Brownies

Everyone knows how strongly the writers at bYb feel about chocolate, because we write and talk about it all the time. We have made 175 posts in nearly four years, 31 of them mentioning chocolate in one form or another. Chocolate cookies, chocolate pie, bars of chocolate, candy, caramel, and brownies. Remember the infamous brownie war between Kathrine Hepburn and Lady Bird Johnson? That was vicious. But there is a new contender: Nick Malgieri's "Supernatural" Brownies.

In the Classic column of the most recent issue of Saveur, Dana Bowen gives a history and some theories on what makes a brownie great. She also presents three recipes: Krystal's Espresso Brownies; Katherine Hepburn's Brownies; and Nick's "Supernatural" Brownies. Well, you all know we tested Kate's against Ladybird's last year (There was no clear winner, but preference seems distinctly drawn along the Mason-Dixon line.) and I'm sorry to sound prejudice, but I'm just not sure I trust a person named Krystal when it comes to brownies. Cut-offs and canned beer, yes. Brownies, no. But Nick is the author of Chocolate: From Simple Cookies to Extravagant Showstoppers, so I felt like I should give his recipe a try. And supernatural? I mean, he didn't seem to base it on Alice B. Toklas' recipe, so I wasn't sure of the reference.

But they are. Supernatural that is. Transcendental. Dense, chocolaty and moist. Everyone at work agreed and I think that Nick may even be ready to take on Kate and Ladybird in that big brownie bake-off in the sky.

Recipe: Nick's "Supernatural" Brownies
2 sticks (16 tablespoons) butter, more for pan and parchment paper
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate
4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup flour
1/2 cup chopped walnuts or 3/4 cup whole walnuts, optional. (I made without nuts.)

Butter a 13-by-9-inch baking pan and line with buttered parchment paper. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In top of a double boiler set over barely simmering water, or on low power in a microwave, melt butter and chocolate together. Cool slightly. In a big yellow bowl or mixer, whisk eggs. Whisk in salt, sugars and vanilla.

Whisk in chocolate mixture. Fold in flour just until combined. If using chopped walnuts, stir them in. Pour batter into prepared pan. If using whole walnuts, arrange on top of batter. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until shiny and beginning to crack on top. Cool in pan on rack.

Makes 15 large or 24 small brownies.

Brownie War

Last Tuesday, I made both Katherine Hepburn and Lady Bird Johnson's brownie recipes, then took the result to a gathering of friends for a blind taste test. Everyone likes a different type of brownie, and although the two recipes are similar ingredient-wise, they go together differently. Lady Bird's is a classic creamed recipe, resulting in a very light, cake-like brownie. Kate's in a one-pan recipe (with less flower) resulting in a denser, slightly chewy brownie. Both are very good and both got three votes. A tie. Interesting.

Southern Heritage Cookie Jar Cookbook

I'm always on the lookout for cookbooks not represented in my collection and pick things up for different reasons. Sometimes, it's the illustrations that are too great to pass up. On other occasions, the author may be someone important or iconic, and I want the book even though I may never cook out of it. And of course, I actually do pick up cookbooks because I want to use the recipes. That's the case of the latest addition to my library, the Southern Heritage Cookie Jar Cookboo from the publishers of Southern Living which I got while thrift shopping in Owasso, OK.

Admittedly, most of the titles from Southern Living don't have an appeal to me because the recipes within veer too much in the direction of classic American convenience cooking. Occasionally I will find one that is rooted in traditional Southern food ways and worth making, but not often. But this fantastic cookie cookbook is filled with wonderful images that reflect Southern cookie culture in addition to great recipes. If you see it, I suggest you snap it up.

Lately there has been a lot of conversation about Lady Bird Johnson (born Claudia Alta Taylor), widow of the late President L.B. Johnson. Does she really live in a penthouse atop the LBJ Museum and Library? Is she really the person longest protected by the Secret Service? How is she feeling now that she is out of the hospital? Is her brownie recipe better than Katherine Hepburn's? You be the judge, because I'm publishing it here.

Recipe: Lady Bird's Texas Brownies
1/2 cup butter or margarine
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate, melted
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Cream the butter in a big yellow bowl; gradually add sugar, beating well. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well with each addition. Add melted chocolate and beat until blended. Gradually add flour, stirring well. Stir in vanilla and pecans. Pour batter into a greased 8-inch square baking pan.

Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes. Cool brownies completely in pan. Cut into 2-inch squares. Yield: About 1 1/2 dozen.

Postscript: Actually, after looking at the recipes, the only differences are the amount of flour (less in Kate's), the type of nut used (Walnuts vs. pecans which I think was the argument that REALLY started the Civil War.), and the addition of salt in Kate's. I do think a taste test is in order!