan cheese (get the good stuff) plus a little more for the top
14 oz. bag of frozen, chopped onion, thawed and water squeezed out in a colander or dishtowel

Okay, first you're asking yourself: why would I buy frozen, chopped onion?  Can't I just use fresh?  Well, yes, of course you can, but that is the beauty of this delicious crowd-pleaser: you don't even have to chop onions!

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees.  In a big yellow bowl, combine the cream cheese, goat cheese, mayonnaise, onion powder, garlic powder and salt.  Mix with a wooden spoon until combined.  Now you may think, "I'll just use my silicone spatula to mix this up," but save yourself the trouble and use a wooden spoon like I said.  It's not difficult to mix this together, but using the right tool specified by the author does make it a little easier.  Once that is smooth and creamy, add the onion and Parmesan cheese and continue to mix until well combined.  Taste and adjust seasoning.

Now here is where you have to make a decision: conventially, I usually put this in a glass pie plate, top it with more grated Parmesan cheese and bake it for about 20 minutes or until the top is golden and the entire thing is a bubbly, lava pit of creamy cheese.  But, if you're planning on serving it at a cocktail party with several waves of people, you can divide it between two dishes as I did with the small cast-iron skillets above to have one on the table and other in reserve.  Either way, you want a dish that is on the shallow side to increase the ratio of delicious browned topping to creamy, molten interior.

At this point, you're thinking, "This all sounds delicious and simple, but what do I serve it with?" And that my friend is the easiest thing of all: Hot Onion Soufflé is good on anything, from crackers to toast points.  But, I have learned by serving it with anything and everything, it is absolutely best on...Frito scoops.  Yes, Fritos.  Perhaps you think you're too classy to serve Fritos at a cocktail party?!  You're a foodie and you would never serve a dip made with cream cheese that also contains powdered onion and garlic the author is suggesting you serve with some chip you can buy anywhere and isn't even some artisnal item from a small-batch producer in northern California.  Well, I am not too classy.  And let me tell you something, your guests aren't either and they will eat every bit of this stuff WITH the Fritos and lick it off their fingers.  Promise.

If, and I repeat, IF there is any leftover, it is just as good cold the next day from the fridge while you are doing the dishes.  Heck, you might even think of cutting the crust off some bread and making tea sandwiches with it.  Or just a grilled cheese you can dip in tomato soup.  Or a Hot Onion Soufflé quesadilla?!  You can't go wrong.

Happy holidays!  Enjoy your time with family and friends...

Hatched

Hatch green chiles are special; somehow the minerals and soil in Hatch, NM turn your ordinary Anaheims into something extraordinary. That's terroir for ya. In Texas, lots of stores roast the chiles during the season, so you can buy them by the pound and stash them away in the freezer. It's a little bit of work to peel and seed them, but the payoff is getting to pull green chiles from your secret stash and make something delicious--like a Hatch green chile enchilada sauce!



Recipe: Hatch Green Chile Enchilada Sauce
Vegetable oil
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
2 cloves of garlic, finely minced
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp oregano
1 1/2 cups frozen Hatch green chiles, thawed
1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
Juice of one small lime

In a large saucepan, sauté the onion in the oil over medium heat until it softens; five to seven minutes. Add the garlic, cumin and oregano and continue to sauté for two more minutes. Add the chiles and continue to cook, stirring frequently for few minutes. Add the vegetable broth and cilantro, bring to a boil and then simmer for five minutes. Using an immersion blender, purée until the sauce is smooth. Add salt and adjust seasoning, simmer ten minutes longer until slightly reduced. Stir in the lime juice and then use to make your favorite enchiladas! Mine were filled with soy curls and Daiya cheese, then topped with more sauce and sesame seeds. Delicious.



I served mine with a smoky black bean soup, sliced avocado and diced, fresh white onions. The soup call for two cans of chipotle peppers--I mean two CANNED chipotle peppers. Classic mistake. It's spicy and delicious--perfect for a chilly fall evening. Puréeing some of the soup at the end and adding it back makes for a thick, amazing broth. I'll definitely make it again.

