Arsenal (aka Batterie de Cuisine)

What is the arsenal? No, I do not have a gun safe or keep them secreted away behind the walls. For me, the arsenal is about entertaining or preparing food. The tools needed for making or serving something, for making the table look nice. As you all know, I love adding special things to the arsenal, things that inspire recipes or menu selections. Here are few recent additions:

Never pass up tongs. Never, ever pass up tongs on sale! These are great for pickly things, olives or other tiny bites on the table. I love bamboo tongs (I have a couple from my Grandmother's arsenal), but these stainless steel ones are fab.

More salad servers! I posted six different salad servers here almost a year ago, and that wasn't all of them. Yes reader, I was holding out on you. David sent this new set from West Elm and they look fantastic in the oddly shaped, dark brown salad bowl. I like to see something new, and these were definitely new.

Let them eat cake! And pie! I love melamine. It is one of my favorite materials, so this melamine pie and cake server set from IKEA was impossible to resist. The edges are surprisingly sharp as well. Perfect for whatever dessert you are planning to serve.

Mitchell nabbed these lovely little place card holders from the boutique at our recent fundraiser. They are glass and from Czechoslovakia. Very unique and will look fantastique on a spring table.

Jimmy and Ellie brought this lovely dish back to us from their trip to Maryland. I love it's organic qualities, plus the matte glaze is probably my favorite when it comes to pottery. AND, I had admired it at their house. Very thoughtful!

Gadget: Kona Coffee Maker

I don't make coffee at home very often. Maybe one day on the weekend? There were several years when I didn't take caffeine at all, but now I'm at the point where I have to have it. Again. Everyday. Every morning. So, I stop by the corner to get a cup, and visit with Boo or Keith or Chelsea. Sometimes I sit for a few minutes and read something for work or make a phone call. For me it's nothing fancy, just brewed coffee or an au lait. If it's warm and I am at Starbucks, I'm a big fan of the double shot on ice. Otherwise, I pretty much stay away from espresso drinks.

As far as the process at home is concerned, I have been a devotee of the French press for about ten to twelve years. I agree with the idea that it produces some of the best coffee, the thought being that since the filter doesn't absorb any of the oil, a more flavorful coffee is extracted from the coarsely-ground beans. Of course, since the filter doesn't absorb any of the oil, a more cholesterol-laden coffee is extracted from the coarsely-ground beans. Best enjoyed in moderation, but delicious none the less.

However, I had been wanting a different option for brewing. You might think, "He probably wants something more automatic. One of those pod-espresso makers or something like that." But no. I have had my eye on the Bodum Kona coffee maker for awhile. Again, non-electrical. I like the process: coarsely ground beans, hot water poured over them. No buttons, no muss and no fuss. I am a Luddite when it comes to coffee (although I do use an electric grinder!) and like the vessels, especially the hourglass shape of the Kona. Of course, it's a blatant rip-off of the classic, Chemex coffee system which has been in production since the 1950s. And I had actually decided on a Chemex version, until I found the Kona on sale for a song at Sur la Table.* It comes with a permanent filter that is easily cleaned and make delicious and very strong coffee. I'm still working on the measurements and the process, but feel like an early morning chemist while I'm at my work with this great coffee beaker.

*They don't have it on-line, but if you have a store close to you I'm sure they have it on the sale shelves.


Shopping: Am I the Last to Know?

Is it possible I'm the last person to know about Fante's Kitchen Ware Shop? If not, I'm happy to share the secret with you: too much wonderful stuff, apparently all under one roof. Fante's opened in 1906 and was a family-run business in Philadelphia, PA until the 1980s. I've never been to the store, but will plan a trip SOON to explore it myself.

Until then, I'll enjoy shopping on-line for wonderful items in their surprisingly vast array of goods. What I might buy:
The possibilities are ENDLESS.

Sigh.


