Anna and our tasting glasses... Posted by Hello

Faux-roast

People often make fun of vegetarians who eat mock-meat. You know, the various patties that you can buy at just about any grocery store these days? You name it and they make a simulated vegetarian version of it. From bar-b-que ribs to caviar, the pedestrian to the gourmet.

But, not only are mock-meats an easy way for vegetarians to get protein, they're often a simple way to prepare a weeknight meal. Isn't that what everyone is looking for? And while it may seem like a purely late-20th century/early-21st century obsession, many cultures have centuries-long tradition creating mock meats, particularly the Chinese.

A couple Sundays ago, I made a seitan (Satan!) roast which uses a mixture of vital wheat gluten and various flavorings that is baked and basted in the oven. Jessie and Dave came over and we had a great dinner complete with cole slaw, mashed potatoes and green beans. It was fun and pretty delicious. The recipe comes from Ken Charney and his book The Bold Vegetarian Chef. There are several variations within you can try, but this is the one I like the most.

Recipe: Faux-Roast
Basic seitan dough
2 cups vital wheat gluten (you can get at the health food store)
2 tbsp. nutritional yeast
1 tbsp. wheat germ
2 tsp. cane sugar or molasses
2 tsp. salt
1 2/3 cup water or broth

In a large bowl, combine the dry ingredients and toss to mix.

Add the water and knead the dough until most of the liquid is absorbed, about five minutes. Knead a little longer to combine flavors.

In a large bowl combine:
2 tbsp. maple syrup
2 tbsp. red wine (or water)
2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp. molasses
2 tsp. soy sauce
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 whole cloves
1 tbsp. fennel seed
2 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. caraway seeds
1 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper

(you can vary the spices in this to suit your own tastes, I often make it a little different each time and usually include a little Kitchen Bouquet as well...)

Preheat the over to 375 degrees and liberally oil a 9x5x3 loaf pan and set aside. Add the loaf of seitan to the braising liquid above knead together, working as much of the liquid into the dough as possible. Put the dough in the pan and cover with aluminum foil.

Bake for two hours, basting twice during the first hour with the pan juices.

Combine:
2 tbsp. red wine
2 tbsp. maple syrup
2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. soy sauce

Use this mixture to baste the roast a couple more times during the second hours of baking. For the last five minutes, remove the foil. When done, remove from oven and let sit. Slice and serve with your favorite sauce. Leftover make delicious sandwiches.

Mangez!


Seitan kneaded and added to the braising liquid. Posted by Hello


Seitan mid-bake, out for a basting. Posted by Hello


Seitan, sliced and on the table, ready to eat. Posted by Hello

After the opening

Last Friday night was the opening of my exhibition "A New Art History" at Trish Higgins Fine Art which is in the public spaces of Inn at the Park. It was a lot of fun and there was a great turnout, despite the crummy weather. I think a lot of people were just sick of being housebound and were looking for any excuse to be out and about.

After the opening, I had a few friends over for a late supper. I didn't take any pics, but it was such a fun and easy idea, I thought I would go ahead and include the recipe here. Basically, I made a gigantic batch of spicy peanut noodles--one of my favorite foods. I got out the chopsticks (black melamine ones, some cream colored ones with Chinese character on them and the sea animal sets for the non-chopstick users) and bought some take-out food containers. (Check your local Asian grocery!) I filled the take-out containers with noodles and then let my guests choose from a variety of add-ins. I had green onion, red pepper, cilantro, tofu, peanuts, edamame, crystallized ginger, soy sauce, hot sauce, hot oil and sesame oil. Of course we had fortune cookies! It was so fun to watch everyone standing or sitting around, slurping noodles from a box and drinking a glass of wine. AND, the clean-up was a breeze. If you wanted to, you could enlarge the meal with some dumplings, hot Asian buns, spring rolls or egg rolls--just on a large platter on the coffee table. Hmm, Do I have any large platters?

Recipe: Spicy Peanut Noodles
1/2 cup peanut butter (I use Peter Pan Plus 8)
2/3 cup tamari soy sauce
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup Oriental sesame oil
4 heaping spoonfuls of minced garlic
2 tsp. minced fresh ginger (lazy me uses the bottled stuff)
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

24 oz. udon noodles (or plain spaghetti works just fine)

Cook the noodles per directions, but you want it a little chewy--not too done. Drain and cool. Meanwhile, combine all the other ingredients in a large bowl (I use an 8-cup measuring cup.) with a whisk until smooth. Place cooled noodles in a large serving bowl, pour sauce over and toss to coat. You want to prepare this a couple of hours ahead and then allow to chill in the fridge-that way the noodles soak up all the peanutty goodness. Bring to room temperature and you may need to add a little warm water to the noodles as you toss to loosen. Garnish as desired. Doubles easily.