Curry Favor

Recipe: Coconut Curried Squash 
Vegetable oil 
1 small onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced 
1 tbsp fresh minced ginger 
2 tsp. curry powder 
1 1/3 cup of coconut milk 
2 small delicate squash, 
1 acorn squash or other medium squash; roasted or cooked and diced into bite-sized pieces 
1 16 oz can of garbanzo beans, drained and well rinsed 
1 cup frozen peas 
Salt and pepper to taste 

In a large saucepan, heat the oil and onion and cook until it turns translucent, about five to seven minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, stirring and cooking until it is fragrant, about one minute. Add the curry powder and cook for one minute longer. Stir in the coconut milk, squash and garbanzo beans and simmer over low until the sauce is thickened. Stir in the peas and continue to cook until they are warmed. Season with salt and pepper; taste and adjust seasoning. Serve warm with rice or other accompaniments. 

Serves four as a side dish; two as a main.

Recipe: Indian BBQ Tofu
Vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
1 1/3 cup ketchup
1/3 cup distilled white vinegar
1/3 cup unsulphured molasses
Pinch of sugar
3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground coriander
2 teaspoons garam masala
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 16 oz blocks of extra firm tofu

In a large saucepan, heat three tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until translucent, 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant. Add the ketchup, vinegar, molasses, sugar, mustard, cinnamon, ground coriander and cayenne and simmer over low heat, stirring, until it's reduced and thickened; about five minutes. Stir in the garam masala and season with salt and black pepper.

Meanwhile, drain and pat dry the tofu. If you are not using an dry, extra firm variety, it may be necessary to press some of the moisture from each block. Slice each block width-wise into twelve pieces.

Place some of the sauce in a medium sized casserole. Dredge each piece of tofu in the sauce and layer into the casserole, topping each layer with a little more sauce. After all of the tofu is in the dish, add some additional sauce to the top and make sure it is all well covered. Cover and chill overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. On a jelly roll pan coated in aluminum foil, layout the tofu. Use a pastry brush or spoon to make sure the pieces have a good coating of the sauce. Bake for twenty minutes, then flip the slices, apply additional sauce and bake for an additional twenty minutes. Serve warm with rice, naan or other Indian dishes and additional sauce reheated and spread over the top. 

Makes four servings.

Devotee of the Diminutive

I can't help it, my passion for little bowls, tiny cookware and petite pots is insatiable.  I cannot pass them up and have a collection, both vintage and new, of crocks, pots, tagines and bowls in a smaller scale.  They're fun to use for service and parties, filled with dips, sauces or individual bites of something delicious.  While we don't entertain as often or to the scale we used to, I still buy them thinking I will do something fun for a brunch, dinner or house guests.

So, I picked up some little rectangular bakers for when I might need them...

...seeing them in the cabinet makes me smile, but I need some ideas for the bakers!  I was thinking a two-bite crème brûlée?  Or a petite pot de crème?  Note: the photo may show four, but of course there are eight.

I also bought a color wheel of individual cast iron skillets that were on sale at the grocery store.  Even the cashier at HEB asked me what I was going to make in them!  Hmmm...help?

Peanut Butter Heaven

Your chocolate fell into my peanut butter!  Your peanut butter got on my chocolate!  I think I have started at least three other blogs posts with a similar refrain, but you know the drill: peanut butter and chocolate are a classic, delicious combination.  Consider its many iterations: Reese's, Buckeyes, Peanut Butter Oreos (and their Paul Newman knock offs) and the classic DQ Peanut Buster Parfait.  To name just a few.

But have you made peanut butter frosting?  If not, you're in for a wonderful surprise: it is even better than you could possibly imagine.  On top of your favorite chocolate cake?  Heaven.  Sandwiched between chocolate cookies?  Amazing.  Topping your favorite double chocolate chunk brownie recipe?  Against. The. Law.

I got it from Martha and only made a slight adjustment: vanilla, which complements everything.

Recipe: Peanut Butter Frosting


2/3 cup natural, creamy peanut butter
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1 tsp. vanilla

In a big yellow bowl, cream peanut butter and butter on high speed with hand blender until smooth and creamy. Switch to low speed and add sugar until combined, then add vanilla and mix on high until it is smooth.

