Restaurant: Saigon (Indianapolis)

There is very good Chinese food in Terre Haute, plus Thai and Indian food that are both pretty good. But no Vietnamese. In Austin, my house was right at the epicenter of where the Indian, Vietnamese and Mexican communities collided, which meant several things:

• Great Vietnamese food
• Great Indian food
• Great Mexican food
• Speciality grocery stores selling the ingredients to make all of the above (MT Supermarket, a Vietnamese grocery that expanded a couple of years ago is listed in the current issue of Saveur as one of the top privately owned stores in the country.)

So I miss my Vietnamese food. I miss being able to call up Sunflower and order some lemongrass tofu to go or a big bowl of noodle soup when I was feeling ill. I miss the brusk familiarity of the owner and her staff: "We know you because you come in here all of the time, but we don't really want to acknowledge that or talk to you more because of that." And the spring rolls! Rolled to order.

And when you called, she never gave you a total, told you when the order would be ready or even said goodbye. She just hung up! I miss her. So on last week's trip to Indy, I decided to try Saigon, the Vietnamese place I had read about on-line. Located in a dilapidated strip mall, it's a whole-in-the-wall place with interesting paint, strange decor and a huge TV on the wall. Above each booth, there were cutouts from the beer boxes advertising the different brews available. Oddly, they were in a different order and arrangement at each table.

I ordered:

• Spring rolls: good, but without the intense fresh flavor of the ones at Sunflower in Austin.
• Lemongrass tofu: Sunflower in Austin? What is that? This is damn good lemongrass tofu. Perhaps the best I have ever had.
• Cafe sua: delicious, cold and refreshing.

And the service? I felt like a regular after the first visit, they were friendly and attentive. There is even a small market next door. While it isn't around the corner, and I can't call for a to-go order whenever I want, it's comforting to know that some delicious Vietnamese food is just down the road.

Saigon Market and Restaurant
3103 Lafayette Rd
Indianapolis, IN 46222
Phone: (317) 927-7270

Gadget: Kona Coffee Maker

I don't make coffee at home very often. Maybe one day on the weekend? There were several years when I didn't take caffeine at all, but now I'm at the point where I have to have it. Again. Everyday. Every morning. So, I stop by the corner to get a cup, and visit with Boo or Keith or Chelsea. Sometimes I sit for a few minutes and read something for work or make a phone call. For me it's nothing fancy, just brewed coffee or an au lait. If it's warm and I am at Starbucks, I'm a big fan of the double shot on ice. Otherwise, I pretty much stay away from espresso drinks.

As far as the process at home is concerned, I have been a devotee of the French press for about ten to twelve years. I agree with the idea that it produces some of the best coffee, the thought being that since the filter doesn't absorb any of the oil, a more flavorful coffee is extracted from the coarsely-ground beans. Of course, since the filter doesn't absorb any of the oil, a more cholesterol-laden coffee is extracted from the coarsely-ground beans. Best enjoyed in moderation, but delicious none the less.

However, I had been wanting a different option for brewing. You might think, "He probably wants something more automatic. One of those pod-espresso makers or something like that." But no. I have had my eye on the Bodum Kona coffee maker for awhile. Again, non-electrical. I like the process: coarsely ground beans, hot water poured over them. No buttons, no muss and no fuss. I am a Luddite when it comes to coffee (although I do use an electric grinder!) and like the vessels, especially the hourglass shape of the Kona. Of course, it's a blatant rip-off of the classic, Chemex coffee system which has been in production since the 1950s. And I had actually decided on a Chemex version, until I found the Kona on sale for a song at Sur la Table.* It comes with a permanent filter that is easily cleaned and make delicious and very strong coffee. I'm still working on the measurements and the process, but feel like an early morning chemist while I'm at my work with this great coffee beaker.

*They don't have it on-line, but if you have a store close to you I'm sure they have it on the sale shelves.