Mangez!


Molly and others at my opening on January 7... Posted by Hello

Recipe: Vegetarian Chili

This is particulary delicious on those cold, icy days that we have been having for the last week in the midwest. It's based on a recipe from Jeanne Lemlin's Vegetarian Classics, but I've added a few twists and consider it my own. She is one of my favorite author's and is always very inspiring with her ideas and flavors.

Recipe: Vegetarian Chili
1/4 cup olive oil
4 onions, diced
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 tbsp. chili powder
1 tbsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. dried oregano
1/8 tsp. cayenne
2 bay leaves
1 cup bulgur
3 14-ounce cans red beans, rinsed and drained
2 14-ounce cans tomatoes, drained
1 14-ounce tomato sauce
1 tbsp. tomato paste
2 tbsp. tamari soy sauce
5 cups vegetable broth
3/4 tsp. salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup molasses
2 tbsp. chopped jalapenos
1 chipotle pepper in adobo

Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and saute until onion is softened and cooked.

Add chili powder, cumin, paprika, oregano, cayenne, bay leaves and bulgur. Cook stirring constantly for at least 2 minutes.

Puree chipotle pepper with tomato paste and a little bit of the sauce. Add to onion/bulgur mixture along with molasses, beans, tomatoes, broth, jalapenos, tamari soy sauce and rest of the tomato sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Bring to a boil and then simmer for 30 minutes, stirring frequently.

Mangez!


Chili simmering in the pot Posted by Hello


Barb getting ready to enjoy seconds... Posted by Hello

Mushroom Pâté

I was talking to my friend Michael in Chicago earlier to today and telling him that I'd had my staff over (past and present) for a little after-work holiday celebration. It was fairly simple, crudités with a green goddess dip (yes, I love the Green Goddess), potato croquetas with saffron aioli (from the other holiday party menu, but if you have a good thing going, why not?) and my mushroom pâté which I serve in the traditional manner with crackers, cornichon and other little pickly things. He said the pâté sounded delicious and asked for the recipe, but since its something I just kind of throw together I had to think about it. It took a few minutes to process through it and here it is:

Mushroom Pâté:
2 tablespoons of butter
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed or finely chopped
12 ounces button mushrooms, slided
4 ounce cremini mushrooms, slided
1/3 cup mixed dried wild mushrooms, reconstituted in boiling water
1 tablespoon dried thyme
2/3 cup pecans, chopped
8 ounces of cream cheese
salt
pepper
truffle oil (optional)

In a large skillet heat the butter and garlic until it sizzles. Add the chopped onion and cook until it is softened and clear. Add the button and cremini mushrooms and saute until softened. Add the thyme and dried mushrooms, with a little bit of their water if necessary, and continue to cook until most of the moisture is evaporated. Add the pecans and toss to toast. Set aside and allow to cool for a few minutes.

In a food processor, combine the cream cheese with onion/pecan/mushroom mixture, 1 teaspoon of salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste, and a drizzle of truffle oil (if using). Process until fairly smooth and cream cheese, mushrooms and onion and thoroughly mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Line a nicely shapped dish with plastic wrap, fill with pâté and cover with additional wrap if necessary. Chill for seveal hours or overnight to allow flavors to blend. Remove from fridge and allow to come to room temperature before serving. Invert dish onto serving platter, remove plastic and garnish with cornichon, pickles, and crackers.

Holiday Party

Just because Ms. Stewart is in prison, doesn't mean any of us can let our standards slip. As usual, we threw the holiday party to end all holiday parties complete with hors d'oeuvres, punch and crafts. About 25 of our friends stopped by and I think everyone had a wonderful time.

The menu:
Dates stuffed with almonds and asiago
Pickly things
Mushroom pate in pastry/artichoke tartlets
Cheese and crackers
Potato croquetas with saffron aioli
Polenta bites with roasted red pepper and blue cheese
Chutney "chicken" salad in wonton cups
Vegetables with green goddess dip
Hummus and pita

For libation, I prepared a classic planter's punch from Ms. Stewart Christmas Cookbook and and Holiday Tonic that was alchohol free. We also had a selection of wine and beer.

In the kitchen, there was a spread of dippers for chocolate fondue including pretzels, marshmallows (vegan), peanut butter Rice Krispie treats, apricots, bananas and caramels.

Fun, fun...and more fun.