Gadget: Salad Days

I'll admit it: I have a weakness for salad tongs. First of all, if you're on a trip somewhere at a great home store (say, Bloomingdale's Home in Chicago) and you see a great set of salad tongs, it's easy to slip them into the suitcase. Secondly, if you have a lot of dishes and might catch some flack for purchasing more when you get home, it's also easy to sneak said tongs into the house and later convince your spouse they have been there forever and that if they were more observant, they probably would have noticed. Plus, salad tongs are an easy way to mix up the dinner service and add a little bit of flair to a starter course of the meal, whether for guests or just for you.

Salad tip: bottle dressings are a waste of money. It's almost as easy to mix up a batch of vinaigrette yourself, right in the salad bowl. After it's mixed, simply top with your greens and put in to the fridge to chill, waiting until just before you're ready to serve to toss.

Here's my collection of salad tongs: some old, some new, none you can borrow, one set that's blue.

This set is in its original box and also has matching salt and pepper shakers.

This is probably my favorite set: red plastic that references gingko leaves. It looks great with the pink and green salad bowl, but equally at home with the wood bowl or just plain old Pyrex.

This is a vintage set I got at the auction from the Wonder Woman estate. It's part of the original service designed for the invisible jet. Sadly, the invisible salad bowl went for far above the reserve and I wasn't able to get it.

This set is blue on blue, but it's difficult to tell in the photo. The opposite side of each is dark blue and light blue, for an interesting look. Crate and Barrel currently has them in green.

This lovely set was a gift and is so very Pucci, 1960s.

Mitchell gave me this set, also in the original box, as an early Christmas present. Unique!

Recipe/Gadget: Hungarian Shortbread

I inherited a propensity for kitchen gadgetry from my grandmother, who was always the first to get the bread maker, juicer or Cuisinart. They would usually get used for a while, then she would move onto the next one. I try to be selective, not replacing things which don't replaced or buying items that aren't helpful for kitchen prep. But, I have had my eye on this springform pan from Lekue for a while, because it really does take a classic kitchen pan and make it into something better.
  1. The springform collar is made from silicone and fits much tighter than a conventional metal on metal pan, eliminating drips that can occur with thin batters.
  2. The porcelain base looks great once your cheesecake, quiche or cake is done.
  3. Both are very easy to clean

Mom and dad gave me the springform pan for Christmas, so I was excited to give it a quick trial by fire and made what has quickly become one of my favorite cookie recipes: Hungarian Shortbread.

Recipe: Hungarian Shortbread
This appeared in the butter issue of Saveur magazine last year, based on one in Dorie Greenspan's Baking with Julia. I made it last year for work where it was consumed with 'oohs' and 'ahs.' Grating the dough may seem like a lot of work, but the heavenly texture it produces is worth the effort. I used the last of the homemade jam that Phyllis Dye Turner gave me this summer. There was just enough and it was perfection.

2 cups flour, plus more as needed
1 tsp. baking powder
1⁄8 tsp. fine salt
1⁄2 lb. unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla
3⁄4 cup raspberry jam

In a big yellow bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside. Cream butter in a large bowl, using a hand mixer on high speed, until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add sugar, vanilla and egg yolks; mix until sugar is dissolved and mixture is light, about 4 minutes. With mixer on low speed, slowly add flour mixture; mix until dough just begins to come together, about 1 minute.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface; bring it together with your hands. Divide dough in half and form 2 balls. Wrap each ball in plastic wrap; freeze for at least 30 minutes or up to 3 hours.

Arrange an oven rack in center of oven; heat to 350°. Grease a 9" springform pan with butter. Remove a ball of dough from freezer, unwrap, and grate, using the large holes of a box grater, directly into prepared pan. Gently pat grated dough to even it out. Spread jam evenly over dough, leaving about a 1⁄2" border around edges. Grate remaining dough over jam layer; pat gently until surface is even. Bake until light golden brown, about 25–30 minutes. Let cool completely in pan, on a rack, before cutting into wedges.


Mangez!


Gadget: Silicone Tagine

I thought I had seen just about every possible kitchen apparatus reconsidered in easy, non-stick silicone, from spatulas to cupcake pans and ice cube trays. But, I had not. Yesterday, when scanning the sales at TJ Maxx, I spotted something new: a silicone tagine.