Loafing

Occasionally, we all get strange, unexplainable cravings and I have had one recently for 'meat' loaf. I know, I know: very retro. And it's evil twin? Lentil loaf? A favorite of aging hippies everywhere. You can buy a good loaf from a couple of the natural food purveyors in the frozen food section, but I wanted to make my own. After doing some research, I combined several different ideas into something delicious, but pretty darn good for you! Tofu, lentils, oats and flax all come together with spices and vegetables to create a savory dinner perfect with roasted veggies...but next time I'm serving it with mashed potatoes!

Recipe: Lentil-Tofu Loaf
For the loaf:
2 tbsp. of olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
14 oz. tofu, drained, patted dry
4 oz. mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. dried thyme
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 carrots, shredded (about 1/2 cup)
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1/2 tsp. liquid smoke
1 16. oz. can lentils (2 cups)
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
2 tbsp ground flax
1/3 cup vegetable broth

For the glaze:
3/4 cup ketchup
2 tsp. cumin
2 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp. brown sugar
1 tbsp. spicy mustard
Dash of Tabasco or other pepper sauce

Preheat oven to 375℉.

Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook until soft and translucent; loosely crumble the tofu into the skillet and sauté until it begins to lightly brown. It will crumble into smaller pieces as you cook it. Add the mushrooms, garlic and spices and continue to cook until the mushrooms have softened and their juices have cooked off. Add the carrots, soy sauce and liquid smoke, then cook for two more minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

For the glaze, combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a small bowl, mix the ground flax seed and broth to make a 'flax egg,' set aside.

In a food processor, process one cup of the lentils and one cup of the oats until coarsely ground. Spoon into a big yellow bowl. Add the cooked onion/mushroom/carrot mixture, remaining lentils and oats. Add the flax egg and 2/3 cup of the glaze. Mix to combine. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.

Line a 9"x5" loaf pan with non-stick foil and spray with non-stick cooking spray. Spoon the lentil mixture into the loaf pan and press into the pan. Spoon about half of the remaining glaze on top of the loaf.

Put the loaf pan in the oven and bake for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, tent with foil and allow to cool for ten minutes.

Vegaquiles

In a follow up to my post on the difference between migas and chilaquiles, I offer another option: vegaquiles!  Or, I guess you could say vigas...

I try to follow a vegan diet at home, but I say try because it isn't an absolute sort of thing.  Rather, a way to eat more veggies and less animal products.  I'm not changing the name of this blog to 'Vegan at Home' or anything.  It's still about delicious eats, but as I think a lot of people can tell you, the ideas of 'vegan' and 'delicious' are not in contradiction.  Take for instance this recipe for vegaquiles...

Idea: Vegaquiles
The basis of this recipe is the wonderful recipe for tofu scramble provided by Post Punk Kitchen and published in Vegan Brunch, one of my favorite cookbooks for a variety of reasons.  I made a few subtle changes to the recipe to make it more appropriate for the vegaquiles.

1. Omit the thyme and use oregano or Mexican oregano.
2. Add 1 tsp. each of onion powder and garlic powder to the spice mix.
3. Use 4-5 tbsp. of vegetable broth in place of the water.  You want a little more liquid for for the vegaquiles to come together.
4. Move the scramble to a plate while you fry up the chips; use a new skillet or clean out the scramble skillet well.  If you don't, you'll end up with a bunch of burned spices coating your chips.
5. Otherwise, proceed with the directions in difference using stale tortilla chips, pico and your favorite salsa.  Lucky me, I had leftovers from Rosa's again!  How did that happen?

I topped mine with red and green salsa (Christmas style!) and a mix of Daiya cheeses.  Delicious way to start a Sunday morning...