Holiday party spread... Posted by Hello

Ken Burns for Dinner

Last week my friend Barb and I went to hear the famous documentarian (eloquently introduced as a documentary person) Ken Burns speak on his experience making his Frank Lloyd Wright (Wrong) documentary. It was alright, but he basically regurgitated the film and started each little section by looking at the audience and saying, in a dramatically hushed voice, "Listen." Halfway through, I was over it. And then there were all the awful questions at the end! Argh. Barb and I did have a good time though talking about all the people as they were coming in for the lecture. We also had a nice little dinner before hand...

Dreamsicle Aperitif
Olives, pickled brussel sprouts and okra
Thyme scented tomato soup
Open-faced brie, almond and honey sandwiches

For the cocktail:
In a small glass over ice, combine 1 oz. of vanilla flavored vodka with a premium orange soda.

For the soup:
In a large stock pot, cook an onion and three cloves of garlic in a couple of tablespoons of oil until the onion has softened. Add a 26 oz. can of diced tomatoes, six cups of vegetable broth, three tablespoons of thyme, 1/4 to 1/3 cup of molasses, and a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Using an immersion blender (or a regular blender, but BE CAREFUL), puree the soup until it's smooth. If you want a perfectly clear bisque-like broth, then you're welcome to take the extra step of straining the soup. Taste and readjust salt and add pepper if you like. This light and delicious soup could be the basis for many other add-in--beans, pasta, rice, or vegetables. Next week, I think I'm going to use it to make my mother's tomato dumplings...

For the sandwiches:
For each person, toast two thinly sliced pieces of soft french bread (or the bread of your choice) under the broiler. Spread the untoasted side with a liberal amound of soft brie, then sprinkle with toasted almonds. Put back under the broiler until the cheese is warm and edges are toasty. Remove from oven and drizzle with the honey of your choice--I used Tupelo Honey.

Mangez!

Cuttin' loose in a new direction

While I was certainly enjoying all of my little reviews of cookbooks (weren't you?), I felt like I had too narrow of a topic (story of my life--every paper I have ever written is based on a subject that is addressed by only one sentence in the ten books available on the larger idea.) and just didn't have enough room to....stretch? So I considered just starting a new blog or enlarging the idea of this one, but didn't want to make it completely general and start writing about my experience as a judge for the 2005 Miss Arkansas USA pageant or something crazy like that(huh? It's true, but you won't read about it here.). In the end, I decided it would be more fun to keep writing about cookbooks when the mood strikes me, but to throw in general ideas about food or cooking that I'm considering. This might be menus, recipes, gadgets, or whatever.

Let's see what happens.

Size Does Matter

The Gourmet Cookbook
Edited by Ruth Reichl
Houghton Mifflin Company: Boston-New York, 2004
$40.00

Weighing in at over six pounds (almost as much as my friend Jan's new baby) and with over one-thousand recipes, the Gourmet Cookbook tries to prove that bigger is better. I have to admit that after spending a week pouring over the myriad and disparate recipes, I'm only to cakes! (Sometimes it is difficult to save the dessert section for last, but I was able to persevere and am enjoying the fruits of my patience.) There are so many delicious, tasty recipes in this well-organized book, you'll want to try every single one.

But, there are a few problems. While the golden yellow of the cover will no-doubt attain iconic proportions in the future, the same yellow for the titles of the recipes on the interior is difficult to read. Yellow print on white paper? It seems like an obvious no-no. The other question I have is the origin of the recipes. While the cover boasts that the book was over sixty years in the making, there is no reference with the recipes as to the original date of their appearance in the magazine. While I admit to being a library geek and to the love a well-written footnote, I can't be the only one missing a more careful annotation.

That aside, the book is a fount of useful general information on food and cooking in addition to the compendium of recipes that will have you in the kitchen for years. Did you know that the Jerusalem Artichoke is neither an artichoke nor from Jerusalem? I did, but its still a fun fact. The index is thorough and the instructions for each recipe very clear. To me, a recipe without a little background or story just isn't appealing, so the chatty bits before each entry make it a delight to read. The winter holidays are coming up and I know that there are lots of cooks out there who would be thrilled to find this incredibly large tome wrapped and ready to go!

Recipe to try:
Katherine Hepburn's Brownies (p. 688)

1 stick (8 tbsp.) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 cup all-purpose flower
1/4 tsp. salt
1 cup (3 1/2 ounces) chopped walnuts (optional)

Put a rack in the middle of over and preheat to 325 degrees. Butter and flour an 8-inch square baking pan, knocking off excel flour.

Melt butter with chocolate in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in sugar, eggs, and vanilla, then beat until well combined. Stir in flour and salt until just combined, then stir in walnuts, if using.

Pour batter into pa. Bake until a wooden pick or skewer inserted in center comes out clean, about 40 minutes.

Cool completely in pan on a rack, then cut into 16 bars. Keep in airtight container for up to 5 days. (Yeah, right!)