The tagine is the traditional conical shaped 'pan' of Morocco and used in the preparation of the dish of the same name. The cover collects condensation, returning liquids to the cooking food and producing succulent morsels served with couscous. The Moroccan version is generally made from heavy clay and decorated with....Moroccan designs. What else?! Several European manufacturers have reimagined the tradition dish in cast iron, including Staub and Le Creuset. You often have a choice of colors for the enameled tops. The silicone version from Okra is much cheaper, although probably a little smaller than the cast-iron versions. It's oven safe up to 426 degrees and can also be used in the microwave. It's available in raspberry or black for about $20. For recipes to use in your tagine, check here.

Pantry Raid

Last week when Katie was over, I opened the pantry to offer her some tea and found a giant sausage sitting on the bottom shelf. Now, considering I haven't eaten meat in about twelve years or so, I don't think I placed the sausage there. Perhaps one of my cheeky friends? I'm sure no one is going to own up to this little prank, but if you would like to anonymously comment to this post and let me know how long the sausage has been there, I'd be very happy. That was the test right? How long will it take for Brian to notice the giant sausage in the pantry? I just want to know how I did...

So, after the shaman left from the cleansing ritual I had to enact because of the presence of meat in my pantry (The shamanic cleansing cost $500, so if you ever own up to the sausage, expect an invoice.), and after I had done a personal smudging of the space, and after I had cleaned it from top to bottom with a mixture of Kaballah water and sea salt....I decided it was time for a reorganization! I mean, if someone can sneak a giant sausage through my front door and into my pantry right under my nose, I'm clearly not as organized as I should be.

This reorganization resulted in a complete paradigm shift. In the past, I had grouped together like foods by storage method and usage. In the spare spaces, I had stashed overflow utensils and other kitchen instruments. On top of these, odds and ends were crammed into nooks and crannies. While this was useful and worked for the most part, I thought a higher level of organization was possible. I decided to try and include aesthetic choices as part of the overall construction of the space. Pleased with the results, I thought some of the ideas might be useful to you, dear reader.

The first thing I did was group all of my wonderful pickled vegetables together on a single shelf for some strong visual impact. These are all tomatoes and okra that my dad put up from things grown in his garden. I actually didn't realize I had so much okra, so I am officially not rationing it any longer. On the shelf above, I arranged an array of colorful mugs more intentionally. I even weeded out three mugs that I have been moving around for about twenty years. Advice: do not becoming emotionally involved with coffee mugs. I also placed the coffee making tools very close and balanced three lovely, orange egg cups on the edge to add depth of field. The colors are bright, cheerful and the entire arrangement says 'I'm ready for breakfast at any time.' In front of the pickly things, I placed a plastic Kachina and an engraved Hindu goddess who had both been living in the pantry. Now that they are front and center, I officially charged them with oversight of the space in the future.

As I mention, some kitchen odds and ends are also grouped in the space. This vintage ice crusher had been crammed into the corner, but I placed it between the canned goods and the array of jams and jellies. (I have strawberry now, for those of you who have been following the jelly saga.) It's a fun object I don't use often, but do enjoy seeing.

Honestly, I was trying to weed out a little as I went through everything and came across two small platters I hadn't used in a coon's age. I was going to put them in the Goodwill pile, but then realized they would be perfect for storing vinegars, oils, honey, molasses and other items which have a tendency to drip onto the shelves. They not only add color, but make clean up simple.

I had my sugar and baking supplies in bags piled on the shelves to the side, while these three canisters my mother received as wedding gifts languished in the bottom of a cabinet. They're in use again and bring a strong metallic element to the palette of the pantry. Notice reader, I said palette. Think about color and texture as you decide what goes into your space.