Salad Evenings

Hot days? Warm evenings? What better way to refresh than a fresh, crisp salad?! That's what I did this evening, layering together a variety of delicious ingredients and topping them with the most amazing dressing:
Butter lettuce
Matchstick carrots
Garbanzo beans
Little brown mushrooms, thinly sliced
Crisp cucumber
Sweet potatoes (the only thing I cooked in the microwave and then sliced)
Slivers of almonds
Finely, sliced green onion
A sprinkle of sesame seeds and a grind of pepper

...and this delectable dressing

Recipe: Ginger, Miso and Carrot Dressing
1/2 cup white miso
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup (packed) finely grated peeled carrot
2 tablespoons finely grated peeled ginger
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
4 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons sugar (the recipe used honey)
Place all ingredients plus 1/4 cup water in a resealable container. Cover and shake vigorously until well combined. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Difference

Sometimes, things you think are the same are actually different.  Take for instance, the breakfast taco and breakfast burrito.  Anyone who has ever eaten a breakfast taco and a breakfast burrito can probably tell you: they aren't the same thing.  It's about proportion, scale and sometimes ingredients.  But some people, even Texas Monthly prescribes the difference to regional nomenclature, suggesting a breakfast taco and burrito are identical.  But just about any child (in Texas anyways) can tell you that, besides proportion and scale, a burrito is rolled, whereas a taco is folded.

Which brings me to migas.  And chilaquiles.  ¿Cuál es la diferencia?

The Epicurious Food Dictionary definition says:

chilaquiles [chee-lah-KEE-lehs]
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn TORTILLA strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green CHILES, cheese, CHORIZO and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like LASAGNA and baked.


The dictionary doesn't define migas, but Wikipedia offers the explanation for the Tex-Mex version, in addition to Spanish and Portuguese iterations:


migas [me-gus]
In Tex-Mex cuisine, migas [me-gus] are a traditional breakfast dish consisting of scrambled eggs mixed with strips of corn tortilla; the meatless version includes diced onions, sliced chile peppers, diced fresh tomatoes, and cheese, plus various spices and condiments (e.g. salsa or pico de gallo). Migas are typically served with refried beans, and corn or flour tortillas are used to enfold all of the ingredients into tacos. The tortilla strips can also be deep-fried until crunchy

And then some places serve chilaquiles with eggs.  So what is what?  Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I tend to think definitions are important.  We have so many words in the English language, many of them borrowed from other countries and cultures, so we have the opportunity to be very specific.  Like the difference between burrito and taco!  Blurring definitions is simply lazy, which probably makes me sound old.  You're probably hearing, "why don't they teach handwriting in the public schools anymore!"

Which brings me to: addiction.  And after my confession, perhaps you can tell me what I'm making?

After moving to West Texas, I quickly became addicted to Rosa's.  Located all across West Texas, and even as far away as Dallas, Rosa's makes pretty delicious fast, Mexican food--there is no reason to go to Taco Bell.  Never.  But, what makes Rosa's special is their tortillas, which are made fresh right there in each and every store.  You can watch.  And, that is how they elevate something as simple as a bean burrito (rolled!) with cheese and delicious salsa into a revelation: bean and cheese and salsa inside a warm, soft flour tortilla probably just pulled off of the line.  Seriously, I start thinking about it and my mouth begins to water.  I pass Rosa's and I start thinking about how long I can keep myself from it.

And their chips.  And their queso!  So good.  But then you end up with a bag full of leftover chips.  Chips that were made fresh in store and don't really keep.  Chips that are pretty stale the next morning.  What to do?  Migas/chilaquiles!

So here is easy, breezy morning migas/chilaquiles when you have leftover or stale chips, some salsa, a couple of eggs...and a little cheese.

Heat some vegetable oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add enough chips to cover the bottom of the pan in one layer.  The idea is to fry the chips so they crisp up again, so stir them and turn them until they start to get a little brown.

Meanwhile, crack and beat two eggs with a little salt.  Ready your salsa (I use about 1/3 cup), some garlic and fresh pico, about 1/4 cup if you have  it (at Rosa's, they have it, so I have it.).

Once the chips are lightly brown, take the pan off the heat and add the garlic (enough) and stir until it starts to cook.  Then, dump in the salsa and pico.  It's probably going to sizzle and splatter a little.  Return to the heat and cook until the salsa is reduced a little.  Lower the temperature, add the eggs and cook until they are scrambled right into that mess.

Top with cheese and a little more salsa and voila!  Migas.  Or chilaquiles with eggs.  Or something else, I don't know.  The bottom line is that it's an easy, delicious breakfast on Sunday morning and a perfect way to use up stale chips or tortillas with your favorite salsa.  This serves two!