Mangez!

A Cookbook of Ideas

Schott's Food and Drink Miscellany
Ben Schott
Bloomsbury: New York and London, 2004
$14.95

Schott's Food and Drink Miscellany, the second book in what promises to be a tantalizing series, is all about our passion for consumption. Ben Schott manages to compile information from disparate sources into an engrossing read that you can pick up, put down, muse, and pick back up. Schott researches, writes and typesets each book himself to present unusual information in what is sure to become a classic format. Lots you didn't know you needed to know. Mangez!

A shot of Schott:
Angels of Horseback are oysters wrapped in streaky bacon, grilled and served on buttered toast. While Devils on Horseback are prunes wrapped in streaky bacon, grilled and served on buttered toast. (Good to know. Neither are appealing to a vegetarian, but still good to know.)

How to make a Monster Egg, p. 12

At a Roman Feast there was an array of slaves, each with their own particular task. Par example:
vocatores, delivered invitations, received and placed the guests
structor, arranged the dishes symmetrically
dapiferi, brought the dishes into the dining room
It was obviously a complex situation and this information would be good to know if you were ever to find yourself at a Roman Feast. I mean, it would do no good to call for the obsonator when you really need the nomenculatores, would it?


Slob in the Kitchen

A Slob in the Kitchen: entertaining advice from a housewife superstar
Karen Duffy
Clarkson Potter/Publisher: New York, 2004.
$23.00 (Or free if you would wake up and use the library which is the best example of socialism at work in this country.)

Do you remember Karen Duffy? She was a VJ on MTV during the early, glory days--when they still showed videos? When it was still about personality? Dark and elfin, Duffy was fantastic on the tube, but took an early retirement from her work for MTV and as an actress because of serious illness. To pass the time, she apparently became a cookbook obsessed person and spent a lot of time in the kitchen, the result of which is her new book: Slob in the Kitchen-Entertaining Advice and Recipes from a Housewife Superstar.

Duffy's book is filled with unbelievably salient advice, pithy introductions to all of the recipes and lots of great food quotes from famous chefs, authors and others. Some of the best advice is in a column called "Slob Smart" about half-way through the book. Duffy says "Don't wear long, loose-flowing garments or scarves when cooking; save your Stevie Nicks wardrobe for your host duties." Very good advice that many people probably have never considered. This is THE entertaining book for anyone who is scared of the kitchen. It really is a 21st century approach to having fun with food and friends, without the mess and stress.

The major omission in the book is that of vegetable based foods. Duffy herself admits to having served plastic toy vegetables at a dinner, and she does try to give a few recipes. However, most of these are not of interest and makes her obvious dislike of veggies tangible. Otherwise, the book is an engrossing read with brilliant tips on entertaining, cooking and general kitchen chore. Mangez!

The recipe you should try:
Ugly Cheese Krispie biscuits (p. 12)

These sound like they would be perfect for a cocktail party or even as a side for a light lunch. They've got me thinking of other interpretations that might be good. Rice Krispies are showing up everywhere--someone sent my mother some lemon cookies that had RK in them and they were delicious, with a mysterious crispy texture.

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
2 cups grated Cheddar cheese
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
Cayenne pepper to taste
Salt to taste
3 cups crisp rice cereal (such as Rice Krispies)

Preheat the oven to 350.
In a mixing bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer and wooden spoon until fluffy. Add the cheese, flour, cayenne pepper, salt and cereal and mix well.
Drop the dough by the teaspoonful onto an ungreased baking sheet and then flatten the dough with the tines of a fork. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the biscuits are set but not browned. Cool on a wire rack and serve. Makes 25 to 30 biscuits.

Cookbook King

It's about obsession...

When did it start? I'm really not sure, perhaps it was those first few cookbooks that my grandmother gave me? Or maybe it is an inherent genetic obessions--my other grandmother has always been obsessed with cookbooks and perhaps she passed it on to me.

Regardless, I love them and devour them like novels. I probably read two to three cookbooks a week that I check out from the library. I copy the recipes I like from each and organize them into various categories in large three-ring binders. I also have a large collection of vintage cookbooks that I purchased (and continue to purchase, can you have too many cookbooks?) from used bookstores, the library bookstore and other sources. What do you do with so many cookbooks? You can't possibly use them all? Cook from them all? Perhaps not, but I like the narrative. I like the voice of the authors. I may only find a single recipe in each that inspires me or that I make, but the entire book could create a paradigm shift in my kitchen like none before. Who knows?

This is a place of reflection. A place to think about these books that I obsess over: the old and the new. Are there other cookbook obsessed people out there? I think there are...

CookbookKing