Boxes and canisters of tea seem to multiply in the pantry. Where did all it come from? Likewise, packages of napkins from parties past and future grow and spill off the shelf. The solution? Container Store. They always have your back. I bought two baskets made from thinly rolled Asian newspaper that are chic and keep tea and napkins neatly contained. That way, next time someone wants tea (which was started this whole story in the first place), I can just grab the box and let them choose away. Simple.

Remember:
1. Organize not just for ease of use, but also for looks. You have to open the pantry a couple of times everyday, it might as well seem exciting.
2. Think color and texture. Eventually, I would like to paint the walls of the pantry a nice, soft orange and leave the shelves a clean, bright white. What is going on your shelves? What do your containers look like? Would some dark baskets spruce things up? What about some colorful pots that are in a closet? Could you put some rarely used utensils in them?
3. Decorate everything. Some vintage cookbooks, a small statue or a favorite item could easily add a little bit of life to your shelves. Magazines are always reminding you that bookshelves aren't just for books and I am saying that pantry shelves are not just for cans of beans.
4. Use trays to organize items and keep the place clean. If it goes on something, it's much less likely to wander.
5. Watch out for sausage!

Time to Entertain?

It's that time of the year again, when all the cooking magazines on the newsstands are covered with turkeys, cakes and other holiday treats. How are you doing on serving pieces? Do you have enough platters, bowls and accoutrement to handle your guests and hosting obligations?

If not, can I make a few suggestions? (I promise I won't subject you to a parade of all of my serving pieces, which could take all day...)

Williams-Sonoma (not Williams and Sonoma...) has some great new platters available. They come in two different sizes and are very flat, with just the tiniest lip on the edge. Since these don't curve up on the sides, service space is maximized allowing you to pile hors d'ouevres, cookies or candy as high as you like.

The Leo all-purpose glass from Crate and Barrel is affordable and slightly different than many of the wine glasses on the market. These would be perfect for your holiday bar, but also for serving dessert. Think: individual trifles, piles of chocolate mouse or scoops of ice cream. Multiple uses means you can easily justify the purchase, but at $1.95 per glass you don't really need to!

Aluminum serving pieces from West Elm would brighten up any holiday table. Each of these pieces would mix in well with just about any table setting and could be used to stack bon bons, sweets or creme puffs to majestic heights.

Ever affordable, IKEA has a variety of bowls that would be perfect for mashed potatoes, salads and side dishes. Mix and match colors, textures and styles loosely for a table that is warm, welcome-y and homey.

One of my ugliest predilictions is for salad servers, I can't stop buying them! How many sets is too many? I have several vintage sets, in addition to ones I've picked up at Crate and Barrel, Bloomingdale's Home and elsewhere. This olivewood set from Sur la Table is truly covetable, though, and if you don't have a nice set of servers I suggest you splurge on these. They are made in Fraaaaance.

Happy Holidays!

Have you tried...

The poach pod? I haven't yet, but I might pick one up just to see how it works. According to the instructions, you simply crack an egg into each pod, then float them in simmering water until the eggs are done. It seems these would work well and give you a pefectly poached egg, but I'm unsure if the rounded shape would be ideal for preparing Benedicts, etc.

Yes, that's right. They went ahead and made your life a living hell by creating this awful product. What is it? Munchies. One bag of chips that contains a mixture of Doritos, Cheetos, Rold Gold Pretzels and SunChips. In one bag. Apparently, there is a cheese fix mixture (note the use of the word fix), a flaming hot mixture and a ranch mixture. Of course, you could buy four bags of chips and make this yourself, or you could buy this one bag and eat the entire thing in one sitting. That is what I would do if I were stupid enough to buy a bag. Which I'm not.

Shopping for Your Kitchen


Real Simple published a nice on-line shopping guides for various aspects of your home. The list for the kitchen has some great sources, if for nothing else besides browsing and dreaming.

Also, Japan's Muji (a super-stylish and affordable store featuring a wide array of items) is opening two branches in New York. While this isn't necessarily convenient for me, I'm hoping this means there will be a branch of the web store for the States. That way, we can all get some of their wonderful stuff for our kitchen.

Happy shopping!

Am I Blue?

