Reminiscing: Epergne

A few weeks before Christmas, I received an e-mail from my friend April with a simple question: what is your favorite word? Interesting and fun, I initially said 'spatula,' but then confessed it was actually the favorite word of an old friend and I had stolen it from them. So, I gave my personal favorite word: epergne.

An epergne is a fancy centerpiece, traditionally made from silver (but also from glass in the late 19th century) used to serve a variety of things. You often see these archaic pieces in museums, tier upon tier of little baskets and other small containers intended to hold fruit, sweatmeats and other treats. I love the word, but I also love the object it stands for and the fact that like many serving items, it has gone the way of the dinosaur. Reader, you probably think that just because you eat your dinner with a fork, knife and spoon that your descendants 200 years from now will also eat their dinner with a fork, knife and spoon. But consider this: aristocrats didn't start using forks until the Renaissance. And what's more, they were expected to bring their own when they came to dinner! Plus, more people on this planet use chopsticks than forks. Chances are, in 200 years some completely new food delivery system will have been developed and forks will only be seen in museums. Like epergnes.

So anyway, I thought, "what a delightful game. Name your favorite word." But a few weeks later, I received a package from April containing a little frame with a my favorite word embroidered and embellished. I love it and it is truly unique. You can find fabulous things by April here.

A Foodie Moves On

The Austin-American Statesman reports that Dale Rice is leaving the paper to teach journalism at Texas A&M. I had the pleasure of dining out with Mr. Rice one evening, at a restaurant where he was actually known by the owner, which was usually not the case. Like most restaurant reviewers, Mr. Rice continued the subterfuge of the secret review alive and well, with one or two exceptions including Asti Trattoria--one of my favorite places to entertain guests of the Blanton. In any case, that night we enjoyed all kinds of treats from the kitchen, only because we were dining with a person of such import. It was a fun night and glimpse into the life of a restaurant reviewer.

The Venn Diagram of My Blogs

I have two blogs on two fairly different subjects, but a little bit of an overlap pops up every once in a while. For instance, you often see my wonderful dish finds from MTSS displaying my cooking or food finds on bYb.

Last week while I was shopping at Half-Price Books, my blog worlds collided when I found a copy of Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin's The Physiology of Taste , first published in 1825. The edition I found was the 1949 translation by M.F.K. Fisher, herself arguably one of the most important food writers of the twentieth century, with delightful illustrations by Sylvain Sauvage. The book is inscribed "Darling, I hope you enjoy this delightful gentleman & his world as much as I have done. Love & happy birthday, Mother. 1990."

Some important quotes by Brillat-Savarin:

Tell me what you eat, and I shall tell you what you are.

The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a star.

A dinner which ends without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye. (My favorite. Bring on the cheese!)

M.F.K. Fisher, a pretty woman with two eyes!

And a quote from M.F.K. Fisher
People ask me: "Why do you write about food, and eating, and drinking? Why don't you write about the struggle for power and security, and about love, the way the others do?" . . . The easiest answer is to say that, like most other humans, I am hungry. (I concur.)

You can read more about Fisher is the biography Poet of the Appetites: The Lives and Loves of M.F.K. Fisher by Joan Reardon. You can also pick up a paperback version of Fisher's translation of the Physiology of Taste at Amazon.