I've been noticing a lot of blue lately, in clothes, home decor, and elsewhere. A lot of it even ventures into the teal range, which gives me vivid 80s flashbacks and makes me shake just a little. However, Sur La Table has some great things in a vivid shades of blue. I think they would wake up any sleepy kitchen and combine nicely with the orange that has been popular the last couple of years. Blue and orange is my favorite color combination, after all.


This mortar and pestle from Le Creuset seems like the perfect size for mashing up herbs in to paste or grinding up your favorite spices.
I love this little colander from Zak Designs. The blue is certainly nice, but I have it in yellow and it is perfect for a little container of berries, some grapes or pasta for one.


Who wouldn't want a blue Waring blender? Wouldn't daiquiris look great in this? Wouldn't YOU look great whipping up a batch with this blue blender? I have the classic silver, which looks great whipping up a batch of anything with. I leave the blue to you.

From the Farm

Last week I picked up the first delivery from Hairston Creek Farm, our CSA. It was filled with wonderful goodies like asparagus, salad greens, root vegetables and a bunch of chard. I have never prepared chard before, but was very intrigued by the possibilities, so I dug out this recipe from Deborah Madison and have it a shot on Monday night. The result was delicious and satisfying, perfect on a rainy evening. The chard gave the whole dish a silky, buttery taste that was simple and delicious. Try it, you'll like it.

Recipe: Chickpeas and Chard
You don't have to use a mortar and pestle to mash together the garlic and herbs, but it feels and smells great.

2 tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, finely diced
pinch or 2 of saffron threads
2 garlic cloves
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup cilantro leaves
1/4 cup parsley leaves
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. tomato paste
2 medium bunches of chard leave, with stems
2 15-oz cans chickpeas (drained and rinsed)


Heat one tbsp of oil in a wide skillet, then add onion and saffron. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes . While it cooks, pound the garlic with 1/2 tsp. salt, cilantro, parsley and cumin into a rough paste. (Or you could use the food processor.) When the onions are golden and soft (they'll be VERY yellow from the saffron, so golden is judgement call) add the herb mixture to the pan with the tomato paste and work into the onions.

Slice the chard leaves off their stems and cook in a pot with two cups of water for about 10 minutes. Move to a colander, leaving water in pot. Trip the chard stems to even lengths, then chop to a fine dice and cook in the reserved water for 10-15 minutes.

Add the chickpeas to the onion mixture with 1 cup vegetable stock or water. Coarsely chop the chard leaves and to the mixture, simmer for 10 minutes and add stems. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve with pieces of naan or pita.

Mangez!

Press and Press and Press

juicer

This new vintage-style citrus press from Williams-Sonoma works wonders on all types of fruit-- from tiny limes to small grapefruit. I love my lemon press and the lime one Barb gave me, but this all-in-one strains seeds and has a handy spout for pouring all the wonderful freshly-squeezed juice. I don't think there was a drop left in the rind! I picked mine up for cheap (almost half off) at the Pottery Barn outlet at Prime Outlets in San Marcos, TX so check them out if there is one near you. Otherwise, wait until W-S marks this beauty down.

Mangez!

Gadgets, Widgets and Techrats

I was lucky to have grown up with two grandmothers who enjoyed cooking, food and teaching others to enjoy the kitchen. Both were excellent cooks in their own right, but had completely different approaches to food. Each of them enjoyed cookbooks, but my paternal grandmother (Mam-ma) was a woman obsessed, so I come by the boxes and boxes of cookbooks I moved from Kansas to Texas honestly. In addition to cookbooks, she loved a kitchen gadget. When Cuisinarts were first introduced, she had one. Juicers? She juiced everything and anything for months. Breadmakers? They delivered a test model to her door. She had an array of cookware, baking pans and the many other things you would need to cook, bake and prepare a multitude of foods.

And I love kitchen gadgets, too. I don't spend a lot on high-end appliance gadgets, but I do like all of the little things that make life in the kitchen easier. When I bought an ice cream maker, some were dubious that it would collect dust. Not so. Not only do I use it regularly, but I recently purchased a second freezer bowl so I could make more ice cream. When I bought a cherry pitter, some said it was a ridiculous purchase since it only did one thing. Two things--it also pits olives. When it comes to kitchenry, I am of my own mind.

Two recent addition to the batterie de cuisine (I read Julia Child's new book--she's channeling it from the big kitchen in the sky--and she was continually talking about her beloved batterie de cuisine.) include a digital thermometer that was a gift from Jan and a potato ricer.

Digital termometer

Jan is a great Wichita friend, but she isn't much of a cook. In fact, she isn't a cook at all. I can't even begin to tell you how many times I caught her having a Snickers bar for breakfast--that is only the beginning. Her mother, however, is a great cook who makes the best caramel candies during the holidays. Studded with pecans, they are absolute heaven. These candies have sparked endless discussions between Jan and myself on different recipes, preparations and candies we have had over the years. As a parting gift, Jan gave me what she conceived of to be a very important kitchen tool: the digital kitchen thermometer. Since moving to Austin, I haven't really done much cooking or entertaining, but now that I'm back in a house that has changed. So I used the thermometer last night for the first time when I was preparing the potato croquetas with saffron aioli and it was fantastic. I have never had such a wonderful frying experience. The thermometer has setting for both oil and candy and you can adjust the readout to a variety of angles. Thanks Jan! I absolutely love it.

Potato Ricer

A couple of months ago I took the hands-on gnocchi workshop at the Central Market Cooking School. Gnocchi is something I have always loved, but never made. I see the many, many recipes in cookbooks and magazines, and they all seem...deceptively simple. I wanted to learn from a master gnocchi maker--and I did. She taught us all the little secrets and we made three different recipes under her supervision. Something you must have to make delicious gnocchi? A potato ricer.

I asked, "Would a food mill would work?" (I already had one of those and maybe it does two jobs, too.)
"Not if you want delicious, feather light gnocchi," she replied, "You must, must MUST have a potato ricer."

I believe her. I've made the potato croquetas with saffron aioli in the past, but yesterday's batch was the best ever. Food mills and mashers mess up the starch in the potato, making it sticky and gummy. The ricer distributes it into a million little pieces in quick motion. The result is supposed to make the best mashed potatoes in the world. Will they give my mom's mashed potatoes a run for their money? Guess I'll find out.

Mangez!

Perfect Panini

panini2

For x-mas, I received the wonderful panini pan that Mario Batali included in his new line of cookware that is available at a couple of different places. Sur la Table (my second favorite cookware store after Pryde's of Westport in KC, MO--don't miss this place if you are traveling through. I promise its worth the stop, but they're not open on Sunday so plan accordingly.) has the line in a warm orange (and espresso) that is perfect for Austin, while Crate and Barrel has it in a bright red. Being a Sooner, I probably should have got the red, but had requested the orange before I even knew they made red. Regardless, it's fantastic: a large, cast-iron pan that is enameled on the outside with those lovely little ridges on the interior that give panini their grilled look, it came with a heavy "lid" that fits down into the pan, squashing and cooking the sandwich from the top. Ingenious. I had to give it spin. I picked up some veggie ham slices, a nice Italian melting cheese, Old Farmhouse Chutney from Stonewall Kitchens and a large loaf of country French bread (slightly softer than a baguette). I brushed the bread with olive oil, assembled the ingredients and heated the pan. It will take some trial and error, but the main lesson I learned from experience number one is that the pan heats beautifully and cooks quickly, so watch those sandwiches! Mine turned out a little darker than desired, but other than that, they were great with a crispy exterior and melted cheese inside. I have some bbq seitan (All hail seitan!) that I think I'm going to try later this week. Next week, perhaps something with fig preserves or maybe mozzarella with basil and tomatoes...the possibilities are endless.

If you need ideas, both of these books look interesting:
Panini by Jo McAuley and Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill and Sandwich Maker by Laura Werlin.

Mangez!